Yes its valid upto 6 months from the day of registration.

Pre-delivery inspection..

Hi all.. I booked my fzs (black n yellow) and will get the delivery this sunday (hopefully). Just want to know what all things i should check/keep in mind while picking up the bike.. want to make sure i make the most out of pdi..

Thanks..

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Congrats man..ask for freebies,scratch cards..check for scratches in the bike...do registration for your bike yourself(don't let him take it for reg. he will ride it fast)..

Notes from a 600 km ride from Bangalore to Pondycherry

My friends and I went on a bike trip from Blr to Pondy this week. 3 guys on 1 FZ16, 1 Apache 180 and 1 Pulsar 220 DtsFI. Total distance of about 640 km.

- Being the least powerful bike, the FZ had trouble keeping up with the others on the straight roads. No such problems once the roads turned twisty.

- Excellent stability even at high speeds and in turns. Both the chassis and the tyres are very good. The tyres' grip on dry and wet surfaces was very good but I didn't set out test their limits.

- We generally cruised at around 85 km/h to 90 km/h when the roads were good and around 75 km/h when they weren't. The agile yet stable handling helps easily avoid potholes. The engine had aboslutely no trouble maintaining these speeds. Even 95 km/h may have been possible but I didn't maintain that speed for too long so as not to strain the engine too much.

- The top speed I touched without pushing the bike too much or even crouching over the tank was an indicated 113 km/h. I wasn't really interested in extracting the maximum.

- I'm 5'10" and I found the bike to be very comfortable. The return journey from Pondy covering over 300 km was done in less than 7 hours and I didn't suffer from any back aches. The saddle too is very comfortable for me. Just a slight sore bum which disappeared after a night's rest.

- I used a 55/60 W bulb. Some local Indian brand that claims to be Xenon filled. It worked well and I didn't suffer any battery problems. The last 4 hours of the ride were in darkness. The headlamp is designed for city use and as a consequence, the beam spreads very wide in both low and high beams. The low beam with the 60 W bulb is capable of illuminating 2 lanes of the NH! At 85 km/h on the highway, a long range is required for both high and low beams so the headlamp wasn't satisfactory. For my next long trips, I'll be installing a long range driving lamp.

- The instrument console is rubbish in daylight! It's completely unreadable in daylight. It's only slightly better in darkness. I'd have preferred conventional analogue instruments for all the gauges. They are easier to read and more accurate.

- I noticed that my rear tyre was getting consistently warmer and even sticky compared to the other 2 bikes'. The Pulsar has the same rear tyre. After various other theories, I finally realised that the catalytic converter in front of the rear tyre gives off so much heat that the tyre is heated significantly. I'm not sure this is good and if it isn't, I've decided to make a heat/air deflector for the tyre.

- I hit a large bump around 70 km/h or so. I noticed it too late but held on tight. The rim seems to be unaffected. Same case for the Apache which was following me.

- Finally, I had a problem with sixth gear. There isn't one! And I repeatedly felt the need for one since fifth is so low geared. I'll start looking for alternate size sprockets for my next long trip.

How to clean a chain.

I cleaned a TVS Apache 180 chain today. Its chain, like the FZ's, is an O-ring chain. This is how I did it. This chain was from the Apache that accompanied me on my trip to Pondy (See previous message) so it was just a dirty as mine.

Materials
- Kerosene: about 250 ml
- Paint brush: 25 mm (1")
- Old Newspaper
- Clean rags
- Cup to hold the kerosene
- Chain lubricating spray

Method
I dipped the brush in kerosene and liberally applied and brused it on the chain on the inner and outer surfaces as well as both the sides, along the entire length until any visible dirt such as sand or other grains was washes off.

I then cleaned the rear sprocket too in the same way, taking care not to let the dirt fall on the chain.

I started the engine, engaged 4th gear and accelerated and let the wheel spin (on the main stand, of course) for a minute until any free kerosene and dirt flew off it. This is like the spin dry cycle in washing machines!

After leaving a few more minutes for further drying, I applied the chain lube spray. I had a brand called Tribocor, from Mysore, on hand. It comes out as a thick foam that quickly turns oily and viscous. I ran the engine with 1st gear engaged so the chain was moving slowly and sprayed the entire length of the chain.

Then, when the spray was still wet, I ran the engine in 4th gear and spun the wheel for a minute to eject the excess lubricant from the chain. I had someone hold some newspaper sheets behind the bike to prevent it flying all over the place.

This particular brand is quite messy since it dries into a thick, waxy substance and dirt sticks to it. So I used the rags dipped in kerosene to wipe away the lube that fell on the wheel and other places.

I then waited for a couple of hours for the lube to dry or until it was no longer "wet" to the touch and then re-sprayed the chain as before. A second round of cleaning followed.

At the end of it, the chain looks like it new!

I had used this lube spray on my FZ before my Pondycherry trip without even cleaning the chain and I had no problems with the chain, especially in the rain (hundreds of km of it!) and dust.


