I found two different types, One is transparent (though its not 100% transparent) and the other white. Tried both, and is same functionally. Somehow like the white better though. I used the transparent one for the fairing so it will be less visible.
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Oh! I'm currently in office..sshhhh. I don't remember the name but can post it later in the evening when I get home. Anyway, they are available in most automibile spare part shop. Just ask for gasket sealant. It comes in a tube like toothpaste or just like any other glue. You get them in different sizes.Originally posted by imjoshee View Post
I found two different types, One is transparent (though its not 100% transparent) and the other white. Tried both, and is same functionally. Somehow like the white better though. I used the transparent one for the fairing so it will be less visible.
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Hmm I'll ask my mechanic about the chemical wash..Originally posted by nirvan View PostThere's a treatment for rusted tanks that will remove the rust from inside and bring the lustre back. I'm not sure what it is called, but it is some sort of chemical wash that the knowledgeable mech can perform. It was done years ago on a friend's RX tank.
The downside to this is the metal on your tank will become thinner in critical places, leading to a leak eventually. Having said that, the wash is your only viable option. Unless you can claim insurance.
Until you get this done, remove the tank, drain all the petrol (and water) and coat the insides with a thin layer of oil to stop/slow the rot.
And coming to insurance, can I actually claim?? I mean there's no external damage. How do I show it as an accident?
Motorsports - Because in football, basketball, golf and cricket, you only need one ball! ;)
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Originally posted by kaynmantis View PostOh! I'm currently in office..sshhhh. I don't remember the name but can post it later in the evening when I get home. Anyway, they are available in most automibile spare part shop. Just ask for gasket sealant. It comes in a tube like toothpaste or just like any other glue. You get them in different sizes.
I found two different types, One is transparent (though its not 100% transparent) and the other white. Tried both, and is same functionally. Somehow like the white better though. I used the transparent one for the fairing so it will be less visible.
Interesting! Once you are home, please share the name plij!!
There are N numbers of sealents available!
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@ experienced ZMA owners.
My bike has done 8K km. Going to 6th a final free servicing next week. Anything in particular that I should change/inspect?A professional candid photographer - 17000+ followers. Be in touch
https://www.facebook.com/Jonak.Photo
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No need to change anything. Check for clutch cable and throttle cables. If they are very good no need to change them. Check spark plug too, in general it will be good, and if need be you can change that. At 10k you can change spark plug and air filter too around 10-12k depending on how frequently you ride in too much dust.Originally posted by Jonak View Post@ experienced ZMA owners.
My bike has done 8K km. Going to 6th a final free servicing next week. Anything in particular that I should change/inspect?HH Karizma (Current) || CBF Stunner PGM-FI || Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler
Honda Aviator || Kinetic Flyte || Kinetic Blaze || HH Splendor
Two ZMAs, 9 Days in Western Ghats
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Oil will help prevent further rusting, but it will also lead to carbon build up everywhere in the engine and exhaust.Originally posted by suhasn46 View PostGuys I need some advise. My '05 zma used to gasp for fuel at higher rpm's. I used to get a jerk when shifting gears above 6k rpm. After getting it checked, I was horrified to see that the tank insides were completely rusted. This clogged the carb and hence the issue. Anyway got the rust removed and now it feels better, though a bit sluggish. If you're wondering how this happened, it's because the bike had done 2.5k kms with it's first owner in 4 years. It was stand still for around 3 years until I bought it in 2009.
Now, the mechanic suggested adding 50ml of engine oil in the tank and fill it up to the brim with petrol. He says this will prevent/reduce further rust formation. I am worried about piston, piston rings and other engine components. Can I go ahead with this suggestion? Will it actually reduce rust formation? Do I have any option other than changing the tank which probably costs a whopping 4k? Please suggest. Regards.
And you think the oil will remain there after you put the petrol back in?Originally posted by nirvan View Post
Until you get this done, remove the tank, drain all the petrol (and water) and coat the insides with a thin layer of oil to stop/slow the rot.
You should be able to get it in hardware shops too. IIRC Pidilite makes them too... saw that at a hardware shop nearby.Originally posted by imjoshee View PostCan you please help us with the name of the glue if you dont mind & where can I find one in South Mumbai.
Thanks in Advance.
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My advice to you would be the same as Ravi. Change the tank, then you wouldn't have to worry about rust formation, carbon formation (if you put engine oil), and many other complexities that may arise due to the same tank.Originally posted by suhasn46 View PostGuys I need some advise. My '05 zma used to gasp for fuel at higher rpm's. I used to get a jerk when shifting gears above 6k rpm. After getting it checked, I was horrified to see that the tank insides were completely rusted. This clogged the carb and hence the issue. Anyway got the rust removed and now it feels better, though a bit sluggish. If you're wondering how this happened, it's because the bike had done 2.5k kms with it's first owner in 4 years. It was stand still for around 3 years until I bought it in 2009.
Now, the mechanic suggested adding 50ml of engine oil in the tank and fill it up to the brim with petrol. He says this will prevent/reduce further rust formation. I am worried about piston, piston rings and other engine components. Can I go ahead with this suggestion? Will it actually reduce rust formation? Do I have any option other than changing the tank which probably costs a whopping 4k? Please suggest. Regards.DoN\'t LivE tO DiE, dIe tO LiVe
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Since you said "plij!!"Originally posted by yashdiep View PostInteresting! Once you are home, please share the name plij!!
There are N numbers of sealents available!

. Here is a pic of what I am using. The "ThreeBond" is imported and seems to be better but it is white, so I used Anabond as it is less visible. Got both in the same automobile spare parts shop.
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sprocketting zma!
v hav to try very hard n take lo of efforts to touch the top speed of stock zma. it easily reaches red line in 5th gear, so why should not zma guys go for sprocketting. i hav increased 1-T in front from 13-T to 14-T. bike runs amazing in initial also. there is hardly any difference in reaction time.
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check rpm with stock sprockets
ride ur zma with stock sprockets in 5th gear at 4000rpm's, ur speed is around 65 kmph. after i increased 1-t at front and decrease 2-t at rear my speed was 75 kmph at 4000 rpm's in 5th gear.
zma with stock sprockets goes 65 kmph at 4000 rpm's, that means 130 kmph at 8000 rpm's. but my bike goes 75 kmph at 4000 rpm's, that means it goes 150 kmph at 8000 rpm's
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Danks buddy!!Originally posted by kaynmantis View PostSince you said "plij!!"
. Here is a pic of what I am using. The "ThreeBond" is imported and seems to be better but it is white, so I used Anabond as it is less visible. Got both in the same automobile spare parts shop.
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Thanks Ravi.Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View PostNo need to change anything. Check for clutch cable and throttle cables. If they are very good no need to change them. Check spark plug too, in general it will be good, and if need be you can change that. At 10k you can change spark plug and air filter too around 10-12k depending on how frequently you ride in too much dust.A professional candid photographer - 17000+ followers. Be in touch
https://www.facebook.com/Jonak.Photo
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