Shifting from N-1, 1-N also has impact with drive chain slack ?
Btw drive chain slack is adjusted regularly and lubed well.

Hmmm tired of hard gears

I shall give a try to Gulf 20w40.

Shall give a try to Gulf 20w40 and update here. Hope it solves.

can any one post me classic fiero electrical diagram or owners manual.

Thanks
vijay

Maybe you'd better ask nanotech or psr to write down the wiring diagram for you.Those two are the electrical guys here.

Abhi,
I got the RTR yoke and lever installed inplace of stock one. The slack is lesser compared to the stock setup. RX clutch cable i had earlier with me given by Joel, so i used that. you get modified clutch actuation lever in tvs showroom to actuate the clutch using shorter clutch cable. Else you can modify your existing clutch actuation lever. Let me know if you need more info about this.
The setup seems to be running fine since 3 years.

Did you try using 20w50 oil, i felt its good for my bumper to bumper traffic in bangalore city.Clutch slip reduced after using this grade of oil.

I have a Presistent problem in my F2 that chain becomes Tight all of a sudden and there is lot of vibration felt in the handlebars and footpegs. Did you guys face this issue anytime. Getting the right chain tension is very difficult for me. can you add any aftermarket chain tensioner to reduce this chain tight-slack issue.

@All
Just a few minutes ago the right hand side panel,which comes under the seat made of fiber-glass got cracked! I had to put a bigger main-jet as well as install the carb properly and in order to remove the tank i had to un-plug the side panel. While doing so it cracked.The crack's about 4 inches long starting from top of the side panel to about the middle in vertical manner, it's very fine and won't be visible on a cursory examination.But i want to get it fixed,the cheapest alternative is to put super-glue and the other alternative is to get a metal mesh heat pressed to the crack from behind to keep it safe.
The main-jet size increase is working properly and the carb's fixed properly too.But looks like i need to visit the mech for this new problem anyway.
Each side of the side-panel costs 900 odd bucks,so i'm hoping/praying that at least one of the alternatives will work.Damn!! i miss those iron steeds!!

Abhi,

Find the pics for clutch cable.

Twistwrist, Looks Interesting, I can find two differences that is

1. The Cable is linked from up front rather than backside like normal fiero
2. The Clutch cable & Clutch Lever meeting point is different than normal fiero.

Need more Inputs & advantages of this set up

Abhi,

Basically its very simple mod , you can carry out by bending the existsting clutch actuation lever itself. In this case the cable outer is movable and cable inner is static.Cable innner is held by a threaded nipple at backside.

I have no clutch drag issues after this mod.
The clutch actuation lever was available in showrooms with cable. It was basically meant for first generation apache 150 as a modification,which had the rear routing clutchcable.
let me know if you require any more info.

Twistwrist

I am being honest, Dint get anything you are trying to say, would it be possible for you to put in simpler english for poor souls like me.

Guys... I feel my bike's compression is very low these days. Hardly any kickback when kicked. What can be done to improve the compression? What can be the cause of the low compression? Does it mean it's time for a piston change? or something else? Cheers!!!
The bike also feels less powerful... specially when trying to rev above 50 or 60.

Abhi,
Sorry if i have confused this one. There was a kit consisting of a short clutch cable and actuation lever made available for the first apaches (these had same clutch cables as fieros). Just findout in showrooms if these kits are still available, if not you could modify the existing lever itself and use RX clutchcable.

Wishing everyone a HEALTHY,HAPPY NEW YEAR

Dude don't be sorry, got it this time I will check it out in ASC & see, I do not have any issues with the clutch & I am happy as it is but then if it gives good & better feedback why not check about it..
Wish you the same PSR

@ All

A small update on the disc brake I have installed, while the Junk yard has its advantages of getting parts in a fraction of original price, it also comes with its share of niggles/problems. While I had opted for classic pulsar disc brake system & got the same, along with it I had got RTR master cylinder which was fitted with Stunner/Shine's Brake Lever.. from the day disc brake was installed I was having problem with hardness to press the lever.

While our mech was very sure the master cylinder was from 1st Gen Apache we were under Impression that it was from Either Stunner/ Shine or other Honda or HH bikes, that left us wandering whether to go for Minor kit change or whole master cylinder change to pulsar, Yesterday evening me & Gixxer did a lot of search around in Interent & after carefully looking at master cylinder's of different bike's brakes we got to know that I was having the RTR master cylinder with a brake lever that is from a Honda bike , we ventured in to Market & check out the prices for Minor kit for 1st Gen apache which is same as RTR & got it for 300rs, 40rs for a Lever & Now My braking is excellent after changing both of them..

I was tempted to go for RTR levers but alas it wasn't gona fit in Clutch side since Fiero & RTR uses different style yokes to accomodate Levers

One more thing, While the Company price for 1st Gen Apache lever is 292rs, we get the same lever from outside for 40rs , it is the same case with RTR Levers too, An RTR lever from company ASC is 254 rs while the similar ones in local market is 70rs.. Now we know how does the ASC's makes money

Also got Gulf pride 4t oil for my next service along with Clutch plates while Gixxer bought Motul 30004t 20w40 for his bike..

@Abhi great going. Soon you guys will be masters of Master Cylinders,and Disc Brakes.