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**P3T3R** · 09-17-2016, 10:28 PM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Took the bike for a short spin today with the stock carb and exhaust. Didn't rev it too much as the engine needs to run in. It's immediately felt more powerful than the stock but was feeling a bit starved/suffocated. Hopefully the re-jetting and exhaust job will do the trick. Will try and pick up the RTR exhaust on monday. Scrap yard is quoting 1500 but mechanic said max 1000. The Electric start is also working. Still waiting for the Pulsar forks and Disk brake unit. Planning on picking up a Victor GLX Tank and swing arm from the same scrapyard who is arranging the Pulsar forks and disk. Asked him to search for a Pulsar 180 carb too.

**NANOtechnology** · 09-19-2016, 04:58 AM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

[MENTION=47680]P3T3R[/MENTION]
Do get the resonator removed from the rtr exhaust.

**P3T3R** · 09-19-2016, 10:37 AM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post

@P3T3R
Do get the resonator removed from the rtr exhaust.

What's a resonator? The mechanic is planning to use the bend pipe and the internals only of the RTR silencer. This is to maintain the stock look of the bike.

**NANOtechnology** · 09-20-2016, 07:48 AM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

[MENTION=47680]P3T3R[/MENTION]

Sorry for late reply.
Tried finding the pic online, as well as one of my old uploaded pictures, but couldn't.

Its a rectangle shaped canister attached to the bend pipe of the exhaust used to cut a bit of the 'free-flow ness'
You'll know when you see the exhaust.

I wonder how the mechanic will play around with the baffle, would love to see pictures when its done.

**P3T3R** · 09-30-2016, 11:55 PM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

There were some issues with fitting the RTR silencer. It's not fitting the opening in the head. Tried searching for other bend pipes but couldn't find any. Tomorrow will try and see if some fabricator can cut the original bend pipe and fit a 32 mm one. Also will be getting the PUC done for transferring it to my name.

Meanwhile still hunting for the disk brake assembly. I found the following:
1. Suzuki Zeus entire fork and assembly but caliper missing and resevior damaged.
2. F2 forks with mounting holes for disk but corroded tubes.
3. F2 forks drum version with good condition tubes
4. CBZ (old) forks and disk assembly
5. Hunk forks, disk assembly and alloys
6. Pulsar forks, disk assembly and alloys

Mechanic is adamant on fitting only Pulsar spoke version assembly. His excuse is that the sprocket will be different and a stock Fiero sprocket cannot be fitted on the alloys.

**NANOtechnology** · 10-03-2016, 02:32 PM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

[MENTION=47680]P3T3R[/MENTION]

If the stock rtr exhaust is not fitting at the head, it implies that you are not using an rtr head.

Fiero & rtr have different exhaust outlets on its head, i too had to alter the mouth of my rtr exhaust to fit it on the fiero head.

Also, i am finding it difficult to understand how does sprocketing an issue if you are working on the front wheel.

**NANOtechnology** · 10-03-2016, 02:33 PM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

[MENTION=47680]P3T3R[/MENTION]

If the stock rtr exhaust is not fitting at the head, it implies that you are not using an rtr head.

Fiero & rtr have different exhaust outlets on its head, i too had to alter the mouth of my rtr exhaust to fit it on the fiero head.

Also, i am finding it difficult to understand how does sprocketing an issue if you are working on the front wheel.

**P3T3R** · 10-04-2016, 08:06 AM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post

@P3T3R

If the stock rtr exhaust is not fitting at the head, it implies that you are not using an rtr head.

Fiero & rtr have different exhaust outlets on its head, i too had to alter the mouth of my rtr exhaust to fit it on the fiero head.

I will have to check this out.

Edit: We checked it out. The stock silencer fits but is loose while the RTR one is too tight. This means the head is probably of the 160. Mechanic says the head was matching the bore. Since the difference in bore between the 180 and 160 is just 0.5 mm it probably looked like it was matching. In any case I'm putting a 32 mm bend pipe and the fabricate will match the end to the exhaust port. Can someone post a pic of the outlet of the megaphone as I need to know what size opening is needed there. I think Gixxer has done this.

Also, i am finding it difficult to understand how does sprocketing an issue if you are working on the front wheel.

Only an issue with the rear wheel if I opt for the Pulsar Alloy set up.

