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Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

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  • Re: Karizma/Karizma R


    [ATTACH=CONFIG]151635[/ATTACH]
    Motul fork oil pictured here is 20W grade and the label says this oils is 'heavy'. Any idea about what grade the other fork oils available are?

    Comment


    • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

      Originally posted by nirvan View Post
      Motul fork oil pictured here is 20W grade and the label says this oils is 'heavy'. Any idea about what grade the other fork oils available are?
      5w 10w 15w .. though very few manufacturers specify the grade on the bottle (at least here in india.. its just fork oil from the likes of veedol,gulf,bosh etc..)
      15w or 20w is good enough though

      Comment


      • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

        Originally posted by nirvan View Post
        Motul fork oil pictured here is 20W grade and the label says this oils is 'heavy'. Any idea about what grade the other fork oils available are?
        If you want a little stiffer forks go with this... or else go with servo fork oil or veedol for oil...dont worry contrary ti popular belief the servo fork oil is an excellent product! The veedol wil make them soft and the ride will be plush...but bikes nose will begin to dive a little under hard front braking. the motul will make it stiff and bike will handle very well and will be eager to respond to direction changes...but ride quality will take a hit..the servo usually lies somewhere in between... hope this helps.

        Divyansh....

        Comment


        • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

          Do we get servo fork oil from fuel stations?
          RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011

          2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud

          Comment


          • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

            Thanks for the response guys!

            Back to the electrical issue- The battery isnt charging..lol..
            So its either the RR or the coil.

            The RR does get hot after riding a while which leads me to believe the coil is probably working.
            The bulbs are not blowing at high revs which leads me to believe that either the RR is working and the coil is bust or both have fried themselves! Wah!!

            Does anyone know the approx price of the RR and coil? Also, are there any cheaper options available in the market?
            85 RD350
            98 900rr Fireblade
            01 rx 135 5spd
            05 zma
            06 Baleno
            09 SX4 vvt

            Owned-69'G2, 82'STD350, CI535, 86'RD350, 03ZMA, 07ZMA etc

            Baby sitting: Mivec Turbo aka the garage queen! LOL

            Comment


            • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

              Originally posted by James View Post
              Thanks for the response guys!

              Back to the electrical issue- The battery isnt charging..lol..
              So its either the RR or the coil.

              The RR does get hot after riding a while which leads me to believe the coil is probably working.
              The bulbs are not blowing at high revs which leads me to believe that either the RR is working and the coil is bust or both have fried themselves! Wah!!

              Does anyone know the approx price of the RR and coil? Also, are there any cheaper options available in the market?
              Most probably, one phase of your stator coil is burnt, leading to lesser power output not enough for all the electrical needs. Alternator is around 1700. My guess is your RR unit is working fine. RR unit is around 1800.
              HH Karizma (Current) || CBF Stunner PGM-FI || Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler
              Honda Aviator || Kinetic Flyte || Kinetic Blaze || HH Splendor

              Two ZMAs, 9 Days in Western Ghats

              Comment


              • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

                Originally posted by James View Post
                Thanks for the response guys!

                Back to the electrical issue- The battery isnt charging..lol..
                So its either the RR or the coil.

                The RR does get hot after riding a while which leads me to believe the coil is probably working.
                The bulbs are not blowing at high revs which leads me to believe that either the RR is working and the coil is bust or both have fried themselves! Wah!!

                Does anyone know the approx price of the RR and coil? Also, are there any cheaper options available in the market?
                Hope you have cleaned the contacts of the starter relay. Clean them thoroughly and the dry them. Sometimes corrosion in the contacts reduces the current passage to battery.
                HH Karizma (Current) || CBF Stunner PGM-FI || Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler
                Honda Aviator || Kinetic Flyte || Kinetic Blaze || HH Splendor

                Two ZMAs, 9 Days in Western Ghats

                Comment


                • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

                  Originally posted by ZMA9106 View Post
                  Thanks for the Prompt response.I tried looking for this option but didn't find it gud enough. Looking for a Single Analog Speedometer as It might look gud. Just like it was in Enticer but not the Chrome one.
                  Click image for larger version

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                  I have used the stock one on my bike.

                  Cheers,

                  Karthik


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                  2 > 4
                  \m/

                  1994 Suzuki Shogun (Sold)
                  2003 HH CBZ (Sold)
                  1994 Bullet Std 350 (sold)
                  1994 Rx-100 (Sold)
                  2010 HH Karizma (Sold)
                  2012 KTM Duke 200 (Sold)
                  2015 Unicorn 160

                  Whew!

                  Comment


                  • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

                    Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post
                    Hope you have cleaned the contacts of the starter relay. Clean them thoroughly and the dry them. Sometimes corrosion in the contacts reduces the current passage to battery.
                    Yes, Ravi. I cleaned all the contacts and sprayed electrical contact cleaner as well.
                    I will update you guys once im done testing the coil and rr over the weekend. Thanks for your help man!

