Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
Collapse
X
-
i use the trip meter to measure fuel efficiency too.. by the way any idea why there are two trip meters? and what could be the possible use of both of them?Originally posted by ABikerAtHeart View PostNow that's a lot of head-breaking.
If you anyway are filling to the brim then why not simply use the tank to tank method.
Fill a tank full - note the litres of fuel filled 'X'.
Start Trip 2
The moment it hits reserve note the reading of Trip 2 'Y'.
Calculation;
The Trip 2 reading Y divided by
(Litres of fueled filled X - 1.9 lit of reserve fuel).
y/(x-1.9) = current mileage.
_._._._
Comment
-
So what oil should be added at the first service? semi-synthetic?? and also which oil to be added on the first oil change at 500 kms?Originally posted by ABikerAtHeart View PostEarlier I had reported an issue with the clutch not settling 100% back to its free position. Apparently its was the issue with the tightening screw connecting the cable to the lever. It took 3 seconds for the mechanic to resolve it. There are no-jerks now and the throttle response (I have no idea how) has many fold times increased. Feels like the bike will pop a wheelie any second. The guy Mr Ajay expained some important stuff about the whole handling and stuff about the servicing as well.
R15v2 comes with SS pre-installed and its strictly advised you DONT insist on adding MINERAL OIL at 1st service. An oil change is advised at 500km, not 50 or 200 or whatever. These oils, he said, are very very efficient. And its better if people go by the book.
Overall a good experience with the folks at the station but it turned out the whole team was from Mumbai (and not my city) and dedicated to servicing R1s. They had come to collect some spare's stock . Mumbikers are sure lucky they got some efficient mechanics handling their bikes.
Comment
-
bro return it and ask for your real manual. it happens in the hurry of your dealer.Originally posted by shadab007 View Post
This is what i got from the showroom with my R15 V2.0

I noticed one thing that checking of coolant level is missing...
As this is not for the R15. what should i do now?
Should i change it with original R15 manual or not?
Please help me ... n If possible please post the cover-page of r15 v2.0's Service & Warranty manual...
Thanks ...
bro have you ever been on touring on you girl. when you tour or you are at track the dual trip is every necessarily needed thing, you will learn it use by experience!Originally posted by kreygor View PostI use the trip meter too for measuring fuel economy.. By the way theres two trip meters given, what could be the possible use for the two of them?
after each reset of trips it starts functioning no need to start it. you just need to reset it according to convince.Originally posted by kreygor View Posti use the trip meter to measure fuel efficiency too.. by the way any idea why there are two trip meters? and what could be the possible use of both of them?
bro since R15 is performance bike never ever think about the mineral oil. it will affect badly on our engine and result in piston sizing, change the oil as its referred in on the manual!Originally posted by rahul_pranay View PostSo what oil should be added at the first service? semi-synthetic?? and also which oil to be added on the first oil change at 500 kms?Regards,
Sachin Satheesh
xBhp Pathanamthitta
Guys if you like to make your hands dirty and make your ladies rule the road. Then this Face book group will be the place you would be looking for:
Do It Yourselves; An arena for trial and error!
check it out bros!
sigpic
Comment
-
R15 comes with semi-synthetic oil and all further oil changes should be semi-synthetic only (of course one can upgrade to fully synthetic after 5000kms) be it at first 150 or 500 kms or first service..Switching to a lower grade at any point of time is not a good thing..Originally posted by rahul_pranay View PostSo what oil should be added at the first service? semi-synthetic?? and also which oil to be added on the first oil change at 500 kms?Solo ride to Ladakh - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...ia-ladakh.html
Comment
-
Guys if you like to make your hands dirty and make your ladies rule the road. Then this Face book group will be the place you would be looking for:
DIY:- Do it Yourselves! This is the place where we enthusiastic bikers who love our machines and keep them in highest mechanical level, and make our hands dirty to earn it!
