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Originally posted by NANOtechnology View PostWhen Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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My bike has that yellow pole, that's a different story, we are just talking about the Classic fiero which has 7 poles of the stator.
It starts without the battery, as well as without the stator, however i haven't tested it with both disconnected.
Isn't the wire leading to the CDI routed through the battery ?Giving a lot to a fiero.
Expecting a lot from a fiero.
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Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post@ sarvajit
The old choke lever is inside the LHS assembly, i just got rid of the wire, the lever is still there, doesn't serve any purpose though.
My choke is on the carb itself.
So now we have 2 options:
1. Drill a hole in the P135 switch&join the existing choke lever to it.
2. Directly install on carb
I think method 2 is more reliable, so can you please check which bike's choke lever can be installed onto my stock Fiero? Classic CBZ, P150 are some examples.
Now, there is another point I noticed this morning while riding my bike-you need to check out the gap between the brake lever, grips etc.also.
I'm sure you will work it out-waiting for you to get them!Quench my thirst with gasoline!
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Originally posted by NANOtechnology View PostMy bike has that yellow pole, that's a different story, we are just talking about the Classic fiero which has 7 poles of the stator.
It starts without the battery, as well as without the stator, however i haven't tested it with both disconnected.
Isn't the wire leading to the CDI routed through the battery ?
In stators without it, it is just like Apache/RTR...the stator coil charges the battery through RR,and is powerful enough to supply the CDI requirement.So without battery also it will start.
However if you disconnect BOTH stator and Battery it will not start.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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@imjoshee
Nice looking color.I personally prefer a black zma and on it my second favorite color is silver.So yes your bike looks fantastic.Black color is hard to maintain,as dust becomes more visible on it, were as silver is easy.
@PSR @NANO
That green connector is enough and it's a must too as psr said ,to start a classic fiero.From what i know, a capacitor holds some voltage and this is situated next to the fuses and prior to the CDI .Once the TDC is detected from the pulse generator ,the CDI uses the current from the pulse generator and in the capacitor to send the required voltage to the Ignition coil which does the rest.
In imjoshee's bike,i think that capacitor has gone weak.Hence it didn't start without the battery.
My two cents worthLife begins, once you hit the power band !!
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@ tintin
I've always used speed on my F2 from when i started riding, after the fuel prices were raised I've switched to Normal fuel.
Can't say if there's any difference now from then as I've gone big bore, but i don't feel there's much to it too.
from whatever I've tried in my early biking days, I've learned that Bharat Petroleum provides the best fuel out there.
Originally posted by Sarvajit View PostI checked my friend's CBZ Xtreme, as well as another Unicorn, in addition to my Fiero. The choke lever is separate, but joint to the LHS switch assembly, with screw internally.
So now we have 2 options:
1. Drill a hole in the P135 switch&join the existing choke lever to it.
2. Directly install on carb
I think method 2 is more reliable, so can you please check which bike's choke lever can be installed onto my stock Fiero? Classic CBZ, P150 are some examples.
Now, there is another point I noticed this morning while riding my bike-you need to check out the gap between the brake lever, grips etc.also.
I'm sure you will work it out-waiting for you to get them!
Try working with stock in your case, if it doesn't fit as its bigger, go for the FZ's handlebar, its the BEST ever mod I've done on my bike, even better than the dual HIDs and even better than the 180 upgrade.
Don't try to fit the choke leaver inside, it won't be possible as you need a clamp mechanism inside to hold the leaver which the stock switch has, all this will be too much of a pain due to the absence of the mechanism as well as cutting and tweaking a brand new BAJAJ switch can lead to undesirable results.
Stay with a Choke Knob on the carb, the best part is, you don't need to keep replacing that Choke wire again and again, which gets stuck due to non usage, i almost never used choke on my bike ever, so i used to end up jamming that wire and then replacing it, as i wanted to mechanism to work, no matter if i don't use it.
Any Carb tuning uncle (the person who specializes in carbs) can do this for you i believe as in CV carbs many things can be replaced.
Other's please highlight.
Originally posted by psr View PostThe yellow stator coil is the 200 to 400 Volts AC generator for the CDI.
In stators without it, it is just like Apache/RTR...the stator coil charges the battery through RR,and is powerful enough to supply the CDI requirement.So without battery also it will start.
However if you disconnect BOTH stator and Battery it will not start.
I think i know whatever was needed to know.
Its either this or that.
Thanks a lot.
Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post@imjoshee
@PSR @NANO
That green connector is enough and it's a must too as psr said ,to start a classic fiero.From what i know, a capacitor holds some voltage and this is situated next to the fuses and prior to the CDI .Once the TDC is detected from the pulse generator ,the CDI uses the current from the pulse generator and in the capacitor to send the required voltage to the Ignition coil which does the rest.
In imjoshee's bike,i think that capacitor has gone weak.Hence it didn't start without the battery.
My two cents worth
If we consider our stock stator where in absence of the battery the spark is ignited, it requires all the 7 poles voltage produced and run it though the capacitors to make it 23KV again, i think that's what actually happens, but i could be wrong.
the green connector is the pulse generator, it has a coil inside and a magnet on the base, it detects the TDC and sends info to the CDI, i don't think it can generate or hold any charge due to its small size as well as magnetic properties.
Since you have a classic fiero and neither I or PSR do, why don't you try ( as your bike is the only one who has a working capacitor either ways), give it a try, keep the green connector plugged in, remove the red RR connector, as well as disconnect the battery, and KICK.
Once done, i am sure everybody here will lead to a path of ENLIGHTENMENT.
@ chief
Even you have a classic fiero, can try if you wish too.Giving a lot to a fiero.
