@Sarvajit

The pic was posted by remortr.This should make things clear ,you would have to change the packing,gasket and put 2bond paste to seal up the oil leaks.Your engine is fine ,meaning it hasn't come to bore and it's not leaking oil through the valve train.So the only things needed is to seal up the oil leaking issues.
Clutch cover is the other side of the crank case.

@Sarvajit

In the above pic :-

Block 3 = Bore
Block 2= Head(valve train,cam)
Block 1= Cam cover(rocker arms)

Yes, its clear now-thanks.
He was telling me that the oil seal (where you have written paste) comes as a press fit type.
I will contact you again.

no wonder.
i knew it was giving in a lot of fuel, more than one complete revolution of the fuel screw from 0 (completely closed) literally SHUTS THE ENGINE OFF even with an absence of the one of the foams, + the air filter panel opened up...
its really a lot, i don't feel a bigger carb is needed, or even up-jetting is needed...

you can go in for michellins.
as gixxer mentioned, don't put up the rear one on the front.
i myself use a dunlop monster btw.
go for 100/90 tyre at the rear, michellins are the most rounded ones and vishal uses them.
even dunlop is good, as mine is working very well, but still even i wish for michellins.
i suggest change both of them, and put same series at both the places, like for example michellin Sirac Street up front and rear.
of cource with 2.75 and 3.25 sizes, or so on...

and which rear tyre are you using currently which you plan to put up front ??


he would be quoting the cost of the OIL SEAL not the packing sealant.
that black round thing (which i bought more than 10 around last 2 months) written TVS tru 4 of something is called the oil seal.
the fitting is to be done using a paste called THREEBOND...
which means the head and the head cover will be joined using THREEBOND...

My sincere apologies to the TCI/IDI system !!

Today i changed the main-jet back to 125 size again and went for a ride on the open roads.The bike feels as though it has more grunt,the exhaust beat has become deeper and louder and the engine has gained noticeable urgency throughout the rev range.
Just out of curiosity i made the spark jump,boy does it look different !! compared to the CDI it looks like a welding torch!!
Thanks psr, i must say,it's been a change for the better.

Mr Murthy from Zen is a very good friend of mine and I have even advised them on an occasion that the UC32 wont fit. On the 205cc RTR, I'm planning to modify the chassis to accomodate the 32 next coz its seriously restricting a lot of power. The cam wakes up after 8000rpm and needs enough flow to help it rev till 12500rpm. Also the manifold inner dia of the Fiero/RTR160/180 (which is basically all the same) wont accomodate the larger mouth of the UC32. Its a lot of work.

Yes joel i meet Mr Murthy quite often and he talks about the modifications a lot especially of the days, when there were lot of things happening there ,like the v-twin etc.Yeah ,when i saw the "bigger-carb" being specified on the ghost RTR thread, i seriously assumed it must be the 32mm one.Knowing your work , i am not at all surprised that the 29mm one is doing so well.

The v-twin was one of our old projects at Zen. My fiero 200 and my other projects ran for a good 4 yrs. Things have moved on since then. He is a gem of a guy.
I made it very dramatic by not mentioning the carb size on the RTR 205 thread, coz it was an under-rated carb for that engine, but I had no option to shov at that point. My drag RTR runs very radical stuffs now and the frame is all custom and I can accomodate whatever I need. So the RTR will also need to go thru a serious surgery to exploit next levels of fuelling. It could be the UC32 or something else. Some 2-3hp is hiding just coz of the induction being underfed.

I am Glad my suggestion had worked and you are getting better performance.

[QUOTE=NANOtechnology;525231]

you can go in for michellins.
as gixxer mentioned, don't put up the rear one on the front.
i myself use a dunlop monster btw.
go for 100/90 tyre at the rear, michellins are the most rounded ones and vishal uses them.
even dunlop is good, as mine is working very well, but still even i wish for michellins.
i suggest change both of them, and put same series at both the places, like for example michellin Sirac Street up front and rear.
of cource with 2.75 and 3.25 sizes, or so on...

and which rear tyre are you using currently which you plan to put up front ??

================================================== ===

Thanks Nano for the reply.

I am using a regular TVS 125 tyre for the rear. It is about the same size front stock tyre. So I think it will go well with the front. I just intend to put a fatter rear tyre. I guess Michellin Sirac Street or Dunlop 100 / 90 will be good. I see some of the Unis have Dunlop Geo Cruiser 100 / 90 and I kind of liked the pattern too. I basically want an all purpose tyre ... for the street as well as for the rough / wet / muddy terrain. It has to be durable too.

Yes Mr Murthy speaks highly of you and Venugopal .I have seen quite a few modified fiero/RTR's catching dust there,but last month i saw rajesh preparing the v-twin.Is the four valve Fiero head prepared by you and Venugopal still around? and when will one of your Fiero or RTR will get the same treatment? The 4 valve head was from Lazer?

Coming back to the RTR205, has the 29mm carb caused restrictions in port size,valve size and bend pipe dia size? Or have you gone with sizes suiting a bigger carb?

Chief If you feel like it ,go for it.The speedo will be giving wrong numbers ,but if you are not worried about it much .Then you can fit the rear tyre to the front.It will make the steering feel heavy and handling might be affected a bit.But other than that,there's no harm in it.

I was inspecting an Apache RTR 180 today and it seems like the carb is the same 29mm one as in the Fiero. I maybe wrong there, but it looked exactly the same. I guess the jets might be bigger or something. What is the jet size in a 29 mm Fiero carb?

An update
My bike is doing good now... I can feel the grunt and the pick-up has increased. The exhaust note is sweetly powerful. The only thing is that I have to go for regular chain tightening visits to the mech. I guess the new chain and sprockets have a tendency to become loose much sooner than the stock ones. Also the tank has started leaking slightly and I have to go for a gas welding job soon. It had leaked previously too, which the mech did some patching and it worked ... but now I guess a proper gas welding job is required.

tyres for the fiero

front-m35 stock size 2.75 i presume
rear-m45 4.00 or lesser

Using this combo on my bike.

I strongly recommend the m45 as its too light in weight.Using it in my unicorn
Ps-m45 is not recommended for the rear,its known to cause wobbling

I've also been thinking of tyre replacement for my Fiero F2.
Stock sizes of the Fiero are 2.75&3.00*18", whereas in case of the F2, the front remains the same, but rear is 90/90/18". 90/90/18" is midway between 3.00&100/90/18", the latter I'm running on my bike currently-Dunlop GeoCruiser.
After having tried out the above, I have been thinking whether to go in for a smaller 3.00*18" (76.2mm.)for which tubes will be easily available, or for a 3.25*18"(82.5mm) for which tubes may not be so easily available.
Have a look at this link, which shows that 90/90/18" translates to around 81mm. and by that logic 3.00*18" will come to 82.5mm which is very close (100/90/18" is around 90mm.so off the mark there): Motorcycle Tire Sizes - webBikeWorld
There is one MRF Zapper Q, which is available in 90/90/18" stock spec, but not readily available. Even if I order for it, tubes will be an issue later on. So unable to decide. Michelin has 3.25"18" in M45 which is a really good tyre. But there again availability of 3.25*18" is an issue.
What do you suggest? I don't want to go for TVS tyres in anycase!