@ PSR

Yup, everyone are learning at a good rate.
All thanks to you and Gixxer.

A happy new year to you too sir.

@ abhi

Do let us know what are the changes needed to be done in order to fit the rtr levers ??

Thanks PSR for your kind words, although this is nothing but thanks to congress Govt that is forcing us to venture in to Junkyard shopping due to high Inflations

I am not sure but that does might require Yoke changes to accommodate RTR levers since both fiero & RTR uses different type of Yokes.

RTR Levers looks tempting with that Matt Steel Finish

Thanks for suggesting Gulf Pride 20w40, the engine definitely seems smooth. But gears are still hard. I guess I should let the engine run with new oil for few more miles n see the outcome. Bike has run abt 250kms after oil change.

Wishing you and all others here a very happy and prosperous new year too.
Thanks buddy.About the lever change,buddy compared to the other modifications done ,this one should be a simple one.

Like nanotech has said before,changing to different oil will not solve your issue i think.So if i were you,i'd be focusing on the transmission and chain/sprockets form a very important part of it.Or else maybe you have to learn to live with it.

@Abhi

Now that you're happy with the set-up,try and be happy that you got it for a fraction of what it actually costs.

@All

The broken side panel was repaired quite well the very next i had posted about it here.Another thing is,that it's made of ABS plastic and i had posted it as being made of fiber glass.The repair's done using heat pressing of a metal sheet/patch with perforated holes in it and it's a 10 minute job at best.It's contoured to match the shape of the side panel and additionally we've put araldite's quick glue to the front to close up the 4inch hair-line crack.The crack was very thin and this glue has closed it real well,although the crack wasn't visible before ,now the glue has become visible.All in all ,a well done repair job which saved me 1000 bucks.

The other updates are that i've gone back to the stock 3.00*18 rear tyre and bike's feeling very light and sharper than before.The wheelbase has reduced by a few mm's as reduction in tyre profile size and it's obvious what a few mm's of change in wheelbase does.More than anything, the bike feels even better with the stock tyre and when i say stock tyre i literally mean the stock 10 year old tyre which came with the bike. I had used it for about 5k kms before changing over to 100/90/18 and i had stored it properly and the tyre to my surprise is as good as it was before.The rubber hasn't hardened,nor does it seem to have aged either and this actually surprised me.
Abhi has seen it and tested it too.So you guys can ask him about it.

The other change has been that,i've put the stock spec spark plug ,that is the NGK Iridium CR7E IX i had with me and with a bigger main-jet which i had changed to.The engine's feeling very stoich and it's humming like a bee.Further plans are to change the oil-cooler hoses to that of the hydraulic one i've bought and with that get the oil changed to MOTUL 3000 4T plus 20W40 one which Abhi mentioned about earlier.

It's hard to suggest something without more info about any change in oil level and a clear pic of the spark plug.

@ gix

Its great to know that you got the crack rectified quite easily.
Me on the other hand has the bolt knobs of the rear panel (both sides) broken from almost a century and i didn't yet care to fix it ever.
Infact once there was this old woman crossing the road and i was riding at a reasonable speed as the road was almost empty.
Seeing me approaching (even though i was quite far) the woman freaked out and stood in the middle of the road and meanwhile there was this auto rickshaw guy riding at almost the same speed as i was.
Noticing the woman freaking out i stopped (not suddenly) and this rickshaw guy banged up my rear panel and broke a part of it covering the tail lamp.

Even after that incident i almost never considered fixing it at all.
My bike chatters all the way from the rear because of all the rear broken 3 piece unit, but as long as it isn't falling apart, i don't even wish to fix it.

Considering you give a lot of attention to the slightest crack too, i am kinda feeling guilty for not giving my bike the attention it needs (or deserves).

@ all

Today in the evening when i started my bike, after almost 100 mtrs the bike struggled (the way it does when fuel knob remains OFF by mistake) and turned off.
I tried to turn the fuel knob on, but noticed that it was already ON, and the bike was almost on full tank of fuel.
I tried to start it billions of times, everything works decently, but still doesn't start, as i was getting late for swimming i pushed the bike back home and took a bus instead.

It feels to me that there might be some dirt in the carb, or something else but haven't checked yet.
Any pointers ???

UPDATE

I tried to drain some fuel from the carb initially by loosening the drain screw.
But even after removing the entire screw, no fuel came out.
I tapped the carb a bit and then fuel started pouring from the place where the screw goes in.
Later it even started pouring from the real drain place.
It initially gave out dark black fuel, and later followed clean fuel.
I let it drain until say 100ml and then my watchman freaked out that i might burn the place .

I put the screw back and tried to start, still NO LUCK.

Now i thought maybe its an electrical or sparking issue, as I've suffered EVERY type of electrical problem one can face from a motorcycle.
Thus i removed the spark plug cable to check the sparking (with the kill switch ON as well as OF) as it behaves dicey sometimes.
Sparking was nice and long, infact i could feel the current passing through my entire body too as my forearm touched the kick.

So this basically rules that out.

Now the only option i have is to remove the entire carb, bring it home, dissemble the lower bowl and clean the jet after removing it.
If things still doesn't work then "mechanic ZINDABAD"

Damm from as long as I've put up this Pulsar's carb i need to clean it every 3 months.
fiero carb never needed this ever.
Maybe its all in my head.

Lets see what happens once i try stuff.

