These days even weak rides are fitted with front fairing to look like SBKs and if you think it will perform like one...you will be surprised at what is beyond the front fairing....there will be no proper handlebars in position, and must be kick started,with poor bore and compression,and when you sit on it..it will also go flat not able to handle the load....and with tires that will have no grip...
So watch out,..

Oh oh oh..

From the Nano's Exams to Gixxer's Oil cooler to his new camera to Sarvajit's cosmetic changes to The Mighty High Revving SBK"s..

Fiero Thread Raaacks

Unfortunately no one is talking about Fieros lol!
Anyway, coming back to my unwell bike, this morning the speedo cable got cut&fell off!
I couldn't hear it dragging on the ground since I was listening to music.
Looked down out of doubt when the speedo stopped working&found it.
I had a doubt since a few days the speedo needle was vibrating like crazy.
One more spare added to the list to be changed-I think this service is going to make me take another emi on my card!

@Nanotech/All

Picture of the oil-cooler.It was taken indoors in low light condition,so it's not that clear with the paint reflecting the light from the flash.It cost me 500 bucks and it's that of a P200.I have given it a coat of black paint and if you can see some of the radiating fins are damaged.But still it's no big deal and it's a water tight one.Probably it will be fitted on saturday.No modifications are needed other than fixing it to where the horn is situated now.Of course a clamp is to be made for it.Let's see how things turn out.
Edit: Sorry folks ,for some reason images aren't getting uploaded here.

In the pic you can make out that there's enough room for the oil cooler.

View image: PA050043xbhp

The pictures of the oil cooler.

View image: P1010089

View image: P1010087

This image(not of my bike)shows where the oil cooler provision is.The bolt is the place where the intake to the oil cooler is to be given.Not still sure about where the cooled oil will be sen't to.Most probabbly to one of the external oil banjo bolts.It will be clear hopefully when i meet Mr Murthy.

Nice.

Why don't you copy image location (wherever its hosted) and route it to the image tag directly ??

However, nice pics, and yes it really seems like a bolt on job...

see this gix ---> http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/coffee-l...tml#post181437

Thanks buddy,i will.Which cam do you have?A lot of ppl have put it on even the bulllets of old,with piston pumps.Since our bike has a better pump and as it is a provision for adding it has been designed into it.So oil pressure shouldn't be an issue,though it might need some work with the hoses ,shaping them that is.

It can be attached, that's much clearer now.
The question remains weather this thing really really works or not !!!
well, ofcource after your done installing, maybe this doubt will get cleared too.

And what are you doing to stop oil leakages after installing this ??

BTW i have a Pentax Optio W10.

@gixxer_junkie_m: What is that thing that looks like a snake?
Btw, you have messed up settings in your cam-auto mode will yield better results.

It won't make any difference to the performance,at least none that can be noticed like jetting the carb or modifying the engine or exhaust.So even if i successfully install it,i won't be able to substantiate the benefits.It's more to do with helping the engine's life.
The thing about it is,if it starts to leak,then it's as simple as disconnecting it and no damage will be done.That is because of the design,this oil cooler won't be the primary/only part of the oil circulation circuit to the head.This oil cooler will be a secondary circuit to the main oil lines which are there.So in a case where the oil cooler gets damaged, or starts leaking,or gets blocked,then there won't be any problem related to the oil supply to the head as this oil cooler will be a addition and will not replace the existing oil lines.So all it would need is to remove it and putting back the bolts.At least that's the plan ,let's see how things work out.All this is possible because of the provision made by the suzuki engine designers when they did the design.
More info would be helpful about the cam's auto setting.

Hello guys.

Its been long time that someone has posted here in this thread.
Let me put up my update.

I've got my rear suspensions changed (to stock ones) and clutch/pressure plates changed.
The front brake pads and entire overhaul, same with the rear brake.

The bike feels amazingly stable and great, fiero never braked better. The rear suspension is what we take for granted (atleast that's what i used to do) but now I've realized how much does it help in giving proper feedback throughout.

However i am still not happy with the clutch as always, i haven't tightened it too much, it has a normal play and its half not full, but still i am not satisfied, any comments on that will be very much welcome.

Now comes the difficult part, my bike is misfiring a bit, it basically has to do with the battery as it isn't in pristine condition anymore to keep running the headlamp as well as give enough current to the battery so that it can spark efficiently, so need to settle this down

Now i would again like to pull up a very controversial topic, i need a theoretical explanation of the same.

here is the charging circuit of the RTR





Now here I've withdrawn the charging coil, the rr unit, and also the wire which goes to the ignition coil from the rr unit (in short all the orange wires on top) and what I've done is replaced the entire thing with the alternator and put up a wire to the ignition coil directly from the battery, rest everything else on the circuit is the same.

Now the concern is that i want my spark plug to be from the coil, but again the interesting part is that i have myself winded a few rtr coils, it has 8 poles in which the first 4 are directly going to the headlamp with one of its ends grounded and other wire goes to the RR unit as an AC line.

The remaining 4 poles again has 1 ground and the remaining wire goes to the battery charging.
But there's no yellow pole as fiero F2 and other bikes have which only ignites the spark plug (that pole has nothing to do with lighting and charging).

So this leaves with something to do with the RR unit which physically taps the current from the 8 poles (in which 4 are for headlamp and 4 are for charging definitely) as there's no extra pole only meant for spark plug.

All i need to know is how does it tap what current from what wire to exclude battery and still spark the bike ???

Here is a simplified circuit ...The RR supplies the energy needed for the Battery charging and the TCI..The TCI is ALWAYS supplied with the required energy by the RR unit, IRRESPECTIVE OF BATTERY. which is why the bike can start even without battery.This is common with most DC circuits.

@All

Had been to gixxer's place today & we both went to out to JC road to check on Helmet for him & also to buy a Bonjo bolt for his Oil cooler.

I bought & fixed Bosch twin electrode spark plug & will check if it does change anything over the conventional NGK spark plug..

Gixxer's Oil cooler thing is still pending as he needs to get hands on bonjon bolts & arrange things to install the cooler on to bike & he is taking it easy since he is not in a hurry..

So what option have i been left with ??
I will have to put up a stock rtr 180's coil, which means that i cannot remain on DC circuit !!

Most importantly, its the rr that i need of the rtr 180's, which straightaway means that i have to go back on AC setup, will have to settle down with 35w halogen bulbs !!!

Another thing, as my switches are of p135, they work on DC by stock, i just wanted to know weather i will be able to use the same if i tap the AC line instead of DC for the headlamp ????

Instead of spending on coil, why not change battery?