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Pulsar 200 DTS-i
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Self start failing is a very rare case and as far as i know i saw only a handful complain (about two in the past three years i've been posting in this thread) about their self conking off, but rest assured you can demand it to be corrected under your warranty, pistons timing chains are all mechanical parts and should be covered under warranty but it has to conform to the norms set by the companyOriginally posted by rohitmundra View Postthanks for the info man!! I read those pages but still not confirmed about the parts that comes under warranty...does self start comes under warranty?? or pistons?? timing chain??
etc etc..
I want some details of the engine parts that comes under 5 years warrantyI'm too intelligent to the unintended, and too dumb for the obvious.
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You can't go for the 220's/180's because they more than being visibly thicker also sits on a bigger neck than the 200, therefore you cannot put 220's forks onto the 200 unless you make changes in the frame and that will compromise on it's structural rigidity.
EDIT: Also a thicker fork puts a unnecessary load as it increases the bike's sprung weight and AFAIK the 220's/180's thicker fork is not stiffer or anything, so there is nothing to be gained as far as performance is concernedLast edited by EL LOCO DIABLO; 06-07-2009, 10:49 AM.I'm too intelligent to the unintended, and too dumb for the obvious.
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dude, 220's clip-ons and fork set will cost you nearly 9k plus u need to do slight alterations in t-stem and razor assembly. I'm planning it to do soon!Originally posted by CJ View PostHow much will the 220/180
clip-ons and Forks cost ?Whenever there is a Rainbow in the sky, I know it's u mastering the art of Cornering. U will always be remembered brother, R.I.P Arun.
The 5 Speed Restoration
The Z Restoration
/2001 Yamaha Rx 135 5 Speed/ 1999 Yamaha RXZ 135/ 2012 Honda Dio/ ?
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help needed!
hi,
Like to check frm e veteran here. Recently has this weired occurance frm my p200 i e after travel continuous for 30min, when engage to neutral gear my idling rpm will stay above 2.3k rpm. Used to stay around 1.3k rpm region even when i ride for more than 45min. Is there anything defective in my ride?
Curising speed usually 95kph, current total milage 9500km
Appreciate all valuable inputs.
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Originally posted by flyingstar View Posthi,
Like to check frm e veteran here. Recently has this weired occurance frm my p200 i e after travel continuous for 30min, when engage to neutral gear my idling rpm will stay above 2.3k rpm. Used to stay around 1.3k rpm region even when i ride for more than 45min. Is there anything defective in my ride?
Curising speed usually 95kph, current total milage 9500km
Appreciate all valuable inputs.
its not a big problem u got going there . . . the issue here is with ure idling of the bike, so u gotta adjust the idling screw. If u wana do it ureself look at ure carb properly and locate a screw pointing down ward with a spring on its screw lines. slowly rotate that screw with ure fingers to either side to adjsut the idling. . .if u find this to do ureself a lil complicated then go to mech n observe wat he does. . . if this doesnt solve ure idling probs let me know. . .will be happy to help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjWXI8T2HUM
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07' Pulsar 200 DTS-i
99' Suzuki Shaolin
85' Royal Enfield Bullet 350 (Sold)
86' Ind-Suzuki Ax 100 (Sold)
03' HH Splendor
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so u r saying our p200 idling will slowly go out of tune after prolong riding? my daily initial idling is at 1.3k rpm, but after riding for some time (say 20min)when engage neutral gear observed that the idling rpm actually climb up slowly to 1.8k by the time i reach my work place, the rpm stay constant at 2.2kOriginally posted by Nikhil Pereira View Postits not a big problem u got going there . . . the issue here is with ure idling of the bike, so u gotta adjust the idling screw. If u wana do it ureself look at ure carb properly and locate a screw pointing down ward with a spring on its screw lines. slowly rotate that screw with ure fingers to either side to adjsut the idling. . .if u find this to do ureself a lil complicated then go to mech n observe wat he does. . . if this doesnt solve ure idling probs let me know. . .will be happy to help
is this normal for our bike? second qns if we down size our rear tyre to 100 instead of 120, wat's our max speed? is there anythiny we can do overwrite our power-cut(speed limiter) from our cdi
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i have a same problem as motor... a little dent in the silencer ..but no performance degrade. but everytime i see the dent and not at all happy to look at it.. does the silencer comes under warranty?Originally posted by MotorBreath! View PostWell I had an accident 2 months back, since then the Silencer is a bit bent on the inside and makin weird metal-rattlin sound between 3-4k RPM. I showed it to a good mechanic, he said the Silencer needs to be replaced. Now, can i exchange it under warranty?? It hasn't affected the performance but I can't go beyond 120km/hr mark.. Earlier she use to end up on 128-132(on a good day) kmph.
another problem :::: one bolt from the crash guard (right side) is inside the frame.. half inside the hole.. chkd with a mechanic - suggested to remove the broken part using gas cutter or something like that.. but that will color have to take the toll for it.. am not interested to go that way..my baby is just 2 months old... is there any other way to rectify it?
performance wise no prob... only when she roars to move beyond 100 there is a rattling sound...
