Yes, i have seen the show.
In fact there was this XS 500 twin yamaha (which these guys normally use to make cafe racers apart from triumph) under my friend's building.

Me and a cousin of mine planned to buy it as it was rusting and make something out of it.
As i did a lot of research to look forward weather it could be done, i came across these cafe racer documentaries as well as some oldie's content related to that particular machine.

But as soon as we were ready, the bike was sold to someone.
We did try to reach it, but weren't able to.

This was possibly 2 years ago.

Almost every other bike feels like an armchair already, as i said earlier, i did try the USD setup with the FZ's handlebar and it pulls outwards like an attacking bull's horns.
It was impossible to hold it, couldn't get it right with this handle.

The mech's frustration has led me stop tweaking the handlebar, because re-installing the switches back is a big mess as it has taken days of work to get the switches installed and work the way i wanted them to.

I am although happy with the front end feedback, but not happy with the front end feel, i had a recent ride to Lavasa where i used the rearsets and handlebar combo to absolute limit.
The suspensions needs stupendous hardening if we really want to dive in deep in corners.

Cafe racers and our bikes are very much similar in terms of chassis, tyres and brakes apart from the engine, what i can make out is that those had ultra hard suspensions which made them so damn flick-able. In this bike's case its too soft and quite wobbly at high speed turn in's.

I really want to ride your bike once.

Well, currently i am not planning to undertake any mods, i had a few plans but it doesn't seem worth, apart from the fact that i've done quite a lot already, now i am saving for something bigger.

Last time i visited my mech, he was working on the karizma's engine and was actually going to install it on the CBZ classic's frame for his own use, i am waiting to ride that bike.

Yes,that would be excellent.A twin cylinder set-up on a classic double cradle chassis.The thing i like about cafe-racers are that they are minimal with classical sport/street design and are cheap modification jobs(mostly to make it lighter).
A LC engine, hot-rodded in a classic frame with maybe a small semi fairing to make it a club-man and simple enough to maintain would be a perfect bike for all purposes.
The rear suspensions have to be hard to be a good handler and i got my bike's suspensions re-conditioned long time back itself.The stock suspension is super-soft and the bike starts to oscillate up and down at higher speeds with a pillion once it hits a uneven patch of tarmac.So the first thing i did was to get them hardened.Now even with a pillion, on moon like surfaces also it doesn't see-saw like before. The shox guys were looking at me like i was nuts and kept on asking me as to whether i'd really like the suspensions to be as hard as possible.Apache/RTR have excellent hard shox at rear and other than the mono-shox ones, they are the best around.But they are costly too,like 3.6k for the pair or so and that's the reason i had dropped that idea back then.ZEN TVS have some really good drag/track prepped fiero/RTR's ,with the whole works done.That is,stripped,mono-shox,clip-ons,rear-sets,FFE and with semi fairings etc.Race prepped bikes have their own charm i guess.Yeah you should ride my bike.

@All

Yesterday me & gixxer did the brake bleeding for my bike, I was not happy with the bite even after riding bike for more than 2 weeks after installing & wanted to get done the bleeding again, went out to buy some Brake oil & sat down for bleeding at night 9pm.

We were done with the Bleeding & the bite was better, we took turns testing both of our bikes while gixxer was happy with the bite in my bike, I was not that happy & I thought his brake's bite was much much better..

An update on the Clutch plates - It seems holding up after slight adjustment from the mech, although it feels thier is a slight slipping which gixxer confirmed yesterday after multiple trail rides to check on it, we both have decided to change clutch settings to half clutch & see if that can make things little better if any & then see how to go about it..

Disc brake's fine now and now you can see how much difference adding it to a bike makes.
About the clutch,your perennial obsession in keeping the free-play of the clutch lever to the minimum possible level has had a significant role in reducing your clutch's life i think.At least learn from it now and get the clutch set to half-clutch.Fiero has a excellent smooth gear box with no false neutrals what so ever and yet your obsession with keeping the setting to maximum clutch is ridiculous!
@All
This guy keeps going to the mech and chews his head off repeatedly even if there's a mm of free-play!!
The oil cooler's working and the difference it has made till now, which can be felt is that engine's feeling more refined.

Ask him, what have we named him

@Abhi - You were very much happy with drum brakes, now you are not happy with bite of disc brake. lol.. Very aggressive brakes are not good, beware !

I am not comfortable with Half clutch from as long as I can remember, it bloddy makes the gear shifts hard & I hate it.. Lets how does it trade in Fiero. will change the Clutch settings & see..

Yeah now the bite is much better but not like typical pulsar one's, I am also finding the lever isn't as free as it should be, I tried RTR's & CBZ xtreme's & both has very soft play unlike mine.. may be I should check if it has anything to do with lever now..

