Holding the clutch and braking is a very bad practice. Holding the clutch increases the chances of rear tire lockup.
Always use engine braking.

There's a tilt sensor in bike which gets activated when the bike falls or is lying flat. It wont allow the engine to start as the bike may be damaged. Thus it should check all things (which happens when one starts the bike) before starting the engine.

But in Panic Braking ? how much time you have to use Engine Braking ? in normal scenario it's very bad habbit I agreed but, if he didnt use Clutch nor engine brakin then bike will STALL....Engine OFF!

Not during panic braking. For one thing, the rear tire is likely to be nearly if not fully off the ground in that situation, so you get no deceleration benefit from that anyway, and when you finally do stop, the rear tire will still be under power and will cause the bike to launch out from under you unpredictably. Second, most of your braking should be done with the front brake, with only small contribution from the rear if any, so even if the back tire stays on the ground, you shouldn't be stomping the pedal for the rear brake anyway. Third, in an emergency braking situation, the most desired outcome is usually a full stop, and in that sitution, unless there is going to be a significant amount of direction change (which would be unusual for that situation), locking the rear wheel is not an issue, since it will not do anything but slide.

Motorcycle safety courses teach that if the rear locks up, you generally want to come to a full stop anyway, since letting the rear regain traction can result in a high-side crash unless the bike is pointed perfectly straight ahead.

bro thats the clutch bell sound it generally comes in all bikes u press the clutch n it goes u leave it comes back its the loudest in ducatis

I never heard that sound so distinctively on my earlier Pulsar 150.

Same here bro i am 6ft 1 and i'm comfortable

thanks for the input guys. I did use the front brake(i use the front brake often, back one is used only in certain areas). I managed to drop a gear while braking at that time. Clutch was used just to avoid the engine from stalling and rear locking up. I'm glad that my sub-conscious mind thought of clutch-in at that moment :P . Usually i dont use the clutch unnecessarily.

Overall thanks guys.
About the dogs, they ran off in the bushes & shrubs.

Hi Mohan,

Hope you are enjoying the duke. I am having the duke since april '12. I had issues of coolant leak, which i rectified myself , Other than that, no issues. ECU was flashed even though i had no issues of stalling. Have done around 3.6K till date. I dont rip and hence feel that bike smoother than other dukes.

It seems you are a startrek fan from your profile picture.

I want to change oil in my duke.Thing is, bajaj semisynthetic oil doesnt last more than 1-1.5k and motul is expensive because my running between drain intervals is just 2-2.5k kms. suggest me some oil with specs (20w50,api sg, jaso ma1/ma2).Mineral/semisynthetic/synthetic doesnt matter.Should be available in mumbai.Thanks.
Doga, your research should help here.

My 'research' and experience says that Motul 3100 4T 20W50 is a very good oil . It's semisynthetic but performance wise at par with the costlier 7100.Infact it meets MA2(which is the latest and I assume higher spec) unlike the 7100. The drain interval is if course lesser , but expect it to be 3000 Km at least. Price is Rs 350 odd here in navi Mumbai for 1L. So you'd need two this time, but next time only 1.

Thanks That helped. So K&N s are bad allowing more dirt through them when they are dirty. Now i think that airflow capacity of K&Ns is more than paper type filters and paper type filters have good filtration capacity than K&Ns....so buying a k&n one has to compromise with dirt getting in to the cylinder and paper ones filter dirt nicely but flow rate is marginally lower than k&n. Its hard to go for one of these. Though im currently sticking on to paper air filter but im thinking if the k&n could be oiled and serviced regularly at quick intervals to avoid the dirt problem and keep the postive aspect of k&n high airflow rate intact. Although replacing paper filter at 5k kms as intervals is cheap and good than buying an expensive k&n . I think.
And yess i agree on d fact that oil impregnated cotton k&n flows bad when its dirty as the dirt sticks on to the cotton guaze fibre oil thereby making deposits of dirt and inturn creating a clear channel for dirt to pass through it to engine. So why the people go for K&Ns so much??
Also apart from stock paper filter KTM provides can i get any other aftermarket performance paper filters??

Hi,

I am expected to get the delivery tomorrow.
What are the checks I need to during the time of delivery?
Is it ok to use normal petrol from day one?

Hi,

My RPM Keeps Fluctuating when in neutral, between 1k-1.5k ,is it normal?
Please help.

Any other way? coz i almost end up oiling the chain in the middle of the night .

I used to put the side stand on, Slot into 1st gear, lift the rear with one hand, leave the clutch and spray the lube on to the chain on my R15.

With duke thats not possible coz the engine dies the very moment i engage the gear when on side stand. guess i'll have to buy a paddock stand coz its taking me more time just to oil the chain


3100 4T is mineral oil. 5100 is semi syn. Its priced around 400-500rs a can as far as i can remember.