Expecting a lot from a fiero.
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Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post@ tintin
I've always used speed on my F2 from when i started riding, after the fuel prices were raised I've switched to Normal fuel.
Can't say if there's any difference now from then as I've gone big bore, but i don't feel there's much to it too.
from whatever I've tried in my early biking days, I've learned that Bharat Petroleum provides the best fuel out there.
My handlebar is different, its not Stock, its Fz's so i do have enough space to play around with.
Try working with stock in your case, if it doesn't fit as its bigger, go for the FZ's handlebar, its the BEST ever mod I've done on my bike, even better than the dual HIDs and even better than the 180 upgrade.
Don't try to fit the choke leaver inside, it won't be possible as you need a clamp mechanism inside to hold the leaver which the stock switch has, all this will be too much of a pain due to the absence of the mechanism as well as cutting and tweaking a brand new BAJAJ switch can lead to undesirable results.
Stay with a Choke Knob on the carb, the best part is, you don't need to keep replacing that Choke wire again and again, which gets stuck due to non usage, i almost never used choke on my bike ever, so i used to end up jamming that wire and then replacing it, as i wanted to mechanism to work, no matter if i don't use it.
Any Carb tuning uncle (the person who specializes in carbs) can do this for you i believe as in CV carbs many things can be replaced.
Other's please highlight.
That's possible, should have tried it.
I think i know whatever was needed to know.
Its either this or that.
Thanks a lot.
Gixxer buddy, the bike needs 23KV of voltage to start, the voltage is sooo high that it jumps the spark plug electrode till ground, this is really TOOOO much current to be held by the capacitor, even in those bikes with start from the battery directly, like say 9 amp batt, to generate the spark from the battery too, it sucks a lot of juice from a completely charged 9 amp battery to generate that 23KV even through capacitors.
If we consider our stock stator where in absence of the battery the spark is ignited, it requires all the 7 poles voltage produced and run it though the capacitors to make it 23KV again, i think that's what actually happens, but i could be wrong.
the green connector is the pulse generator, it has a coil inside and a magnet on the base, it detects the TDC and sends info to the CDI, i don't think it can generate or hold any charge due to its small size as well as magnetic properties.
Since you have a classic fiero and neither I or PSR do, why don't you try ( as your bike is the only one who has a working capacitor either ways), give it a try, keep the green connector plugged in, remove the red RR connector, as well as disconnect the battery, and KICK.
Once done, i am sure everybody here will lead to a path of ENLIGHTENMENT.
@ chief
Even you have a classic fiero, can try if you wish too.
ya even i used to fill in with power and speed during my early days, and since the 1 yr or so i used only normal fuel.... my friend has the same f2 model and he recently filled in power fuel and he said the engine became smooth and there was no knocking at lower speeds.
another friend who recently bought a rtr180 filled in power and found quite a difference as compared to the normal fuel he used to fill. he says pick up has greatly increased..
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Originally posted by tintin708 View Postwhat is a secondary air injection? and where is this unit placed? what will happen if i remove the SAI??
@NANO
You can do the same too,it'll take care of the backfiring on trailing throttle ,which your bike has on higher revs.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View PostIt sends fresh air charge to the exhaust from the air box ,so it basically is there to reduce the co levels.If you remove it you will be doing your engine a favor.
@NANO
You can do the same too,it'll take care of the backfiring on trailing throttle ,which your bike has on higher revs.
and, other than the misfiring problem, what else will i gain more from the engine after i remove it? in terms of performance and FE?
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Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post
Gixxer buddy, the bike needs 23KV of voltage to start, the voltage is sooo high that it jumps the spark plug electrode till ground, this is really TOOOO much current to be held by the capacitor, even in those bikes with start from the battery directly, like say 9 amp batt, to generate the spark from the battery too, it sucks a lot of juice from a completely charged 9 amp battery to generate that 23KV even through capacitors.
If we consider our stock stator where in absence of the battery the spark is ignited, it requires all the 7 poles voltage produced and run it though the capacitors to make it 23KV again, i think that's what actually happens, but i could be wrong.
the green connector is the pulse generator, it has a coil inside and a magnet on the base, it detects the TDC and sends info to the CDI, i don't think it can generate or hold any charge due to its small size as well as magnetic properties.
Since you have a classic fiero and neither I or PSR do, why don't you try ( as your bike is the only one who has a working capacitor either ways), give it a try, keep the green connector plugged in, remove the red RR connector, as well as disconnect the battery, and KICK.
Once done, i am sure everybody here will lead to a path of ENLIGHTENMENT.
@ chief
Even you have a classic fiero, can try if you wish too.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Originally posted by tintin708 View Post@gixxer dude but when i open the panel of the air filter(left side) i can only see the airfilter. is the SAI located somewhere inside? and how should i remove it? i mean is it easy to remove or is it complicated?
and, other than the misfiring problem, what else will i gain more from the engine after i remove it? in terms of performance and FE?
Performance should increase,but don't expect anything drastic.It will be good for the engine for sure ,if it's removed that is.
Ask the mech to remove it and he has to do some modification near the exhaust port to block it.So it needs a mech who knows what he's up to.
If you or NANO can't find a competent mech to do it ,then my advise would be to leave it as it is.Last edited by gixxer_junkie_m; 02-05-2011, 10:15 PM.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Originally posted by tintin708 View Postwhat is a secondary air injection? and where is this unit placed? what will happen if i remove the SAI??
When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Originally posted by psr View PostSAI is for reducing pollution level of exhaust .This can be removed and plugged,but will make the bike non compliant with pollution requirement.
and will the authorised SVC mechs be able to do the job??
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