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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
Reset the tappets to 0.6 and 0.10 mm. That mechanic has adjusted too tight which is making the bike loose compression. Regarding the rpm needle fluctuating then open the float bowl and clean the slow jet. Slow jet being dirty will give the same problem of rpm fluctuating.Also i am surprised how they changed the camshaft under warranty on their own. Regarding the sound then do not bother ride some more and then we will see.So adjust the tappets and clean the slow jet, and check the spark plug if shorted change to new.Originally posted by vrm_venkat1 View PostPhoto of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/854067-post963.html-3.88 lac km cont....Ownership review of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/832255-post608.html- slowly updating as and when getting time. HERO HONDA CBZ EXTREME(2011) - 47K KM AND COUNTINGhttp://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post904152-carb tuning guide
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
I have adjusted the tappets, gap was 0.06mm on inlet side and much higher on exhaust side (adjusted to 0.10mm on exhaust). Now, no such irritating noise.Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
Adjust the tappets 0.06 mm (inlet) and 0.10 mm(Exhaust) as the bike is nearing 10,000 kms. Feeler gauge is a must.
Change the fork Oil and use Motul Fork Oil 20W, fill 150ml. Does it bottom out easily ?
Going by the picture of the screw head, I can say that the AFR was tampered.
Follow sibun's guide.
But I noticed that the Rocker arm had some play(1-2mm) along the shaft on which it is mounted. Is it normal?
Now, regarding the front suspension
bike reaches the above marked position very easily and more often when passing over small speed breakers and ride becomes "springing" type.
Which fork oil will be best? 10W or 20W. Which one is used as stock? Please share your experiences.
After tuning AFR following sibun's guide the bike feels much smoother, kindly check the condition of spark plug after tuning. Is it good?
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
Hey fellas...
Hunk comes with dual disc and single disc right..
Which will be a better option.. the drum brake at the rear.. or double discs.. ?
Price difference is not a constrain..
Which brakes are hassle free and easy to maintain and have good braking ability and stability..
The double discs or single disc?
Regards
--
SikhLionz
Ride Hard, Ride Safe!!--
Sikh Lionz
Ride Safe, Ride Hard !!
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
Rear disc brake is not needed for a 150cc bike and moreover its dangerous for panic breakers, according to my Mech the single piston rear calliper causes uneven wear on the disc pads so it wears out quickly.Originally posted by AmanZ View PostHey fellas...
Hunk comes with dual disc and single disc right..
Which will be a better option.. the drum brake at the rear.. or double discs.. ?
Price difference is not a constrain..
Which brakes are hassle free and easy to maintain and have good braking ability and stability..
The double discs or single disc?
Regards
--
SikhLionz
Ride Hard, Ride Safe!!
Sent from my w650 using Tapatalk 4
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
Hi Aman,Originally posted by AmanZ View PostHey fellas...
Hunk comes with dual disc and single disc right..
Which will be a better option.. the drum brake at the rear.. or double discs.. ?
Price difference is not a constrain..
Which brakes are hassle free and easy to maintain and have good braking ability and stability.
I'm having CBZ Xtreme DDS, and in my last post only I have mentioned the maintenance cost of rear disc brakes .
So, as per my experience, rear disc brakes in CBZ/HUNK is worthless.Last edited by nishesh.kumar; 09-27-2013, 05:20 PM.
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
Go for dual disc as braking power of disc can never be matched by Drum brakes. Moreover the rear disc are nissin which is best.Also disc is easy to maintain as at every service just open and blow away the dust and lubricate the slider mechanism for disc to not jam. Thats it. I regret not going for rear disc as that time i was short of money.Originally posted by AmanZ View PostHey fellas... Hunk comes with dual disc and single disc right.. Which will be a better option.. the drum brake at the rear.. or double discs.. ? Price difference is not a constrain.. Which brakes are hassle free and easy to maintain and have good braking ability and stability.. The double discs or single disc?Regards --SikhLionzRide Hard, Ride Safe!!
Yes the side play is normal and nothing to worry. It is there for a purpose.Originally posted by Lokesh027 View PostI have adjusted the tappets, gap was 0.06mm on inlet side and much higher on exhaust side (adjusted to 0.10mm on exhaust). Now, no such irritating noise.But I noticed that the Rocker arm had some play(1-2mm) along the shaft on which it is mounted. Is it normal? Now, regarding the front suspension bike reaches the above marked position very easily and more often when passing over small speed breakers and ride becomes "springing" type.Which fork oil will be best? 10W or 20W. Which one is used as stock? Please share your experiences.After tuning AFR following sibun's guide the bike feels much smoother, kindly check the condition of spark plug after tuning. Is it good?