Edit: Just found a spoked Pulsar and I'm picking up the entire front end for 3K. The disk rotor will need to be changed and the caliper will have to be overhauled or changed. The F2 which came in was the drum version so useless. I have picked up the instrument cluster. I tried returning the RTR silencer but the scrap guy is refusing to take it.

**octane_fx** · 10-05-2016, 12:47 PM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Team / Anyone ,
i am planning to buy a 2004 Fiero FX , the bike is in a beat up condition from the looks stand point but engine has no issues , power is good and i like the bike ,
the question i have is ?

1) I need to know what is the min and max bore piston kit i can install on this bike without any major mods ,
2) if there is any chance of installing a 5th gear without breaking a bank ,
Many Thanks ,

**P3T3R** · 10-05-2016, 04:56 PM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Originally posted by octane_fx View Post

Team / Anyone ,
i am planning to buy a 2004 Fiero FX ,

Try to find a Classic Fiero instead.

the bike is in a beat up condition

Should not be a problem if you are ok with either:
- Hunting for parts like panels etc in scrapyards
- Using parts of other bikes

from the looks stand point but engine has no issues , power is good and i like the bike ,

Then why do you have question No.1.

1) I need to know what is the min and max bore piston kit i can install on this bike without any major mods ,

RTR 180 bore kit is the easiest. Read the thread. Many have done it. I am the most recent one.

2) if there is any chance of installing a 5th gear without breaking a bank ,
Many Thanks ,

Find the bottom end of an Apache engine.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Originally posted by P3T3R View Post

Here the latest update

1. Buy the Bike: This should be happening today. - That happened a while ago

2. General Service: Get the bike working as a stock bike should so I can ride and enjoy it for a while in stock form before doing any mods. This will also include as much de-rusting as possible of the chrome and paint touch up of painted parts followed by a polish. - Irrelevant as the bike is now 180 cc 5 Speed

3. Front Disk Brake: As per this thread, I can either go for the F2 unit on the LHS or an Apache unit on the RHS, of course using the F2 hub as I would want to retain the spoked wheels. However I may also consider alloys if i can get a set cheap. What if I go with the Pulsar disk with the Pulsar fork lower tubes. Is it possible and more importantly is it cheaper than the F2 or Apache units? - Picked up a complete Pulsar Classic front end.

4. Fairing: The original fairing is missing and replaced by a round dome. My options are; Retain the dome, put an original fairing, or put some other fairing like that of the Flame or Apache. Please suggest. - Sticking with the Pulsar Dome as I got the mounts etc with the front end I picked up yesterday.

5. Swingarm: This will be done only when the chain is due for changing. My options are the Victor GX, Victor GLX or Apache RTR 160 swingarms. Please suggest. How about the Honda Unicorn's with a monoshock conversion. - Have a Victor GLX and Fiero F2 swing arm at 2 scrapyards.

6. Tachometer: I intend retaining the original speedo so want a separate tacho unit. Please suggest. - Plan scrapped. Picked up a Fiero F2 unit yesterday.

7. Tyres: For the moment shortlisted the Michelin Sirac Street if I'm retaining the spokes. Anything better you can suggest? - On hold

8. Alloys: If and only if something cheap comes by. How much does a set of Apache alloys cost. Can the ones from a Pulsar be fitted? Whats the cost? Any other options. Alloys means most certainly switching to 17" so tyres will need to be decided accordingly. - In view of the update to point No.3, this becomes irrelevant.

9. Big Bore: Either the Apache 180 or 200 bores and pistons or rebore with a Pulsar 220 piston. Either stock head with some mods or buy the head of the 180/200. Again here cost is a factor so need to select a cheaper option. - Already done and running a Apache 180 RTR bore.

10. BS29 Carburettor: From the Pulsar 200. - Still hunting for one. For the moment will do rejecting of the existing carb.

11. Oil Cooler: Someone has already done it on an Apache here, so I'll just follow the same procedure. Not very expensive too. - Mechanic not keen on doing it. Will try some other mechanic after rest of the jobs are complete.

12. Paint job: Most probably metallic blue with just the Suzuki and Fiero decals like the first Fiero. The Fiero is further to the rear as compared to the later models with the additional graphics (See photo). Second option is the same theme in black but with a contrasting chassis in orange/blue/red. - My sticker guy is working on a cool theme and will suggest the paint job to go with his sticker concept.

