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  • Originally posted by soumen.sam View Post
    When the engine worm up 2.5 k or 3k RPM is not normal. 1k to 1.4k RPM is normal. When the engine completely wormed up ie after ridden 5-10 km, tune the idle screw and set the idle speed exactly 1.4-1.3k rpm. So if the engine is healthy when the engine start at cold then the rpm would be 1k rpm and as the engine will worm up the rpm will goes to 1.4k RPM.
    Yeah You are correct... What if it were to be a tappet problem or valve clearance issue... Don't You think its like inviting more trouble... I would like to have more advice on this issue and XBhp gyangurus through some light on this issue...

    Comment


    • Engine rpm....

      Another problem guys.....
      My bike HH Hunk has clocked 3500km. On last Saturday-16/01/2010, (as I am having holiday), I washed my vehicle at service station and came back home. I applied polish and oiled the chain etc. As I was facing problem with engine rpm drop - as the rpm was dropping day by day since I had my 2nd service done @ 1,800km(I have changed engine oil in between @ 2,300km), I opened the spark plug and surprised to see that it has accumulated lots of carbon on it. Checked the net and found the reason, i.e, reach mixture of fuel and air. I went to the HH Sc and told the service supervisor the condition.
      After having a test ride, the Service supervisor confirmed that the tuning is wrong as at high rpm, i.e, 7000 - it is emitting black smoke. The mechanic was trying to fix this and he decided to clean the carburettor. I think, he also detected the problem of rem drop.
      But today, I got the same problem. Just like everyday, I started my bike and the rpm was struggling. The rpm was below 1000mark so I pushed the throttle little bit and made at 1200. After the engine warm up, it was touching 1100/1200 rpm mark. Then I had a ride of 20min and after I found that the rpm was touching 1400mark. Then I gave the engine a rest for approx 5 min and once again pushed the starter. Immediately it touched 1100rpm and then i can see the rise in rpm meter from 1100 to 14000 and finally it settled in 1400 mark.
      i am facing the problem for the first time. I thought it can be due to abnormal cold weather (8 to 9 deg here for last two days).
      Please give me your valuable feedback. On that basis I'll mail the thing to HH regional office.
      Move on.........
      bappaditya @ +919804822971.

      Comment


      • But today, I got the same problem. Just like everyday, I started my bike and the rpm was struggling. The rpm was below 1000mark so I pushed the throttle little bit and made at 1200. After the engine warm up, it was touching 1100/1200 rpm mark. Then I had a ride of 20min and after I found that the rpm was touching 1400mark. Then I gave the engine a rest for approx 5 min and once again pushed the starter. Immediately it touched 1100rpm and then i can see the rise in rpm meter from 1100 to 14000 and finally it settled in 1400 mark.
        i am facing the problem for the first time. I thought it can be due to abnormal cold weather (8 to 9 deg here for last two days).

        Brother, Sounds to me normal in winter climate, 1400 is correct idle RPM, it's normal if the rpm climbs from 1100 to 1400 over few minutes esp. in cold whether. Use choke for first minute of starting procedure - always. In case of clarity talk to the supervisor who 'tuned' the RPM.

        Comment


        • My Achiever continues to impress !!

          Brief report of my Achiever @4500 kms
          -------------------------------------

          Engine : Damn smooth, easily beats GSR/Uni in NVH levels. Silent and feels totally stress free across all operating speed range. Engine oil is ~4000kms old (changed at 600kms -Ist svc HH Idemitsu). This season I guess there's no winter in B'lore Morning temp. is 20+Deg C !!
          Mileage : ROCKS ! Avg. city 52-53 kmpl, worst 47kmpl (B'lore metro routes, 'inching' traffic) best 55kmpl (Indranagar-Peenya route relatively low traffic). No highway ride yet, so no figures.
          > Oiling chain every 800/1000kms (free at HH svc center), I tip the mechanic with Rs.10/- though.
          > Engine power is consistent w.r.t speed/RPM always ! 60kmph @ 4700 rpm everytime on flat roads.
          > My bike is strangely attracting eye balls as well, be it near tea stalls, traffic stops, people ask me about the bike. It's very exclusive to own this bike I have hardly seen a dozen Achievers till date in B'lore.
          > The tool kit under the seat had less no. of tools (HH has given me Splendor tool kit instead of Achievers'), hence was making some noise, fixed it by keeping some cleaning cloth.
          > Hit 100kmph few times, the absence of fairing is a blessing and feels a lot smoother at higher speed, no hint of 'resonance vibration till date'.

