Re: Suzuki GS150R

I recently bought a used GS150R. It's 2012 model, done 13000 km. I had it checked at local Suzuki SC, it's all fine, the bike runs very smooth. Having moved up from a Suzuki Shaolin, I'm really more concerned about power speed than about fuel efficiency, and this fits the bill perfectly. The only concern I have is the gear shifter.

1) There is a significant amount of play in the pedal. I'm talking of play in the pedal, without any force reaching the gears itself. I can see the linkage rod is wobbly and this is the cause. This should be easy to resolve, by packing the loose link with a washer.

2) My shoe fits over the pedal, front to back, like in the attached picture (I'm reusing a picture from an earlier post). There is a gap between the footrest and the mid of the shoe, and eventually the shoe curves down to sit on the footrest, straining my foot. This is also the reason why I very often wrongly shift from 1st into neutral instead of into 2nd, because as I press my heel down, the footrest stops the foot from pressing down enough. I end up pressing the heel 3-4 times to shift into 2nd.

Has no one else faced a similar predicament? Whats the solution?

Re: Suzuki GS150R

First batch of GS had adjustable gear-shifter link-rod (like that in the pic you attached). Not sure why they dropped it in the subsequent batches. I asked @SVC(Davengere) for that link rod, they said it's not compatible with new batches & I need purchase the whole gear-shifter-set (set was expensive).

I don't like the play either; no solution in sight so far.

Nice imitation of shoe there. However, I thought front goes under the shifter when heel is on it in the rear.

Suzuki GS150R : Front Fork Oil Change

Front Fork Oil replacement DIY for GS150R

Detailed/Stepwise explanation can be found in service manual - Service Manual's 5-13 Page : Front Forks

Bike on center stand & lift the front with suitable/reliable lifting mechanism (my case - spare cardboard pieces).

1. Remove front disk caliper mounting bolts : 12mm
2. Remove front axle nut (17mm) and take the front wheel
3. Remove front fender & brake hose holder : 10mm bolts, 4mm hex/allen-key

now bike without the front wheel:



4. Loosen fork-head hex-nut (14mm), as it will darn difficult after removing the forks.
5. Loosen fork upper-bracket hex bolt (6mm)
6. Loosen fork lower-bracket bolt (12 mm) while holding the fork in one hand; fork will slip down easily otherwise.

Repeat steps 4,5 & 6 for the other fork as well.

forks laying helpless on the carton:
7. Remove fork-nuts completely, take care of spring as it pops out in the end.
8. Take out Spacer, Washer, & fork-spring out.
9. Pour out the used fork-oil in to a container, pump it while pouring for better drainage.Now the dilemma, 14mm hex-head fork-rod that I bought seems useless in length.



Took a look inside under better light, 14mm bolt head was visible & tried to reach it using fork-rod-tool; bingo, nut was barely 15" inside & was reachable.

Fork-rod ready for removal : fork-rod tool was lengthy enough


10. Remove fork-rod using 14mm hex-fork-rod-tool & 6mm hex/allen key. I guess, a bit of circus performance is required to loosen it if you're alone

a photo to put fork-rod location in perspective:


Check the holes which play role in oil-damping:


Alright now what, wiped all the components, springs, spacer, washer, fork-rod. Thought of putting some kerosene in to take out sticky gunk.

NOTE: I didn't want to remove seals, so I left them in place.

11. Replaced fork-rod & tightened.
12. Poured about 50ml of kerosene in, closed fork-head-nut, shook the fork wildly.
13. Poured out the kerosene-gunk mix, took out fork rod again & kept it for dry.

removed fork-oil & kerosene mix:


Took a Tea break

14. Wiped clean every fork component again after drying.
15. Replaced fork-rod & tightened it with 6mm Hex-bolt.
16. Poured 145ml of Motul 20w fork-oil into fork & pumped inner tube several times for proper circulation.



17. Insert fork-spring (check the direction, narrow pitch goes in first & wider pitch remains on top), washer, spacer.
18. Replaced the fork-head bolt on top of it. Grease the O-Ring on the fork-head-bolt. Again some circus is needed.

check the fork-set working by pumping it few times. Satisfied? Yes, go ahead the reassemble everything in reverse order.

19. Finally, tighten the fork-head-hex-bolts(14mm) as the brackets help you hold inner tube.

Tools used:


cheers
now I retire to watch a copy of "Grand Budapest Hotel (2013)".

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Carburetor Choke & Pilot-Jet issue fixed

Yeah, i got one after few complaints to the company. Btw try releasing the air from the forks after some riding.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

I replaced 8-9k kms old stock/default NGK-CPR7HSA with NGK CR6HGP, as discussed few pages back.

Check out what projection mean in comparo:



Opened front sprocket cover for a surprise inspection:


pleased with the cleanliness, I lubed it again with EP-140 oil.


You mean, weight of the bike preloads the fork & air pressure builds up?

Will observe the stiffness & release the air if necessary.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Guys i had fifth paid servicing of my bike on this saturday @9024km. The 4th servicing was @~7750km during which I had changed the oil. Normally i make sure that all the servicing happens infront of me. But this time i had some work so I left the bike alone with the servicing guys. Collected the bike in the evening. Two days the bike rode fine but today at night i felt some vibrations near engine so i checked the engine oil level. Picture attached. To my surprise the level was too low. Can anybody have a say as to whether the oil level can reach that level within 1300km? i know the oil turns darker but never saw the level going so low. I dont know if i should go and ask the servicing guys, because as i dont want to disturb the relation which thereby may affect my future customer experience. Just To add on i am quiet sure that the oil has not leaked anywhere. I have a fixed spot both at home and work to park my bike. There are no spots of oil leakage.


What is your say guys?

Re: Suzuki GS150R

That's a lot of dirt on the block in just few days since last Saturday.

