Cool, Didn't I tell you that you will like this oil , coming to Hard Gear shifts, hows it now ?

Yes Sir I do

@Nanotech, OMG dude that sure looks bad, please look in to this carefully & get this done once & for all.

I changed the spark plug, it fired smoothly at the first ever try.
i ripped the bike a bit to notice any undesirable effects or misfiring or comp leakage or clutch slippage.
Didn't seem quite like that.
But honestly it didn't even seemed improved like it should with a new plug.

What i basically mean is that even when the plug was in that condition but still working it never felt struggling, neither is this new one.

comments and discussions are welcome.
C'mon guys, this thread is going slow now-a-days, lets revv it hard....

You have a massive oil leak into combustion chamber...most definitely bad rings...or valve stem seals that leak like taps...open the head and you will have the answer.The new plug may run for 200 to 300 Kms before hitting the same problem ...Try reading the New plug at 100 Kms..you will see for yourself.

The fact that your bike's running means the compression loss is not too much,which means not too much damage's been done due to running with low oil levels.It's high time you got this sorted out,otherwise your bore/head/crank will get ruined,if it hasn't been ruined already.
Remember,a 80 buck worth bad oil seal ,if ignored will lead to an complete engine re-build.

I had changed the oil stem seals last time i opened the cylinder head.
It can be piston ring issue.
Or maybe more.

I am running low on cash currently, so lets see what options do i have when i do visit the mech.

Thanks a lot guys for suggestions.
Is there any more things you guys want me to show you (maybe a pic) to help understand more ??

Pictures taken by you are always welcome Buddy,take the new plug out and put it's pictures here and maybe then it'll give somewhat an idea of how much oil's being drunk.
For now,you have no issues with the spark-plug and neither with the engine flooding.That is,the previous plug was ruined by oil and this new one won't last either.
The major problem you have is with the oil getting past some of the components.Which could be:-

1. Oil seals of the valves
I suspect this is how the leakage began,as the alternator was putting too much load on the engine and hence leading to engine being made to lug.

2. Worn Rings
This could have happened because of engine running lean/when there was pre-ignition issues,or it most probably was due to oil level being low because of point #1.

3. Bore
If bore's gotten worn,once again it could be because of engine running lean or because of oil level getting low.

From what you're saying,the cam and crank seems ok.So the options are either getting the head re-set,which won't be costly.Or replacing the rings,which once again won't be costly.Or if the bore's worn,then the cheapest option would be to go for a re-bore with a next size piston and rings.Which also will be cheaper than a bore-kt replacement.

The black dirt found in the carb is from the engine blow-back via the intake manifold.So that means your carb had nothing to do with the dirt/any of the problems,as that's the soot from the engine getting into the carb.

While you are at it,try revving the bike with your palm kept a inch or two from the silencer's end-pipe.It will get oily soot on it.

@All @Abhilash

Another thing,the oil-cooler of the ZMR is of the same size as that of the p200 and p220 Fi.That is,it's the same size and probably the same as the one on my bike.The only difference being it's been put in a vertical manner ,as opposed to the horizontal set-up on the pulsars and on my bike.The P220 dtsi has a bigger oil-cooler than that of the ZMR.

I haven't ridden much (not even 5 kms after the new plug) so once I've ridden a bit I'll post the picture here.
I tried to keep my palm over the silencer and revved the bike, it was nothing unusual, it was dry air with no oiliness.

Besides as you guys know i keep an extra can of oil to keep topping up the oil, quite recently i didn't need to top it up even after 1500 kms, however i didn't check the oil level currently.

Will do it tomorrow and will post the pic of the new plug too.

Oh my, I wonder how can the ZMR engine keep up with such small oil cooler with full fairing on it

@ Nanotech

All the best dude, hope it is not something very bad that has happen to your bike

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Yesterday Abhi got his bike serviced as well as getting the clutch plates changed and more on it from Abhi later.So,as the clutch cover was opened we took the opportunity to actually see the oil circuit,were as till now i had only heard the explanation from the mech about it when the oil-cooler fitting was being planned.The above pictures were taken by Abhi from his flash equipped mobile camera and as you can see the picture quality is very good.
In the pictures :-
1. Is the oil input to the crankshaft from the oil filter.

2. The oil circuit which supplies filtered oil to the crankshaft ,as well as the head and the gearbox.

3.The oil input circuit to the oi-filter from the oil pump.

4. Oil-pump.

5. Crankshaft wit the oil supply hole in the center which supplies oil to the main bearings and the connecting rod bearing.

6.The other half of the oil input circuit from the oil-filter to the crankshaft,head and gearbox.

7. The other half of the oil input circuit from the oil-pump to the
oil-filter.

From the pictures it's clear as to how well the Suzuki engineers have designed the engine with foresight for a oil-cooler addition designed into it.

Once we saw the oil circuit,i asked the mech to check the oil flow to the head with the oil-cooler input connected to the crank provision and the oil cooler output connection to the head removed.This was done to check as to what the oil flow pressure is without the oil cooler's output connection to the head.That is,this would show what kind of pressure is there in the stock oil circuit despite the oil cooler taking the input from the crank provision but not supplying cooled oil to the head.The good oil pressure in the stock oil line to the head proved that there's enough pressure despite the oil cooler's connection,which means there's enough oil flow pressure to the crankshaft too.As the output from the oil filter supplies oil to the crankshaft,head and the gearbox as well.
Now my plan's to get the oil changed to that of the MOTUL 3000 4T plus 20W40 along with installing the hydraulic hoses which i have with me.

Guys, Sorry to Bump the thread. One of my close friend had met with an accident on his fiero & damaged his both Side Scoops & the front Fender of Blue color. Have been searching all over Tamilnadu & no luck. Any help to this would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The ZMR oil cooler is superior to the Pulsar ones since the number of fins and the oil pipes are better in number and dimension....this is what the HH SVC guy told me some time back.

I have seen both,the ZMR oil cooler is same as the one on my bike.There's no difference in fins.The current pulsars have 1/4th more area and hence superior.

I can give you a authorized TVS spares dealer's phone numbers,you guys can contact him about it and he does supply spares through courier.