          Comment


          • 1st I’ll say something about the Tappet or Valve Clearance. Valve Clearance is just a gap which allows playing Inlet and Exhaust Valves. In the cold engine the Valve Clearance have an ideal gap specification and as the engine get wormer and wormer the gap increases so the play of valves increases. In normal condition when the engine cools down the gap also decrease. So the complete tappet issue is with temperature.

            Our desi bikes are air cooled, that means the air flow makes the engine to cool down. So you can imagine that just an air flow how much can help to cool down a metal. Here is the issue. We have to keep in mind that these engines are not liquid cooled like cars. The ability of cooling the engine is very less in air cooling system. And the engine heats up as much it runs. If you do a survey all those guys are getting valve clearance or tappet problems (Loose Valve clearance), 90% of them ride above the top speed limit, say @ 120+ km. where the manufacturer declared a top speed for each bikes. So we have to have kept this thing in mind. And maximum time those bike runs very less those get the Less Valve Clearance problems. Say if a bike is keep idle at home for weeks and weeks.
            And if the Valve Clearance increase then you will get tap tap noise and if the Valve Clearance decreases the engine will loose its power and maybe it can heat up more than normal. Another thing about the engine heat up is engine oil. In these bikes the engine oil works as a heat management system more than lubrication. The oil also helps to keep the engine cool. So we must stick with a recommended grade and a good oil, it doesn’t mean it should be a fully synthetic oil or so.

            So now we can say that the machine built to run faster so why we cant? Yes we can but the issue is servicing. A machine needs regular and exact servicing which these machines never get. Say about the Valve Clearance, it has a different specific gap for each different bike. Now at the service center suppose the service manual says the a Valve need .08mm gap but the service man using a scale ( Feeler Gauge ) that even don’t have that exact .08mm scale in it. Suppose Feeler Gauge have closest to the specification .10mm scale and the service guy set that gap at that scale. Even few times they tune it just any way, just by using their ideas. And if you ask its not a correct gap, the service guy politely reply sir its good for your bike. So here is the myth, suppose if a cold engine requires .08mm and when it get worm the gap increases to .10mm. But if the gap set to .10mm in a cold engine, it will get .12mm when it will be worm.

            So the over all issue is we if we love our machine we shouldn’t put these machine at extreme. The setting that company provides we never ever able to get that after a good servicing. Even each bolt in bike has a specific torque but no service guy cares.

            And about the carburetor: the carb is the heart of the engine. We know why we respect a Heart specialist doctor. A factory set default carb setting ONLY can provide optimum air-fuel mixture and optimum performance. And those guys getting low mileage in new bikes they must improve their riding skills, AFAIK. So always remember never let the service guy to mess with carb. Let the carb run if you get any problem clean it by an expertise. Generally a carb works well without any maintenance min 2-3 years. Generally to check a carb that is working well or not : warm-up the engine and set the RPM at exactly 2k or 3k and leave, after a few sec watch carefully that the needle is fluctuating or variable, going up and down or its is steady there. If it is steady then the carb is ok.
            Last edited by soumen.sam; 01-19-2010, 12:53 PM.
            Speed is a joy but roads are not race track. Keep speed in your limit and always Drive safe...

            Comment


            • Last edited by soumen.sam; 01-19-2010, 03:36 PM.
              Speed is a joy but roads are not race track. Keep speed in your limit and always Drive safe...

              Comment


              • I have used both CP1R and Motul 300V in my machine when it comes to Heat management motul wins hands down.


                +1000 This is what happened to me the first SC adjusted the tappet manually with the Middle finger .The second time they did the same only after i shouted at them, they used the guage even that did not solve the problem, i had to go to this particular Castrol bike zone in chennai who were even bigger idiots than the SC morons.

                i agree .

                Originally posted by soumen.sam View Post
                And about the carburetor: the carb is the heart of the engine. We know why we respect a Heart specialist doctor. A factory set default carb setting ONLY can provide optimum air-fuel mixture and optimum performance. And those guys getting low mileage in new bikes they must improve their riding skills, AFAIK. So always remember never let the service guy to mess with carb. Let the carb run if you get any problem clean it by an expertise. Generally a carb works well without any maintenance min 2-3 years. Generally to check a carb that is working well or not : warm-up the engine and set the RPM at exactly 2k or 3k and leave, after a few sec watch carefully that the needle is fluctuating or variable, going up and down or its is steady there. If it is steady then the carb is ok.
                I will try this for sure .
                sigpic

                Awesome indian militaryIndiaEquator - Sir Winston Churchill

                Comment


                • hi guys!!!!did 2nd service for my xtreme on 12th!!but the problem of vibration is not solved!!bike start vibrating at 3.5k rpm!!!now m fed up with service provided with sc!!

