Like Gixxer said lugging any bike in lower gear will make it ping(knock).In your case you also reported the bike running on at 8 K rpm when hot ..ie.,even after closing the throttle the bike rpm did not come down as original,but continued to remain at 8 K rpm for a few seconds.This is a clear case of pre-ignition.Hence I had asked you to either do the head work or add another gasket...this is primarily to reduce the compression to a safe level,and prevent piston meltdown.
Do not postpone the head work..unless you want your engine to land up in a basket.

no psr, this never happened after adding another gasket.

what i have written was that whenever i used to rip it up on the highways, it used to kiss the 8k mark and then drop back to 7.5k, even with the throttle completely pulled.
But that day, it kissed the 8k mark, and didn't drop back to 7.5k all of a sudden as always, it remained at 8k until i kept the throttle pulled.
one i de-accelerated, it came back as normal.
it wasn't any unusual behavior, its just that 8k to 7.5k within a second didn't happen that day....

to be honest, for me knocking is not a big issue yet, until someone else rides it and complains about it to me....
it makes me think about it over and over again.

my bike survived a 478kms long hard ripping highway + twisties session with ease, i really don't know weather should i do it or not...

I have a query guys.

some days back i rode a ZMR, a GS 150r and my bike back to back as i happen to meet some of my friends.
Since ZMR was in a run-in period, didn't rip it, but i rode that GS for about 20 kms, apart from finding that bike very weak and uncomfortable, i noticed that it also KNOCKS whenever we wack the throttle, almost the same as my bike does.
The only difference is that it doesn't knock if we hold the rpm over 3.5k to 4k and then wack, but my bike needs to be held at-least at 5k.

now if a stock 1 year old bike knocks, isn't my knocking also natural ?
maybe we aren't able to judge it weather is it really a compression issue, or is it not as bad as we think it is ??

true that the bike fires gunshots from the silencer on sudden de-acceleration.

i asked a few people, i was recommended to use SPEED instead of std petrol as its good for higher compression bikes, also i was told that if i use say a different oil, petronas 5000 sprinta or something (can't remember the name) then my knocking issue will go away.
the oil recommendation has come from the same bore uncle who designed my valve grooves and asked me to keep the compression high.

i really don't know what to do !!
trust me guys, the knocking isn't as bad as it seems to be, its almost like a stock bike, a bit more so to say....
do i really really need to get the head enlarged ???

If you have no knocking noise when you pull the bike gradually,and when you don't have run on at higher RPMs I guess you are set for now. Your spark plug had brown color electrode ,so your AFR is also not lean......
Guess it is time to relax and enjoy riding.....
Good Luck ..RIDE SAFE.

nano firstly don't go for the petronas,my bike got screwed in the end lead to loss of compression because one of the valves got stuck,reason carbon deposition sub reason-oil consumption,leading to block piston replacement.
About the knocking,did you ride the bike in heavy traffic conditions,that is in a condition where the engine got heated similar to what you experience when you ride in b2b traffic.And as gixxer had mentioned any bike be it a splendor or a fatboy,if you lug it at high gear its bound to knock.Its a common phenomenon.
About the knocking,i guess it happens when you try to "ROLL ON".
PS-i have finished the runnin on my 220,maybe u can have a td when we meet?

i clocked a speedo read of 130 + kmph tonight...

not just once but 3 times, either my CDI is gone kaput or my speedo is gone crazy...
is it possible ?

So i got my tires changed over the weekend. Thanks to you all for the suggestions.

I got the M35 for the front and Sirac Street for the rear. Both in stock sizes. Now the bike does not tramline on bad roads and is very stable on straights.

I only have one doubt. The sirac on the rear has button type treads and is more rounded which makes my bike feel like its tipping over when i am negotiating a turn. Earlier the bike was running on factory fitted TVS tires which was more of a "flat" tire on the edges. I could corner harder and faster with more lean angle earlier, but now the bike feels more eager to lean and is not stable through the turn... maybe i just have to get used to it.

Any thoughts?

You still trust magazines. In my entire STOCK ownership of the Fiero I dont think it has done more than a true 110, a stock Fiero fizzles out after 85, it is so slow after that, I mean it takes ages to cross 100.

Just wanted to share ...
~6yrs old, ~90k on odo, stock engine and bike. I(90+kg weight) managed to clock 111km/hr (in 720m) on the speed gun. Below a friend clocked 107km/hr (in 540m) on the speed gun.

v1107 by NomadicNav, on Flickr

@Nav:- I was expecting you to post this snap.
It has been around 4+years since I started riding the big bore bike, I don't even recall how the stock bike feels like now. Should meet up with some stock Fiero guy for a ride.

@gixxer :- any one with a stock Fiero around?

@Nav:- I was expecting you to post this snap.
It has been around 4+years since I started riding the big bore bike, I don't even recall how the stock bike feels like now. Should meet up with some stock Fiero guy for a ride.

@gixxer :- any one with a stock Fiero around?

Just wanted to share ...
~6yrs old, ~90k on odo, stock engine and bike. I(90+kg weight) managed to clock 111km/hr (in 720m) on the speed gun. Below a friend clocked 107km/hr (in 540m) on the speed gun.

v1107 by NomadicNav, on Flickr

@Nav:- I was expecting you to post this snap.
It has been around 4+years since I started riding the big bore bike, I don't even recall how the stock bike feels like now. Should meet up with some stock Fiero guy for a ride.

@gixxer :- any one with a stock Fiero around?

So i got my tires changed over the weekend. Thanks to you all for the suggestions.

I got the M35 for the front and Sirac Street for the rear. Both in stock sizes. Now the bike does not tramline on bad roads and is very stable on straights.

I only have one doubt. The sirac on the rear has button type treads and is more rounded which makes my bike feel like its tipping over when i am negotiating a turn. Earlier the bike was running on factory fitted TVS tires which was more of a "flat" tire on the edges. I could corner harder and faster with more lean angle earlier, but now the bike feels more eager to lean and is not stable through the turn... maybe i just have to get used to it.

Any thoughts?

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Actually I feel rounded types are better for cornering. They offer more surface contact with the road. I guess you need to get used to the new shoes. You might find them better as you ride more.

One thing I have noticed... The bike really behaves differently with weather changes. Last evening we had rains... cold with biting chilly winds with snows in places. The bike took few more kicks to start. it turned off by itself and I had to play with the ideling screw. This morning I noticed more white smoke... which was not there for two days as the weather was warmer. But the ride felt good and the bike felt more punchy with more power.