                    EDIT: Finally picked up a multimeter and here goes my first attempt at using one!
                    * Resistance of the 3 yellow wires from the stator are 1.6; 1.6 and 1.9 which i believe is good!
                    * Battery voltage is 12.92V cold.
                    * Once started, it jumps to 13.9-14.3V with no electrical load (yay!!)
                    * When i start revving it drastically drops to 10 odd volts and sometimes lower.
                    * When i disconnect the stator coupling with the 3 yellow wires, the bike starts idling higher and doesnt charge even
                    at idling. which is expected. But why does it idle higher?
                    * The ACV readings im getting is constant across all 3 yellow wires when the motor is running. It increases with the
                    increase in revs.

                    I guess ill have to measure it at the RR unit tomorrow. oh god how i hate removing the rear cowl!!!

                    WTF is wrong with this bike?!?!? Help solicited!!
                    Last edited by James; 10-10-2014, 08:46 PM.
                    85 RD350
                    98 900rr Fireblade
                    01 rx 135 5spd
                    05 zma
                    06 Baleno
                    09 SX4 vvt

                    Owned-69'G2, 82'STD350, CI535, 86'RD350, 03ZMA, 07ZMA etc

                    Baby sitting: Mivec Turbo aka the garage queen! LOL

                    Comment


                    • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

                      Y
                      Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post
                      Do we get servo fork oil from fuel stations?
                      Sorry for the late reply bro... yes ypu get it at indian oil petrol bunks...

                      Originally posted by James View Post
                      Yes, Ravi. I cleaned all the contacts and sprayed electrical contact cleaner as well.
                      I will update you guys once im done testing the coil and rr over the weekend. Thanks for your help man!

                      EDIT: Finally picked up a multimeter and here goes my first attempt at using one!
                      * Resistance of the 3 yellow wires from the stator are 1.6; 1.6 and 1.9 which i believe is good!
                      * Battery voltage is 12.92V cold.
                      * Once started, it jumps to 13.9-14.3V with no electrical load (yay!!)
                      * When i start revving it drastically drops to 10 odd volts and sometimes lower.
                      * When i disconnect the stator coupling with the 3 yellow wires, the bike starts idling higher and doesnt charge even
                      at idling. which is expected. But why does it idle higher?
                      * The ACV readings im getting is constant across all 3 yellow wires when the motor is running. It increases with the
                      increase in revs.

                      I guess ill have to measure it at the RR unit tomorrow. oh god how i hate removing the rear cowl!!!

                      WTF is wrong with this bike?!?!? Help solicited!!
                      To check if the rr is charging just start the bike and take the positive terminal from the battery..(the one that clips on to the positive terminal of the battery.... negative can be left on the battery....) and rub it on the frame... if it sparks then the battery is charging.....you may connect it back on the naked battery terminal... otherwise it isn't....sorry for the noobish method...but I didnt have a mulimeter when my rr went....and I didnt know how to check if the rr was charging the battery without unbolting it and without a multimeter....and thats how I checked if it was an rr issue....my rr was fine. Issue was the wires clipped on the rr....one wire had got crushed somehow...and wasnt connected...split the wire and joined it voila! check all electrical joints....sometimes it can be somthing simple....

                      How does it start idling higher? (cdi also has issue?) I have no idea what is wrong with your bike but I am hooked to this thread for answers!

                      Divyansh....
                      Last edited by Divyanshp150; 10-11-2014, 09:42 PM.

                      Comment


                      • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

                        Originally posted by James View Post
                        EDIT: Finally picked up a multimeter and here goes my first attempt at using one!
                        * Resistance of the 3 yellow wires from the stator are 1.6; 1.6 and 1.9 which i believe is good!
                        * Battery voltage is 12.92V cold.
                        * Once started, it jumps to 13.9-14.3V with no electrical load (yay!!)
                        * When i start revving it drastically drops to 10 odd volts and sometimes lower.
                        * When i disconnect the stator coupling with the 3 yellow wires, the bike starts idling higher and doesnt charge even
                        at idling. which is expected. But why does it idle higher?
                        * The ACV readings im getting is constant across all 3 yellow wires when the motor is running. It increases with the
                        increase in revs.

                        I guess ill have to measure it at the RR unit tomorrow. oh god how i hate removing the rear cowl!!!

                        WTF is wrong with this bike?!?!? Help solicited!!
                        This was the message once I sent to @psr sir regarding the power output from alternator.

                        "Three yellow wires from stator, one green wire for ground, and one red wire for output at RR junction. Three yellow wires carried 5.6V AC current each. There is continuity among these but no continuity with ground wire or body"

                        Please check the current output in these three yellow wires from stator. If all three yellow wires (represent three phases of the stator coil) produce around 5.6v, then alternator is fine. If there is any issue with any of these wires, then the culprit could be alternator.

