Yes when you go over bumps in speed, sometimes tyre hugger gets hitted to number plate due to soft suspension. Solution is to make suspension more tighter
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
Collapse
X
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
Thanks for the tip but can you help me with specific points of where to use that tape. A photo will be greatOriginally posted by bikersdream View PostFor battery cover use double sided tap from inside of the cover.
Yes when you go over bumps in speed, sometimes tyre hugger gets hitted to number plate due to soft suspension. Solution is to make suspension more tighter
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
As bikersdream pointed out, the thud sound can pretty much be eliminated by stiffening the rear suspension. We have 10 settings in the Duke 390, and the factory is set at 3 clicks, the higher you go, the stiffer the suspension it gets.Originally posted by petrolhead28 View PostBought RC390 4 days back. Hear too much vibration noise from battery cover. Any DIY fix for the problem?
Also I hear thud noise from back of bike when it goes over bumps or small potholes, is it the tyre hugger or something else?
Help me please
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
THE END
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
Maybe you can refer this oneOriginally posted by petrolhead28 View PostThanks for the tip but can you help me with specific points of where to use that tape. A photo will be great
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
I highly doubt its the tyre hugger hitting the plates. The bike make a thud sound of plastic and I am sure it comes from back part of bike. maybe from the seat coz it comes even when I go over 3-4 inches deep rough spots at low speedOriginally posted by B7ACKTHORN View PostAs bikersdream pointed out, the thud sound can pretty much be eliminated by stiffening the rear suspension. We have 10 settings in the Duke 390, and the factory is set at 3 clicks, the higher you go, the stiffer the suspension it gets.
Cheers!
VJ
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
Try stiffening the suspension a few notches and observe if the sound repeats. If you find the sound repeats itself, check your took it for proper placement. Sometimes the toolkit can induce a thud sound when the bike is induced to sudden rough spots. Keep your observations posted.Originally posted by petrolhead28 View PostI highly doubt its the tyre hugger hitting the plates. The bike make a thud sound of plastic and I am sure it comes from back part of bike. maybe from the seat coz it comes even when I go over 3-4 inches deep rough spots at low speed
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
THE END
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
Removing the toolkit doesnt solve the problem. My mind is going crazy with the battery cover vibration noise (tried the 2 sided tape fix,still it vibrates like hell) all the time and that thud noise from back of bike. Nearest KTM service centre is over 50 kms away, so going there is not an option right now.Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View PostTry stiffening the suspension a few notches and observe if the sound repeats. If you find the sound repeats itself, check your took it for proper placement. Sometimes the toolkit can induce a thud sound when the bike is induced to sudden rough spots. Keep your observations posted.
Cheers!
VJ
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
I hope you've seen this, if not, this just could be it.Originally posted by petrolhead28 View PostRemoving the toolkit doesnt solve the problem. My mind is going crazy with the battery cover vibration noise (tried the 2 sided tape fix,still it vibrates like hell) all the time and that thud noise from back of bike. Nearest KTM service centre is over 50 kms away, so going there is not an option right now.
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
THE END
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
Thanks for sharing the video. But I think this problem isnt whats causing the vibration coz I have tried to pull out battery cover when locked and it doesnt budge.Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
So after nearly 57k kms on the ODO, I guess it's time I work on the engine as she's burning up the oil. 3k kms after the oil change and around 900 ml remains, I see very little smoke. Don't plan on giving the bike away anytime soon, so planning on doing the engine bore+ piston work. I already had the valves reseated and shim work done around 10k kms before when I opened up the head as the timing chain holder pad broke. The bike is still running on stock slipper clutch plates, planning on changing that as well along with this work.
Any pointers? Recent prices in approx. For the rebuild ? And should the crank also be worked on ?The North Eastern Sojourn- wanderlust diary-7000 Kilometers|| Sikkim || Bhutan
Dream ride Tlog - valparai-munnar-meghamalai
Live to Ride and Ride to Live.
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
Again inspect the head and valves, check if they leak. you might have to replace the valve kit (valve/guide/seals). i suspect the valves.Originally posted by Chris2292 View PostSo after nearly 57k kms on the ODO, I guess it's time I work on the engine as she's burning up the oil. 3k kms after the oil change and around 900 ml remains, I see very little smoke. Don't plan on giving the bike away anytime soon, so planning on doing the engine bore+ piston work. I already had the valves reseated and shim work done around 10k kms before when I opened up the head as the timing chain holder pad broke. The bike is still running on stock slipper clutch plates, planning on changing that as well along with this work.
Any pointers? Recent prices in approx. For the rebuild ? And should the crank also be worked on ?
Make sure you replace the head gasket while putting the head back.
apart from that also check the bore and piston for any scoring marks (vertical lines) and if possible check its diameter to see if its within spec. Sometimes just a set of new piston+rings should be ok.
The cost of the valves iirc are around 2000 for a complete set and the price of the block+piston is around 8-9k.
Add labor of approx 3k at the svc.
crank/rod i don't think would need work, but just check it .see if there is a play in the rod, if so you might have replace the crank bearing.
