This is not such a difficult thing bro,all you need to do is go to a spares shop and compare the inner dia of RTR/fiero sprocket to that of the yam bikes.My guess is that the sprocket might not be a original one,otherwise there's no possibility of such things happening.
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Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
This is not such a difficult thing bro,all you need to do is go to a spares shop and compare the inner dia of RTR/fiero sprocket to that of the yam bikes.My guess is that the sprocket might not be a original one,otherwise there's no possibility of such things happening.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
Crux/Ybx/Libero front sprocket is a direct fit. The only difference is, Fiero/apache/suzuki front sprockets have a 2 hole washer/holder and Crux/Ybx/Libero front sprockets have a single hole holder.Originally posted by max007 View PostBuddy best of luck for the mods .
It may look silly for you with my problem but I am struck with a problem the inner sprocket of yamaha cruz dosent fit in my bike the inner dia is a little large the mech claims! any other idea ?.
Bro, instead of a link type gear lever, why don't you just invert the half cut fiero lever and use it as a all up shift pattern? I once did this in a tvs star city and it was fine. Have a look at the gear lever of this high end bike.Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View PostGear shifting has become a concern actually.While up-shifting is as smooth as always,down-shifting from 3 to 2 and 1 is becoming more of a gamble.I mean the gear is getting stuck if 3 when shifting to 2 and from there to 1, if the speed is crawling like during traffic hours.At slow speeds the gears are getting properly stuck and i have to plan in advance when downshifting.I had to on a few occasions push the bike with the clutch pulled in to the side of the road and then force it to get to 1st to move on.On a few occasions i almost got rear-ended in slowly moving traffic due to bike refusing to shift to 2nd, or to 1st.The scariest was when i had to take a u turn with the traffic moving at a rapid pace and the bike refused to shift to 2nd from 3 and i had to pull in the clutch and push the bike to cross the on coming lane.
The thing is,with the additional steel plate it was looking like the top clutch plate might slip out of the basket, when the clutch is dis-engaged,if we adjusted the clutch for full movement.So i have made it half clutch and this as it is makes down-shifting hard.Now i'm in a dilemma,because i had also read on many online sites about this mod increasing clutch plate life along with stopping the slippage.The RTR clutch mod needs about 3k+.
Another thing adding to this is that of the gear lever.That is,my bike because of the rear-set mod,i've modified and put a Yam FZ gear lever and it's a link type similar to that of the ZMA.Which as you know will never be as good as the directly fitted gear lever.I had put a RTR gear lever prior to this ,which proved to be a delicate alloy affair and hence on getting struck by a small stone the lever's linkage broke into two and i had to ride home at night in 2nd gear only,that too after shifting the gear by hand.
Prior to the RTR gear lever mod, i had been using ZMA/EXTREME lever which is not as good as the RTR gear lever system,but ZMA/FZ kind which has a hook kinda linkage is made from steel and hence is more reliable.

coming to the gear shift problem, mine is not as worse as yours. Actually, my gears shift better than pulsars after the mod. the clutch arrangement should be
clutch inner bell + steel + steel + friction + steel + friction + steel + friction + steel + friction + steel + Friction + inner bell cover. You have to change the clutch lever mount to pulsar's and lever to ybx's. The fiero's clutch lever travel is 2.5 inches and this mods travel is 3 inches. If the plates aren't bent and the inner bell isn't worn, then it will not fall out. Trust me bro!
I don't want to boast here, but I am the one who tried this mod. I don't know how others have posted about the same mod. Maybe someone has copied my idea or has though in a similar way. Anyway, my best wishes for your bike's clutch mod.
Well, i am seriously confused here. The rx sprockets doesn't have a hole type sprocket holder. It has a tongue washer/nut holder and the fiero's secondary drive shaft does not have the thread to incorporate a nut holder. Please let me know how you did it. The way how I do it is, 15t from pulsar ug3, 14 t of apache and 13 t of Fiero.Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View PostThat's surprising!because Abhi,another fiero guy is using the crux's 14t gb sprocket from over 2 years now.I have used yamaha ybx's 14t one prior to the current one ,which is that of the RX135,which is a 15t one.Last edited by v1gnesh; 06-23-2013, 04:38 PM.
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
Hi max,
I am currently using YBX GB sprocket since a few years and it was plug and play. So, rest assured that picking up an original spare will do the job well.
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----Originally posted by max007 View Posthe is claiming rx would fit but I am not willing as it would ( 15t ) make the gearing too tall in stock engine setup.
And he asked me for two days to search for the sprocket which would match lets see if any thing comes positive .
Guys,
Wanted to set the timing chain myself. The auto chain tensioner has 3 nuts in an oOo pattern.
