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PDI FOR RE
Check the bike thoroughly to find any scratches, dent and any part found unpainted.
Check for acid leak from battery, which may spell on the engine cover area.
Check for paint finish under the tank area
Check for continuous tail lamp glow
Check if front forks are aligned properly
PDI
1. Toolkit
2. Fuel Sensor.
3. Electric Start.
4. All lights
5. Petrol Leak from tank
6. Oil leak AND OIL LEVEL
7. Front Fork Scrap.
8. New Filter and Sparkplug
9. Battery Leakage.
10. Dents and Scratches.
11. any play in the swing-arm
12. oval tool box opening difficulty
13. chain cover issue ( an old one, should be rectified by now)
14. chain tension
15. wheel alignment ( not sure how to check that, may be no of teeth on either side?)
16. front speedo cable rubbing against the mudguard
17. rear brake play.
Things 2 check at time of delivery–
1. Toolkit
2. Fuel Sensor.
3. Electric Start.
4. All lights
5. Petrol Leak from tank
6. Oil leak AND OIL LEVEL
7. Front Fork Scrap.
8. New Filter and Sparkplug
9. Battery Leakage.
10. Dents and Scratches.
11. any play in the swing-arm
12. oval tool box opening difficulty
13. chain cover issue ( an old one, should be rectified by now)
14. chain tension
15. wheel alignment ( not sure how to check that, may be no of teeth on either side?)
16. front speedo cable rubbing against the mudguard
17. rear brake play.
Regarding Pre-delivery Inspection,Here goes the list-
1. Toolkit
2. Fuel Sensor.
3. Electric Start.
4. All lights
5. Petrol Leak from tank
6. Oil leak AND OIL LEVEL
7. Front Fork Scrap.
8. New Filter and Sparkplug
9. Battery Leakage.
10. Dents and Scratches.
11. any play in the swing-arm
12. oval tool box opening difficulty(i Still FAce it)
13. front speedo cable rubbing against the mudguard
14. chain tension
15. rear brake paddle play.
PDI
Dont remember all of it but here you go
1. Start with visually inspecting the whole bike- from bodywork to rims tyres- anything hanging, out of place, damaged, dented, rusting at the welding joints or repaired(transit damaged) painted parts like fuel tank, mudguard .
2. Check the front fork sleeves(which covers the forks top length) clearance between the front mudguard. If clearance is not equal between booth the sleeves and the mudguard then it will scuff and damage the paint work on mudguard/sleeves.
3. Check for all the electrical parts .e.g. headlight high/low beam- high beam pass, indicators, horns, brake light switch -front and rear, parking light, EStart. Also check the indication light in the speedo- neutral light, high beam and indicator.
4. Apply the front and rear brake to check out the effectiveness and any odd noise from front or rear brake while braking.
5. Check your tool kit if its complete or not.
6. Take the key and match the serial number on the key with the lock serial no of the rear LHS electrical/storage box. The no will be on the outside where you insert the key into the lock. Also check working of all the locks on the bike with same key.
7. Check the chain slack while sitting on centre stand and then off it. Should not be more then 1.5 inch while on the centre stand.
8. After starting the bike, check for any exhaust leaks at the head where the down pipe is attached and at the exhaust/down pipe joint. Also for any white smoke from the exhaust.
9. Check for any oil leaks from the engine-rocker covers, side covers- rear shock absorbers and front. Don't worry if you see a bit of oil under the RHS engine cover. It will be form the chain.
10. After engine has warmed up for a couple of minutes- the tick tick noise of the auto de-compressor should stop. Check the idling is stable and not erratic(jumping up/down). Starting should be smooth and not take more then one crank to start(not more the 3 seconds to start)
11. Take a ride on the bike and make sure you have a pillion rider as you need to see if you have rubbing issues of the rear tyre with the mudguard. Thats due to the bad alignment of the mudguard and sometimes of the rear tyre also.
12. While test riding, go through all the gears and brakes(F/R). Notice any abnormal noise or any hesitation in the engine response. Do check the exhaust for any white smoke or black while riding.
