Re: Suzuki GS150R

Good News is that Suzuki has reduced price of Inazuma. I think its now available at 2.05 lak rupees. Still away from ordinary riders like me !

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Testing Post #2 : Last post on DIY http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...t-bearing.html went for moderation.

Anyways; reposting here (can't recall original content).

GS150R's front sprocket has that lateral/axial play too. Even super-bikes, dirt-bikes have it, it is supposed to be by design. Couldn't dig further (still digging).

Play in front sprocket - Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org

Axial Play : lateral movement/play along the axle(driveshaft) is in place by design, not to worry about.
Radial Play : rotatory movement/play along the drive-chain is something to worry about.

cheers

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Finally found the login page in the redesigned interface of this website.

Met with an accident a month ago. It was due to a concrete mixer truck showering the road with it's product. My bike lost traction and I ended up kissing the road and rolling 6-7 times on a downward sloping road. The bike took surprising less damage than I expected.

RHS blinker mount is bent with blinker not functioning. Exhaust heat shield is in bad shape and the headlight assembly with fairing needs to be changed. Anybody know the cost of these?

Re: Suzuki GS150R

[MENTION=39974]vikhyath[/MENTION],wish you a speedy recovery.. Drive safe!

It is quite surprise that this bulky machine is escaping with less damage even in major shunts (From my side three incidents can be added , of which two were big at good speeds)
I'd replaced the front fairing due to more scratches and it cost me around Rs.1100 and the reflector will cost another 1000.. Check the headlight stay assembly and replace if needed. It will cost around Rs.800 IIRC.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Small update regarding Brake Fluid :

Few weeks back bought 250ml Bosch DOT4 brake fluid paying 90/- After brake fluid bleeding there was leftover sufficient enough for another bleeding.

Service Manual literally recommends giving pistons, master cylinder components a fluid bath. Although we need to be extra careful about it's corrosive nature, you may want to used it all(250 ml) up in one instance.

Coz :


I arranged it to make my point clear

Immense pressure from inside has popped the lid !!! I don't remember over-tightening it. (such a waste of fluid)

PS: I think that's why braking was effective after couple of days.
PSS: Will try WaxPol DOT4 next year.

Are you alright, any serious injuries? Coz, once I saw a Bajaj Pulsar 150 (old) rolling couple of times left-right, rider was alright btw(he let the bike go). It happened on the muddy road not on tarmac.

1. @punarvasu used to be real-time source for spares' prices. However, we've price-list as of July-2012; you can add 20% to get an estimate about current prices.



2. The service manual in Spanish:
Index of /pdf

Suzuki GS150R : Engine-Silencer Resonance Vibes @ ~3.5K RPM Temp Fix

Engine-Silencer Resonance Vibes @ ~3.5K RPM Temp Fix

Thanks to [MENTION=49034]Vikshe[/MENTION] & @gmagesh14 for pointing/spreading temp solution. This is an attempt in the same direction.

WARNING-1: There is nothing wrong with existing silencer mounting set. However, some of us(including me) feel resonance vibes around 3,500 RPM tingling in some way. As @ashwanth.r points out, these vibes can be taken as reference to shift-up (gear); in fact it works effectively.

1. Bajaj Pulsar 180 (neighbour's @native) silencer mount:


2. Pulsar180 mounting set next to GS150R's :


3. GS150R's & Pulsar180's silencer mounting set (vertical):


4. GS150R's & Pulsar180's silencer mounting set (lateral):


5. GS150R's & Pulsar180's silencer mounting set (dismantled):


Notable points:

• Pulsar180's bolt is long & has no-thread zone for snug fit with the cylindrical washer.
• GS150R's mounting hole's diameter is too small to fit metal-washer & rubber-damper
• metal-cylindrical-washer & rubber-damper are the effective team here for vibration damping by separating bolt-set from rest of the motorcycle with rubber.

Now what?
- Increase the mounting hole diameter? : a big NO !!!

6. So, I cut the rubber into three pieces & chucked metal-cylindrical-washer fitted on GS150R ...


now silencer mounted on this jugad:


WARNING-2: Although this jugad suppresses 75% of vibes technically it's not a solution. Hope you get the importance of metal-cylindrical-washer, check rear suspension lower mounting bolt-set for reference.

WARNING-3: I once lost that nut due to improper tightening or it loosens over a period of time. Keep monitoring it !!!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Another link regarding Oil damped Fork-Suspensions worth sharing for Geeks:

Damping Rod Forks on (RaceTech Suspension)


cheers

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Engine-Silencer Resonance Vibes @ ~3.5K RPM Temp Fix

I have my servicing coming up in some time and the user manual says to replace front fork oil at 10k km. Is it really necessary to do this? because I think the suspension is plush enough and i don't want to break something that is behaving good.