Do I tighten/loosen the middle large nut only? Or do I have to remove the side small nuts as well?Ride it like you stole it! But buy your own helmet.
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
just loosen the middle bolt. There will be a very small (-) screw loaded with spring. loosen it using a mini screw driver or a small size scissor. When completely loosened, it will hold its position. You'll also have to remove the flywheel to change the timing chain.Guys,
Wanted to set the timing chain myself. The auto chain tensioner has 3 nuts in an oOo pattern.
Do I tighten/loosen the middle large nut only? Or do I have to remove the side small nuts as well?Last edited by v1gnesh; 06-25-2013, 01:54 AM.
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
Ok great. Thanks for the tip man. Thing is I'm not replacing with new one yet. There is slight sound in original one and want to adjust it before it gets worse. Tappets and valves are fine. So want to eliminate the noise by loosening / tightening via chain tensioner.Originally posted by v1gnesh View Post[COLOR=#333333][FONT=verdana]
just loosen the middle bolt. There will be a very small (-) screw loaded with spring. loosen it using a mini screw driver or a small size scissor. When completely loosened, it will hold its position. You'll also have to remove the flywheel to change the timing chain.Ride it like you stole it! But buy your own helmet.
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
My apologies bro.Since you assured me that the clutch plate won't slip out,what i did was revert back to RTR gear lever set-up and most importantly reduced the free play from half clutch to just about half inch.The result now is that the gear shifting is as good as everOriginally posted by v1gnesh View PostCrux/Ybx/Libero front sprocket is a direct fit. The only difference is, Fiero/apache/suzuki front sprockets have a 2 hole washer/holder and Crux/Ybx/Libero front sprockets have a single hole holder.
Bro, instead of a link type gear lever, why don't you just invert the half cut fiero lever and use it as a all up shift pattern? I once did this in a tvs star city and it was fine. Have a look at the gear lever of this high end bike.

coming to the gear shift problem, mine is not as worse as yours. Actually, my gears shift better than pulsars after the mod. the clutch arrangement should be
clutch inner bell + steel + steel + friction + steel + friction + steel + friction + steel + friction + steel + Friction + inner bell cover. You have to change the clutch lever mount to pulsar's and lever to ybx's. The fiero's clutch lever travel is 2.5 inches and this mods travel is 3 inches. If the plates aren't bent and the inner bell isn't worn, then it will not fall out. Trust me bro!
I don't want to boast here, but I am the one who tried this mod. I don't know how others have posted about the same mod. Maybe someone has copied my idea or has though in a similar way. Anyway, my best wishes for your bike's clutch mod.
Well, i am seriously confused here. The rx sprockets doesn't have a hole type sprocket holder. It has a tongue washer/nut holder and the fiero's secondary drive shaft does not have the thread to incorporate a nut holder. Please let me know how you did it. The way how I do it is, 15t from pulsar ug3, 14 t of apache and 13 t of Fiero.
Like i mentioned earlier,i had set it at half-clutch,meaning half the lever travel was free-play and this was the main factor in making the gears getting stuck in near crawling speed in 3,2 when down-shifting.To top that ,the hook link system inherently has lot of play in it,so it made matters worse to the extent of gears getting stuck.Now with just the right amount of free play adjusted with the clutch lever,the issue is sorted.Even going back to the FZ gear lever should work just as well.
I had thought of the modification you mentioned about making it all up when the rear sets mod was done,but for that the foot peg position, has to be that of the pillion and i am sure you used that as a rear-set while riding the star.But since the rear set is not that behind,this modification wasn't feasible.
About using the rx sprockets,there's no modification done,meaning just the right amount of torquing with the proper method and it won't loosen.As you know,fiero has lot of grunt in 4th,so right after 3'd service was done,i changed over to the 14t set up and after using the 15t while touring,i decided to stick with it even when the bike was stock.Yes it used to feel like a splendor in terms of pick-up,but fiero has enough power at higher revs to blast it off a launch pad(termed by bsm mag).So i've been using the rx 15t sprocket since last 11 years with only changing to 13t and 14t briefly in between.
Edit: The online sites i mentioned about which had this mod being discussed are foreign ones related to honda crx,triumph and harleys.So the credit very much should go to you for this being done on the fiero.
There they have put the extra steel plate in the middle and it's been said to increase clutch life even more due to better heat dissipation.Last edited by gixxer_junkie_m; 06-26-2013, 12:11 AM.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
Sound can be from anywhere bro. Even worn pistons cause sound. What is piston slap?what is the condition under which the piston slap would become apparent?what is the reason - Yahoo! UK & Ireland AnswersOriginally posted by prd8r View PostOk great. Thanks for the tip man. Thing is I'm not replacing with new one yet. There is slight sound in original one and want to adjust it before it gets worse. Tappets and valves are fine. So want to eliminate the noise by loosening / tightening via chain tensioner.
