This topic has already been discussed a zillion times i guess.
It is all about your personal preference whatever oil you use. Usually altering the recommended grade is not a very safe idea in my view, yet there are a lot of people who have experimented with different oils and grades

Coming on to your query, there is no direct answer for this.
Since, i have used Honda throttle, Motul 7100, Shell advance ultra in my bike.
Below is the summary of my observations-

Honda throttle - fine for normal city use. But after 2k on odo it starts giving up gradually.

Motul 7100(10w40) - a good oil and in my experience easily lasted more than 4k km on odo. This is the most performance oriented kind of oil out of all three. You will immediately realise that engine is more willing to revv but less smoothness compared to shell. Prefer this if you are someone who likes to wring the throttle more often.


Shell advance (10w40) - most praised oil on this forum when it comes to cbr. And truly the smoothest of all but performance is less aggressive as compared to motul. Best option if you ride sedately and want better oil than Honda throttle. Also lasted more than 4k easily.

PS it is shell Advance ultra that you should go for. Shell helix, which you stated is a car engine oil. Avoid it.


Also keep in mind that the recommended grade is 10w30 which is not available with motul and shell so you can go for 10w40 for both of them. As per my knowledge there is no harm in going for 10w40. Cant comment on other grades though.

PAO are the normal full synthetic oils you get. Usually oils are categorized in groups from 1 to 5 with one being the least refined and the five being the best refined with man made additives added or also known as PAG. Now, it's usually an inflated term for a lingo, as it only confuses people. Synthetic and Esters make life easy, isn't it.
Now, to our topic, 10w30 is what Honda recommends, while at the same time if you inspect the manual, the grades go thicker depending on the riding condition, i.e. climate. And for varied indian conditions, 10w30 is the recommended oil as per the recommendation, unless the bike is ridden in a high ambient temperature setting, w40 is recommended. Irrespective if a given oil is PAO or PAG, the right grade and the right drain interval plays a vital role and helps keep the internals healthy.

The shift RPM that you practice is a good RPM range and where the little blade feels happy and peppy. Rapid throttle opening can be opened above 4k RPM as sometimes sudden throttle opening can flood and stall the engine momentarily, gradually open the throttle all the way up to the desired RPM.

Hope you've invested in a proper set of riding gears, helmets, gloves, jackets. Ride safe!

Cheers!
VJ

Ivin, did you check your RR before replacing the stator coil and the battery? Though the SVCs have an extremely lackluster attitude when it comes to inspecting an electrical part, sometimes it can be a faulty RR and oxidation in the pins that might have caused the charging trouble. Now that you've replaced your RR, do check for proper voltage at the terminals of the battery with the engine running at 5000 RPM with high beams on, the battery voltage at the terminal should be 15.5v, and the readouts shouldn't be more than 16 and lesser than 13v at the specified RPM.


Cheers!
VJ

1.how old was the battery ? 25k too early for stator coil to go.
2.once the cone set change is done tighten it a bit like 2mm or so after a few days. it gets loose which is normal however if you leave it like that the play will kill it again shortly.
3. shell ultra 10w-40 works best. tried the new ultra 15w-50 as well but did not like it.

Hello experts, need a small guidance. I know this topic has been discussed a lot here but still I would like to add my personal experience there. Next month I am due for service and need to replace engine oil. After my last service with Honda synthetic oil, the bike was good up to 3k, later I was seeing very black color oil and slightly higher engine noise. Later I have changed the oil with a local garage with motul 20-40 synthetic oil, I didn't get right grade. Later bike was way better than Honda oil, engine was smooth, I can see more torque. With Honda oil, I can use 6th gear only once I reach 59+ speed but with motul around 53+ km speed bike was gaining enough power, I mean no stress to engine. Now it is close to 3.5k on motul, very recently noted a slightly higher engine noise and roughness from engine.