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
The head and valves work was done around 8-10k kms before only, I would anyhow check it, but how do I find out if the valves leak ? There would be carbon deposits on the exhaust valves ?Originally posted by s1d View PostAgain inspect the head and valves, check if they leak. you might have to replace the valve kit (valve/guide/seals). i suspect the valves.
Make sure you replace the head gasket while putting the head back.
apart from that also check the bore and piston for any scoring marks (vertical lines) and if possible check its diameter to see if its within spec. Sometimes just a set of new piston+rings should be ok.
The cost of the valves iirc are around 2000 for a complete set and the price of the block+piston is around 8-9k.
Add labor of approx 3k at the svc.
crank/rod i don't think would need work, but just check it .see if there is a play in the rod, if so you might have replace the crank bearing.The North Eastern Sojourn- wanderlust diary-7000 Kilometers|| Sikkim || Bhutan
Dream ride Tlog - valparai-munnar-meghamalai
Live to Ride and Ride to Live.
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
when you say valve work, were the valve guides replaced ? Or just reseating valves and clearances ?Originally posted by Chris2292 View PostThe head and valves work was done around 8-10k kms before only, I would anyhow check it, but how do I find out if the valves leak ? There would be carbon deposits on the exhaust valves ?
Refer to this post on checking valve leaks
a good lathe guy would know about this (usually the mechs send it to a lathe workshop to change the valves/guides/seals and seating)
I doubt you'd need a new block piston.. maybe just new rings, and maybe valve seals/guides. Can't say much more without actually looking at the parts and clearances.
btw, the cost of a new block+piston kit is close to 14k iirc and not 9k as i mentioned earlier.Last edited by s1d; 06-12-2018, 04:01 PM.
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
Need a little help
A week ago I had a service of my bike and rode it home
When I took it out after a day for a ride after driving for about a km the bike shut off
Electricals were good but it seemed like the bike didn't have any fuel while the tank was half full
Trying to turn it on after 5-10 minutes resulted in the bike starting for a second or two and shutting down right after that.
I called a friend whose a mechanic and expert in ktm he said the sensor might be dirty or something and asked to clean the connector or cuplids.
The next day when I was going to remove the tank to clean the connectors of the fi and throttle body the bike started perfectly.
I kept it on idle until the radiator turned on and off and rode it around and was working perfectly fine.
The next day the bike gave me a jerk like it lost fuel for a second but started working again
After a while it turned off but started back on at the first try. I rushed to his workshop which was about 10 kms away and the bike gave me 2 jerks in between.
It's been a week and the bikes at his workshop as he isn't getting much time cause of eid.
We cleaned the tank. Cleaned and also replaced the injector, changed the air filter, cleaned the fuel filter, changed the spark plug, cleaned the throttle body( bike runs butter smooth now ) but the problem still is there.
The bike after cleaning the throttle body started and was working but upon hard acceleration it gave me a jerk like a loss of power for a second at 80. I gave him to test and he felt the jerks 2-3 times as well. Afterwards the bike kept shutting down and then refusing to start like it didn't have fuel in it while there was 5-6 liters of fuel in it. We are now going to replace the fuel pump and check day after tomorrow.
I just wanted to hear from you guys whether anyone else here has encountered this problem? And if so is the fuel pump the culprit because it gets heated up cause at the start of the day it works fine until it's driven a bit
Battery is totally fine and fully charged and it's a new battery
Comment
-
Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience
Check Fuel pump and ECU functioning.Originally posted by QuadrupleagentZ View PostNeed a little help
A week ago I had a service of my bike and rode it home
When I took it out after a day for a ride after driving for about a km the bike shut off
Electricals were good but it seemed like the bike didn't have any fuel while the tank was half full
Trying to turn it on after 5-10 minutes resulted in the bike starting for a second or two and shutting down right after that.
I called a friend whose a mechanic and expert in ktm he said the sensor might be dirty or something and asked to clean the connector or cuplids.
The next day when I was going to remove the tank to clean the connectors of the fi and throttle body the bike started perfectly.
I kept it on idle until the radiator turned on and off and rode it around and was working perfectly fine.
The next day the bike gave me a jerk like it lost fuel for a second but started working again
After a while it turned off but started back on at the first try. I rushed to his workshop which was about 10 kms away and the bike gave me 2 jerks in between.
It's been a week and the bikes at his workshop as he isn't getting much time cause of eid.
We cleaned the tank. Cleaned and also replaced the injector, changed the air filter, cleaned the fuel filter, changed the spark plug, cleaned the throttle body( bike runs butter smooth now ) but the problem still is there.
The bike after cleaning the throttle body started and was working but upon hard acceleration it gave me a jerk like a loss of power for a second at 80. I gave him to test and he felt the jerks 2-3 times as well. Afterwards the bike kept shutting down and then refusing to start like it didn't have fuel in it while there was 5-6 liters of fuel in it. We are now going to replace the fuel pump and check day after tomorrow.
I just wanted to hear from you guys whether anyone else here has encountered this problem? And if so is the fuel pump the culprit because it gets heated up cause at the start of the day it works fine until it's driven a bit
Battery is totally fine and fully charged and it's a new battery
Also check earthing for electricals.
Comment




Comment