yes saar... Now it makes sense Nice explanation there...
Duke= love me or hate me but you cant ignore me...

Hi Duke owners,

Can anyone please guide me towards the link or the post in which the re-orientation of the front number plate was done below the head lamp ?

cbr takes a lot of time to go from 140-150 .. btw , cbr does a true top speed of around 150 but its of no use in india .. duke is for people looking for 0-60 and 0-100 .. street biking monster it is .. even after buying a cbr , how often would you get to reach 150 ?....
roll on acceleration matters the most in city and it definitely cant beat duke in that ..

Reuploading what Yogesh Naik had uploaded on the FB group

Mileage / FE / Fuel Economy Check

Mileage / FE / Fuel Economy Check

245.6 kms at 6.93 ltrs = 35.44 kmpl ....


While filling air the attendant asked how much mileage I get, told him 35 - 40kmpl... some other Duke owner has told him that he gets 17kmpl it seems... I was like then realized that probably he was ripping / redlining all the time...

I had an opportunity to ride Rishi's Duke for some kms today... Felt that his engine was smoother and more refined than mine... also his gear shifts were smoother... He felt that his bike has lost some power ... I felt that probably the engine was smoother and more controlled... My engine braking seems to be on the higher end.... like when I take my hands off the throttle, I feel as if it slows down drastically .. kind of jerks .. anyways, gotten used to riding it that way.. Hope this is not an issue...

All about oil

I'm not going to repost the entire page I found here, but this page:
All About Motor Oil
is an incredibly detailed, informative page on oils specifically for motorcycle use. The only area it is sparse on is the JASO standard, which apparently has very little to do with motorcycle suitability whatever they may say. The only possible issue is whether or not the JASO MA standard includes the presence of actual friction additives intended for compatibility with wet clutches.
I will say that, despite the info on that page, I will still use a straight mineral oil for my break-in period (a lot of my engine experience involves engines built before 1980), but it doesn't matter so much as I thought. Also, if you can stand the price, apparently the best oils to use are the ones intended for the big diesels, as they have much more stable, long-lived lubricant and detergent packages. Semi-synthetic is apparently not only a waste of time, but a rip-off as well. Don't bother.
NB the brands listed are probably going to be unfamiliar, and he doesn't really mention the hot-weather oils like 20W40 and 20W50, since the page is from the US, but it shouldn't be difficult to translate the information to oils available in India.

Actually, CBR250R with its gear ratios and tyre size reaches 136 kmh while Duke reaches 106 at 8500 RPM. A drag race after taking a term assurance LIC policy (premium for 50 lakh Amulya Jeevan plan for the 20-25 age group is below Rs. 5625/-, half yearly) will prove which bike reaches that speed earlier.

Yup, Duke 200 is a high revving bike with peak power at a higher RPM, dats why the difference in the gear ratio and tyres in accordance with the power delivery.

And from the Amulya LIC policy idea.............it can be comprehended that Punarvasu hasn't changed a bit

Thanks Bplus !!!

I was interested only in the oil part. Winter in my area is quite cold, around 7 degree avg. I will want to opt for winter oil, i.e. 15w40/10w40 i guess, when its winter. This is something that i am new to and i want to know whats engine oils are all about and should i change to a different oil unspecified by the manufacturer for some kind of "well being" of the engine. I quoted that paragraph coz i didn't want to post the whole thing and unfortunately i quoted the part that was "strange and difficult to comprehend".

I would not agree to your first point, that said the cost of the oil is insignificant to the cost of the bike. Priorities of a person getting a bike worth 13 thousand are different from that of a person getting a bike worth 1.3 lakh. The former will look for the cheapest oil that will not give any problems, the latter will look for the best oil, suited for his budget and 13 lakh bike owner will get the best oil, most probably regardless of the budget. This is a bit OT...

the right numerical should be 50,or greater than 50. I think its a typo..

I have not researched enough to comment on the available oil that meets the specifications and would be ideal for pepole who own a Duke in cold part of the country.Please check the first post on this Duke ownership thread.I am reposting this for your reference though all of it might not be relevant to your querie