During next service I am planning to change to motul synthetic 10w-40 or I am not sure whether motul has 10-30 synthetic oil. I always read that shell ultra helix will go very good with Cbr but the local car garage, I heard like shell is not doing great these days and I trust those guys.

So what's you suggestion, do I need to stick to 10w-30 grade. With motul 20w-40 grade, I saw like low end torque is higher but bike high speed performance was not good. I mean once I reach 100+, I feel like I have reached very high speed.

My common observation is, bike engine showing roughness once oil reached 3.5k range. So if I am going with Honda, I am planning to collect a seperate bottle so that I can change oil at later point.

How's yours experience with engine oil? Are you using up to 6k range? Is there anyone who still using shell ultra helix? Motul 10-40, will it suit Cbr?

Rapid throttle opening-
You could go from 4k to 6k in 3 seconds by twisting gradually or in 2 seconds by opening rapidly.. What it means to the engine(especially a single) is that if you open rapid from much lower rpm s , you strain everything inside the engine and lot of bad things like incomplete combustion, damage to valve trains,reduced oil supply for that rpm, etc happen.But if you open from a point when the engine is already spinning at some speed, it does not cost anything.I just wanted to know that point from which one could open up..

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Helloo,I too am deciding on this same topic but here are my thoughts,
1. A w40 oil takes more time to heat up and get thin enough to get inside the minute oil galleries , that too in close tight tolerance japanese built engines.
2.A w30 oil will flow more readily and enters the lube pathways quickly. This time-the oil takes to enter inside the most important spots(even though very less) is very crucial especially for riders who dont give a chance for the oil to even flow to the head. Its like shaving without cream.
3. The damage caused due to delayed oil coming to the rescue is a cumulative effect.The parts run dry in high load, and damage caused even for seconds is a damage.
4. I personally let the idle till the engine reaches its ''operating temperature'' and i dont care about the fuel wasted. i have even seen lasting good results.

So i guess w30 is the way.There is a servo 10w30 semi synth, guess i might try it. Pl read replies to my query, hope it helps..
rgds

Dear friends,
1.Is there any alternate oil filter for the CBR 250R?- not the k&N ones, but ones that fits on other indian bikes of similar capacity.
2. Iam planning for an upgrade on the radiator.It is generally thought of as a bigger one, but i plan for an add on radiator of similar size of the existing one with manual selector valves(meaning that you can decide whether to put the 2nd radiator into action or not).

Any thoughts regarding pump capacity,space,fan,elec load, innovative positioning,extra nrv etc are highly appreciated.

So According to you, the 10w40 oil is thicker at startup than the 10w30 and gets thinner when it heats up to operating temperature?

And what about the numerous CBR owners who have used 10w40 oils for 50,000 Kms plus? They don't seem to have the engine damage you claim would happen.

Guys i have 2018 hornet, as you know hornet has an aircooled ratio with high compression ratio approximately equal to cbr, so it gets heat3 pretty quickly, so which oil should i use 10w 30 or 10w 40. Have you guys used tvs 10w 30 synthetic oil, how's it

Give Shell Rimula R4 a shot, a few users here are using it on their Honda's and Kawasaki's. Its is a HDEO engine oil and is not recommended for motorcycle use per say, but ownership experiences say otherwise, plus it makes sense to spend 300/liter on this and change at 2k intervals than to invest a premium on so called Fully Synthetic oils and change at extended intervals which as a matter of fact is counter productive considering that combustion blow by and clutch residue gets mixed with the engine oil.

Is rimula present in amazon

Give Shell Rimula R4 a shot, a few users here are using it on their Honda's and Kawasaki's. Its is a HDEO engine oil and is not recommended for motorcycle use per say, but ownership experiences say otherwise, plus it makes sense to spend 300/liter on this and change at 2k intervals than to invest a premium on so called Fully Synthetic oils and change at extended intervals which as a matter of fact is counter productive considering that combustion blow by and clutch residue gets mixed with the engine oil.