Do It Yourselves; An arena for trial and error!
check it out bros!Regards,
Sachin Satheesh
xBhp Pathanamthitta
Guys if you like to make your hands dirty and make your ladies rule the road. Then this Face book group will be the place you would be looking for:
Do It Yourselves; An arena for trial and error!
check it out bros!
sigpic
Comment
-
Originally posted by shreyassave View PostAs soon as your bike hits reserve, The Fuel bar starts blinking, also another trip meter comes to display reading "- F" denoting the no. on kms you have ridden after the bike has hit reserve. It goes after filling petrol and riding for 5+ kms!
What I follow is the same procedure mentioned some posts ago.
As soon as the bike hits reserve, I reset the trip 2 meter. (Also you can check the ODO)
Fill in some amount of fuel, say Rs. 500- 600, note the quantity. As soon as it hits the reserve, i.e -F coming on display, check the reading on trip 2.
So- Trip 2 (kms)/ Quantity = Approximate average!
During Run-in, got around 42 kmpl. (whenever calculated)
Post Run-in, keeping in 6K + range, got some 37+ kmpl.
But, there's a confusion regarding the Total petrol filled till date - Reserve 2 lit. and the No. of kms ridden. Something weird. Getting around 35+ kmpl.
Does the bike hit reserve at the same point (amount of petrol remaining in tank).I Tried full-tank method, when I say full it was literally full - may be fuel level was almost touching the fuel-tank lid (Shell Fuel)...The bike gave me about 558kms..Originally posted by ABikerAtHeart View PostNow that's a lot of head-breaking.
If you anyway are filling to the brim then why not simply use the tank to tank method.
Fill a tank full - note the litres of fuel filled 'X'.
Start Trip 2
The moment it hits reserve note the reading of Trip 2 'Y'.
Calculation;
The Trip 2 reading Y divided by
(Litres of fueled filled X - 1.9 lit of reserve fuel).
y/(x-1.9) = current mileage.
_._._._
The bike is still in run-in period ~1600 on ODO.. I have been riding on average speed so far.. may be as I cross 7.5 rpm after run-in the mileage may gradually drop.. I will be happy if my bike gives anything above 35kms in future..
Last edited by Daytona; 03-31-2012, 04:25 AM.A good rider is one who looks at both side of the road, even on One way!
Yamaha One Make Ride on 29April2012 | Bangalore Chapter
Comment
-
Originally posted by maverick.najju View PostR15 comes with semi-synthetic oil and all further oil changes should be semi-synthetic only (of course one can upgrade to fully synthetic after 5000kms) be it at first 150 or 500 kms or first service..Switching to a lower grade at any point of time is not a good thing..
I completely agree..!
Earlier discussions on this forum recommended to use regular oil (I wasn't sure if they meant Semi-Synthetic as regular) during run-in period, they suggested to change the oil very often i.e. after every 500kms..
When I took my bike for first service the service-supervisor advised me to go for fully Synthetic oil, but I didn't agree and asked him to use the regular one...At Yamaha Service centers (Bangalore), Semi-Synthetic is considered as regular oil...
I would be switching to fully Synthetic after run-in period... have done two services so far and the bike engine is getting better-n-butter after every time the Oil changed...
Please don't go with any other regular-oil, make sure if its Yamaha recommended/Semi-Synthetic...
Cheers..!A good rider is one who looks at both side of the road, even on One way!
Yamaha One Make Ride on 29April2012 | Bangalore Chapter
Comment
-
Originally posted by maverick.najju View PostR15 comes with semi-synthetic oil and all further oil changes should be semi-synthetic only (of course one can upgrade to fully synthetic after 5000kms) be it at first 150 or 500 kms or first service..Switching to a lower grade at any point of time is not a good thing..Originally posted by RideAlone View PostThe journey with my new bike started 3 months ago and still going on smoothly. I am pushing her 125+ and no complains yet. Excellent handling and mileage.
The only bad thing happened is that somebody tried to peel off the Yamaha Logo from the tank. This has left a few scratches on the tank
I experienced the same thing with FZ, someone pealed Yamaha logo's within no matter of time.. also this happened with my Ex-Pulsar, the Bajaj rubber-cap in center of handle bar was whacked..