For front suspension get Motul 20W and fill 160 ml in each fork after fully draining. After filling new oil pump the shock 15-20 times to drive away air bubbles. Then fit the top cone of shock. It is normal for shocks to dive that much as it is designed keeping that much of dive in mind. So nothing to worry. The ride is having springing effect because of shock oil loosing viscosity. That is why i have said to go for 20W oil as it will smoothen the stroke of shock.Tuning is perfect, man you are a genius. You have tuned the bike perfectly.
Man my bike has run 20k km and still is running better than new. So it is a question of maintenance rather than quality.Originally posted by nishesh.kumar View PostFinally, I visited to my mechanic's garage once again yesterday, and discussed all the issues.ODO reading was 29 K, and I had rode about 1000 kms since the cylinder kit replacement.Below are the complete details of the job done.1. First of all, he opened the cylinder head cover and adjusted the tappets (Without using any gauge).He also checked both the rockers for play, but both of them were in good condition. Ignition timing was readjusted as well.2. He opened the right crank-case for clutch inspection. As mentioned in the previous post, I had changed the complete clutch kit @ 21K which had costed a whopping 2200/- . Then he gave me a shock by telling that Friction kit, Clutch Plates and Pressure plates are gone and I was like
. The cost of OEM Friction kit, Clutch Plates and Pressure Plates are Rs. 1334, 126 and 284 respectively which adds up to Rs. 1744. Moreover I had replaced all these parts including clutch centre @ 21 K only. I asked him that how come all the parts went kaput in just over 8000 Kms
, and he answered that everything is in-front of you. He told that the fiber plates and clutch plates have been worn out, and there are scratch marks on the pressure plates as well. The only savior was clutch center which was looking fine. I was just not interested to buy all these parts from SVC again, and there was some financial constraints as well. So, after consulting my mechanic regarding after-market spares I went to Karol Bagh and purchased following parts know that the performance of these after-market spares could not compared with the OEM ones, but if OEM Clutch kit is lasting only 8000 Kms then is there any other alternative??In the meanwhile, the mech had cleaned the Strainer and Centrifugal Filter thoroughly. Every thing was installed and Anabond was applied on the surfaces of the clutch cover as well as mating surface to prevent oil leak. Below are the images of old Fiber Plates, Pressure plate and the packet of New Fiber Kit. If you guys remember I was facing oil leak issue in the rear disc caliper and had ordered the parts through SVC. So, now it was turn of rear disc caliper overhauling. The mech disconnected the caliper assembly and then cleaned it thoroughly with kerosene. After that Piston and Seal Set were replaced. The old piston was damaged on its edge and due to this the disc pads were wearing out unevenly. He re-installed each and every thing and pressure in the rear brake pedal was restored within a few minutes of pumping. Overall, I was most satisfied with the servicing of Disc Caliper, and now the original bite is back. Below is the list of purchased spare parts:1. SEAL SET (OEM) 178.002. PISTON (OEM) 334.003. Rear Disc Pads (MK Brand) 80.00 (Note: OEM Rear Pads costs Rs. 1180
Below are the images of old piston and disc pads for reference.air-Filter was cleaned using compressed air which was just 1000 Kms old, and chain slack was adjusted as well.5. Bike was washed and polished.In just 2 Years and 29 K on ODO, My xtreme's cylinder kit has been replaced once and clutch plates twice. Along with this, Chain-Sprocket Kit has also been replaced once @ 22 K. I have spend more than Rs. 2000 for the maintenance of Rear Disc Brake only till date. There was no question of claiming warranty of any sort, since I have not visited the A.S.C after 4th servicing for reasons which every Hero owner may have experienced. This bike is really burning a big hole in my pocket, and I'm fed up with it's maintenance cost
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Some of my observation:-
1. He adjusted the tappets without gauge, how did he knew the gap without feeler gauge. Since in extreme both the tappets have different settings then how did he set that. Moreover when replacing cylinder kit he has adjusted the timing, then why the need of again adjusting. Timing needs to adjusted only when timing sprocket is removed from chain.That means he has messed up the adjustment first time.
2. Why was the bore changed at 29k on odo. May be bad running-in or irregular engine oil change. Just two to three days ago i was looking into my extreme bore through the spark hole using a powerful pencil beam torch and after 20k bike bore has still the honing mark present. The Honing marks are clearly visible. There are extremes here which have crossed 50-60k mark without any major maintenance.So why was it changed so early just ponder over it and you will get your answer.
3. Moreover the original clutch plates are not priced that high for no reason. And who said clutch wears out at 8k kms. My bike is at 20k and still clutch is as sharp as the day i bought it. Moreover the clutch having scratch marks then let me tell you it will have that mark as it is a friction item and will rub against each other. Moreover from the pictures that you have posted the clutch center easily shows that you are riding the clutch or your clutch has no free play which is not completely dis-engaging the clutch which is making it burnt is so much less running.