All in all I am pretty happy & these are small problems which I can take care of

Abhi,

I have a Fiero F2 , used to get half clutch and clutch play issues continiously. Later on i tried the clutch lever and redesigned lever arm for apache 150 by tvs motors. I have used yamaha rx135 clutch cable in this mod.Ever since clutch feels better than before. hope you guys have tried this modification.

@ abhi

Even if you do get the bleeding done, it would only settle you down for 1~2 days.
If your feeling the brake lever rock solid and a bit jittery while pressing, you need to get the entire master cylinder valves as well as the calipers overhauled.
I got some of my valve changed which made a really massive amount of difference.
Try it out.

Regarding the clutch, well while up-shifting you can do that even without the clutch, you wont feel the toe shifter hard.
This doesn't damage the gearbox if your timing is right.
But is not recommended so don't do it purposely, the idea was to let you know the logic of hard shifts and the involvement of the clutch.
In case the clutch is half pressed or slippage occurs, you'll feel it hard no matter what you do.

I think you need to replace your plates and springs to get a good feel from the clutch lever.
I've ridden a fiero with rtr's levers on both ends too as twistwrist mentioned, it does make a positive difference in the feel, but it would only help if everything else is right.

Get the clutch springs and plates changed asap, don't wait otherwise you'll get used to an unresponsive and struggling machine and you would jump out of the fiero league even after being in it.

Sorry for the OT

My ZMR gear shifts are getting harder day by day. Service center guys were of no help. They say its common, but I have tried others bike and its pretty much smooth. My bikes odo is nearing 12k, changed oil about 1k kms back.
Any help is appreciated.

shreeni switch to Motul 3000 4T 20w40 or Honda 20w40.

PSR Sir, recommended grade for ZMR is 10w30, I am currently using 10w40 Shell SS. I will change the oil. Abhi was talking about Gulf Pride 20w40, Motul I can try. I didn't find Honda oil is great

Do one thing,first get the chain adjusted and let us know the result.If chain's too slack it will make shifting hard.

Gulf pride is available in 10w30 too.
My friend's ZMR uses the same oil.
However even after changing the oil the hardness while shifting is still there.

I think it doesn't have a solution in oil change, still try motul as PSR recommended, he is always right.

I had used Gulf pride 4T 20w40 and had posted the better smoothness ,less heat,and long life of oil way back in April...I had since used other oils and found that the next best thing is Motul 3000 4T and Honda 20w40...in that order...
10w30 will give you better acceleration,but will perish in 600 to 800 Kms, whereas the 20w40 lasts easily for 1,500 Kms...
it is better to use Good mineral oil ,and change every 1,500 to 2,000 Kms.
My personal experience in doing so ensured a smooth and good revving engine.

I am 75% approximately right and 25 % probably wrong...
That said I experiment in real life condition and only after knowing the result try to express my opinion...and I had and still evolving after coming to this thread,..it has taught me many NEW things I did not know before...

do you mean to say that you are using yoke from A150 & Clutch cable from Rx135, I would check on this if the problem persists & has problem with clucth adjustments rather than Clucth plate gone kaput

My master cylinder, caliper, brake set were checked & overhauled before it was put in to bike, In fact I even wanted to change the lever but then mech suggested to keep the same, since the bike was not good mech said since the brake pads have become hard & haven't been used for a long time it is like that & if we change the pads the bite Increase, I feel the lever is hard to press & feel that I should try & change the Lever, It looks to me that I am running on Stunner/ Shine master cylinder kit & would want to check.

Dude i have no problems changing gears, clutch feels slipping & I think this is the sign to change Clutch plates now..

The thing is bike feels almost normal when driven sanely, only when i downshift & twist the throttle that only revs build up & bike builds speed very slowly & I can feel that clutch plates are at their end of life

Lets try with Gulf pride 20w40, If you want to stick to 10w30 then We can try the same grade from Gulf itself but then In my opinion you should go for 20w40

Or Gulf pride 20w40, I rate Gulf at the top of oil Mineral Oil Chain

Have already replied my views in the replies above

Possible

10w30 is too thin, I remember I had used this once in My Classic CBZ & almost 300ml oil was burnt to Ultra short stroke High revving engine of Classic CBZ

PSR Ji, Gulf pride 4t 20w40 is available of shelf near my place & shreeni can very well use it, I felt this is much better compared to any other oil & suggested this to him..he told me that his engine feels getting more heated up in city traffic & I felt that Gulf will trade better for this kind of issues in the mineral oil segment, although I must also agree that Motul 30004t is the next best to Gulf followed by Elf moto 4 gold & shell mineral oils