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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
^^^ someone asked my opinion about the big bore setup and whether it's reliable or not. I will place some facts on the table, and leave it up to you to form your opinions:
Facts:
1. I have run a big bore 165cc, revised geometry head, valve springs, free flow exhaust, RD programmable ECU, Simota air filter.
2. I have recorded 0 - 100 kmph run at 9.5 seconds on highly accurate GTech data logger. Stock bikes have been recorded at around 14 seconds.
3. The above setup ran for 15,000 kms before I had a catastrophic ring land failure. Fortunately due to the practice of changing oil every 2,000 kms, we detected aluminum debris in the oil which led us to opening the engine and discovering the issue before I had a completely blown engine on my hands. We have now used this opportunity to strip the engine completely down and blue print it.
4. We never sorted out the fueling of the bike. The fuel maps provided were so rich that they were virtually impossible to run. I never got the support required to sort the issue out. Ultimately I had to resort to reading the plug and making changes to the map. Which is a hit and miss method which will have you constantly making adjustments every few days depending on changes in weather, state of tune. Also the ignition map was too radical and was actually for closed circuit racing.
Point 4 was brought in sharp contrast when I ordered a Micro Fuel controller from AreaP, USA, for my Ninja300 with a custom fuel map for my custom setup. The fuel map loaded was spot on and I have not had to go back to AreaP for any adjustments. Just imagine on one hand here is a company that is 12,000 kms away in a different continent which based on my inputs created a fuel map that is so close to perfect that to get any further improvements I have no choice but to put the bike on a dyno. On the other hand we have someone who is about 1,500 kms in the same country who is not able to give a fuel map which will run properly on a setup that was supplied by him.
For people who want to get into hot rodding, here are a few thoughts to ponder on from someone who has been doing it for 20 years:
1. This is a very expensive hobby. There is a huge element of risks involved out there. Do not get into it if you have a risk averse personality.
2. Expect more failures than success as it's a journey of knowledge and experience.
3. If you want street reliability stick to stock setup. While street reliability is possible, it's very difficult to achieve. This is not a hobby for the faint hearted.
4. Hot rodding invariably leads to higher engine component wear. Expect to replace parts sooner rather than later.
5. Right fueling is the key, without getting a handle on this key parameter all your hardware is just junk.
6. A lot of dubious information floating out there, do your research before you undertake any project.
Hope the above helps people make informed decisions on the subject.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
^^^ someone asked my opinion about the big bore setup and whether it's reliable or not. I will place some facts on the table, and leave it up to you to form your opinions:
Facts:
1. I have run a big bore 165cc, revised geometry head, valve springs, free flow exhaust, RD programmable ECU, Simota air filter.
2. I have recorded 0 - 100 kmph run at 9.5 seconds on highly accurate GTech data logger. Stock bikes have been recorded at around 14 seconds.
3. The above setup ran for 15,000 kms before I had a catastrophic ring land failure. Fortunately due to the practice of changing oil every 2,000 kms, we detected aluminum debris in the oil which led us to opening the engine and discovering the issue before I had a completely blown engine on my hands. We have now used this opportunity to strip the engine completely down and blue print it.
4. We never sorted out the fueling of the bike. The fuel maps provided were so rich that they were virtually impossible to run. I never got the support required to sort the issue out. Ultimately I had to resort to reading the plug and making changes to the map. Which is a hit and miss method which will have you constantly making adjustments every few days depending on changes in weather, state of tune. Also the ignition map was too radical and was actually for closed circuit racing.
Point 4 was brought in sharp contrast when I ordered a Micro Fuel controller from AreaP, USA, for my Ninja300 with a custom fuel map for my custom setup. The fuel map loaded was spot on and I have not had to go back to AreaP for any adjustments. Just imagine on one hand here is a company that is 12,000 kms away in a different continent which based on my inputs created a fuel map that is so close to perfect that to get any further improvements I have no choice but to put the bike on a dyno. On the other hand we have someone who is about 1,500 kms in the same country who is not able to give a fuel map which will run properly on a setup that was supplied by him.
For people who want to get into hot rodding, here are a few thoughts to ponder on from someone who has been doing it for 20 years:
1. This is a very expensive hobby. There is a huge element of risks involved out there. Do not get into it if you have a risk averse personality.
2. Expect more failures than success as it's a journey of knowledge and experience.
3. If you want street reliability stick to stock setup. While street reliability is possible, it's very difficult to achieve. This is not a hobby for the faint hearted.
4. Hot rodding invariably leads to higher engine component wear. Expect to replace parts sooner rather than later.
5. Right fueling is the key, without getting a handle on this key parameter all your hardware is just junk.
6. A lot of dubious information floating out there, do your research before you undertake any project.
Hope the above helps people make informed decisions on the subject.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
will make a Tlog soon and post many pics there.
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