4. Rear disc brake, then let me tell you by looking at the piston that with so much rust it denotes that you are not maintaining the caliper assembly neither servicing it. With so much rust the piston will not return back and instead will cause pad wear.Moreover while braking the piston will move in jam manner which will cause the pad to wear out faster.
So regular servicing is important.I am not blaming you, may be you do not know how to service on your own and the mechanics are ruining the bike more. So it is not the fault of bike but regular service of bike will make it less maintenance bike.
If all the members want i can post a detail service list here on what to do in 2000 km service and how to do it on your own.Last edited by sibun; 09-28-2013, 10:35 AM.Photo of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/854067-post963.html-3.88 lac km cont....Ownership review of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/832255-post608.html- slowly updating as and when getting time. HERO HONDA CBZ EXTREME(2011) - 47K KM AND COUNTINGhttp://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post904152-carb tuning guide
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
They removed the scoops, that's badOriginally posted by Ajay.vinod View Post[ATTACH=CONFIG]118680[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]118681[/ATTACH]
Say Hello to the New Xtreme!
The mask is completely new, 3D digital logo like Pulsars
Well, at-least the ugly front indicators are gone
I guess the bike will be probably out on Diwali.. Hope they don't discontinue the current model of Xtreme
Sent from my w650 using Tapatalk 4
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
Hello People,
I have an issue with my bike. Her riding is very uncertain. I am not sure what it is, I constantly feel as if the tires are punctured or something like that. I have checked and the tyre pressure is ok, and the rims do not have any bends in them. I am not sure why the bike feels like it is wobbling. Especially on wet roads. Any suggestions guys??
Thanks.
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
It would be nice if you could tell us -Originally posted by virendrapareek View PostHello People,
I have an issue with my bike. Her riding is very uncertain. I am not sure what it is, I constantly feel as if the tires are punctured or something like that. I have checked and the tyre pressure is ok, and the rims do not have any bends in them. I am not sure why the bike feels like it is wobbling. Especially on wet roads. Any suggestions guys??
Thanks.
how many km's your bike's done
any repair done recently.
Also, check if your steering cone by turning it after parking bike on center stand, do you see any tight spots?
When was the last time your front suspension oil was changed?
Any shake in rear wheel (bearing) ?
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
Hello Buddy,
My bike has done 34436 kilometres, and I don't remember the last time my fork oil was changed, but I do remember that I had broken the oil seal a few months ago and perhaps the oil was changed while repairing that, I am not sure. I have planned to change this in the next service, which is about 600 kilometres away
I checked the steering, and there are no tight spots. The rear wheel seems to be fine, there is no shake.
Could it be the rear tyre is worn out? I have placed a picture here. I haven.t heard of tyres getting worn out in 33k kilometres. Please advise Thank you.
Originally posted by SatSon View PostIt would be nice if you could tell us -
how many km's your bike's done
any repair done recently.
Also, check if your steering cone by turning it after parking bike on center stand, do you see any tight spots?
When was the last time your front suspension oil was changed?
Any shake in rear wheel (bearing) ?
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
Tyres do get worn out before 33k km also, depends on your riding. I'm nor sure if the tyre is causing the wobble but it does look pretty worn out, so change it anyway.Originally posted by virendrapareek View PostHello Buddy,
My bike has done 34436 kilometres, and I don't remember the last time my fork oil was changed, but I do remember that I had broken the oil seal a few months ago and perhaps the oil was changed while repairing that, I am not sure. I have planned to change this in the next service, which is about 600 kilometres away
I checked the steering, and there are no tight spots. The rear wheel seems to be fine, there is no shake.
Could it be the rear tyre is worn out? I have placed a picture here. I haven.t heard of tyres getting worn out in 33k kilometres. Please advise Thank you.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]118706[/ATTACH]
Sent from my w650
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
Thanks for the help buddy. I was considering getting new tyres. I am thinking of getting MRF Zapper Q or MRF tubeless. Any suggestions as to a good tyre that will give me excellent road grip in both wet and dry conditions? I kind of like zapper tyres. Please suggest. Thank you.
Originally posted by sinnerz2000 View PostTyres do get worn out before 33k km also, depends on your riding. I'm nor sure if the tyre is causing the wobble but it does look pretty worn out, so change it anyway.
Sent from my w650
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
If your riding is mostly on tarmac then go for zapper q or zapper vyde, for dual purpose off road and tarmac go for mrf meteor. Michelin m45 is also supposed to be a good tyre recommended by most people on xbhp. And if you're changing front tyre too then mrf zapper fs is the best.Originally posted by virendrapareek View PostThanks for the help buddy. I was considering getting new tyres. I am thinking of getting MRF Zapper Q or MRF tubeless. Any suggestions as to a good tyre that will give me excellent road grip in both wet and dry conditions? I kind of like zapper tyres. Please suggest. Thank you.
Sent from my w650
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