13. Check for any acid spill from the battery and the drain pipe from the battery is attached. First gen C5 use to come with exide batteries which had no drain pipe but new ones come with exide or FIemm batteries which have the drain pipe. Look for any spill damage on the engine cover under the battery
14. Check the accelerator cable- should not get stuck when turning left or right while on C stand. Check the choke cable for proper engagement and clutch cable is not too tight or too lose.
15. Check booth the springs present on the centre stand and engage the side stand. Should not take much effort to engage both the stands.
16. To check for any pre damage to the chassis front. Turn the handle bar left to right. It should turn equally to both the sides and not more or less at one side to other.
17. Handle should not be tight. To check this, lean the handle to one side wee bit and if it comes down fully then its fine. To check for loose handle, apply the front brake and rock the bike forward and backward. You will feel the play or noise if its too loose. You can also put it on C stand and while holding the handle firmly, ask you friend to grab the front forks and rock it forward /backward. Any play will be felt easily.
18. While on C stand, rotate the front wheel and check the run out of the tyre or at least any abnormal noise. Wheel should rotate freely and also check for front speedo is tight at the speedo hub and the speedo needle is moving smoothly .
19. To check the D.O.B of your bike, open up the LHS electrical box and you will find the green non- pollution sticker with the D.O.B on it. You can cross check the month with the chassis no.
20. By RE rule, your dealer should fill the fuel tank above reserve and the reserve light should go off. But most of the dealers steal the petrol money and give you only .5L(even less) to get you to the nearest petrol station. You can actually demand from him to fill up more then reserve as per company policy or else you should inform RE about it. After you fill her up, if the reserve light is still on then the fuel level indicator is faulty.
20. Accessories -
A) If you intent to ride solo without the rear seat then get the rear LHS guard(stay) changed to single pipe one.
B) Leg guard- as per your choice to what is available at your dealer.
c) Horns- You wont need changing as I feel the twin setup is awesome.
d) Alloys - If you want to kill the looks of a classic but each to its own..
e) RE embossed leather tool kit bag and side bags if you like them.
f) Bike cover- You can get one if you intent to ride your bike quite less. Cant use it when the bike is hot which it stays for hours at a stretch and not water proof. Has minimal dust protection.
G) Upswept exhaust - if you fancy the looks and heavier thump. It's attached to the down pipe and does not come with free flow down pipe anymore so you wont harm the engine during running in period.
H) Indicator shades- I personally dont like them but some do. Just like the one on the front head light.
PDI
Here it goes:
1. Toolkit
2. Fuel Sensor.
3. Electric Start.
4. All lights
5. Petrol Leak from tank
6. Oil leak AND OIL LEVEL
7. Front Fork Scrap.
8. New Filter and Sparkplug
9. Battery Leakage/ WARRANTY CARD
10. Dents and Scratches.
11. any play in the swing-arm
12. oval tool box opening difficulty
13. chain cover issue ( an old one, should be rectified by now)
14. chain tension
15. wheel alignment ( not sure how to check that, may be no of teeth on either side?)
16. front speedo cable rubbing against the mudguard
17. rear brake play.
1. leaking petrol from fuel sensor area, faulty rubber O ring
2. faulty fuel sensor - replaced at 200kms on odo
3. front fork rubbing issues - got it aligned and repainted at ist service
4. black marks on the engine cover (LHS), got it replaced during ist service
5. 3 blown parking lamp (tiger eye) due to loose connection
6. 1 blown indicator lamp.
7. sprag clutch blown - got it replaced during 2nd service
8. oil leak from the transparent oil level indicator window. Got it replaced.
9. badly rusted rear seat, got it touched-up with paint.
10. Full electrical melted and fused, got it replaced under warranty.
11. broken horn clamp.
12. locking issues in the LH side ECU box
13. lock opening issues in the oval tool box
Check for new handle bar, front 90/90-19 tire and rear 120/80-18 tire and new swing arm bush/ end cups
Check the bike thoroughly to find any scratches, dent and any part found unpainted.