"Its seems People who does this, sell the (at ridiculous price, may Rs.5/10) to local vendors for recycling..may be these are re-sold at outskirts/villages" --- Myth's, not sure how best its true..!
But who ever does this, I yell "F**K U Dumb Ass"...
sometime you wont get the original finishing of stickering..
I think you get the new pair of these for about Rs.150/-..A good rider is one who looks at both side of the road, even on One way!
Yamaha One Make Ride on 29April2012 | Bangalore Chapter
Comment
-
@kreygor, rahul, zakisback..
R15 comes with semi-synthetic from the factory..
Changing to mineral will NOT have an adverse effect on the engine.
Changing the engine oil only at 1000 and not before that will NOT have an adverse effect on the engine.
kwacker aka Praveen Kumar, filled mineral at 1000 odo and had the oil filter changed at 3000km odo (the service guy forgot to change it at 1st service). He fills normal petrol at any random bunk and his bike is returning 36kmpl on ripping. 40kmpl on normal riding.
mysteryno46 aka Anuj changed to SS oil+oil filter at 1k and he rips his bike everytime he saddles it. 32kmpl his average.
Also, its necessary that you increase your revving with kms on the odo.
5k upto 500km
7.5k upto 1000km
Red line thereafter.
The 2 trip meter come handy while touring.
Trip 1 for the total distance travelled for the whole journey.
Trip 2 for the distance travelled between either two places or distance travelled the whole day.
Now a quick question, how many of you got a teflon coat and how much did you pay for it?__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______
Viaterra Rapide - A Comprehensive Product Overview
The Art Of Cornering - lots and lots of knee down pics
Originally posted by Prakash SolankiBikes or girls, always ride with protection.
Facebook
Comment
-
Thanks 4 d immense help.Originally posted by DrVENOM View Post-For the first problem, i believe lack of lubricant in chain is the culprit. Two things how this could have happened. Either the SVC people forgot to lube the chain. Or did a water wash of the bike, when the chain was already lubed, where-in the water wash could have washed away sufficient amount of chain lube with it. Always make sure that this mistake is not done by SVC guys. My advice to all owners is clean and lube the chain yourself, it so easy and cheap that way.
-For the second problem, A new bike in its initial few kms (read even till 2k km) tends to heat up significantly. Thats not an issue. And for my own inference, the radiator fan kicks out more air through the right fairing than the left fairing. This explains why the right fairing gets more heated up. And if you had been noticing all this when the bike was on side-stand, then its self-explanatory because hot air tends to travel up. As long as the engine-temp gauge in the console doesn't light up. Its all fine.
@ TO ALL OWNERS- No car or bike manufacturer, to my knowledge, recommends to change the coolant during the first service. Coolant is freshly topped up during the Pre-Delivery Inspection time. And that makes the coolant only one month old during first service. And life-span of coolant is 12-24 months depending on its chemical nature and riding conditions. I am sure Yamaha doesn't recommend coolant change during first service, though i haven't looked up the manual. Coolant top-up is all that might be necessary during first service, if at all. Stop getting ripped.
@ ALL- Do not quote all the pics posted by other owners in your post, not only it clutters the thread with same pics, but also makes it tough for browsing with mobile phone.
And hats off for your thinking and visualizing power...d right side heating up explanation...although its not d case...but I liked your attacking of d problem methodology.
Lubricant ... I got a motul... 400ml or so for 450 rs...not sure wht is d right price...it showed 510 as d mrp.
One question is ...is d coolant distributed on 2 chambers....left and right...?
And right one is having less of it...so heating up considerably...
Just guessing.
Also in my earlier post...I meant coolant topup by service guys .
Thanks.
Comment
-
A more logical way of using 2 trip meters for city users.Originally posted by kreygor View PostI use the trip meter too for measuring fuel economy.. By the way theres two trip meters given, what could be the possible use for the two of them?
FIRST for service interval, noting how many kms its been since last service. SECOND for noting mileage since last tank-up.
