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Sorry for the late reply bro... yes ypu get it at indian oil petrol bunks..

Buddy, with all due respects, this is the worst advice anyone could give. Never check wiring like this even if its your last resort.

Thank you Ravi for your assistance, I really appreciate it.

Thank you, PSR. The readings were in the ballpark. With the HL on, it would drop to around 13.4V at around 3k rpm. With the HL off, it would be around 13.7-13.8V. At idling with the lights off, it would be around 14-14.2v.

Checked the wiring to the best of my ability. Cleaned all contacts, made sure the RR is earthing properly. Now everything seems to be working well. lets see how long this lasts!

Karizmas typically develop loose contact in the connector on top of the Starter relay...if you follow the RED wire from the RR you will notice that it goes to a connector on top of the Starter Relay....you will also note a thicker RED wire by it's side (connects to Ignition switch). Over time this connector and the male pins underneath get corroded/dirty/deposits, which makes proper contact difficult..the way to solve is to take out the connector and spray WD40 or Zorrick into the connector underside, and also spray the same on the connectors on top of starter relay ...
Insert Ignition key and switch it on ...do not start).
Open seat and the Fuse box underneath.
With a multimeter, check the voltage on the 3 horizontal fuses . It should be same voltage as the battery. If you find the fuse voltage to be less, then you have the connector loose contact....

I tried in my city (atleast 4-5 bunks) but in vain. Is there a way you can source?

Came back from a Leh+Spiti+Zanskar+Badrinath ride few days back covering 8200kms in 33 Days. Had to climb Badrinath with a completely broken Chassis, which was caused by bad roads and the tail rack which was not suitable for the terrain. The first temporary fix was done by BRO who were fixing up a bridge near Sankoo, Apparently the Electric Arc welding could not hold the damage made. But that didn't Hold up properly as I wasn't showing any mercy to the bike( Could have taken it lightly. After crossing Joshimath, were the bad stretches start, the rear tail section started shaking a lot. when I had a Closer look, got to see that the Arc welding had given way. gathered some strength and tied the broken Chassis with a Bungee and rode up and Came down close to Pipalkoti where there were BRO guys were working on a bridge(Again) So removed all the Plastic Parts and electricals around the area and was lucky to find Gas welding. Lesson learnt the hard way round Anybody else planning to use the rack on Off Road, be a tad careful. This time it was done good, rode all the way till Bangalore. Need to get the Chassis Changed now, eventhough the weld is pretty strong, I would not like to take chances. Except for my carelessness on this, the ZMA took Everything in its Stride. Would like to thank the BRO guys again for their helpfulness without whom I could still be somewhere there in the mountains so far.

BTW, Had a Ceat Secura 2.75-18 and Vertigo Sport 120/80-18 combination, which worked like a charm throughout the Trip, except on wet Tramac


Few Pics of the Damage

[ATTACH=CONFIG]159113[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]159114[/ATTACH]



[ATTACH=CONFIG]159116[/ATTACH]

Wow, on your knowledge on electrical troubleshooting .. guess it comes from getting your hands dirty.
Electrical issues in fact need more skill to diagnose than engine related issues. The biggest electrical mod i ve done so far is getting my rx100 from 6v to 12v and i left the job to my mechanic who did a wonderful job (considering that he has done these a million times)
Maybe i should get a multimeter out and start documenting all the voltages/currents at various points on bikes. Does the manual of the zma provide any baseline figures for these ?

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Just for the sake of asking i asked at an IOC bunk, and they looked at me like 'wtf is it' . Most bunks within city limits stock on only engine,gear oil and coolants
Maybe you could try at oil dealers or places that cater to heavy vehicles like trucks/jcb's etc..

[MENTION=6829]James[/MENTION], what's the other bike in the background (prev page)?

guys today i faced a wierd issue. when i started the bike in the morning the netural light was glowing, even after engaging the gears neutral light was glowing. myself did a electrical check up and found everything fine.

the light glows up in all gears and when shifted to neutral glows brightly. did a 100km trip with this issue. no problems in bike starting, accelerration. pls help me

thank you psr sir. i will check out the things myself as i have the tools as i don't beleive in mechanics any more. if i',m not able to fix it, then i may go to a mechanic

my bro works in marketing and he needs the bike and the bike is in usage for the next 2 days. is it safe to drive with this issue?

Tried fixing the neutral as the bike came home. took only 3 mins to fix the issue. located the nuts on the basis of pics from PSR sir post. opened the cover and found a green wire touching the body . understood it's getting earthed. just adjusted it's postion and stuck a tape to it. voila issue is gone. tried installing osram night breaker 55/60w and found no problems above 4k rpm. but at lower rpms found the light getting dimmed and also horn gets weak and indicators do not glow well. guess my battery is about to die. changed to 35/35 and found no problems. will try with a 9ah battery tommorow.

THank you PSR sir for the explanation with the picture