                  Comment


                  • Thanks bro for your valued reply. I am using IOC xtrapremium fuel from the beginning.
                    I have never asked my mechanic anything. The most important think to me is to have a healthy, smooth, powerful and long lasting engine. I always ride my bike @45-55 or 60 in highways.... but very very rarely I accelerate till 100 or 80 (two times I did it after 2000kms).
                    Yes!!!... the guy tuned the card in 2nd service.

                    From where you got your HH Hunk Serviced?? And Which fuel you are using & from which petrol pump? Please let me know brother...!!!!
                    Move on.........
                    bappaditya @ +919804822971.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by on wheels View Post
                      Thanks bro for your valued reply. I am using IOC xtrapremium fuel from the beginning.
                      I have never asked my mechanic anything. The most important think to me is to have a healthy, smooth, powerful and long lasting engine. I always ride my bike @45-55 or 60 in highways.... but very very rarely I accelerate till 100 or 80 (two times I did it after 2000kms).
                      Yes!!!... the guy tuned the card in 2nd service.

                      From where you got your HH Hunk Serviced?? And Which fuel you are using & from which petrol pump? Please let me know brother...!!!!
                      Please don't use ExtraPremium or any other 91 octane fuel. Your engine has a compression ratio of <10.0:1, so only normal unleaded fuel (87 octane) is recommended. Best stick to normal fuel from a reliable pump.
                      Its not that using fuel of a higher octane rating will damage your engine, but I think I remember you posting that your spark plug has lots of carbon deposits on it-this is the reason for it.
                      Quench my thirst with gasoline!

                      Comment


                      • Ownership update:

                        Mileage: 50-53kmpl in city. Highways 42-45kmpl, Ofcourse its ripping.
                        KMS: 11300kms in 7 months.
                        Repairs: Speedometer and side stand changed, gasket change and rear tire changed under warranty.
                        Engine oil: HH Stock oil 10w30. Used motuls, But not happy.
                        Consumables: Front brake pads are due change, will survive more 1000kms.
                        Tires: Excellent conditions. Rear dunlop geo-cruiser and front m45 doing great job.
                        2007 - Hero Honda CBZ Xtreme
                        2008 - Yamaha YZF R15
                        2009 - Hero Honda CBZ Xtreme
                        2013 - KTM 390 Duke
                        2017 - Yamaha FZ25

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
                          Please don't use ExtraPremium or any other 91 octane fuel. Your engine has a compression ratio of <10.0:1, so only normal unleaded fuel (87 octane) is recommended. Best stick to normal fuel from a reliable pump.
                          Its not that using fuel of a higher octane rating will damage your engine, but I think I remember you posting that your spark plug has lots of carbon deposits on it-this is the reason for it.
                          YES!!!!! So that can be the reason. But I felt that high octane petrol will give better combustion and hence clean engine. Is that not so????
                          Please reply because my fuel tank is getting empty. I need a fill within a day or two.
                          Last edited by on wheels; 01-20-2010, 08:43 PM.
                          Move on.........
                          bappaditya @ +919804822971.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by riazmomin View Post
                            Used motuls, But not happy.
                            .
                            What happened
                            sigpic

                            Awesome indian militaryIndiaEquator - Sir Winston Churchill

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by on wheels View Post
                              YES!!!!! So that can be the reason. But I felt that high octane petrol will give better combustion and hence clean engine. Is that not so????
                              Please reply because my fuel tank is getting empty. I need a fill within a day or two.
                              That is the reason for deposit on your sparkplug.
                              If you want to keep your engine cleaner, you can try Iftex/Bardahl petrol additives with the regular fuel.
                              Quench my thirst with gasoline!

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
                                you can try Iftex/Bardahl petrol additives with the regular fuel.
                                Hey i needed Bardahl injector cleaner. Any idea where they are available here?
                                Biking is not my Passion, it is my Religion!
                                DIY whatever it is..!!

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