What's the difference between Petroleum Jelly & Grease w.r.t battery terminals?
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Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Someone pointed out to apply grease to battery terminals; which is not advised on many online sources(e.g Youtube DIY).Originally posted by accuengineer View Post
What's the difference between Petroleum Jelly & Grease w.r.t battery terminals?There is no honest path to prosperity - KoKa
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Maybe the new Revz is good but I got so fedOriginally posted by devils_friend View PostThe new Revz-M isn't puncture prone and have heard that it is medium compound unlike soft compound (stock tyre Revz). Also, the new FZ V2 has Revz-Y. Although, not sure about its difference and other aspects.
Cheerz!!
up by the stock tyre( read 21 punctures in a span of 2 yrs). I literally was running with 10 punctures at a time filling air everyday. After I have change to PSD i am a happy man
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Cheers
Mathews
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We can use grease but we have to use white lithium grease. White Lithium grease and petroleum jelly are hydrophobic(water repellent). This is the reason why they are applied on the battery terminals to avoid moisture deposition thereby leading to corrosion(red rust). The reason why in general grease is to be avoided is that other type of grease are not fully hydrophobic. As times passes the hydrophobic properties of the grease decreases and the terminal are exposed to moisture. But Petroleum jelly does not loss its hydrophobic properties as times passes. This is the reason petroleum jelly is perferred over grease.Originally posted by SparKot View PostSomeone pointed out to apply grease to battery terminals; which is not advised on many online sources(e.g Youtube DIY).
What's the difference between Petroleum Jelly & Grease w.r.t battery terminals?
Cheers
Mathews
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I think it is close to Rs. 1800.Originally posted by nadz11.ns View PostDoes anybody know the current price of stock MRF front tyre ?
The tyre has done 278xx kms and would require a change soon.
Cheers
Mathews
Smile at everyone you meet and make someone happy.
Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
1750 here in Mumbai. Should be same across India.Originally posted by nadz11.ns View PostDoes anybody know the current price of stock MRF front tyre ?
The tyre has done 278xx kms and would require a change soon.
Cheerz!!The real beauty lies in throttle's twist!!
Headlight can be replaced, Head cannot be. Wear a helmet.
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
It has been almost 1 year since I have replaced the swing arm bush and bearing. I had greased them well then. Since last 1 week I could hear squiking sound. So did a DIY for greasing the swing arm bush and bearings. At last found the culprit. The bush that goes into the monoshocks had rusted and there was no movement and was the reason for the squiling sound. Removed them and replaced the bush with new one. Greased all the vital points and voila she is good as new.
Cheers
Mathews
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I beg to differ I had a puncture the second day after delivery. The tyres were brand new and pressure was correct 33 psi.Originally posted by kusmaker View Postpuncture problem mostly starts occuring when tyre gets old and starts flatening.
Cheers
Mathews
Smile at everyone you meet and make someone happy.
Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
I agree to that its the best, felt it would be better to increase the height of the front end to maintain the stock front and rear height ratios. I was hoping this reduces the load on the sprocket and conesets. Couple of mechanics told me the increased height in the rear has caused major wear on the earlier chain and sprockets and also on the coneset. Did not want to go back to stock mrf since I have already done 10k on the tuffgrip thought i can save the new set of sprocket and coneset by upsizing the front tyre.Originally posted by accuengineer View PostI think you have pointed out the problem spot on. Many times even in SVC they do not check the electrolyte concentration and charge . They just apply white petroleum jelly and close the cover. As a practice it is better to personally check the level once in a month.
Since @bikashnayak has not recharged externally his battery even once. He can try to recharge the battery. Maybe the problem can be solved. And Please don't start you engine with the main lights on it will draw more power and can lead to faster discharge of the battery.
cheers
Mathews
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The front stock tyres in our FZ is the best I would say in terms of grip(wet and dry) and leaning angle. So better go in for stock front tyres. We are looking for alternative only for the rear tyre as MRF revz is puncture prone.
Cheers
Mathews
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Don't worry your bike will not feel a thing. In fact I am using PSD 130/80-17 which increases the height even further. And my cone set is stock (35K). The chain sprocket set will have very mild effect if properly cleaned and lubricated will not have any problem. So go in for stock front tyres.Originally posted by Mizt View PostI agree to that its the best, felt it would be better to increase the height of the front end to maintain the stock front and rear height ratios. I was hoping this reduces the load on the sprocket and conesets. Couple of mechanics told me the increased height in the rear has caused major wear on the earlier chain and sprockets and also on the coneset. Did not want to go back to stock mrf since I have already done 10k on the tuffgrip thought i can save the new set of sprocket and coneset by upsizing the front tyre.