1. It takes few minutes for hot engine oil to settle depending on its viscosity grade.
2. Engine-oil level to be checked without center-stand per owner's manual keeping the bike vertical on a flat surface.

Check again before starting next time, ask someone to hold the bike steady for you.

We'll decide if it needs a top-up.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Thanks for quick reply. Yeah i didn't take wash during servicing. And its monsoon here in Goa. Raining heavily. So no matter how much you wash when you come back in evening its dirty again.

Yeah i checked the oil without center-stand while my brother was holding it upright.
As you said it takes time for hot engine oil to settle I just checked the level again. Its exactly the same. Bike is not even started once yet.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Alright, when oil-filter is replaced during engine-oil replacement

1. owner's manual says 1,000 ml of engine-oil is required
2. service manual on the other hands says 1,100 ml of engine-oil
3. an email-response from Suzuki to one of our members (I think @ashwanth.r) stated 1,100 ml of engine-oil

Who's is correct here can be debated. Was the sump design altered between batches?

So,

1. we can presume SVC people replaced oil-filter & poured in 1000 ml from the bottle(OE-Suzuki).
2. I recently replaced oil-filter & engine-oil, Oil-Level was similar to your's after a short run. I poured roughly about 100ml spare engine-oil I had with me to raise the level.

Source 100 ml of 20w40 mineral oil & pour it in. You can go to SVC for a top-up if you don't want to do it yourself.

Note: mixing different make & grade of oils is still debatable, SVC will provide same make & grade of current engine-oil.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

No, I wasnt there. I came back as i had few things to finish

Yes. Tin number is there : 29111115694

The exact bill is as below

SpareParts
Oil Filter : 31.55
Castrol Engine Oil : 259.60

Service Charges
Gen Service : 350
CHS-Drive Chain Cleaning and Lubrication : 90
OTH - VAS : 50
GEN-Polishing : 40
ELE - Battery Charging / Maintenance : 40

Additional Service Charges : 0

Total SpareParts : 291.15
Vat : 42.21
Labour Charge : 570
Service Tax : 70.47

Net Amount : 974

Re: Suzuki GS150R

That's valid TIN: Dealer Search



I can't comment on your priorities, however : a thought

1. Motul 3000 4t Plus 20w40 Mineral : around 300/- per litre
2. Oil-Filter + O-Rings : 50/-
3. Kerosene (65/- per ltr) : 250ml => 15/-
4. SAE EP-90 GL-4 Gear-Oil : 50 ml (≈ 150/- for 500 ml) => 15/-
5. Two hours of your free time (125/- per hour) : 250/-
Total (excluding labour) : 565/-

Of course one time investment in tools: (I can't comment on stock/oe tools kit)

1. 10 mm Ring Spanner : 50/- (approx)
2. 8 mm T-Spanner : 100/- (approx)
3. 17mm Socket + L lever : 200/- (approx)
4. Star/Flat head screw driver : 50/- (approx)
Total : 400/-

With the 1000/- spending you'll have same service with tools for subsequent use; spare Kerosene & Gear-Oil for usage in future.

NOTE: You've void your warranty...

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Am yet to start DIY on my bike. the problem is that, am totally confused whether something will go wrong or not..

normally, i will change oil from Shell petrol bunk near Bommanahalli. free of cost

Changed oil filter last time during Free service. . so at that time also, not much cash was wasted..

will start DIY's later with help of someone who is expert..

974 is the highest bill amount i got till now.. previous highest was 736.. for the other 10 services , the total was between 200 - 300 (i guess so..not sure) and the lowest was 96.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

[QUOTE=SparKot;1071764]First batch of GS had adjustable gear-shifter link-rod (like that in the pic you attached). Not sure why they dropped it in the subsequent batches. I asked @SVC(Davengere) for that link rod, they said it's not compatible with new batches & I need purchase the whole gear-shifter-set (set was expensive).

I don't like the play either; no solution in sight so far.

......

I use toe for shifting gears up and down. I lift my leg up and with the toe press the heel shifter. I could not find any other solution.

Re: Suzuki GS150R


I added some more oil in the morning while the engine was hot. Probably i added too much oil coz even after riding for 40 km oil level appears full. I think I'll drain some oil at night and fill only till the oil level reaches right mark

Re: Suzuki GS150R

@office and unwell, will keep it short.


Owner’s manual says 900 ml for oil change and 1000 ml for oil+filter change (These are the pages with illustrations). The same manual says 1100 ml for oil+filter change (The last few pages where specs are listed). Legend on the engine says 1000 ml (For Fiero this is 1100 and Gixxer 850).


Workshop manual says 1100 ml for oil+filter change. This is what a mail from Suzuki said too.


I think it’s a simple typo in the Owner’s manual - the sump may not be altered.


As Vishnu once pointed out, adding 1000 ml after filter change will technically be a “pass” - as the oil level will just be somewhere in the middle between F and L. This might reduce the margin of error in case we chose to ignore oil level for sometime and it drops slightly month by month.


Adding 1100 ml after filter change will keep the oil level just below “F”.
Keeping the motorcycle on main stand on level ground will provide an approximately correct reading (after going through the ritual of idling for 2-3 minutes and waiting for 2 minutes) - this is how they checked in SVC once.

@rsk_kelkar,

Check engine oil level as exactly described in the owner’s manual (idle engine -> oil completely disappears from sight glass -> wait for 2 mins -> check level).
If you have no one to hold the GS, first put it on side stand, go to the other side, squat, palm of left hand on seat/side panel, right hand on handlebar and gently straighten the motorcycle. If the GS is more tilted towards its left, we feel more weight on our right hand - if it is tilted more towards its right, more weight sensed on palm of left hand. At approx straight position, feels like GS is balancing on its own - try it !