Timing chain produces a whining noise, but it can be barely heard. Any tic tic/tak tak noise coming while sudden throttle is due to the rocker arms / piston/ crank needle bearing/ clutch bell wear. Better check them as soon as possible. Nothing is going to halt the bike, but it will spoil the ride quality.
----consecutive posts auto-merged----- [MENTION=15069]gixxer[/MENTION]
How's your clutch bite now? Any improvement??
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
Clutch is fine.Right after the extra steel plate installation the slipping had stopped.If this mod works to be a decently long lasting one,then i'll not even bother about going for the RTR mod.Originally posted by v1gnesh View PostSound can be from anywhere bro. Even worn pistons cause sound. What is piston slap?what is the condition under which the piston slap would become apparent?what is the reason - Yahoo! UK & Ireland Answers
Timing chain produces a whining noise, but it can be barely heard. Any tic tic/tak tak noise coming while sudden throttle is due to the rocker arms / piston/ crank needle bearing/ clutch bell wear. Better check them as soon as possible. Nothing is going to halt the bike, but it will spoil the ride quality.
----consecutive posts auto-merged----- @gixxer
How's your clutch bite now? Any improvement??Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
Originally posted by v1gnesh View PostSound can be from anywhere bro. Even worn pistons cause sound. What is piston slap?what is the condition under which the piston slap would become apparent?what is the reason - Yahoo! UK & Ireland Answers
Timing chain produces a whining noise, but it can be barely heard. Any tic tic/tak tak noise coming while sudden throttle is due to the rocker arms / piston/ crank needle bearing/ clutch bell wear. Better check them as soon as possible. Nothing is going to halt the bike, but it will spoil the ride quality.
----consecutive posts auto-merged----- @gixxer
How's your clutch bite now? Any improvement??
Yeah bro. I have to wait for the weekend to set the tensioner and after that I will know if there is improvement
Nice link. I don't think it's that serious though. Rocker arms and valves and tappets are fine as I set the clearances myself a few weeks back. Clutch plates I put in new too. Opened it with mech in front of me. Everything is healthy there. Just need to check on timing chain as I said and maybe oil rings are up for change. Will update.
Ride it like you stole it! But buy your own helmet.
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
Hey guyz, hope everyones fine!!!
I have a problem with my F2... The thing is, i had serviced it around 2 weeks ago. after 3-4 days of service, whenever i start the bike for the 1st time in the day (i always use choke for about 8-10 secs, and then keep it for idling..i.e. another 5-8 secs), i hear some ticking kind of noise from the engine. it stays for a km or so and then dissapears. its happening quite often. now is this a problem of improper tappet setting or piston slap??
Thanks.
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
That's tappet noise and nothing to worry about.Oil needs to be warm to lubricate the head and once it reaches the right temp ,the noise goes away.If this ticking noise continues even after the engine's hot,then it means either that the oil has lost it's viscosity(thinned),meaning it needs to be changed,or that the tappet needs to be adjusted. In your case it's not a issue.Originally posted by tintin708 View PostHey guyz, hope everyones fine!!!
I have a problem with my F2... The thing is, i had serviced it around 2 weeks ago. after 3-4 days of service, whenever i start the bike for the 1st time in the day (i always use choke for about 8-10 secs, and then keep it for idling..i.e. another 5-8 secs), i hear some ticking kind of noise from the engine. it stays for a km or so and then dissapears. its happening quite often. now is this a problem of improper tappet setting or piston slap??
Thanks.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
Nothing to worry. It might be the automatic de-compressor in the cam or tappet clearance. Set the idling to 1200-1400 rpm and use thicker oil.Originally posted by tintin708 View PostHey guyz, hope everyones fine!!!
I have a problem with my F2... The thing is, i had serviced it around 2 weeks ago. after 3-4 days of service, whenever i start the bike for the 1st time in the day (i always use choke for about 8-10 secs, and then keep it for idling..i.e. another 5-8 secs), i hear some ticking kind of noise from the engine. it stays for a km or so and then dissapears. its happening quite often. now is this a problem of improper tappet setting or piston slap??
Thanks.
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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx
Hello Everyone
Why this thread become so silent?? cheer up this thread,cheer up Friends..!!!
Here I'm posting upgrades of my Suzuki Fiero 2001 model bike And also Thankful to this thread and Gixxer bro for his valuable suggestions
#Converted to 150cc to 175cc.
#RTR 180's Ignition coil and TCI unit were installed.
#Front drum brake was changed to classic pulsar's disk brake.
#stoke handle,headlight doom assembly were changed to FZ handle bar,yezdi doom and hunk's indicator.
#new crash guard.
See,how it is looking now......???
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