Wow! Congratz..

Pls use choke for starting in morning or u will put strain on battery and spark plug, its also written in manual book too to use choke to start and then take choke to half and then off position.

Congratulation on your bike! Enjoy it, certainly a VFM product.

Just a piece of advice, if you want to have good mileage, excellent pick up and engine life for longer run, please please give it a proper run-in, follow the manual strictly, DO NOT rev it beyond 4K RPM for first 1000 kms, even though manual says 1000 kms of run-in, give it like 1200 to 1500 kms of run-in.

Give it a proper run-in, it will give you more than you wanted.

Ride safe.

Cheers!

But my bike's rpm goes over 4 sometimes while changing gears.

And is it ok to ride with full clutch pressed in traffic conditions as it good for mileage rather than reving bike hard and then pressing brakes. I mean does clutch plates gets any harm if we ride with clutch fully pressed.

That must not be any problem., Just dont revv the engine. Keep riding between 2500-4000rpm till first service or oil change(1000km or 1 month), put only yamalube mineral oil 20w40 grade and dont forget to get oil filter changed too, then onwards you can go upto 5000-6000rpm till next oil change. After which you can ride however you wish, but never cross 8000rpm!

My tank and Disc brake is getting rusted and I mailed to the Yamaha and they told me they will fix my bike.The Bikes tank is out of stock so waiting for the Tank to arive

Try to shift early rather than letting the revs rise higher.

As for using the clutch, the technique you have described is indeed bad for the clutch plates and your mileage. Instead of using the clutch, use engine braking.

I always start my bike on second gear no matter what, it gives me better control using clutch.

Secondly I change gear between 2.5 K to 3 K RPM, I ride on top gear (5th gear) at the speed of 30 kmph without knocking the engine, sometime even at 25 kmph with no engine knocking. Shifting the gears at 3K RPM is easy.

I would suggest all new SZ-R owners to go easy on bike at the run-in period. This bike have got superb pickup and it always tempts you to rev but hold yourself back for a while.

Cheers!

Too bad! How much does the actual tank cost? Are you claiming warranty or insurance on it?

Really! I started going upto 7000rpm after first service itself! I guess I could not really resist it, but I have followed all according to how manual has specified to ride after how many km how much rpm.

Agreed..

Riding Gear

How many of you uses RIding Gears like Gloves,JAckets.....etc While u drive ur SZ-R

please describe it more

I cant actually go out in this December cold, I use gloves/jacket for early morning ride to college! (P.S: My college is way outside the city)

1. For shifting gears, you do not need to hit the power band (the RPM range where you feel powerful acceleration) to shift gears. Shift the gear as soon as you feel that the engine has enough revs to stay alive in the next gear. You can judge this just by the sound of the engine (if your helmet is not too tight) after some time. Downshift the gear when the engine sounds stressed or if you feel knocking. Generally you can upshift around 4k RPM comfortably even on uneven roads and downshift at 2-2.5k RPM depending on the road and traffic conditions.

2. Engine breaking technique is when you shut the throttle or hold it very low so that the RPM of the wheels is greater than or matches the RPM of the engine. For a rider this means that the momentum of the wheels is helping to keep the engine running with minimum consumption of fuel. Normally you encounter least resistance from the engine at higher gears, meaning that the vehicle moves a greater distance with the throttle closed in 5th gear than it does in 3rd gear.
For using this technique effectively, imagine a scenario when you are approaching a red light at a traffic signal and you notice that light from a distance. In this case instead of accelerating till the vehicles standing there and braking hard, just close the throttle. Your bike will move (called coasting) slower than what it would with the clutch disengaged or if you had revved your bike higher, but you will reach the point where you need to halt at lesser speeds. This implies lesser fuel used, minimal wear of the clutch and lesser wear on the brakes. Practice using engine braking whenever you don't need to need to stop suddenly.
Remember just close the throttle without using the clutch.

totally agree with vikyath

Guys,
The small phatphat sound coming from silencer when I close the throttle is not there now. Bike is giving 48kmpl mileage in city/highway in speeds of 50-70kmph. Ya, i know going slower gives better, but i feel its too slow.

Did 80km ride today, no issues, front handle feels heavy, guess I need to get air checked in front tyre. Recently got Tribocor chain lube too and got a 55/60w omni headlight bulb fixed the same time for more brightness, later that day felt the dome got heated more than usual, so got it removed and put stock back since I dont anyways do much night ride and did not want the good reflectors damaged. Perhaps i'll buy a good phillips/osram uv free bulbs which cost more but dont heat like this when I got more cash.

Unicorn VS SZ

Unicorn and SZ are both positioned towards commuters and both are competitors. Here is my views after riding both bikes:-

I feel that refinement of SZ is at par with unicorn as the bike is damn smooth at all variable speed and gears.

Pick-up of SZ is better and sound of SZ is somewhat better than unicorn (totally personal preference).

The front end of SZ feels more planted than unicorn and steering is also light.

Seating position is better than unicorn.

It feels to me somewhat better balanced than unicorn under normal riding. Comfort level is better than unicorn. I haven't leaned it fully (because that's pretty scary) so cant comment on that.

So Whats the purpose of monoshock in unicorn as it is a commuter bike?

Looks are subjective and i personally like unicorn's look more than SZ.

SZ-R (top model) is Rs. 6000 cheaper than unicorn.

Sz looks more robust than unicorn.

In sz one can add carry box but there is no provision for it in unicorn.

Unicorn has kick and SZ is without kick.

SZ has got no starting trouble at all but unicorn has.

SZ is lighter than unicorn and zig-zag is easy in traffic.

Gear changing lever is conventional in SZ whereas in Unicorn it is sporty type.

Mileage of Unicorn is somewhat better than SZ.

In SZ one need less gear changes than unicorn in traffic.

Both the bikes has good smooth gear shifting and soft clutch.

The comparison is based on my personal experience and i like both the bikes and no offense of either.