13. Clutch / Crankcase covers: This bike is a TVS so the LHS cover is blank and the RHS has TVS. Looking to replace these with the Suzuki ones (See photo). Where can I source them from? - The bike now has Apache covers. LHS is blank and RHS has TVS. Plan is to just grind off the TVS. Have got 2 small "S" and "Suzuki" badges from Aliexpress. Plan is to fix the "SUZUKI" on either side and then paint the engine so it looks like its embossed.

14. 5-Speed Conversion: If and when I find an Apache Engine or at least the bottom half of it. This actually makes point no.12 pointless. - Done

I had also purchased a RTR 180 exhaust but it's not fitting. The head is probably 160 thats why. Will be shortly putting a 32 mm SS custom bend pipe and increasing the opening on the stock megaphone. While the engine mod was done I also got the electric starter fitted.

So to summarise the pending jobs are:
- Exhaust bend pipe and outlet mod.
- Disk Brake fitting
- Instrument console fitting.
- Carb swap / re-jetting
- Paint job
- Oil Cooler

**gixxer_junkie_m** · 10-05-2016, 06:18 PM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Originally posted by P3T3R View Post

I will have to check this out.

Edit: We checked it out. The stock silencer fits but is loose while the RTR one is too tight. This means the head is probably of the 160. Mechanic says the head was matching the bore. Since the difference in bore between the 180 and 160 is just 0.5 mm it probably looked like it was matching. In any case I'm putting a 32 mm bend pipe and the fabricate will match the end to the exhaust port. Can someone post a pic of the outlet of the megaphone as I need to know what size opening is needed there. I think Gixxer has done this.

Only an issue with the rear wheel if I opt for the Pulsar Alloy set up.

Edit: Just found a spoked Pulsar and I'm picking up the entire front end for 3K. The disk rotor will need to be changed and the caliper will have to be overhauled or changed. The F2 which came in was the drum version so useless. I have picked up the instrument cluster. I tried returning the RTR silencer but the scrap guy is refusing to take it.

I had also purchased a RTR 180 exhaust but it's not fitting. The head is probably 160 thats why. Will be shortly putting a 32 mm SS custom bend pipe and increasing the opening on the stock megaphone. While the engine mod was done I also got the electric starter fitted.

So to summarise the pending jobs are:
- Exhaust bend pipe and outlet mod.
- Disk Brake fitting
- Instrument console fitting.
- Carb swap / re-jetting
- Paint job
- Oil Cooler

Just like we had discussed earlier,it would be better that you get a bend-pipe custom made and then get the whole silencer chromed.The steel bend-pipe cost me 750 bucks,which included fabricating a new collar to fit the RTR160- head. The welding,silencer dude did all the things,that is he procured a bend-pipe in with the 32 mm inner dia from a pipe bending workshop,that is,they do silencer work only.Then he got the collar fabricated at a lathe,then he welded this collar to the bend-pipe.This also needed modification as well,as a stock RTR 180,or 160 won't be able to take a 32mm inner dia bend-pipe.He welded it to the megaphonic silencer.So, the entire thing ,including welding labor came to 750 bucks,which is very cheap,because i was with him through the entire process and i knew the guy.So it might cost a bit more for you.But it will be well worth it in the end. Then for getting the entire silencer chromed,cost me 1,100 bucks.Which is once again a neatly done job.Why i am saying this is,because ,this new bend-pipe won't have a inner pipe,which all other stock bikes have,meaning there will be lot more heat faced by the bend-pipe as there won't be a air gap,which will be there in the case of a inner pipe being there. So there can be discoloration in the chrome finish from the heat,as can be seen with race bike bend-pipes.So the chrome work has to be good and powder coating simply won't last in this set-up.

Next thing you have to do is to put a additional hole in the baffle of the silencer,this is done to increase the flow and make it as free flowing as possible.There's a baffle inside which is about 4 inch deep from the end-pipe cap. Then you have to put a 26 mm end-pipe onto the cap,that is increase the end-pipe dia. The length of this end-pipe and it's dia will make a huge difference in terms of the sound.You can literally control the bass and volume of the beats.

As it is,The RTR cam ensures a deeper bassy beat in comparison to stock fiero. I will post it's pic.

