Started my fazer almost after a month to get it a nice wash, I was surprised to see the bike start with just the push of the button and no stalling. My new P200NS gets on my nerves with cold start in the morning.

Any way I had a nice ride after the wash and the bike felt just like when it was new. Will be getting a better lighting next week.

AND HAPPY DUSSHERA/ VIJAYA DASHAMI TO EVERYONE.

Keep the electrolyte level on check.. Top it up with distilled water if needed... the battery won't give you any trouble.

200NS needs a slight throttle and probably increasing the idling speed should help you with the cold starts.

Cheers,

Bhai, the query was in a almost new bike he couldn't see the brake fluid level through the level window and was worried being a newbie. Just said level is fine since it is above the window level. Since no issue with braking efficiency, there shouldn't be any issue in a brand new bike. That's all. Lots of misinterpretation I never stopped him from opening and checking.

Hi Deville & Luke,
Bullying with each other regarding someone else's problem doesn't make any sense to me. Rather unnecessary arguments. Not everyone is specialized/knowledgeable doing everything by themselves.

What is the color of brake oil!!!! Today i checked the oil level but it looks like there is no oil.My bike is just 4 months old and there is no sign of leakage. The brakes are working fine.....but i am confused,either the oil is full or nill by the way it looks.

a doubt guys....suppose my bike was running lean.....hence the spark plug colour will be whitish rite??.....now if i tune the carb and make it perfect or near perfect.... the colour of sparky would change rite??...after how much KM/time will i be able to observe the difference in the sparky colour??

around 50 kms should do the job....

am i missing anything??

50kms. You are joking right?
If you are joking then well played my friend. Thanks for the laugh, However if you are being serious then....
30seconds at the RPM you want to check will be enough to change the color of the plug, However looking at the plug and reading the plug is entirely different.

If you are having problems @idle then leave the engine to idle for 30sec-1min and then turn it off. Pull plug and inspect.
'' '' '' @ 3000RPM, best to ride around for the same time and then switch off/pull clutch at the same time and pull off the road. Pull the plug and inspect. If you allow the engine RPM to drop down then you will be reading the plug at the lower RPM, Not the tested RPM.

at the same time can you also please describe how can one tune their carbs? I have read some material on the net but most of them are pretty vague....

Hi,
I guess i can finally boast about keeping my ride in top notch condition. If folks may recollect that i had posted sometime back that due to my absence and abstinence from starting up my ride thanks to out of station work, the battery had died down and the engine warning light was ON and the engine never cranked when someone attempted to start her up. So today a good friend of mine took the pains to help her come back to life from coma.

For NOOBS this may be helpful:

Since, my model is of 2010 make, it doesnot come with the kicker and only has an electric start as an option. One may think that oh my god!! now since the battery is dead, the world has come to an end and we shall all perish!! Not the case children!! all one needs to do is put the fuel knob on ON or reserve, keep the key to ON position, engage 2nd gear let the helpful brother/uncle/sibling/security guard/GF? give your ride a push and then suddenly release the clutch, after an attempt or two she will come back to life. Personally i feel the kick lever looks mighty ugly Yuckkkk!! and prefer the electric starter only anyday.

In my case as my friend informed me, when he attempted the above method, my ride spluttered once or twice and then cranked to life emitting a huge plum of black smoke from the exhaust for first 10-15 seconds then everything was normal. I guess this has happened due to incomplete combustion and dirt or gum deposition in the fuel lines which got sucked out after she was started..

He took her to a local mechanic, got the battery out, refilled it with distilled water and let it set on charge for 8 hours. No matter how much i hate stock AMCO battery, it has retained its charge post 2.1 years of ownership and ofcourse due to periodic maintenance and ensuring that electrolyte level is always up to the mark. While the rest of the bike was just oiled and greased. The Carburetor was drained from the drain screw and as per PSR JIs advice, i had drained the tank completely got it cleaned and fresh fuel was put in to remove any dirt/gum formation due to oxidation of old fuel is taken out before it starts clogging the system..

Once i come back, she will receive a healthy session of system G. I had given strict instructions to my friend that the local mechanic is not to be left alone with my ride to do what he pleases and no engine oil change or any kind of servicing is to take place. No one except the boys at Kamla Yamaha, Mumbai have the exclusive rights to do whatever they wish to do with her and in my presence ofcourse!!

The rear tire had lost a lot of psi while the front had lost just 3 psi.. and after inspection the tire guys gave their verdict that the tire compound has become hard and there are many cracks all over it (as mentioned earlier!!) so now the rear tire will start losing air pressure regardless.. So I guess Dunlop Tuffgrip tire shall soon be doing duty in the rear once, i come back..

As per the feedback from my friend, the mechanics were astonished when he told them that this bike is 2 years old and has already done 22k+. They thought it was 8 months or a year old as the engine was vibe free and the whole bike looked new and shiny (some extra tips to the cleaner coming up!!). So I guess its time to give myself a pat on the back and some brownie points ofcourse!! She is still butter smooth, gear engages easily, no clutch slippage and eager to go crazy on the corners even though her shoes have lost the original slickness due to the rubber hardening. Motul 300V 15W 50 FS oil looked light brown, oil level was normal and it has retained its integrity even after her lying idle for such a long time so thats makes it earn 5 stars from my end.

I normally would have bored you all with pics however this time it was not me who did all this. I am grateful to my friend and he has assured me that she would be taken out for a spin once a week which i feel is more than enough to keep her in top shape!

Now the only thing is pending is giving her the new bigger heart 180CC courtesy Race Concepts along with other major power up kit upgrades which i shall cover extensively along with pics and videos in the Powerhouse FZ 18 thread at Pit Stop and General Biking Discussion master thread.

Stay tuned..

Cheers,

I leave the jetting and AF tune to my Mechanic, Thats what I pay him for. Tuning the AF only affects very slight throttle openings (around 1/8th and less than 1/4 when a jet will begin taking over) More throttle openings will mean more jets coming into play.
If I start to get a little stumble (rich) then I mark the position of the AF screw with a permanent marker (so I can always come back to that tune/position) back the AF screw out (lean) 1/4 turn. Ride around and feel for the stumble, If it reduces then I can either leave it or tweak it some more.

If you don't know what you are doing then best leave it. I leave the tune to my mechanic, Its his job, he's got yrs of experience.

If you do decide to bite the bullet and have a go, them make sure you only due little adjustments at a time, Don't go screwing it 1/2 or full turns. Make notes of how many turns left or right.