Cool.. so you are not revving up the engine when you start it for the first time in a day?? What I do everyday religiously before starting up the bike is..

- keep the ignition off.. depress the clutch fully.. kick the kick lever couple of times.. this will help the engine oil in sump spreading in engine

- then switch on ignition.. start the bike and give some throttle.. so that it goes to 6k-7k and then leave it for a while till it comes back to idle rpm.. and then again give throttle couple of times till it goes it 4k-5k rpm..
then wait until it settles down to idle rpm.. and then wait for 30 secs or so.

If your bike is still giving you trouble..then it should be problem with fuel-air mixture.

I'm saying this repeatedly coz, I was facing the same problem..and when I started following this it disappeared. If it doesn't work for you then get the svc guys to adjust that screw to make fuel-air mixture rich from lean. I'm sure it's nothing to do with idle rpm.. as recommended idle rpm is 1100 for P135LS.. on my bike it's set btn 900-1000...

it can range from 70bucks to 150 bucks back here in mumbai...

1.very effective,intelligent and smart way of starting up....you really take care of your engine's wear and tear man...good you brought it up here...and shared with all these guys...

2.4-5k rpm is fine at the start...no need to go higher...and for the p135LS the auto-choke thing does it automatically....guys must have noticed this...

you are absolutely right about the fuel-air mixture thing sir ! but guys dont fiddle with that setting on your own as long as you have adequate information about it...else let the svc guys handle that...they are pro at it..

Thanks buddy.. you are absolutely right .. autochoke does it on it's own, but with lean fuel-air mixture it may not be enough to warm up the engine. Initially I used to wonder why the rpm is going higher on it's own without throttle , later I realised it's due to autochoke!!

something that worried almost every p135LS owner at the start

@ Lightsportz

After reading all your comments in the thread, I guess that your bike air-fuel mixture is too lean!

The service centre people might have set the air-fuel mixture too lean to make sure that your bike get a better milage!

I think you can locate the air-fuel screw in the carburator, it is the gold color screw. Rotate it anti-clockwise for about a half of a circle! Then ride the bike for a few Kms, and check. If it is still stalling, then rotate the screw a little more(about a quater of a circle to anti-clockwise) This should solve the problem! Otherwise, you have to take it to the service.

Yeah, I go to a small service in Battaramulla. Service is a small place but the owner is truly an engineer!

I guess you go to Shani International for service, don't you? There is a person called Mohan, a fair tall guy, tell your problem to him. He seems to understand issues than others.

Did you change your engine oil? They must have put Caltex 20W40 for sure. Change it ASAP. Get Mobil 20W50 Super 4T.

Yes you are right.It's Shani. Thanx and I'll change the engine oil as well.

Thanx for ur advice friends. I'll let you know the results!

Well, this is a good way to start your bike for the first time in the day! But I cannot relate it to engine stalling even after a ride of 6-7kms like what happens to LightsportZ here.

Depressing the clutch and kicking the kick starter will help in spreading oil through the engine, but oil won't stay with the engine components and most of the oil will come back down to the sump because of the gravity! And the force from kicking is not enough to take oil to the cylinder head as well. Engine needs to be started for the oil to stay with the engine components!

And, giving thottle after starting the engine is not a good idea at all. It is not good for the starter motor because it causes more current flow to the starter in an instant, and it is not good for the engine as well because eventhough you try to lubricate the engine by kicking, the oil will still be in the sump!

THe engine oil (in bikes) is verly slow moving lubricant because it has to go upwards against gravity! So the speed of movement is not as fast as we would think! It is slow, and with the relatively heavy grade of oil we use (20W50), it is even more slow!

And rev the engine up to 3k is acceptable as it will be the sufficient speed to warm up the engine without causing tear and wear in any bike! In P135, the auto choke does that job pretty well. You might notice that even in near zero temperatures, the engine RPM won't increase beyond 3-3.5k by the auto choke. That is also an indication that we should not give throttle immediately after starting!

By giving throttle, we give more fuel for the carb together with more current for the starter motor and also to the electrical system! But Choke only gives the extra fuel just to warm up the engine so no harm!

So we just have to push the starter button and wait for the auto choke to work and wait another 30second and start riding. But till first 3-5kms, we should try to keep the bike under 3.5-4k RPM just to make sure all the components including tyres, axels, chain, cabels and the engine inner components including oil to warm up to the optimum temperature. Properly tuned carb will start the engine at the first push of the starter button anytime of the day! I think your bike is tuned properly that is why you able to keep the idle below 1k so does mine

And, this starting thing is not related to the engine stalling even after the engine heat up like what happens to LightsportZ here! I guess it is because of the lean air-fuel mixture! In his first post, he mentioned that his bike felt tired when rev hard! That is also an indication for the lean mixture! Because of the lean mixture, I guess his bike couldn't keep the engine alive even after riding for a few Kms.

Well, this is what I think according to my knowledge and experience! Don't loose your temper or anything.... What you do is a "Precaution" and it is a good practice of you exept giving thottle suddenly after starting! let the auto choke to do it and you just wait!

@ Dan GP
Thanx a lot for sharing your knowledge with us.

Thanks bro. I was misguided. Thanks to you and others that I know the correct braking

Exactly, I was facing the same problem.If you noticed, I posted the same problem some time back in this thread.

Exactly, I solved the problem by air-fuel mixture screw.



Actually, in my bike, it was set to leanest. I turn of 1/4 to the richer solved the problem for good.

Check the mixture. This is set to leanest to the my lot. SVC must have thought this to give 60kmpl+ mileage. A little richer mixer will do the trick. and even mine is set to 1100rpm at idle.

Hey Dan.. loosing temper in this thread.. no buddy.. that will not happen

the whole idea of using kick lever and spreading oil is to form atleast minimal resistance around components.. it's not like no more oil will be there in sump after using kick lever.. no that's not the case it'll still be there due to gravity.. but atleast you are going to start the engine with some oil on components, which is better.

As far as I know using 50% rpm after ignition is ok, from run-in manuals of old pulsars, not sure if the same applies exactly to P135LS. Still i'm giving it a little more.. I know... I was under the impression that there is no harm.. well I don't give it like a sudden burst though!! ..

Cool!! That's nice to hear! THank you!

Yep, using the kick lever is perfectly fine. It is a good practice as I said. I don't support the idea of giving throttle just after the ignition is due to
- the lubrication of the engine component is less hence more tear and wear
- the load of current is much heavier for the starter motor hence faults might occur with the starter
I've personally seen starter motor problems which were happenned due to nothing but looking deeply those were the results of the suddent bursts just after the ignition! I saw some cases with TVS Apache RTR starter motor gives problems due to this.

Well that is not a major issue at all, you know! The most important thing in starting the bike and also the perfomance is the A-F ratio as we all know, don't we?

@ LightsportZ,
How are the thinghs with your bike? Did you try the A-F thingy out?

@ Dan

Yeah I did ,actually a mechanic did it for me. Now the problem is almost solved. But I think it is needed to change the engine oil as well. Right now I can't.Can you tell me where to buy mobil lubes.most of the places I searched in had Caltex or something else?
Thanx....

Yes buddy.., i'll keep those points in mind!

Good to see that Lightsportz.. has got his problem solved now. Enjoy the ride mate.

Well, what are the other brands that you can find in 20W50? Well, for mobil, it is redily available, hmm.. if you can go to Rajagiriya, there is a shop caller, Neo motors, in Rajagiriya road, they have Mobil 20W50!