Hi chief sorry to hear this....There is a saying that the NUT(driver) behind the wheel , is the most dangerous part in a vehicle....Sorry to see it come true in your case.If the swelling gets big in your leg you may have to suspect fracture(praying it is not so)...Take good rest..to-morrow you will have leg and body pain due to the injury and shock....
Take care..GET WELL SOON friend.

Cool, thanks for the info. So that means Rs.850 for camchain+400 for tensioner at next service. I rode the bike for about 2-300kms.over the weekend&the chain is really rattling a lot, though the bike goes real smooth engine wise!

I am also interested in getting the P135 switches. Can they be installed onto our bike? You are the only one who can find out this.
IIRC, the backlit switches remain on, like the Neutral light, even when the engine is not on, but the ignition is on, i.e., DC. So where are these going to draw current from? Is there some extra wiring inside the switch itself?
For the 3 step headlight, what if we make a setting by which in 1st position the headlamp comes on in low beam&in 2nd, in high beam?
Then what will happen to the pass light?
I expect answers from you only for these buddy.

Congos buddy!

Take it easy bro and get some rest.The fact is ,not everything's in our hands ,so think of yourself as lucky and thank your favorite goddess for it.Don't forget to get her some flowers on your next visit to her.

@ chief

Sorry to hear about the crash buddy.
I hope its just a minor swelling.
Get well soon.

@ Vishal

Where's your update ?????

@ Sarvajit

Yes those p135 switches can be installed, infact ONLY those from all the pulsar series can be installed as they are analogue type and not contactless like p150 and so on until p220.
and they do not work like the neutral light as in not always ON, they switch ON when the pilot lamps are turned ON.
Being LEDs they should draw the power from the battery, there might be a relay inside to keep the backlights ON, maybe a chip to tap voltage from the battery in the already connected wire, I'll let you know for sure by the evening.

Those 3 step ON button isn't for high and low beam (Not like splendor)
0 is for headlight OFF
1 is for pilot lamps ON
2 is for the main headlight ON

and we have the typical high/low beam selection on the left side.
Pass again works on its own irrelevant of the beam selection and the ON/OFF of the headlamp.

I might not install them, as the engine kill switch is the other way around, upside is for engine OFF and downside for engine ON.

Thanks for the info. I'm waiting for the rest of the info from you by tomorrow.

I have some queries regarding your initial info.:
1. Do you mean to say that the Pass light will work with the headlights on? It doesn't in our F2 as you know.
2. Since we have only 2 stage headlight switch in our bike, what will happen on stage 1 with P135 switch assembly?
3. Will the backlit LEDs be on like the neutral light, even when the engine is not on, or do we have to switch the engine on&put it to parking lamp mode for that?

Oh btw, the engine kill switch is in the conventional position as in our bike&others. I just checked it out at my office parking lot!
But the entire switch assembly is real huge, compared to other bikes.
Do let me know about the relay thing as well. I'm eager to try it out.

Hey Chief. Get well soon buddy & take care.

Thanks for all the wishes and Sorry to keep you all waiting.

I got the delivery of the new bike & rode straight to office .

To know more about the bike, you will have to wait till evening, as I will go home & post the pictures & write up.

Please hold on to your horses .

Those who know which bike I bought, please keep the secret with you.


Thanks
Vishal

Sorry for the long wait guys.

After waiting for 3 months, finally today I got my Silver Karizma R. Will post the pictures soon. Currently there seems some error in uploading the file.


Vishal

Congrats on your bike...Here in Chennai the waiting period is 4to 5 months.
Ride safe .

Pass light works irrelevant of the headlamp being ON or OFF, if we've selected low beam and use the pass light, it either switches OFF the low beam and switches on the high beam, or keeps the low beam ON and still switch on the high beam (Both the filaments)
in case of an OFF headlamp, it just switches ON the high beam.
Bottomline is, unlike F2, the pass switch will work even if the headlamp is ON.

If you wish to keep everything stock, you can forget 3 stages of the switch, and use only 2 stages, i.e stage 1 and stage 3.
If you wish you can route the switch backlight to the battery directly on ignition (similar to neutral), that's what i am going to do, either ways LED works only on DC and not on AC.

i happened to feel the switches first hand as there's 3 p135's under my complex, and your right they are huge, maybe because of the extra relays inside them, would go well with the FZ's handlebar.
Its confirmed that p135 does not have a BCU, which means that the switches are definitely analogue types, and SHOULD fit and work well.

Its no rocket science buddy, find a mech who can so this for you.

@ Vishal

Clocked 50 kms in 1st day itself (that too when you were busy in the office all day) !!!
am sure you'll finish your RUN-IN period in 1-2 week's time.
I am starting to envy all you new bike owners with 220+ CC engines.

@ Rakesh

YES this counts you too.
i remember that day you were saying that i have the max cubic capacity bike (180cc), when you rode a Uni and Vishal rode a Fiero.
Today its my turn to say that i am the weakest of the lot.

Congos buddy! Did you get the new version with the Ahem! Newer stickering?
Why I'm asking is, I heard they are giving an MF battery+tubeless tyres. That would be a great addition. At present, the most VFM bike for touring&city usage. Choice well made!

Roger that mate.

Ok, got this too. Do you mean stage 0 and stage 2? So what will stage 1 work for then-dead like the starter button?

I understood. So if I do not reroute, can I have stage 1 working with the ignition on, but not engine on? i.e., I want the backlit switches to be on with the ignition on, when I put them to stage 1. I guess this is the default Pulsar behavior, right?

Thanks a lot. But you have still not told me about the relay-could you check that?
Now the only thing left is where are these backlit switches drawing their power from?
I understood about the analogue type, so they are 12V&should work fine.
Now, one last question-does the bike having DC or AC electricals make a difference to these switches?
Pardon my ignorance about these electrical issues, you are the king here.
Please install them quickly&post a review! I will immediately jump at it then.

Good choice,it's a very reliable and smooth performer.

Dont worry buddy as the saying goes "yevery dog has aday" some day you will ride a 500cc up bike when we will be still riding our 220cc machines.
@vishal-congos buddy,when are you swapping out the tyres to the M45?

[QUOTE=imjoshee;571283]Hey Chief. Get well soon buddy & take care.


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Thanks to All of You guys, for your feelings... I'm alright... just wanted to take a day off to laze around in the afternoon sunlight. Bike's alright after straightening the leg guard.

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Vishal bro. Congratulations on the new Karisma. It's a great bike.

@NANOtechnology: I found the spare part nos.of the P135 switch assemblies from here: http://winauto.terapad.com/resources/35263/assets/documents/PULSAR135LSSPC.pdf

Can you please find out the price of the switch assemblies, i.e., part no. JF 4014 00 and JF 4014 01?
From the blow-up diagram, it doesn't look like any other wire is needed. Maybe you can check in the electrical diagram given in the same document?

I confirmed with nin from the P135 thread that they are not self-cancelling type, i.e., analogue. So we can go ahead, once we figure out what to do about the choke lever, provided the relay is built into the same switch assembly&powered by the same wire that runs to the switch.

I'm waiting for your update about the choke lever, and relay too!

[QUOTE=chief ashman;572668]chief take care man and get well soon,as the ceat tyre ad says roads are full of idiots.