^MY view was only IF all the run-In conditions as per manual is followed. And if one does follow as per manual, then BEST result would be to change oil/oil filter at 1k km.
As you have said there are lot of views/ways about it. Still just my two cents to avoid a misconception that "changing oil at 300km is perfect".

Agree. . Though am sure most of the guys, who did a change before first service are doing it on service as well. If not, please follow.
It is required.

Hey nastro, good to see someone spending so much time in helping unexperienced and new people on the forum .. keep it up..!
just FYI ... they (Yamaha guys) do not replace coolant at first service. I had the first service done for my babe in front of my eyes. They absolutely did nothing on the coolant part.
They just checked the coolant level and dint even top it up(may be it was not necesaary.!)

Changing oil at 300 isn't perfect.. Its just that it isn't bad. Although the oil can sustain the first 1000 kms w/o any prob (Oil filter does its work here), its just that if we can use fresher oil, why not. Just for psychological effect that those metal puppies ain't disturbing the Lion thats working inside the Den..
Even if they are there, it doesn't harm.

Yeah, I hope everybody does. Its just that, even if you have changed oil earlier, say even at 600 kms, its recommended to change it during first service. Atleast for warranty.

Well actually the first few hundreds of KM cause the most of the shedding in of sharpnels... Oil filters are not designed to take care of hot-moving-sharpnels... its designed to take care of residue... Its only advisable that you change the oil+filter in the first few hundred KMs.
Remember Oil+Filter is cheaper than a scored engine!

You follow every ownership thread, is it...???

he owns/owned most of them so ----

Anyways, most people have their own theory of oil-changing intervals during run-in. I myself followed a modified motoman technique during run-in.

And whatever said and done, most advices and techniques that people put here in xbhp are not concrete rules on how to run-in a bike. Do what you think is right and move on (either early oil change or company manual recommended). And sometimes, people don't realize that today's engineering tolerances and liquid cooled engines are far better capable of achieving a better piston-ring/cylinder wall sealing, compared to previous era of air-cooled engines.

To all new owners confused on how to run-in your new engine:
DO's:
-Warm up the engine every morning before the ride, by idling for about 2-3 minutes (applies even after run-in)
-Maintain and stick to RPM limits throughout the run-in period.
-Gradual acceleration always. Sudden burst of acceleration is okay now and then, provided the engine is warm.
-Gradual deceleration always. Use engine braking during deceleration. Proven to bring better piston-ring/cylinder wall sealing.
-Vary speed and gears all the time. City street riding is most best for running-in an engine, than highways straights and monotonous speeds.
-Switching off the engine everytime after about 15-20 minutes of riding. Engine tends to heat up more because of new metal parts shaving and sealing.
-Follow oil change as what you may have decided.

DONT's:
-Never redline during run-in.
-Never cross the RPM limit what you may follow during run-in.
-Never lug the engine. NEVER !
-Never ride in long straights for prolonged periods at same speed (highways i mean).
-Never do pillion riding during the initial run-in period. Adds more stress to the engine.
-Never idle the engine for prolonged periods.
-Never kill the engine by switching the ignition off. Always use engine kill switch. Sometimes, the radiator might kick-in to cool down the engine if the system thinks that the engine is hot.
-Never do stunts like a wheelie or stoppie or burn-out during run-in.

Remember to wear your safety gear. You are not warranty-replaceable. Ride safe.

+1
And he indeed owns a major stake of those threads you see. Including the ones out n out about the R15.


Hey Satyenbhaiya, what's your current ride? Something i've been wondering lately..

Shukriya, had checked it up with the Yamaha chief here, would re confirm.


well, he said it.

Perfect. Thanks for summarizing, people can now use this link for any run-in queries.

You aren't aware, its the spark. <Ninja 650>

Are you sure it was twenty days and it has reduced now?? because when one of my friends found out about the waiting period at narayanguda showroom they said it was 60 days.. hope it is less than 20 days..

can R15 V2 be used for touring?.. Can someone share their experience whether it suits the long rides like 300 - 500 kms.. I have booked R15 v2 a month back.. i would be using it for both city riding and touring...

Well i sense a flavor of sarcasm here!
And if you read again what i have said you will find that even i have stressed the same point! when old machines are still new when followed as per manual then newer generation should do better. And it was just my view.
Please read before posting.

Peace.
Deepak.

ask your friend to find out at somajiguda--- black color(be specific) waiting period.

LOL..! Need to mention you that i never read your post in the first place. What made me write that up has got nothing to do with your post. The last few pages of this thread was cluttered with facts & mistakes, so i thought i will straighten things by contributing my best knowledge about running-in. And since you and I have mention and stressed the same point, where exactly is the sarcasm...??

And the quoted bold part in your post is just a plain fact. You know it.