last one ...hehehehe... a sound come from the front disc (most probably ) while moving at lower speed. after gaining speed around 70-80 the chik chik sound disappeares.. and the sound starts after riding some 100 kms.. anybody faced this problem / service center said this is normal for the disc brakes. is it true?Last edited by bibekjyoti.de; 06-09-2009, 01:53 PM.sigpic MH43 to WB53 - Its done http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/1...ld-friend.html
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It's sort of like a characteristic of all the pulsars, they don't settle under a particular idle under certain riding circumstances which as far as i've asked it varies for each rider and his bike, for example my bike's idle increases to 1.8 to 2k rpm whenever it's ridden in slow moving traffic, or it is started for the first time of the day when the ambient temperature is quite high (late morning, afternoon), or if the riding style is quite irregular. Also if the bike gets a good run between 3-6k rpm for a good 20-40 minutes during the early morning when the temperature is quite cool, and the air is dense, then it settles just under 1.3k rpm (this is specific for my 200). To answer your second question i don't think downsizing your tyre width will affect your top speed by much, there will be a positive speedo error i suppose therefore it'll show a faster speed than the bike is actually running. Finally i didn't know that our bikes had an rev-limiter, AFAIK it only has a warning light when the bike is being over-revved, actually the bike does rev all the way to it's ~11K redlineOriginally posted by flyingstar View Postso u r saying our p200 idling will slowly go out of tune after prolong riding? my daily initial idling is at 1.3k rpm, but after riding for some time (say 20min)when engage neutral gear observed that the idling rpm actually climb up slowly to 1.8k by the time i reach my work place, the rpm stay constant at 2.2k
is this normal for our bike? second qns if we down size our rear tyre to 100 instead of 120, wat's our max speed? is there anythiny we can do overwrite our power-cut(speed limiter) from our cdiI'm too intelligent to the unintended, and too dumb for the obvious.
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Well if you didn't have any tell-tale marks of the damage you might probably pull off that fast one on the SVC guysOriginally posted by bibekjyoti.de View Posti have a same problem as motor... a little dent in the silencer ..but no performance degrade. but everytime i see the dent and not at all happy to look at it.. does the silencer comes under warranty?
Go to any lathe shop ask the guys there to weld a head of a nut or a screw onto your broken bolt, let it cool down and then unscrew the boltOriginally posted by bibekjyoti.de View Postanother problem :::: one bolt from the crash guard (right side) is inside the frame.. half inside the hole.. chkd with a mechanic - suggested to remove the broken part using gas cutter or something like that.. but that will color have to take the toll for it.. am not interested to go that way..my baby is just 2 months old... is there any other way to rectify it?
performance wise no prob... only when she roars to move beyond 100 there is a rattling sound...
Well normally the disc brakes starts making noises when the brake pads have worn out, and the pads rough section has worn out and has become smooth, therefore when the pads are smooth, so during braking the the disc makes noises, sometimes it can also be caused by a bent disc plate, or a improperly positioned disc padsOriginally posted by bibekjyoti.de View Postlast one ...hehehehe... a sound come from the front disc (most probably ) while moving at lower speed. after gaining speed around 70-80 the chik chik sound disappeares.. and the sound starts after riding some 100 kms.. anybody faced this problem / service center said this is normal for the disc brakes. is it true?I'm too intelligent to the unintended, and too dumb for the obvious.
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thks for the above inform on idling....Originally posted by EL LOCO DIABLO View PostIt's sort of like a characteristic of all the pulsars, they don't settle under a particular idle under certain riding circumstances which as far as i've asked it varies for each rider and his bike, for example my bike's idle increases to 1.8 to 2k rpm whenever it's ridden in slow moving traffic, or it is started for the first time of the day when the ambient temperature is quite high (late morning, afternoon), or if the riding style is quite irregular. Also if the bike gets a good run between 3-6k rpm for a good 20-40 minutes during the early morning when the temperature is quite cool, and the air is dense, then it settles just under 1.3k rpm (this is specific for my 200). To answer your second question i don't think downsizing your tyre width will affect your top speed by much, there will be a positive speedo error i suppose therefore it'll show a faster speed than the bike is actually running. Finally i didn't know that our bikes had an rev-limiter, AFAIK it only has a warning light when the bike is being over-revved, actually the bike does rev all the way to it's ~11K redline
p200 does rev beyond the 11k redline? how? what modification needed?
mine can't even go into the red region in any gear less neutral.....
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Originally posted by EL LOCO DIABLO View PostWell if you didn't have any tell-tale marks of the damage you might probably pull off that fast one on the SVC guys
Go to any lathe shop ask the guys there to weld a head of a nut or a screw onto your broken bolt, let it cool down and then unscrew the bolt
Well normally the disc brakes starts making noises when the brake pads have worn out, and the pads rough section has worn out and has become smooth, therefore when the pads are smooth, so during braking the the disc makes noises, sometimes it can also be caused by a bent disc plate, or a improperly positioned disc pads
thanks .......EL LOCO DIABLO for ur suggestions...sigpic MH43 to WB53 - Its done http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/1...ld-friend.html
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guys i just want to know that is their any performance enhancement kits available for the P-200 like daytona is going to launch performance kits for the YZF R15.
and guys im planing to put K&N air filters in my bike so which one is prferred is it RC-1060 or is it R-1100
And of which company i should go for the iridium spark plugs.
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Chain sprocket not yet changed..even after 24KOriginally posted by rohitmundra View Postcompleted 2 years, completed 24000kms
chain sprocket not yet changed
!!
Heard this for the first time...!! Usually its use and throw after just 12k for most of the people?
You use a chain spray or or 90 oil for the chain? What is your usual maintenance routine for the chain sproket ?
Gear Oil? no side effects ?...I mean usually everyone says to use chain sprayOriginally posted by Aryan View PostI, personally use the 'Castrol 90 Grade Gear oil' for the drive chain of my P-200 and it works like a charm. No chain noise, and it runs real smooth.
so that the O Ring rubber seals lasts longer.?
As recommended by Bajaj: Should use it after every 500kms or during rainy season !! when your oil gets washed off. Also, need to get the chain cleaned and tighten after every 1000kms.Originally posted by akshaye11 View Postat what time i should start using it ?????
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