Cheers
Mathews
Smile at everyone you meet and make someone happy.
Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
I have been running on starter moter of yamaha ss125 (gladiator).It is a direct fit.I have been using it since 3 months.It is starting bike preety well .Does starter moter function anything else other than starting the bike , I mean while running the bike.
I am asking this because my bike gets really hot even after driving just 5 kms.
I have been running on bypassed Air Induction System and 4 k kms old spark plug.Carburator tuning and air filter cleaning was recently done.Recently changed yamalube to castrol poewr 1 20w40 and total odometer reading is 70k kms.
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Originally posted by accuengineer View PostIt has been almost 1 year since I have replaced the swing arm bush and bearing. I had greased them well then. Since last 1 week I could hear squiking sound. So did a DIY for greasing the swing arm bush and bearings. At last found the culprit. The bush that goes into the monoshocks had rusted and there was no movement and was the reason for the squiling sound. Removed them and replaced the bush with new one. Greased all the vital points and voila she is good as new.
Cheers
Mathews
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I beg to differ I had a puncture the second day after delivery. The tyres were brand new and pressure was correct 33 psi.
Cheers
Mathews
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Man i didn't said that you can't have puncture in a new tyre if a nail pierces the tyre puncture is bound to happen, what i wanted to say is bald tyres or tyres which are having less rubber in the centre can get punctured even with smallest of shrapnelLast edited by kusmaker; 07-21-2014, 11:19 PM.
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Have any of you been using auto seal liquid on tyres.I have been using it.When ever you get puncture the liquid seals the hole and no air loss happens.Originally posted by kusmaker View Post----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
Man i didn't said that you can't have puncture in a new tyre if a nail pierces the tyre puncture is bound to happen, what i wanted to say is bald tyres or tyres which are having less rubber in the centre can get punctured even with smallest of shrapnel
I tries myself by piercing the tyre with a thin nail but the liquid worked and air loss happened.
1 litre bottle lasts for around 6 months on rear tyre of fz.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy s3
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
How does the tyre behaves with the liquid inside. Is 1 litre required and what is the cost of the liquid. And should we refill every six months. Sorry for the series of question. As I am thinking of implementing this.Originally posted by Ishwor View PostHave any of you been using auto seal liquid on tyres.I have been using it.When ever you get puncture the liquid seals the hole and no air loss happens.
I tries myself by piercing the tyre with a thin nail but the liquid worked and air loss happened.
1 litre bottle lasts for around 6 months on rear tyre of fz.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy s3
Cheers,
Mathews
Smile at everyone you meet and make someone happy.
Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Difference is not that noticeable on the tyres.Mechanic usually pour in a litre bottle but I think even less quantity will work but not last long.Originally posted by accuengineer View PostHow does the tyre behaves with the liquid inside. Is 1 litre required and what is the cost of the liquid. And should we refill every six months. Sorry for the series of question. As I am thinking of implementing this.
Cheers,
Mathews
It cost around 180 indian rupees and is china made.
Mechanic simply open tyre pour the liquid and some kind of rubber powder that comes with the bottle and fits back and rotate the tyre.
I have been refilling every 6 months but mechanic says bikes with small tyres can go even for years.
You wont even notice the puncture.Its really boon when going on tour or offroad.
I think you can google about it.
Regards Ishwor
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
While cleaning the bike noticed that this pipe had come off. The bike behaved strange since past 100-150 kms like felt sluggish and was going off often. Was this the culprit? After fixing it back it feels better, but riding in this condition for 100 odd kms would have caused any harm to the engine?
I guess its the air intake hose, and the engine would have inhaled unfiltered air, correct me if i'm wrong. Anything to worry?
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Have always assumed it to be an air recirculation (through air filter) hose for crankcase ventilation.Originally posted by sachin_v View PostWhile cleaning the bike noticed that this pipe had come off. The bike behaved strange since past 100-150 kms like felt sluggish and was going off often. Was this the culprit? After fixing it back it feels better, but riding in this condition for 100 odd kms would have caused any harm to the engine?
I guess its the air intake hose, and the engine would have inhaled unfiltered air, correct me if i'm wrong. Anything to worry?
Was checking for air leaks so that is when I first noticed this particular hose.
Goes to a sort of metal thing attached very close to & under the fuel tank (most probably a sort of valve).then goes to the air filter from there.
I think this air is calculated to be in the final intake mixture so bike was needing more air. If a picture of the spark plug had been taken during the problem it would've been easier to pinpoint. cosidering 100-200 kms
Lean -> bit harmful if rode continuously for a good many kms
Rich -> 'almost' no harmLast edited by curve_king; 07-23-2014, 01:30 AM.
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