Check for acid leak from battery, which may spell on the engine cover area.
Check for paint finish under the tank area
Check for continuous tail lamp glow
Check if front forks are aligned properly
PDI
1. Toolkit
2. Fuel Sensor.
3. Electric Start.
4. All lights
5. Petrol Leak from tank
6. Oil leak AND OIL LEVEL
7. Front Fork Scrap.
8. New Filter and Sparkplug
9. Battery Leakage.
10. Dents and Scratches.
11. any play in the swing-arm
12. oval tool box opening difficulty
13. chain cover issue ( an old one, should be rectified by now)
14. chain tension
15. wheel alignment ( not sure how to check that, may be no of teeth on either side?)
16. front speedo cable rubbing against the mudguard
17. rear brake play.
Things 2 check at time of delivery–
1. Toolkit
2. Fuel Sensor.
3. Electric Start.
4. All lights
5. Petrol Leak from tank
6. Oil leak AND OIL LEVEL
7. Front Fork Scrap.
8. New Filter and Sparkplug
9. Battery Leakage.
10. Dents and Scratches.
11. any play in the swing-arm
12. oval tool box opening difficulty
13. chain cover issue ( an old one, should be rectified by now)
14. chain tension
15. wheel alignment ( not sure how to check that, may be no of teeth on either side?)
16. front speedo cable rubbing against the mudguard
17. rear brake play.
Regarding Pre-delivery Inspection,Here goes the list-
1. Toolkit
2. Fuel Sensor.
3. Electric Start.
4. All lights
5. Petrol Leak from tank
6. Oil leak AND OIL LEVEL
7. Front Fork Scrap.
8. New Filter and Sparkplug
9. Battery Leakage.
10. Dents and Scratches.
11. any play in the swing-arm
12. oval tool box opening difficulty(i Still FAce it)
13. front speedo cable rubbing against the mudguard
14. chain tension
15. rear brake paddle play.
PDI
Dont remember all of it but here you go
1. Start with visually inspecting the whole bike- from bodywork to rims tyres- anything hanging, out of place, damaged, dented, rusting at the welding joints or repaired(transit damaged) painted parts like fuel tank, mudguard .
2. Check the front fork sleeves(which covers the forks top length) clearance between the front mudguard. If clearance is not equal between booth the sleeves and the mudguard then it will scuff and damage the paint work on mudguard/sleeves.
3. Check for all the electrical parts .e.g. headlight high/low beam- high beam pass, indicators, horns, brake light switch -front and rear, parking light, EStart. Also check the indication light in the speedo- neutral light, high beam and indicator.
4. Apply the front and rear brake to check out the effectiveness and any odd noise from front or rear brake while braking.
5. Check your tool kit if its complete or not.
6. Take the key and match the serial number on the key with the lock serial no of the rear LHS electrical/storage box. The no will be on the outside where you insert the key into the lock. Also check working of all the locks on the bike with same key.
7. Check the chain slack while sitting on centre stand and then off it. Should not be more then 1.5 inch while on the centre stand.
8. After starting the bike, check for any exhaust leaks at the head where the down pipe is attached and at the exhaust/down pipe joint. Also for any white smoke from the exhaust.
9. Check for any oil leaks from the engine-rocker covers, side covers- rear shock absorbers and front. Don't worry if you see a bit of oil under the RHS engine cover. It will be form the chain.
10. After engine has warmed up for a couple of minutes- the tick tick noise of the auto de-compressor should stop. Check the idling is stable and not erratic(jumping up/down). Starting should be smooth and not take more then one crank to start(not more the 3 seconds to start)
11. Take a ride on the bike and make sure you have a pillion rider as you need to see if you have rubbing issues of the rear tyre with the mudguard. Thats due to the bad alignment of the mudguard and sometimes of the rear tyre also.
12. While test riding, go through all the gears and brakes(F/R). Notice any abnormal noise or any hesitation in the engine response. Do check the exhaust for any white smoke or black while riding.