If you put a 32mm inner dia bend-pipe,then you will lose out on the bottom-end torque.I've noticed this change very clearly on my bike.Since you are now riding with a stock fiero bend-pipe ,which has 18mm inner dia,the change in bottom end torque loss will be felt dramatically,especially when a pillion is there.But you will get used to it soon. So think about it.

**P3T3R** · 10-06-2016, 04:33 PM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post

Just like we had discussed earlier,it would be better that you get a bend-pipe custom made and then get the whole silencer chromed.

I'm getting it done in Stainless Steel. So no chroming.

The steel bend-pipe cost me 750 bucks,which included fabricating a new collar to fit the RTR160- head. The welding,silencer dude did all the things,that is he procured a bend-pipe in with the 32 mm inner dia from a pipe bending workshop,that is,they do silencer work only.Then he got the collar fabricated at a lathe,then he welded this collar to the bend-pipe.This also needed modification as well,as a stock RTR 180,or 160 won't be able to take a 32mm inner dia bend-pipe.He welded it to the megaphonic silencer.

The guy doing the job will do the needful to make it fit he said.

Next thing you have to do is to put a additional hole in the baffle of the silencer,this is done to increase the flow and make it as free flowing as possible.There's a baffle inside which is about 4 inch deep from the end-pipe cap. Then you have to put a 26 mm end-pipe onto the cap,that is increase the end-pipe dia. The length of this end-pipe and it's dia will make a huge difference in terms of the sound.You can literally control the bass and volume of the beats.

As it is,The RTR cam ensures a deeper bassy beat in comparison to stock fiero. I will post it's pic.

Please post a pic and a sketch as I'm not able to clearly understand this.

If you put a 32mm inner dia bend-pipe,then you will lose out on the bottom-end torque.I've noticed this change very clearly on my bike.Since you are now riding with a stock fiero bend-pipe ,which has 18mm inner dia,the change in bottom end torque loss will be felt dramatically,especially when a pillion is there.But you will get used to it soon. So think about it.

I'm ok with this.

**dj_666** · 10-08-2016, 09:51 AM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post

Apache 150's head is similar to that of the fiero,in the sense that the bore size is similar.But the rtr's have bigger bore and hence the valves are set farther from that of the apache150/fiero.So their rockers should be different and the same goes for the cam as well i think.

[MENTION=13389]gixxer_junkie_m[/MENTION]: learnt a lot from your posts here. Very grateful to you for sharing.

A humble contribution from my side:

Fiero F2 x RTR180 head comparision

1. Cylinder head

2.

3.Intake manifold side port.

4. Exhaust outlet port.

5. Valves

6. Camshaft

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Best regards,
dj_666
Motorcraft

**gixxer_junkie_m** · 10-09-2016, 07:41 PM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Originally posted by P3T3R View Post

Please post a pic and a sketch as I'm not able to clearly understand this.

In the crudely drawn diagram.

1 is the baffle,which is colored in red.

2. is the silencer end-cap.Which is colored blue.

3. Is the expansion chamber.Which is shown in grey.

4. is the baffle plate's stock pipe.In yellow.

5. is the hole which you have to make in the baffle plate.Shown in green color.

6. is the end-cap's 26 mm dia modified end-pipe.Once again shown in green color.

Hope the diagram helps.
[MENTION=10682]dj_666[/MENTION]

Thanks bro,that's a very informative compilation.Do keep participating in the discussions.

**P3T3R** · 10-10-2016, 01:41 PM

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post

[ATTACH]219983[/ATTACH]

In the crudely drawn diagram.

1 is the baffle,which is colored in red.

2. is the silencer end-cap.Which is colored blue.

Understood.

3. Is the expansion chamber.Which is shown in grey.

No alterations to this right?

4. is the baffle plate's stock pipe.In yellow.

5. is the hole which you have to make in the baffle plate.Shown in green color.

So is this an additional hole you need to make next to the original hole or do you just increase the original hole.

6. is the end-cap's 26 mm dia modified end-pipe.Once again shown in green color.
.

So we just have to increase the dia to 26 mm right?

The diagram shows the expansion chamber ends into the megaphone and there is a baffle plate and end cap with pieces of pipe. Are these 26mm pipes just welded to the baffle plates and end cap respectively or is it a continuous 26mm pipe running from the end of the expansion chamber till the end cap?

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