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How would better lubrication hinder getting the right clearances?! I had the same question of why people have been advising using mineral oil and was about to raise that question .. jigsaw beat me to it. If what you say is true then why is fully synthetic oil recommended for high performance bikes where getting the right clearances is more important.Originally posted by Puneet1 View PostMost motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.
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some amount of wear and tear is required so the piston and bore has required clearence . without it it will cause glazing .Originally posted by rags View PostHow would better lubrication hinder getting the right clearances?! I had the same question of why people have been advising using mineral oil and was about to raise that question .. jigsaw beat me to it. If what you say is true then why is fully synthetic oil recommended for high performance bikes where getting the right clearances is more important.
very few high performance cars/bikes come with synthetic from factory . rest come with mineral oil and they recommend to change to synthetic oil after 3-4k kms .
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Hmmm, its still not totally clear to me but I think I get he idea. I asked the question because my RS125 had come with Agip 2T fully synthetic engine oil and fully synthetic gear box oil in it and I had always used fully synthetic oils in it. There was also no mention of using mineral oil first and then changing to synthetic oil.Originally posted by Puneet1 View Postsome amount of wear and tear is required so the piston and bore has required clearence . without it it will cause glazing .
very few high performance cars/bikes come with synthetic from factory . rest come with mineral oil and they recommend to change to synthetic oil after 3-4k kms .Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.
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After this TVS debacle i doub't i would go for any of the alternate brands. MRF is a tried and tested brand, and while i dont want to sound like an mrf fanboy, i think they make the best indian tyres. Hence the desire for the zapper s.Originally posted by Aparajith View PostI still say, is all this hassle worth for the sake of changing to a tire? Get yourself the Ceat Secura Sport 100/90-18 tubeless.
Y.Originally posted by rennycornelius View PostSir, whats the model num of ZMR's rear?(ZAPPER Y or Q or FS?)
And FS is front only.
figured you would have done it on the main stand. btw, what setting is the preload on?Originally posted by rags View PostYou probably know this already but I'll just reiterate it, to compare the two shocks you also need to put the bike on centre stand and have the rear wheel in the rear so that its loaded similar to mine when I took the measurements. The service manual just mentions a different spring rating and there is no mention of difference in lengths, so the may not be different. You may just have to change the setting on the shocks.
It makes sense to first try with just the wheel, if you try to change everything at the same time then there are too many variables you will have to adjust. It would certainly be more quick steering than it is now and should be fun. Do let us know how it feels whenever you get it done.
and yeah, i would ONLY change the wheel. too much bother for the other stuff. even the wheel means having to change the gearing. as apar said it would be a lot easier to find an alternate 18".
!!! you lucky *#%#%#!%&@!Originally posted by rags View Postmy RS125
p.s. anyone manage to get the complete RTR service manuals? not the addendums for the FI and 180 which we already have. The complete manual refered to as 'Apache Service Manual SER.MAN/APACHE 01/Revision 0, August 2006' And there's more: 'SER INF.MAN/APACHE RTR-Revision 1, March 2008' and 'SER INF.MAN/APACHE RTR-Revision 0, June 2007' and 'SER.MAN/APACHE 02 - Revision 0, February 2007' and 'SER INF/APACHE RTR - Revision 2, November 2008'Last edited by julianpaul; 04-08-2010, 11:55 PM.
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already answered by KP and Julianpaul.Originally posted by rennycornelius View PostSir, whats the model num of ZMR's rear?(ZAPPER Y or Q or FS?)
No time for test ride KP. Will have to test it this weekend only. Cost me 1850 incl the valve. Am not sure of model no. but there is a 18" tubeless in ceat with a similar tread. Checked at Ceat store. No stock though! Had it as first option.Originally posted by HydBiker View Postoh! you've got the Zapper Y then. Good. How's the grip level? it is supposed to be a little soft compound. BTW, how much did it cost?
The Vertigo Sport doesn't have a tubeless in 18". Sure of that. But I think at least the Secura Sport has tubeless in 18".Democracy is when 2 wolves and a sheep meet to decide who is for dinner. Liberty is when the sheep has a gun.
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Thanks.Originally posted by julianpaul View PostY.
And FS is front only.
Originally posted by rags View PostI asked the question because my RS125 had come with Agip 2T fully synthetic engine oil and fully synthetic gear box oil in it and I had always used fully synthetic oils in it. There was also no mention of using mineral oil first and then changing to synthetic oil.

Which year's model??The Magician"
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Missing replaced with sluggish throttle response.
Now my FI is behaving in slightly odd manner, once the engine gets warmed up (read hot) the bike starts to behave in a sluggish way between 1500-2500RPM accompanied by a very grunty sound.
