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  • Thanks bro!

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    • Originally posted by Kalli12 View Post
      Thanks bro!
      Welcome.

      Comment


      • Guys.. Is it possible to fix ZMR bar end weights on Hunk..?
        MOTORCYCLING IS AS MUCH ART AS IT IS SCIENCE

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Kalli12 View Post
          @Aneesh I changed it previously during the first service @ 600kms and its now 1450 on the odo
          @itssaurabh: What type of oil u changed yesterday is it 20w40?
          yup, changed it to 20W40 castrol 1. its way better now. engine is quite smooth .throttle response is crisp as before
          sigpic
          _______________________________________________
          I Dream, I Dare, I Do !!

          << 100Rabh N3gi!! >>
          My Ride : http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/members/itssaurabh-negi-albums-my-new-sweetheart.html
          My Photography : https://www.facebook.com/seeclickshare

          Comment


          • Handlebar Change!!

            My Bike (CBZ-X 2009 model) requires a new handlebar as the current one has been damaged. I wish to install split handlebar. Need some advice on its price and types..

            Thanks..

            Comment


            • Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Post
              yup, changed it to 20W40 castrol 1. its way better now. engine is quite smooth .throttle response is crisp as before
              How many kms on the odo?

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Kalli12 View Post
                How many kms on the odo?
                was my 3rd oil change @ 900 km
                sigpic
                _______________________________________________
                I Dream, I Dare, I Do !!

                << 100Rabh N3gi!! >>
                My Ride : http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/members/itssaurabh-negi-albums-my-new-sweetheart.html
                My Photography : https://www.facebook.com/seeclickshare

                Comment


                • Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Post
                  was my 3rd oil change @ 900 km
                  so its safe to use 20w40 in the run in peroid?

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Blessrock View Post
                    My Bike (CBZ-X 2009 model) requires a new handlebar as the current one has been damaged. I wish to install split handlebar. Need some advice on its price and types..
                    You mean clipons?

                    Originally posted by Kalli12 View Post
                    so its safe to use 20w40 in the run in peroid?
                    As he is having smooth engine,You can try 20W40 oil.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
                      You mean clipons?



                      As he is having smooth engine,You can try 20W40 oil.
                      ok thanks guys!

                      Comment


                      • There seem to be some confusion on which grade and type of oil to use.....
                        A lower number in base stock is warranted in colder climates,and in engines with low compression ,less heat,and displacement...For instance a 10 W30 will suit a 100cc bike with 8:1 or lower CR in climates with 10 C or below ambient temperature..this thinner grade base stock helps in easier cold cranking,and better circulation at colder temperature.
                        In hotter climates with high CR and cc wherein Higher engine temperatures are reached it is wise to use a higher base stock oil..ie., 20w40 or higher.
                        For instance in our country most places experience ambient of 20 C or more, and for 150cc or more ,with high compression a higher base stock value of 20 is more suitable.
                        In any multigrade oil the lower number is the base stock value of oil during cold climate, and the number after W is the weight of the oil at higher(100C) temperature..ie., the oil will have same Viscosity as the higher mentioned value of oil at 100 C.The wider the range more the additives and lesser the stability at higher temperatures.
                        The oil does a multi job of lubrication by forming a thin layer in between moving parts,cleaning the surfaces and carrying away the deposits, and also carry the heat away from the hot spots.
                        A Mineral oil structure is made of larger particles compared to a Fully synthetic oil. For this reason it is preferable to use mineral during run in time as the different parts are meshing against each other and loosing some metal particles, and GAPS between moving parts will be slightly higher than a set engine...Mineral with larger particle size will not leak and offer better piston ring sealing of compression at this time.
                        Once the engine had set in say after 4,000 or 5,000 Kms Synthetics can be tried...This may seem a long duration..but beware once Synthetic is used,the fine and good slippery nature of Synths will not allow the engine to set in any further,so to be on the safe side a longer set in time is preferred.....Different manufacturer will have different recommendation on the setting in time, BASED ON THE MANUFACTURE TOLERANCE .
                        Synthetics are very good in being more slippery and because it contains smaller particles can get into every nook and corner,and also carry heat away better than minerals...This is why changing to Synth oils will make the bike engine rev smoother without Vibes,and engine heating will also become less.
                        Because Synth oils have smaller particles they can also escape through fine imperfections or Gaps in moving parts...and hence oil leak or oil consumption by engine.
                        A thinner base stock oil of say 10w30 will offer less piston ring sealing than a higher grade say 20w40,and because of this, the blow back will contaminate the thinner oil sooner than the thicker oil....This is one of the reason for the 10w30 in 150cc or higer cc engines becoming dark sooner than 20w40.
                        Sorry for the long post, and thanks to those having the patience to go through it.
                        Just my thought.....
                        Last edited by psr; 08-20-2011, 10:35 PM.
                        When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                        Comment


                        • please advise me about your sitting experience.is it a ordinary bike or like a sport bike like r15.
                          vijay super-1981,vespa1984,herohonda1988,herohondasleek1989,su zuki shaolin1994,herohondacbz2000,suzukiferro2000,honda unicorn2004,kawasaki-bajaj eliminator2005,rtr1802010

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by bhadoriabtp View Post
                            please advise me about your sitting experience.is it a ordinary bike or like a sport bike like r15.
                            actually i didn't sit on the new bike its not that much sports siting posture as r15 mate.