Yeah buddy,it's better to ignore plastic parts as they make no difference what so ever.Basically it was a cheap repair costing 50 bucks,that's why i got it done and more than that i hate investing 1000 bucks on plastic.So if it comes to that,then i'll even put RTR's plastic parts(used) ,as they are 4 different pieces.I'm not at all specific about keeping anything stock on any bike.
That's really funny and that(shock) treatment's highly recommended for our resident worry-wart AKA Abhi
From what you're saying it looks like there's dirt/rust in the tank,which in turn might be periodically getting into carb.

Got my hands dirty today, and it was extremely difficult to open up the carb base.

The idea was to remove whatever dirt i could and also throughly clean the jet and the sprinkler.
It was worth doing it...

Initially i couldn't open one of the screws, i hammered it a lot and damaged the grooves of the screw too, changed its + shape to conical shape.

After doing it too much and spending 2 complete hours, i gave up and took the carb to a mech near my house.
It was a piece of cake for him to do the same at the first ever try, all i asked him to do was to loosen it a bit, after seeing him do the same so easily, i realized that i need to hit the gym sooner rather than later.

Coming back i removed the base, removed the jet as well as the sprinkler and cleaned it thoroughly.

Have a look at the pics.

This particular picture is the inlet of the carb, as there was enough dust here too, i presume that maybe the dirt is not the rust of the fuel tank, but its entering from the air filter.
I am using stock filter with 2 sponges





After removing the jet as well as the sprinkler (or whatever its called)




Cleaning it throughly, rinsing it all the way in petrol a lot of times and putting those things back.




Notice the amount of dirt i removed (i previously drained all the dirty fuel that was already inside)






Now this was quite a lot of dirt inside the carb.

I went back down putting everything together and installed the carb back.
I tried starting the bike but NO LUCK.
Everything is back to square one, the carb is clean, sparking is brilliant, but still the thing doesn't start at all.

I thought that maybe I've flooded the carb with fuel, and that's why its happening, so i turned off the fuel knob and drained all the fuel completely and tried again, still no luck.

So basically, it doesn't even give you a hint as its trying to start.
holding the revs a bit high does make it feel trying to start, but it doesn't.

I thought that the only thing left now would be the spark plug's gap filled with dirt.
I tried finding my 19mm ring spanner everywhere in the house to opne the plug for checking and maybe cleaning that too if necessary, couldn't find it so i gave up and stopped trying.

Maybe tomorrow if i find it, things will be much clearer.

However i need expert advice from all you guys about all this, hope i get it sorted by myself doing the mech work.

Waiting patiently.

@Nanotech

Buddy firstly congratulations on getting on with it yourself,secondly good pictures!!

Here are the list of things you need to do :-

1. From the look of the slide and the air-filter side of the carb's venturi ,it's clear that the engine has been flooded.
2. Dirt is obviously an issue too.
3. You need a 16mm ring spanner to check the plug.

If i am not mistaken,you're using a platinum plug,so once it gets wet it's hard to clean and it will keep shorting out.So you need to take the plug out and cook it on your gas stove Believe me i've had this very issue and sorted it out as well.
For now open the plug and put another spark plug and try starting the bike.It will start.
The platinum plug is very sensitive to flooding,if it gets wet with fuel it will short and won't have sufficient spark energy to start the bike.That is,there will be spark if you put it on the engine head to check it,but it won't be of enough intensity to start the engine.So you have to cook it proper to get rid of the fuel and then it will start.

That's where the iridium plug shines through,from my experience,even when the iridium plug is being drenched in engine/Gb oil,it will still have enough energy to keep the engine running.So if you want reliability ,which's very important when you're in a remote place especially when it's dark and if there's a girl/female companion as well.Then it pays to invest in a iridium spark plug.

@ gix

Opened the spark plug, and it was YUCK !!!
By the way, i use the NGK G powered CR7E
Have a look at the way it looked when it first came out.




It was an eyesore, and i noticed it was wet too, you were absolutely right gix, besides i could even smell fuel over it.
After reading your post, i tried to clean it as much as possible, i tried burning it over the gas too.
Cleaned it with kerosene thoroughly too but couldn't achieve much with it.
This is how it looked after almost an hour of vigorous cleaning...






I did put this thing back again and tried to start the bike, to my surprise it almost did start but only for a few seconds.
I quickly removed the plug and noticed it quite wet too.
Having wiped it again with a clean cloth, i tried the same process, but it wasn't fruitful.

So basically, i need a new plug and i could have straightaway got and bought one. But i need you to recommend me the best plug there is, i don't want to face this problem ever again.

I think Iridium might do the trick, or maybe something else.
Considering a big bore, big carb, tci and what not, i would like to know the most compatible heat range in the current situation on my bike.

@ PSR

Where are you ?????

Bro ,your bike's drinking oil big-time.

Compression loss is the reason why your bike's not firing up.Hopefully ,the issue might be with the valve-train and not the bore.

If you remember,the last time around when you had posted a pic of your spark plug after you had complained about oil level getting low,we had told you that your bike's drinking oil and since then it might have gotten worse.That's the reason why you had been blaming about clutch slippage,the real reason for this feel was compression loss.

The kick backs are massive, i highly doubt any compression loss.
The power is on tap whenever needed.

It doesn't drink oil any more, it just leaks.
From last 1500 kms, the oil level hasn't dropped.

What should i do ???