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Let there be Light : Bike Lighting, HID etc
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Obviously man, u need to make it to DC, then u can think of the HID else, ur batt will loose the juice within no time.Originally posted by sanjay548 View PostDear Sajjt,
Mean to say that you have to converted the power supply of your pulsar from AC to Dc to install HID in your bike.
Come to this thread and ask ur queries, one of our friend Shree've started another dedicated DC conversion thread here.
Do it Yourself, what so ever, if Possible
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After Market HID Projector Mod for Pulsar 150
Flasher Enabled Head Light Flash for Just Rs.1/-
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ok.Originally posted by sajjt View PostNot Apache, PIAGIO Ape 3 wheeler Auto. Go to the APE SC and ask for the RR, rest is clear I hope.
U can make ur queries here, so it'll be shared among everyone
Feel free to ask, we r ready to share our infos.
i was a bit busy in office today so cant come online in day time....now i have saved all the info available on this site or any other site. collected the wiring diagrams for pulsar ( as i have lost my owners manual) , the material is 100+ pages, which i m taking printout from office and taking home (my lappie too is down)...will read in the night. and find out a solution.
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Thanks sajit. Iam trying to source a few non DC bike for experimenting. Ofcourse from within my family.Originally posted by sajjt View PostRahul, thats the spirit, I like ur enthusiasm dear
I hope there may be donors to do that 

OT: Btw i remember u had a different ID before. sajanjosepht right? Why did u change it?
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hey all listen to my theory--
1) my pulsar have a 9 Ah battery. HID is 12V 35W, i.e. approx. 3 Amps current. so battery should last 3 hours. now in these three hours it is getting charged also, since bike is running. i think the charging current is 1.5 Amps approx. so in three hours it will have 4.5 Ah strength, that means another 1.5 hours, so total 4.5 hours it should last. this is the ideal case. in practical terms it should last approx. 4 hours. if you are using starter then may be 3 hours back up it should give. wht do u think ?
2) since HID is connected to battery, the magneto coil supplying current to headlight earlier, is now lying idle, so we can use that coil, instead of rewinding the magneto. now HID is 12V 35W DC and earlier headlight was also 12V 35W AC , that means we need exactly the same amount of power as that of earlier bulb, which this coil easily produces. we need to connect this coil to one more RR unit (may be APE or may be same as that already in my bike) and connect the DC output of this RR unit to battery for additional charging.
3) since HID draws 3 Amps current, we need an RR unit which delivers 3 Amps. I have checked in the manual, the current RR of my bike gives approx. 1.5 amps. so now if i use one more RR as that same of my bike. total charging current will be 3 Amps approx. which should sustain the battery quite well.
4) can some one tell me what is the output of APE RR unit.
5) what if we dont use light for some days, and battery gets overcharged. is there a cut-off system provided in APE RR.
6) AFAIK any battery should be charged at a rate not exceeding 10% of its Ah value for safe charging and long life. too fast charging damages teh battery and reduces its life. now my battery is 9 Ah so 10% of 9 is 0.9 A. so the battery should be charged at 0.9 A only. bajaj guys are charging at 1.5 Amps is already pretty high. if i connect one more RR total charging current will be approx. 3.0 to 4.5 Amps which is too too high and i m damn sure no battery can sustain it, and will be ruined in few month.
only solution is that we add a switch to the wiring and use this additional charging only when light is ON, so that battery will actually not take the charging current instead it will be directly diverted to light through battery terminals. this way actually the current for light will come directly from magneto through charging current and at low speeds stability will be provided by battery.
what do you guys have to say?
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Check this thread.Originally posted by sanjay548 View PostDear All,
I want to install HID in my pulsie. Pls help me out. I really dont know much abt wiring & electricals. Can you pls suggest someone in Ahmedabad who can help me out to get it done for my pulsie 150 Digital meter.
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@shreeni i sent you a pm. Please check and respondOriginally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post
thanks
Converting Halogen / HID headlamp setups to FULL LED.
Please fill in this survey so we can help you move to FULL LED Headlamps
https://goo.gl/forms/yziJJjDbaGwiPaPP2
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We have got a dedicated DC conversion thread started by Shreeni to help others who r planning to do this as all infos are scattered here, pls come to that, I've posted a detailed post for u. In future, pls use the respective thread for queriesOriginally posted by princesirohi View Posthey all listen to my theory--
1) my pulsar have a 9 Ah battery. HID is 12V 35W, i.e. approx. 3 Amps current. so battery should last 3 hours. now in these three hours it is getting charged also, since bike is running. i think the charging current is 1.5 Amps approx. so in three hours it will have 4.5 Ah strength, that means another 1.5 hours, so total 4.5 hours it should last. this is the ideal case. in practical terms it should last approx. 4 hours. if you are using starter then may be 3 hours back up it should give. wht do u think ?