Recommending people to stick to factory recommendation and semi-synth is fine. But saying that mineral oil can cause piston-sizing, HILARIOUS. In all probabilities, a slightly rougher and harder to rev engine is the only end result with mineral oil. Running low on oil levels, now that is the only reason why you can have seize. Mineral/semi-synth/full-synth are all fine for the engine, provided you are aware of the short comings with each grade.Originally posted by zakisback View Postbro since R15 is performance bike never ever think about the mineral oil. it will affect badly on our engine and result in piston sizing, change the oil as its referred in on the manual!
Again, my point stays.Originally posted by maverick.najju View PostR15 comes with semi-synthetic oil and all further oil changes should be semi-synthetic only (of course one can upgrade to fully synthetic after 5000kms) be it at first 150 or 500 kms or first service..Switching to a lower grade at any point of time is not a good thing..
Semi-synth is factory filled alright. Recommended too. Good that you didnt opt for full-synth. Also consider switching to Full-synth when you odo is about 5000km. Post run-in (1000km as said by Yamaha) is too quick for the engine to take full-synth. Know the consequences and then proceed.Originally posted by Daytona View PostWhen I took my bike for first service the service-supervisor advised me to go for fully Synthetic oil, but I didn't agree and asked him to use the regular one...At Yamaha Service centers (Bangalore), Semi-Synthetic is considered as regular oil...
I would be switching to fully Synthetic after run-in period... have done two services so far and the bike engine is getting better-n-butter after every time the Oil changed...
Please don't go with any other regular-oil, make sure if its Yamaha recommended/Semi-Synthetic...
Originally posted by ABikerAtHeart View PostChanging to mineral will NOT have an adverse effect on the engine.
Changing the engine oil only at 1000 and not before that will NOT have an adverse effect on the engine.
TRUE.
kwacker aka Praveen Kumar, filled mineral at 1000 odo and had the oil filter changed at 3000km odo (the service guy forgot to change it at 1st service).
BAD. Grade changes of oil should always be accompanied with filter change. New grade oil with old grade oil filter dont mix up well.
Also, its necessary that you increase your revving with kms on the odo.
5k upto 500km
7.5k upto 1000km
Red line thereafter.
TRUE. VERY TRUE.
The 2 trip meter come handy while touring.
Another addition to the city use, to whoever asked about its use.
Now a quick question, how many of you got a teflon coat and how much did you pay for it?
The company people are a bunch of frauds. Sometimes they just wax-up the bike and claim that they have teflon coated it. Make sure you dont get ripped. I didnt get mine, nor have an idea how much it is. I was offered one for free by the dealer.NO.Originally posted by swapnillife View PostOne question is ...is d coolant distributed on 2 chambers....left and right...?
What is your odo reading now ?
Comment
-
Hi guys,
I got my V2.0 7th of march and completed 200kms in oddo. I am planning a 600km trip by end of april. Still i've not completed the first service. planning a small road trip to break inn before going to 600km trip.
Kindly give some suggestions about taking the bike very early for long trips. And also suggest me tubeless tyre puncture kit availability and price in chennai.
cheers.
awaiting for the replies.
Comment
-
FB page for R15 V2 owners.
Like it says, a dedicated V2 owners FB group. Fellow owners are welcome to join and share. The purpose of it.
Log In | Facebook
PS- Mods can remove/delete if found inappropriate.
Comment
-
Originally posted by ABikerAtHeart View PostYes. Go to the dealer. Tell him politely what has happened. If he refuses to swap the manuals or gives some lame excuse, tighten up your sleeves.
thanks bro...Originally posted by zakisback View Postbro return it and ask for your real manual. it happens in the hurry of your dealer.
i changed it with the original one,
at first they were not ready to change the manual then i told them that i am going to call the owner of the showroom so that i can tell him about this
,
they changed it within 2 mins
.
I have seen the showroom owner is very helpful but
but the showroom workers are not customer friendly.
Yamaha recommended oil (Semi-Synthetic) http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/members/...sae-15w-50.jpg
Yamaha racing Tank Protector http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/members/...4-tank-pad.jpg
Tank Protector Part No. and price http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/members/...ad-part-no.jpg
Comment



Comment