That sound, sounds too good but the bike is virtually dead at that 1000RPm band, to get rid of that when sudden throttle input is given the grunty sound is replaced by the normal engine sound (which is less grunty but grunty
) and the bike is normal again.
Anybody experienced the same?The Magician"
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Time to check/clean your bike's spark plug, throttle body and injector!!Originally posted by rennycornelius View PostNow my FI is behaving in slightly odd manner, once the engine gets warmed up (read hot) the bike starts to behave in a sluggish way between 1500-2500RPM accompanied by a very grunty sound.
That sound, sounds too good but the bike is virtually dead at that 1000RPm band, to get rid of that when sudden throttle input is given the grunty sound is replaced by the normal engine sound (which is less grunty but grunty
) and the bike is normal again.
Anybody experienced the same?
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Plug is spankingly clean, i dont think it's the injector cuz then it would have troubled me in the idling and in morning starts.Originally posted by chicane1879 View PostTime to check/clean your bike's spark plug, throttle body and injector!!
Plus it only behaves this way when the engine gets hot till then it's normal.
I tHink the signature missing is replaced by this new sluggish response thing, courtsey the summers.The Magician"
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When i asked the crappy svc recently about cleaning the injector, they said they blow pressurised air through it. that's it. no injector/carb cleaner. just air.
This sluggish perf in hot weather has me worried. What's the avg daytime temp in indore renny? I'll have to ask the tvs engineers about this.
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Originally posted by julianpaul View PostWhen i asked the crappy svc recently about cleaning the injector, they said they blow pressurised air through it. that's it. no injector/carb cleaner. just air.
This sluggish perf in hot weather has me worried. What's the avg daytime temp in indore renny? I'll have to ask the tvs engineers about this.
Cleaning the injector by Air..
It just cannot get cleaned by it, they have to use the cleaner solution, these sc guys are dumbheads, lemme check this issue in INDORE, i'll go and ask them tomorrow.
Indore is touching 41 in afternoons.
Strangly when i went in the eve (7km one way) the bike behaved completely normal.
Julain you heard that grunty noice kya?Last edited by rennycornelius; 04-09-2010, 09:19 PM.The Magician"
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The preload setting is at the second notch from the bottom, got it that way from the showroom and haven't changed it.Originally posted by julianpaul View Postfigured you would have done it on the main stand. btw, what setting is the preload on?
and yeah, i would ONLY change the wheel. too much bother for the other stuff. even the wheel means having to change the gearing. as apar said it would be a lot easier to find an alternate 18".
Was a lucky *#%#%#!%&@!Originally posted by julianpaul View Post!!! you lucky *#%#%#!%&@!
Had the RS for about an year but sold it when I came back to India. Miss it a lot.
2007Originally posted by rennycornelius View PostThanks.

Which year's model??
I'm also looking for these documents. Probably someone with contacts in TVS can get them.Originally posted by julianpaul View Postp.s. anyone manage to get the complete RTR service manuals? not the addendums for the FI and 180 which we already have. The complete manual refered to as 'Apache Service Manual SER.MAN/APACHE 01/Revision 0, August 2006' And there's more: 'SER INF.MAN/APACHE RTR-Revision 1, March 2008' and 'SER INF.MAN/APACHE RTR-Revision 0, June 2007' and 'SER.MAN/APACHE 02 - Revision 0, February 2007' and 'SER INF/APACHE RTR - Revision 2, November 2008'
Have replied to it.Originally posted by kk_RTR View Post@ RAGS, dude you have a PM....
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.
-Unknown
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This is for the information of every Apache owner who is facing heavy vibration problem while riding at high RPMs. As most of us know that all RTRs vibrate around 5.5 to 7 RPM and after that there are very less vibes until you get into the redline.
My Apache had an accident when it was not even 10k kms old and there were no damages at all accept when i was riding it at any RPM above 5 it would vibrate like hell like it will throw me out of the seat. Then i insisted to the service center to check all the nuts and bolts of the bike in front of me. It was a broke Engine fondation bolt which caused it all. Now due to vibes most Apaches tend to loosen the two foundation bolt situated inside the front sprocket cover. Now whenever any body feels more than the characteristic vibes i think first check the foundation bolts. I was annoyed due to those vibes and dont want others to get annoyed.Never upgrade without getting your basics RIGHT.
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Yes mine also vibrate a lot also today one of my friend find that white smoke was coming out from silencer pipe when I was riding around 100- 107km he was also riding his new pulsar 180. Guy can you tell me that is the top speed of apache 160fi as one day I achive 115 km and today I achive 111km is it any problem or my riding faul.
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