Hello everyone

I have a 2010 ( May ) Fazer ( 1st gen - without kick starter ). As a previous poster said, only one light will be activated as stock when newly bought. But the company itself offers to bridge both the " eyes " during first service. So i got the lights done during the first service ( cost was about 10 bucks for wire ). Actually both the halogens have low & high filaments but are not enabled in dual mode. After the bridging, both lamps light up, during low & high beam modes.

Although the halogens are 35/35 W, they suck a lot of battery juice. My battery ( exide was provided when i bought the bike ) has become weak after 2 1/2 years. I had to recharge it at a private battery service center, because Yamaha SC says that they only charge the battery for 2 hours when we give the bike for service. Battery still holds charge but on constant use, the charge goes down again. As i primarily use the bike at night with both lamps burning, i guess batery doesn't get enough charge time

Staying with headlights, the glow from the 35/35 is so poor I do not want to go for HID yet, as my battery is already conking off trying to provide power for dual 35/35. Maybe i can go for those white light halogens ( is Osram's Nightbreaker such an option ? ) Does anyone have any suggestions for a white light halogen ? and what wattage should we use ? can we use the 55/60 W we use in other bikes ? Do i need to change wiring or fit a relay if i want to use 55/60 halogens ? ( i use a 90 / 100 in my RX - coil winding has been done. if i use 55/60, the filaments fuse at 60+ kmph )

What do you guys suggest for my battery problems ? Is it normal for the battery to become weak after only 2 + 1/2 years ? ( i hardly ride 10 kms a day these days & mostly at night. I do not ride the Fazer daily as i have a RX100. There is sulphation on the battery terminal ( + postive terminal ) )

So i have to jump start the bike sometimes - will this strain the clutch ? will this wear the clutch down ? Should i install a kick starter ? ( the newer models from 2012 have a kicker as standard )

also, coming to TPS. Does the 2010 model ( which i have ) have one ? cos my neighbour bought a FZ-S ( 2012 ) and it has 2 cables starting from the throttle ( 1 for throttle & other for TPS ). What is the use of TPS ? is it beneficial ? Can it be retrofitted in my old model bike ? does it use the same carb or a different one ?

If i go for a aftermarket CDI, like the RC CDI, is having TPS better or is it better without ?

The latest versions of the FZ series have lower chain guard - can we fit this directly or does it need some brackets ?

Can we directly fix the new wider seat ( for newer versions ) on our old models ? or is it better to go to a bike upholstery shop and just add extra 1 inch cushion + a seat cover ? - one post about the hardness of the seat is true. Pillions complain & women find it uncomfy and thin too

Are the newer grab handles better than the old tubular steel ones in old models ? Can the new ones directly replace the old ones ?

Is the new rear fender ( supposed to be bigger but ugly ) better than the old one ? ( When i bought the bike, the dealer gave me a add on mud flap for the rear fender - they said it was mandatorily supplied by Yamaha )

Well, my bike used to return about 45 kmpl initially. Then suddenly, it dipped to 30 kmpl or less. But after frequent tune ups at ASC, it now gives 40 kmpl +, sometimes 45 +.
The top speed i have doen is a relaxed 111 kmph on half throttle - didn't try further.

I used to add System 2/3 or System G ( from Iftex ) and i felt a positive difference in the engine behaviour but nowadays, i cannot seem to get it in my city. Are there any suggestions for additives ?

Bike has done 8250 kms in 2 yrs & 8 months. Thinking of switching to NGK IX iridium spark plug. Then maybe get the direct stock replacement air filter ( no universal filter stuff - this fits inside the airbox ) from either K& N ( 2690/- M.R.P ) or from Simota ( 2200/- M.R.P ). Even later, maybe try a FFE from RC - ( but i might skip the FFE )

What oil do you suggest for my Fazer ? i used to let the ASC replace with the standard Yamalube mineral 20W40. At the 12th service @ 7034 kms, i asked them to replace with Yamalube ss 15W50 ( the one they use for the R15 ). I am thinking of switching over to Motul 300v ( fs ). What do you think ? Should i wait till i clock 10K kms or can i switch now ?

Well, sorry for the long post but i need answers to my questions please

Thank You
~ Rev

{ This is a repost. I previously posted this in the " Yamaha Fazer ownership thread " but a member suggested that i post here, so that i would get more replies & suggestions. I hope double posting problem does not arise }

@4htn4V3r: may i suggest that you request the mods to shift this query to either FZ18 or yamaha FZ/FZ-s/Fazer tech talk thread? It is an appropriate thread to answer your queries there related to modifications and other tech talks.


Cheers,

Hello,
That would be swell. How do i do that now ? This forum format is different from the game forums i am used to.

