happy to see the many technical posts in this thread after some time....Now it feels like the Fiero thread...

Thanks bro and let me reiterate it once again it was a bolt on job basically because of the provision already made by the suzuki engine designers with their foresight to keep upgrades as an option for future models based on the same engine.Like what we're seeing happening with the RTR's.So this modification is not really a big deal at all and it's been done before too.
Regarding starting of a thread dedicated to it,no thanks please. Here in this thread i know you guys well and we all can discuss the matters to sort out things,but if someone does this modification on some other bike and there's a good chance that it will fry up the engine-head.Then there will be a good chance of them running after me for entirely different reasons. So it's better that i try this out here in bangalore where there are good technical folks around.
So your girl's getting a serious make-over?
It's better that this technical matter stays here itself.Let me find out how things work first on my ride.

which is why i said the thread now feels like " THE FIERO THREAD"..this thread is unique and a learning ground for far greater achievements.

Gix buddy, i am still waiting for the pics...

and yes, finally the thread is moving....

Sure buddy,pics will come.Right now there's a leak from near the banjo bolt of one side and once it gets a bigger aluminium ,or copper washer.I'll wash the bike as it's rained the last couple of days and take pics of it.

@All
The mech had over-torqued the banjo bolt and that was the reason for the oil leak,as it has ruined the threads of the double banjo i had gotten done.So in the evening when i started the bike it started leaking oil and when i tried to tighten the bolt it just kept on turning.So i removed the banjo unions of the oil cooler, and installed the stock single banjo bolt along with the std crank case oil-cooler provision bolt.So now the bike's stock in that aspect.This incident at least gave me a chance to test how simple a job it's to disconnect the oil cooler ,if in case a oil hose,or a oil cooler problem develops when touring.All it needs is to fit the stock bolt to the external oil line and close the oil cooler provision with the stock bolt at the crank case.Then of course top-up the oil.

Abhi was here to give me the 8 size allen key from the mech which i had asked for,as the banjo bolt custom made for the oil-cooler provision at the crank case is a allen head bolt(stock is standard) and i saw his bike with the disc brake fitted.The set-up is as good as new and even the brake pads seem new enough.

I think if you had used Soft aluminum or, fiber washer then the crushing with higher torque of tightening would have been taken care of..and the banjo bolt thread would have survived....anyhow it is good to see the easy fix alternative...
Happy to know Abhi has got a good disc setup ... now all that Abhi needs is Sav...eerrr an adequate pillion to test the brakes under full load.

You know what?i have been telling him to name his bike by stickering her name on it!! Yes the money invested on the disc brake set-up will be recovered if it does its job when a Savitha babhi or her replacement is the pillion. He should wait a few more days at least till the pads develop enough bite!!

I am hoping that at least the clutch cover's threads are fine.I've fitted the stock banjo bolt and it tightened up.So let's see.The bugger had installed the crush aluminium washers!!,it's a obsession of mechs i think!! to over torque every damn bolt that they could lay their dirty hands on!!

Sad to hear that.
But did you get the bolts made from the lathe guy or you bought them altogether?
I got the compression tester nozzle made from lathe guys, as the stock nozzle was meant for 2 strokes, on the first ever day the threads of the nozzle gave up, though the quality of the material was very good.

It saved the threads of the plug holder though, otherwise i would have needed a new cylinder head.

It was a risk i was willing to take, atleast would have gone for the rtr 180's head if that would have happened

Anyways, i hope things get well soon and can't wait for the damm pics....

Gixer Bro... My babe is fine ... I had managed to get a front fender (Suzuki Fiero)... well now it rattles louder than a rattle snake and this morning while I was riding through a gravel road it just broke. Not completely but only a section is still hanging on. I guess I need to change one badly. You had said something about Discover (First lot) and Chroma or Caliber or Platinum fenders fitting properly. Now, my choice is not a Suzuki cheap fake that breaks in two months but something orignial with stronger fiber plastics. So what do you think I should go for?
Well the burning question of the mechs is how do we fit the brace. As far as they are concerned, Fiero brace has four screw bolts that tighten the brace with the fender. Discover does not have holes for the bolts. How do we go about doing that? and will the brace be a direct fit on any other bike fenders?

Thanks bro... I need the answer soon as you know that fender sounds and looks ugly just hanging to my babe's front wheel.

I have a lot to go through in this forum and just skimming through, I find that there were days of sleepy times too!!!

@All

Sorry for delay in posting here..

As already posted by Anand, we did get a sweet deal for Pulsar disc brake kit for 2.2k Including right fork leg & rim with adapter,hub everything fit.

As Murphy's law goes when we sat down to fixing the disc brake & almost everything was done, their was a shocker awaiting, the rim which we had bought from Junk yard was 17" & we needed 18" , since we never intended to buy the rim we din't check for rim size & only at the last moment we picked up the rim itself, anyway it wasn't a big problem & I just wanted to buy the spokes to suit 18" rim on disc brake & use my rim with available hub, adapter etc.

Finally yesterday night we were able to finish the installation & it is now running, have got couple of doubts,

1. The Front wheel isn't as free as it was with drum version.
2. The Lever is too hard to press & the brake doesn't have bite
3. Their was a leak of oil from the master cylinder & Hose pipe joint from the banjo bolt, which has stopped for now & mech has suggested to change washers near the banjo bolt which fits hose pipe & master cylinder

I was skeptical about how to use the pulsar disc with different master cylinder & lever assembly, but It does work & no issues so far ( touch wood), I went in for Unicorn/CBZ / Apache 150 ( as per my mech's idea) is that it was in working condition & I dint have to change anything from that.

Yeah buddy,the bolts are original TVS ones and all i did was convert them to banjo bolts by getting holes drilled through them.




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The smaller bolt is the stock one and the one to it's left,the longer one is the std TVS bolt converted to a double banjo bolt. In it 1,3 and 4 are the holes which are drilled across the bolts and 2/5 are drilled right through the bolts (Top to bottom of the thread part).Pardon the quality of the images,as i'm more comfortable with a manual SLR camera than this point and shoot crap!.
Yes the smaller white stock bolt is a single banjo one and it cost me 100 bucks.The conversion was done quite well by the lathe and the thread is of the soft thread kind.So a hard thread bolt can't be put.
Coming to the thread ruining part even if it gets ruined,then a new brass threading can be put.Which seems likely in my bike's case as it seems the mech has shredded the clutch cover's thread.So even if your bike's head's spark plug threads were shredded you could have gotten it re-done with brass.
I would have done the same too gone for a RTR head with the slightest excuse.
Anyway once this bolt thread issue is fixed,i'll get the pics of the radiator working.
How's your bike's oil drinking problem?found out the reason?

@ Chief
Bro ,go to my album and see the pics of my bike.It has the stock front fender clamp with pulsar/caliber/CT100 front fender.It has 4 bolts fitted and it fits without any issues.So get it done.

Thanks.

Lets see if someday I can be in Bang to take a small ride on your big bore Fiero.

That excuse would have been enough for me though...

The bike doesn't drink the oil anymore, actually i got the plug cleaned and i checked the same after 500 kms, there was no unusual oil detonation problem.
The bike drains oil though, its somewhere around the front sprocket.
I got the oil seal changed still it drains a lot of oil.

the only way to get rid of it is to avoid using side stands, i kept my bike on the main stand for almost a month, and after re-checking the oil level it was constant.

So it makes this thing sure that it draining, not drinking.
I've tried almost everything, still keeps draining...

I may have not let you guys know, but I've removed the alternator, the bike is running rtr's coil with rtr's wiring and regulator.

Now a days i have an urge to take the bike to the track.....