Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

Yes. I agree.. I meant to say I can ride bike in any extreme temperature.. I have done it too.. Frozen ride back after 3 hrs of playing with snow in Rohtang in the month of October and well... You know the other ride to Coimbatore from Delhi in the month of June.. Scorching heat..

But I choose to keep my wife off those extreme conditions.

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

Perfect! No need to act stupid. If I go to my office in the afternoon, I make sure I am propery covered. The front part of balaclava be wet and I am hydrated enough. But If I am taking mom somewhere in the afternoon I hire a cab. No excuse for not having a car at home by saying I love to ride my bike and will do it no matter my mum suffers.

In Batman's style: The Helmet is not for you; It's to protect the people you care about.

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

Its great to be a college student , where I can ride my bike all day , and no worry on my gf - she rides her scooter !! - Yahoo situation ! .

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

You won't understand the joy we get when buying and riding a bike off our hard earned money. Apart from that, I got my wifey a RayZ which she rides.. But I asked her not to take it de to the scorching heat.. There is a Huge difference between a GF and a Wife.. With GFs, you have choice.. With a Wife, you have no choice.. but then, I am a happily married guy..

P.S. arranged marriage..

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

Spoken like my Dad !! .

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

Guys this is really important

1. What are the symptoms of loose tappets - noise / characteristic - pickup,etc
2. What happens if someone rides with a loose tappets .

Helpppp please.

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

Tik tik noise once the engine heats up.
Mildly loose tappets are ok, ensure they're never tighter than needed.
Slight reduction in performance is warranted.

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

I have never been able to pick that tappet noise, Can say I am deaf to that. But I ensure I get it checked frequently from seniors in xbhp or good mechanics or even in worst case SVCs. Loose tappets for long-run is harmful. Also make sure u get tappets tightened with the help of gauge. 0.10 mm exactly. Not less not more. If you tighten them you will face engine stalling and white smoke. Eventually the valves will get bent. Learnt this the hard way

In Batman's style: The Helmet is not for you; It's to protect the people you care about.

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

Thanks a lot . In case of reduction of performance will pickup gets hit ?

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Thanks a ton !

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

WHAT IS THIS ? TWIN ? I have one in my wheels .

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)


That is wheel balance..

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

Sorry for the noob query sir, what exactly does it do and why is it not found on every bike??
I mean my cousin's shine has it but my R15 doesn't. Why so??

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

First of all. No Sir!! Well.. I am really not sure.. But from what I understand, the wheels need balancing.. Some wheels don't require balancing and some do. Those seen on the pic are weights.. They probably weigh 10g..

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

Cool, thanks for the info .

Re: Hero Karizma ZMR (2014 version)

A wheel comes balanced from factory. This may or may not include the small weight attached to the rim.

Based upon the usage pattern, this default balance goes for a toss.
The problem is unequal weight developing on the rim of the wheel or tire.
As the wheel turns, spinning forces exaggerate this imbalance and make the wheel oscillate at speed, like an old fan. This can be felt as loose or wobbly steering at speed and harsh vibrations.

As the wheel tries to wobble itself out of alignment, vibrations make their way through the wheel spindle, which in turn stresses the wheel bearings, leading to premature wear. There’s also the danger that excessive vibrations could loosen various fasteners around the bike. Tires will also run hotter as the contact patch squirms and this leads to uneven wear.

Balancing the wheels is hence is necessary and remarkably easy to do, albeit not well versed with the mechs in India. The idea is to counteract the weight causing any imbalance by adding more weight directly opposite the heaviest point of the wheel to counter-balance it. Attaching small weights to the rim, where the effect of centrifugal force is greatest, achieves this.

These weights usually come as 5 gm and 10 gm units and are stuck to keep them in place. Classic bike owners prefer lumps of lead/solder wrapped around the spokes. Motocross wheels are very rarely balanced as they use security clamps in the rim to hold the tire on which are virtually impossible to counter-balance.

How to correctly balance the wheel:
P.S - To balance a wheel, you must first remove any existing wheel weights from the rim.

1. With the wheel set on the balancing machine, position the air valve at the very top and gently spin the wheel – not too fast, but with enough force for the wheel to complete four to five revolutions. If too much force has been used, one can slow the wheel down by applying finger pressure on the tire.

2. When the wheel comes to rest, mark the position of the lowest (technically, heaviest) point of the wheel with a piece of chalk. We'll call this 'point A'.
Now, with the wheel in the same position, mark the highest point of the wheel – this is the lightest point, or the ‘counter balance point’ .We’ll call it ‘point B’. Take one 10 gm weight (available online/tire shops) and place it on the rim at point B – secure with tape only, as you may need to add or remove the weight.

3. Set the wheel with point A at the 3 or 9 o’clock position and let go (don't rotate). If the added weight at point B goes back to the top, and point A back to the bottom, you need to add more weight – say 10 gm – to point B and repeat the procedure. If point B goes to the bottom, you need to reduce the added weight.

4. This is achieved when, if point A is set at 3 or 9 o’clock, it doesn’t move. Once you have got to this point, gently spin the wheel so it spins 2-3 revolutions. When it comes to a halt, point A should be in a completely different position to where it was originally. If unsure, spin the wheel again. If successful, you’ll have a balanced wheel.

5. Remove the tape holding the weights in place and wipe the wheel rim at point B clean using any cleaning agent, and attach the weights (they sometimes come with a self adhesive back surface. If not, using an industrial adhesive is advised). Tap gently in place with a hammer for a secure fix. If the total added weight is over 25 to 30 gm, divide the weight equally and place either side of the rim.

I hope this answers your question @Dipan12.