                            after some hours i will get my new baby
                            sigpic

                            Comment


                            • lube oil - reg

                              ref: What is the difference between motor oils 5W30 10W30 20W50 AND SO ON



                              Answer:

                              Let's start with understanding viscosity. Your owner's manual may tell you to use SAE 5W-30 engine oil. What does this mean? SAE stands for the Society of Automotive Engineers. They have created a standard for identifying the viscosity characteristics of engine oil. The 5W-30 part of the symbol is actually just a name. The W part of the name is an indicator of low temperature viscosity properties while the 30 part of the name is an indicator of the high temperature or operating viscosity properties. The numbers are just relative have a viscosity of 5, nor does a 30 weight oil have a viscosity of 30. What the numbers do mean is that the viscosity characteristics of a 5W oil are lower than that of a 10W oil. As well, a 30 weight oil has lower viscosity properties than a 40 weight oil. Its all very confusing, isn't it?
                              The best thing to do is use the appropriate viscosity for your engine and climate as recommended by the manufacturer. In general, newer vehicles will specify lower viscosity oils such as 5W-30 while older vehicles will specify higher viscosity oils such as 20W-50. This is because today's engines are built with tighter bearing clearances to take advantage of the fuel economy benefits of lower viscosity oils.It is not really a good idea to use thicker oil in one of these engines because it will disrupt the oil flow characteristics of the engine and may create excessively high oil pressure.
                              In an older engine that was designed with larger bearing clearances, it is appropriate and recommended to use a thicker oil to maintain proper oil pressure and provide adequate bearing film thickness. This is also true for engines that have a lot of miles on them and the oil pressure is starting to drop off. By using higher viscosity oil, you can boost the oil pressure back to normal levels and increase bearing film strength.


                              This answer is quoted only for the one underlined sentence i.e. lower viscosity oils give better fuel efficiencies (mileage). This is not written by me .(click on ref )the concerned wiki pages will give the same words there.

                              (Now don't pick & quote oil pressure and say bikes are not having oil pumps)

                              This forum is of get help to many people and many people are ready to help also.But it is good if we keep our minds open to receive new knowledge rather than be stubborn and close minded.what we think we know is not the last frontier of knowledge.Science and technology is all about updating knowledge.

                              I write these open words so that nobody gets hurt.
                              Thanks for reading till this.
                              "work for cause n not for applause". "live life 2 express n not 2 impress" ."dont strive to make ur presences noticed, just make ur absence felt".

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by psr View Post
                                There seem to be some confusion on which grade and type of oil to use.....
                                A lower number in base stock is warranted in colder climates,and in engines with low compression ,less heat,and displacement...For instance a 10 W30 will suit a 100cc bike with 8:1 or lower CR in climates with 10 C or below ambient temperature..this thinner grade base stock helps in easier cold cranking,and better circulation at colder temperature.
                                In hotter climates with high CR and cc wherein Higher engine temperatures are reached it is wise to use a higher base stock oil..ie., 20w40 or higher.
                                For instance in our country most places experience ambient of 20 C or more, and for 150cc or more ,with high compression a higher base stock value of 20 is more suitable.
                                In any multigrade oil the lower number is the base stock value of oil during cold climate, and the number after W is the weight of the oil at higher(100C) temperature..ie., the oil will have same Viscosity as the higher mentioned value of oil at 100 C.The wider the range more the additives and lesser the stability at higher temperatures.
                                The oil does a multi job of lubrication by forming a thin layer in between moving parts,cleaning the surfaces and carrying away the deposits, and also carry the heat away from the hot spots.
                                A Mineral oil structure is made of larger particles compared to a Fully synthetic oil. For this reason it is preferable to use mineral during run in time as the different parts are meshing against each other and loosing some metal particles, and GAPS between moving parts will be slightly higher than a set engine...Mineral with larger particle size will not leak and offer better piston ring sealing of compression at this time.
                                Once the engine had set in say after 4,000 or 5,000 Kms Synthetics can be tried...This may seem a long duration..but beware once Synthetic is used,the fine and good slippery nature of Synths will not allow the engine to set in any further,so to be on the safe side a longer set in time is preferred.....Different manufacturer will have different recommendation on the setting in time, BASED ON THE MANUFACTURE TOLERANCE .
                                Synthetics are very good in being more slippery and because it contains smaller particles can get into every nook and corner,and also carry heat away better than minerals...This is why changing to Synth oils will make the bike engine rev smoother without Vibes,and engine heating will also become less.
                                Because Synth oils have smaller particles they can also escape through fine imperfections or Gaps in moving parts...and hence oil leak or oil consumption by engine.
                                A thinner base stock oil of say 10w30 will offer less piston ring sealing than a higher grade say 20w40,and because of this, the blow back will contaminate the thinner oil sooner than the thicker oil....This is one of the reason for the 10w30 in 150cc or higer cc engines becoming dark sooner than 20w40.
                                Sorry for the long post, and thanks to those having the patience to go through it.
                                Just my thought.....
                                Very good and right words at right time.
                                "work for cause n not for applause". "live life 2 express n not 2 impress" ."dont strive to make ur presences noticed, just make ur absence felt".

                                Comment

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