2) since HID is connected to battery, the magneto coil supplying current to headlight earlier, is now lying idle, so we can use that coil, instead of rewinding the magneto. now HID is 12V 35W DC and earlier headlight was also 12V 35W AC , that means we need exactly the same amount of power as that of earlier bulb, which this coil easily produces. we need to connect this coil to one more RR unit (may be APE or may be same as that already in my bike) and connect the DC output of this RR unit to battery for additional charging.
3) since HID draws 3 Amps current, we need an RR unit which delivers 3 Amps. I have checked in the manual, the current RR of my bike gives approx. 1.5 amps. so now if i use one more RR as that same of my bike. total charging current will be 3 Amps approx. which should sustain the battery quite well.
4) can some one tell me what is the output of APE RR unit.
5) what if we dont use light for some days, and battery gets overcharged. is there a cut-off system provided in APE RR.
6) AFAIK any battery should be charged at a rate not exceeding 10% of its Ah value for safe charging and long life. too fast charging damages teh battery and reduces its life. now my battery is 9 Ah so 10% of 9 is 0.9 A. so the battery should be charged at 0.9 A only. bajaj guys are charging at 1.5 Amps is already pretty high. if i connect one more RR total charging current will be approx. 3.0 to 4.5 Amps which is too too high and i m damn sure no battery can sustain it, and will be ruined in few month.
only solution is that we add a switch to the wiring and use this additional charging only when light is ON, so that battery will actually not take the charging current instead it will be directly diverted to light through battery terminals. this way actually the current for light will come directly from magneto through charging current and at low speeds stability will be provided by battery.
what do you guys have to say?
Here's the link.
Do it Yourself, what so ever, if Possible
-----------------------------------------
sigpic
After Market HID Projector Mod for Pulsar 150
Flasher Enabled Head Light Flash for Just Rs.1/-
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u cud have replied here itself ....i m not converting entire system to DC. and its related to light ofcourse.Originally posted by sajjt View PostWe have got a dedicated DC conversion thread started by Shreeni to help others who r planning to do this as all infos are scattered here, pls come to that, I've posted a detailed post for u. In future, pls use the respective thread for queries
Here's the link.
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universa...ke-all-dc.html
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hids and reflectors
hi all,, my friend told me that HID spoil the reflectors of bikes because of their high intensity,,
our bike reflectors are made for some limited intensity n beyond that the reflector damages...!!!!
so is it true...?sigpic
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even i have this query, will it spoil my reflector, and another thing will it cause yellowing of glass/plastic in front of light, as i have observed that it gets heated up quite a lot.Originally posted by raman sriharsha View Posthi all,, my friend told me that HID spoil the reflectors of bikes because of their high intensity,,
our bike reflectors are made for some limited intensity n beyond that the reflector damages...!!!!
so is it true...?
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Originally posted by raman sriharsha View Posthi all,, my friend told me that HID spoil the reflectors of bikes because of their high intensity,,
our bike reflectors are made for some limited intensity n beyond that the reflector damages...!!!!
so is it true...?Well I was using Osram NB 55/60w on my Unicorn for over 1 year and still the reflector is intact. Now I am using 35w HID which AFAIK emits less heat compared to 55/60w Osram NB.Originally posted by princesirohi View Posteven i have this query, will it spoil my reflector, and another thing will it cause yellowing of glass/plastic in front of light, as i have observed that it gets heated up quite a lot.
Regarding yellowing of glass, i ve saw that only on after market/local reflectors not on OEM's.
Of-course reflectors can't withstand heat of 90/100w !!!
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I've been following this thread with interest but I've no need for it thanks to the full DC system of my FZOriginally posted by princesirohi View Posteven i have this query, will it spoil my reflector, and another thing will it cause yellowing of glass/plastic in front of light, as i have observed that it gets heated up quite a lot.
The yellowing of headlamp lenses is not due to the heat emitted from the bulbs. It is actually due to the UV radiation that's also emitted. Poor quality bulbs don't use a UV filter on the glass. Using good quality bulbs from Philips, Osram, etc. should not cause this problem. Just ensure you get a genuine article and not a fake!
The reflector is coated with aluminium and is not affected by UV radiation but the plastic substrate onto which the aluminium is coated, can deform when subjected to high temperatures.
For example, my friend's Suzuki Swift has 100/130 W Philips Rallye bulbs and there have not been any problem.
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