Additional Info
Most chain and bike manufacturers advice using kerosene to clean all types of power transmission chains. This method is definitely the less fun one as compared to simply spraying on a chain cleaner but in my opinion, the better method. The discussion on chain lubes on Xbhp are many and long and I think any good quality spray will work fine.

How To Adjust a Headlamp

This is the method I follow for all headlamps and I've found it to be both easy and accurate.

1 - Loosen the appropriate screw, nut or bolt that locks the headlamp's position. In the case of the FZ, its the single bolt underneath the headlamp. If the headlamp is held by spring-loaded screws, this step doesn't apply.

2 - Place the vehicle atleast 6 metres (20") to 10 metres (33") from a flat wall in such a manner that the front vehicle is parallel to it (especially for cars).

3 - Measure the height of the headlamp's centre with a tape or even by just standing next to it and holding your hand at the correct height. Mark this height on the wall.

4 - This step is particularly important for cars. It's important that the vehicle's headlamps or front be parallel to the wall. Measure and mark the projection of both headlamps on the wall such that the line from each headlamp centre is perpendicular to the wall.

5 - Switch on the HIGH beam and adjust the headlamp by manually moving it or by adjusting the screw(s) such that the brightest part of the beam is at the height of the mark on the wall. If it's a car, adjust the headlamp in such a way that the brightest part of the beam is not only on at the height of the mark on the wall but also in the same line as the respective headlamp centres.

6 - Tighten the locking nuts, screws or bolts without disturbing the headlamp level.

7 - Test on the road.

8 - If the low beam is too high and glares oncoming vehicles on a flat road, readjust the headlamps SLIGHTLY lower.

Awesome description buddy.. No body else has taken the time or trouble as you have done to describe all this in detail... Thanks .. :-)

Good to hear that your trip went fine.. Even I'm used to go for long trips of < 500 Kms , once in a month... Haven't faced issues with the bike on such trips....

FZ is truly a great bike.. but cant be compared to a tourer.. :-)

3M Engine Plus is an additive, which I guess all the SVCs (atleast in bangalore) are adding now. Recommended by Yamaha guys.

I would advice you to keep it less then 80KMph. I have done couple of long rides to (not to pondy though.. but wayanad and etc).. The engine really heats up. You will notice the rip after few K Kms on your bike.

I find the stock ones pretty fine.

I disagree, sorry dude, but i find it pretty good.

Same here man...!! I would also would want an extra gear.....

Cheers and happy touring!!!

in many FZ's in my city i observed one common thing that many of them were having holes in rear alloys what are they for??

I would advice you to keep it less then 80KMph. I have done couple of long rides to (not to pondy though.. but wayanad and etc).. The engine really heats up. You will notice the rip after few K Kms on your bike.



I find the stock ones pretty fine.



I disagree, sorry dude, but i find it pretty good.



Same here man...!! I would also would want an extra gear.....

Cheers and happy touring!!![/QUOTE]

firstly , kudos to the effort taken to put up the details bro , i guess i hav to disagree with you on the above said points ... i did a trip recently and the first half was in daylight and the second at night , so first i think the console is pretty readable , i had no probs with it , maybe you like analog better ( just my opinion ) , the stock bulbs were more than sufficient for me ,i did adjust my headlamp , so after that it's working fine , i did the trip with a CBZ X and a Honda shine , the headlamps provided sufficient illumination... for the road wasn't provided with lights all the way through ... had absolutely no trouble . bike worked like a charm , speeds were at 85-90 and the way back in darkness , it was 90+ , coz we were in a hurry ... no issues of overheating noticed ... bike's done only 3.5k k km though ,
that maybe the reason ...

You are right, Headlight of FZ is designed for city ride only. Highway illumination is terrible. While coming back from mysore to bangalore once, even though it was two-way divided road, i used to get blinded by opposite vehicle. I installed Osram NB, and illumination has improved a lot now.

i saw the Osram NB on e bay ,those are totally fake, real ones have 2 blue stripes on the bulb ,does urs have them

Yea, It does have a blue stripes. And i compared with my friends NB who had got it in local shop its same imported from Germany.

The person selling from ebay has shop in mumbai,

Sniper Automotives - Contact Us

Hello fz owners, please help me on proper tuning my fz 16. Earlier, I had changed the company adjusted tuning and made the screw turn left ie. toward less power.
The idle rpm is showing about 1200rpm. I feel a sort of missing between the gears. Also the bike just runs for around 5 seconds in neutral and goes OFF. There have also been starting problems.

But the advantage is that I noticed a good increase in mileage. I was getting 40-42 kmpl after my first service, but after the tuning I got 54kmpl, which is the highest I have obtained. Should I give it to the SVC for proper tuning, or should I keep it this way.
(P.S. I could do with plus 50 mileage and I don't trust the service center personnel. The service is not good. )