A. The recommended engine oil is Bajaj DTS-i 10,000 or Motul 7100 20W50.
B. Motul 300v Factory line double ester 15W50, though not recommended my the manufacturer would be more suitable if you live in a place which has a generally cool climate throughout the year.
C. The stock engine oil,Bajaj DTS-i 10,000 is a semi synthetic oil.It is usually recommended to change to fully synthetic oil (like the Motul 7100/Motul 300V) at 5000KM.However,people who
had changed to fully synthetic oil during their first service (1000 Km) had only good things to say.
D. The specification of the engine oil to be used is SAE 20W50 API SG/SL JASO MA,MA1.
E. The engine oil capacity is 1.4 liters.
F. The engine oil level must be between the lower and upper edge of the oil level viewer window when the motorcycle is held upright on a horizontal surface.
G. Replacing the oil filter every time the oil is changed is highly recommended.
H. Like the engine coolant,never mix two different engine oil.
I. Cold engine oil will not drain properly, so before you start changing the engine oil, drive your bike around to raise the oil temperature to bring it to normal operating temperature.Then switch off the engine and remove the oil drain plug.Be prepared for the potentially hot flow of oil as you unscrew the drain plug.
J. Never use a engine oil meant for a car on a motorcycle.
K . Be aware that there are fake engine oil out there.Always buy from a authorized distributor.

Some other facts:

Below is the break down of the engine oil specifications as recommended by KTM
SAE 20W50 API SG/SL JASO MA,MA1

SAE - It stands for Society of Automotive Engineers.They have created a standard for identifying the viscosity characteristics of engine oil and have a reading such as 2oW-50,15W-50 ..etc

20W-50 - The number 20 before the 'W'(W = Winter) indicates the low temperature viscosity properties while the 50 indicator of the high temperature or operating viscosity properties.Lesser the value of the number before the W would mean thinner or less viscous the oil would be and is recommended for places that have cold climate almost throughout the year.

API – American Petroleum Institute

SG/SL - The 'S' as in SG/SL is meant is a motorcycle with petrol engine.SG and SL are standards as per API.

JASO – The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization.

MA,MA1 – Grade for Wet Clutch type vehicles.MA,MA1 or MA2 means you are guaranteed that the clutch won't slip.JASO split their JASO-MA standard into JASO-MA1 and JASO-MA2. MA1 is the follow on for bikes that call for JASO-MA oils.The 'M' and 'A' as in MA stand for -
M - Motorcycle Application,A - For engines which share their oils with clutch.

As KTM has specified a API rating of SG/SL and a JASO rating of MA,MA1 ,use only motor oils that satisfy both of the standards listed (the packaging for the oil will carry symbols for both if it meets both standards). Do not use an oil that only meets one standard but not the other.

i have used motul 3100 20w50 mineral oil during first service .. many people earlier told to go for synthetic oil only after 5000kms as it would slow up the run-in process ..
i will change the oil once again at around 3500kms as the second service is at 6000kms ..
is it fine ?

Thank you so much for your time. I had read that post. I've read the entire thread, but i cannot remember every precise detail, i wish i could

@vidy: thats why the error (my brain is too busy thinking of accounts exams.. )

So i guess it boils down to this. Use 15w50 coz its better for my weather conditions, use 20w50 if i don't want to void my warranty. Thats F'ed up for me hahahah.... So i guess i have a new question. When do you think the warranty is most likely to be used? run-in period? till 5000 kms?

I have done 2100 kms on the odo. And i went to the svc regarding my previous problem and this is what i experienced:
Cleaned air filter, spark plug and lubricated chain. I was unable to convince the person to change the oil and clean the fi. He asked me to come back when i do 3000 kms, as i would be wasting my money if i did it so soon after the first servicing. He seemed to have more experience so i really din't want to question his judgement. And i talk to him about other stuff and offer him cigarettes, so i don't think he would cheat me/get lazy either.
Improvements: slightly crispier exhaust note(probably due to the clean air filter), if i lost 100% acceleration after the incident i recovered around 30%. I've been using bajaj 10000 SS oil, could it be premature wear?? (please refer to my post regarding unintentional rash driving and its consequences.. Haha )

Next servicing will be after 900 kms on my odo. And then i will be able to tell the difference in acceleration, in approximates. Immediately after that, i will be installing a green air filter and a free flow exhaust - which i plan to purchase in delhi. Any decent performance enhancing affordable ones? I desire it for sound 40%, looks 20%, performance 40% And it needs to have a db killer. Affordable to me means ~ 10000 rupees. I will be importing a GPR exhaust later. Within this week im aiming for - custom front number plate mount, smoked headlight, bar end mirrors. If anyone thinks these modifications are trash or there are other variables/alternatives please let me know. I accept criticism..

Using a 15w50 will not void your warranty as long as it meets or exceeds the manufacturers specification of oil to be used.There are about 6 guys I know who are using 300V and have no problems.It would be best not to do anything to the bike till the warranty period is valid, the bad things always happen when least expected.I have saved about 3500 rs just because of the warranty in the last 4 months.I am also hopping that my rusted suspension also gets replaced soon under warranty soon

This was a pic posted on the official Motul FB page with the recommended oil for the Duke.Guys did you notice the Duke 350 !!!