Thank You

~ Rev

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

I'm not much of an interstate tourer.But if I ever do,I would definitely fit it back again,so I've kept it safely at home.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using xBhp Connect mobile app

Thread Approved and Merged

Hi,
I see only one solution to your battery problems, change the battery (sulphation is sign of weak battery). I have seen people using dual HID set up without battery issues, but only when it is used judiciously. You can find out the battery discharge rate, by mounting an ammeter. I have similar issues, but battery holds the charge overnight, may be for a day or 2. Fortunately I opted for a kick as an accessory (2010 model), so no starting trouble but will be replacing the battery soon.
You can use 55w set up without rewinding, but then switch back to single bulb on. Else use it cautiously or else it will drain the battery (new) fast. You can opt for rewinding (there is a coil available from R&D Motovil), but you will need to change the RR circuit as well. Post your query in lighting thread; you will get the answers regarding the changes & risks and also ownership review. Do a Google search.
Are you using jumpstart or push start? Use jump start with caution. With very weak battery, push start also won't work.
TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) on the carburettor, makes possible 3-dimensional control of ignition timing advance by means of “3-dimensional mapped advance control” based on engine rpm and throttle opening. This provides a higher level of drivability and contributes to excellent fuel economy. I don't think there is much of a difference in 2 versions.
RC CDI? Ask the owners, they can guide you better.
It is not a direct fit. You will need to weld to clips with nuts.
Not sure. But someone in few threads back mentioned that, it is not a direct fit. Check the seat covers in your area or check with seat modifiers.
Someone in few threads back mentioned that, it is not a direct fit.
The old fender is good enough. If pillions complain then change it in rainy season & revert back.
I'm using System 2/3 for the first time & felt the difference. May be after constant use, you are used to it, so don't find any difference. I'll not recommend any additives unless proven.
If replacing the stock filter, you will also need replacement of jets & tuning of carburettor. My suggestion is, go for FFE, excellent VFM. No need to change to NGK. I'm using it, but not much of a difference as compared to stock.
Motul 300v is good but costlier than SS/mineral. For more check in engine oil thread.
Because it is a motorcycle forum!!! Stop playing indoors & enjoy outdoors (8500kms in 3yrs)!
Hi Varunnraju,
Show it to SVC ASAP. Don’t ride with warning light.

Piston Rings issue

Hi all ,

I have a FZ-16 of year 2010 clocked at 28000 ...Its a well maintained ...but today as I went to SVC for regular service after running 2500 kms...it had only 100 ml engine oil. The SVC guys told me to replace piston rings as when giving throttle till redline rpm...the engine releases white smoke . But I have no issues with the pick up , mileage everything is fine. I don`t trust SVC guys as I think that white smoke may even come out due to improper air-fuel mixture. Please help.


I have one more question that Does a brand new bike releases white smoke at excessive acceleration ??

Comparing with 10W, heavier (15 or 20W) oil makes the fork stiffer and 5W makes it softer. The stiffness of the spring and air gap (the quantity of oil filled) has its own role here.

Hi,
My motorcycle when it was new, I saw white/blue smoke under hard acceleration, but it was immediately after the wash, so it may have been caused by water. When piston rings wears out, the exhaust will have blue smoke, due to oil entering into the combustion chamber. If under normal operation if you don't see any smoke or no abrupt changes in the oil level don't go for the change.

please can you elaborate your post?as one of the riders,shv18 said that 20W made the front go soft as compared to 10W.

hi...

Thanks for the quick reply....yes I forget to mention that I also checked the bike after it was washed today itself. I think the smoke might have come due to water only as specified by you..

Thanks a lot....

He, shv18, said nothing like that. He said the ride through the road’s undulations became smoother; not the fork became softer as you think. A smoother ride and a softer fork is different.

Coming back here after a long time. My Fazer (2011) has completed 2 years and the last paid service is due (overdue, infact). Some friends advised me against doing the last service citing various reasons. The common one was - the SVC guys will most probably replace fully functional parts on my bike with old parts from their stockpile. This will eventually result in retaining me (as a customer) for some more time.

My friends also advised looking for a good mechanic for bike-servicing from now on.

Though the bike is 2 years old, it has clocked only 3800 KMS and I am fairly a n00b when it comes to bikes. So, there is no way I can figure out any changes if they do such things.

So, I need advice from you guys on this matter.

P.S - I live in Thane.

I never went to svc after 2nd service.. Went some six-seven months back to buy oil filters (which 3-4 SVC did not have in stock!! Thats the condition of SVCs in hyderabad)

I change engine oil every 2K - 2.5K kms, fill water in battery every 3-4 months, lubricate chain every 300 kms or 20 days, carb cleaning after 11k kms, air filter cleaning every 500 kms.. its time to replace air filter(running 12.XX kms), will replace spark plug after 15K, brake pads will be replaced as and when required(just cleaned the rear ones once).

You may choose to do these things early, but thats how I keep my bike.

Hi All,
Its been a long long time i have posted here... I need a help from u guys..
I own a Fazer 2009 model, marked 52,000 km. There is a strange noise from the engine & it annoys... Clutch plate was changed a month ago i have this problem since then... The bikes pick up has also gone down. Engine is not smooth at all. The sound is like "hammering on the engine head". Took it to the SVC thy dont have any clue and telling me tht the bike's engine sound is normal.

What might be the problem? Is there a Gud mechanic in North Chennai ?