                        NOTE: The measured current is AC. Please check the AC current.

                        EDIT: I missed out that you have checked the ACV of all three yellow wires. If the voltage is constant across all three wires, then it should be fine.
                        Last edited by ravi@17bhp; 10-11-2014, 09:58 PM.
                        HH Karizma (Current) || CBF Stunner PGM-FI || Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler
                        Honda Aviator || Kinetic Flyte || Kinetic Blaze || HH Splendor

                        Two ZMAs, 9 Days in Western Ghats

                        Comment


                        • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

                          The three Yellow wires are from the 3 phase windings ...and carry an A.C. Voltage. To check if it is the battery or RR that is failing, check voltage across battery when engine is idling...it should be 14.2 V DC, and on increasing RPM it will read 13.8~14 V DC. If the voltage shows less on increasing RPM then the Battery is suspect.....
                          A second check can be done ...Disconnect battery, and then Connect a 1,000 Mfd /25 Volts Capacitor across Positive and Negative wires..Now start the engine and take readings...Idle should read 14.3 and higher RPM 14.2~14.8V DC across the Capacitor. ..The capacitor will be available in most Electronic spares selling shop for Rs 20/-...
                          When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                          Comment


                          • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

                            Originally posted by Divyanshp150 View Post
                            To check if the rr is charging just start the bike and take the positive terminal from the battery..(the one that clips on to the positive terminal of the battery.... negative can be left on the battery....) and rub it on the frame... if it sparks then the battery is charging.....you may connect it back on the naked battery terminal... otherwise it isn't....sorry for the noobish method...
                            Buddy, with all due respects, this is the worst advice anyone could give. Never check wiring like this even if its your last resort.

                            Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post
                            EDIT: I missed out that you have checked the ACV of all three yellow wires. If the voltage is constant across all three wires, then it should be fine.
                            Thank you Ravi for your assistance, I really appreciate it.

                            Originally posted by psr View Post
                            The three Yellow wires are from the 3 phase windings ...and carry an A.C. Voltage. To check if it is the battery or RR that is failing, check voltage across battery when engine is idling...it should be 14.2 V DC, and on increasing RPM it will read 13.8~14 V DC. If the voltage shows less on increasing RPM then the Battery is suspect.....
                            Thank you, PSR. The readings were in the ballpark. With the HL on, it would drop to around 13.4V at around 3k rpm. With the HL off, it would be around 13.7-13.8V. At idling with the lights off, it would be around 14-14.2v.

                            Click image for larger version

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                            Checked the wiring to the best of my ability. Cleaned all contacts, made sure the RR is earthing properly. Now everything seems to be working well. lets see how long this lasts!
                            Last edited by James; 10-11-2014, 11:02 PM.
                            85 RD350
                            98 900rr Fireblade
                            01 rx 135 5spd
                            05 zma
                            06 Baleno
                            09 SX4 vvt

                            Owned-69'G2, 82'STD350, CI535, 86'RD350, 03ZMA, 07ZMA etc

                            Baby sitting: Mivec Turbo aka the garage queen! LOL

                            Comment


                            • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

                              At idle, check the voltage at battery positive terminal and the incoming voltage at ignition fuse (under the seat). They should be same, around 14v.
                              HH Karizma (Current) || CBF Stunner PGM-FI || Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler
                              Honda Aviator || Kinetic Flyte || Kinetic Blaze || HH Splendor

                              Two ZMAs, 9 Days in Western Ghats

                              Comment


                              • Re: Karizma/Karizma R

                                Originally posted by James View Post
                                EDIT: Finally picked up a multimeter and here goes my first attempt at using one!
                                * Resistance of the 3 yellow wires from the stator are 1.6; 1.6 and 1.9 which i believe is good!
                                * Battery voltage is 12.92V cold.
                                * Once started, it jumps to 13.9-14.3V with no electrical load (yay!!)
                                * When i start revving it drastically drops to 10 odd volts and sometimes lower.
                                * When i disconnect the stator coupling with the 3 yellow wires, the bike starts idling higher and doesnt charge even
                                at idling. which is expected. But why does it idle higher?
                                * The ACV readings im getting is constant across all 3 yellow wires when the motor is running. It increases with the
                                increase in revs.

                                I guess ill have to measure it at the RR unit tomorrow. oh god how i hate removing the rear cowl!!!

                                WTF is wrong with this bike?!?!? Help solicited!!
                                If you have the wiring diagram, do check for voltage drops at the various grounding points when bike is at idle. (positive of voltmeter on positive of battery, and negative of voltmeter at various ground points including the engine itself)
                                I highly suspect a bad ground or a faulty RR. The easiest way to rule out the RR would be to swap it with a known good unit.. i do not know if that would be easy for you to procure !

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