13. Check for any acid spill from the battery and the drain pipe from the battery is attached. First gen C5 use to come with exide batteries which had no drain pipe but new ones come with exide or FIemm batteries which have the drain pipe. Look for any spill damage on the engine cover under the battery
14. Check the accelerator cable- should not get stuck when turning left or right while on C stand. Check the choke cable for proper engagement and clutch cable is not too tight or too lose.
15. Check booth the springs present on the centre stand and engage the side stand. Should not take much effort to engage both the stands.
16. To check for any pre damage to the chassis front. Turn the handle bar left to right. It should turn equally to both the sides and not more or less at one side to other.
17. Handle should not be tight. To check this, lean the handle to one side wee bit and if it comes down fully then its fine. To check for loose handle, apply the front brake and rock the bike forward and backward. You will feel the play or noise if its too loose. You can also put it on C stand and while holding the handle firmly, ask you friend to grab the front forks and rock it forward /backward. Any play will be felt easily.
18. While on C stand, rotate the front wheel and check the run out of the tyre or at least any abnormal noise. Wheel should rotate freely and also check for front speedo is tight at the speedo hub and the speedo needle is moving smoothly .
19. To check the D.O.B of your bike, open up the LHS electrical box and you will find the green non- pollution sticker with the D.O.B on it. You can cross check the month with the chassis no.
20. By RE rule, your dealer should fill the fuel tank above reserve and the reserve light should go off. But most of the dealers steal the petrol money and give you only .5L(even less) to get you to the nearest petrol station. You can actually demand from him to fill up more then reserve as per company policy or else you should inform RE about it. After you fill her up, if the reserve light is still on then the fuel level indicator is faulty.
20. Accessories -
A) If you intent to ride solo without the rear seat then get the rear LHS guard(stay) changed to single pipe one.
B) Leg guard- as per your choice to what is available at your dealer.
c) Horns- You wont need changing as I feel the twin setup is awesome.
d) Alloys - If you want to kill the looks of a classic but each to its own..
e) RE embossed leather tool kit bag and side bags if you like them.
f) Bike cover- You can get one if you intent to ride your bike quite less. Cant use it when the bike is hot which it stays for hours at a stretch and not water proof. Has minimal dust protection.
G) Upswept exhaust - if you fancy the looks and heavier thump. It's attached to the down pipe and does not come with free flow down pipe anymore so you wont harm the engine during running in period.
H) Indicator shades- I personally dont like them but some do. Just like the one on the front head light.
PDI
Here it goes:
1. Toolkit
2. Fuel Sensor.
3. Electric Start.
4. All lights
5. Petrol Leak from tank
6. Oil leak AND OIL LEVEL
7. Front Fork Scrap.
8. New Filter and Sparkplug
9. Battery Leakage/ WARRANTY CARD
10. Dents and Scratches.
11. any play in the swing-arm
12. oval tool box opening difficulty
13. chain cover issue ( an old one, should be rectified by now)
14. chain tension
15. wheel alignment ( not sure how to check that, may be no of teeth on either side?)
16. front speedo cable rubbing against the mudguard
17. rear brake play.
1. leaking petrol from fuel sensor area, faulty rubber O ring
2. faulty fuel sensor - replaced at 200kms on odo
3. front fork rubbing issues - got it aligned and repainted at ist service
4. black marks on the engine cover (LHS), got it replaced during ist service
5. 3 blown parking lamp (tiger eye) due to loose connection
6. 1 blown indicator lamp.
7. sprag clutch blown - got it replaced during 2nd service
8. oil leak from the transparent oil level indicator window. Got it replaced.
9. badly rusted rear seat, got it touched-up with paint.
10. Full electrical melted and fused, got it replaced under warranty.
11. broken horn clamp.
12. locking issues in the LH side ECU box
13. lock opening issues in the oval tool box
Check for new handle bar, front 90/90-19 tire and rear 120/80-18 tire and new swing arm bush/ end cups
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