Also i am having little problem in gear shift. When shifting gear it gets stuck half way and when releasing the clutch lever the remaining half shifts automatically in place and i get a small jerk. I asked the SVC to look into it. They loosened by clutch so much it had lot of play plus the problem was still persisting. I then myself tightened the clutch and left a small play. The things improved a little but still sometimes it occurs. Is it normal or should i be worried.

BTW nowadays I ride 80 km everyday to my office and mostly on highway. Last few days i have been riding at 57-60 km/hr just to check mileage. I am surprised to get figures of 63-65 km/l. That too with lowered tire pressure. The tires @recommended pressure don't inspire cornering especially when the roads are wet. And here in Goa, its been raining heavily. I had a fall too few days back on a wet soiled road. So i let some air out to get more grip out of the tires.

I am not sure but even when engine off and I am going downslope i feel very negligible vibes at exactly ~16(and multiples)kmph speeds. Doesn't bother me much so never cared. Dont know why exactly and what vibrates.

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Engine-Silencer Resonance Vibes @ ~3.5K RPM Temp Fix

+1
I defer to your good/sound judgement. I replaced it recently, fork-oil was ~20k kms old (3y5m) even though it was feeling good after warming up.

Nevertheless, we can only comment on the effectiveness of fork-oil if we've

1. virgin oil analysis of the fork-oil
2. 10k kms used oil analysis of the fork-oil
3. 20k kms used oil analysis of the fork-oil

However, we cannot disregard the deterioration of fork-spring(rebound-spring) over time.

• It happens when you're hesitate while shifting gears.
• moving joints/junctions involved in gear shifting may need lubrication.
• service-manual says "non-sticky grease" for gear-shifter-lever, I'm not sure which one look for.

So, I can only suggest : lube the parties involved & shift confidently on the falling(initial 20% of closing throttle action) RPMs.

+1
I defer to your good/sound judgement again. Yes, I've experienced fish-tailing on several occasions while riding on semi-wet & muddy/sandy roads.

If those vibes doesn't bother you, stay away from above incomplete-jugad.

I guess vibes(@ ~3.5K RPM) transfer from engine => silencer => rear chassis => to our sensitive-bum

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Engine-Silencer Resonance Vibes @ ~3.5K RPM Temp Fix

Thanks for your thoughts and replies.

That freak incident was an example of being in the wrong place at the wrong time. It was nobody's fault really.

I escaped with abrasions on all four limbs and fracture of 2 tiny bones in the wrist. Planning the replacement of the headlight assembly and the exhaust heat shield.
Also changing to zapper Qs. Will fill in the cost details soon.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

So, you've recovered completely now? I had a minor fracture in my left wrist last time I had a fall from Access125.

You get to check out MRF Zapper Q's (TubeType or TubeLess) on GS150R. They're on my radar too

Please share the spares & tyre prices. Also some photos to treat our eyes.

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Front Fork Oil Change

When does it recommend that ? Those components are already in contact with brake fluid.
New Pistons, master cylinder components and seals must be dipped/lubricated with brake fluid only at the time of installation/overhaul.

The trick here is to slide the fork rod tool in the fork, turn the fork upside down, place your feet on the T side of the tool then use an allen key to remove the bottom bolt.

If you change the fork oil every 1.5~2 years then there won't be any sludge formation.

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Front Fork Oil Change & NGK-CR6HGP

NGK-CR6HGP status: ~ 100 km under its belt



I've set Pilot Screw turns to 2.5 (factory/stock is 2.0 turns) for this plug. Throttle response is good but as [MENTION=28527]sibun[/MENTION] points out, AFR in current bikes is towards leaner side.

Shall I switch back to stock NGK-CPR7HSA ?

Yes, master cylinder components were(will be) in contact brake fluid all the time. My bad, sorry

On page 5-26 Chassis (service manual): Brake Jaw Reassembly (or in Spanish : REENSAMBLE DE LA MORDAZA)

timely replacement of brake-fluid doesn't require an overhaul.

Have you ever done reverse-bleeding?

This is exactly what I did but, by laying the fork on the ground, pressing T-handle by left foot, turning allen-key using right hand. Hence the circus . I couldn't take a photo as I was alone...

Service manual recommends thread-lock on the threads of the above hex-bolt. Which thread-lock product can we use here? I've tightened without thread lock as of now.

Yes, I'll be replacing Brake-Fluid & Fork-Oil on time from now onwards. When we perform a DIY job, we'll be faltering during first time, by second time around we'll be bouncing with confidence.

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Front Fork Oil Change & NGK-CR6HGP

Is it the plug for GS150R. It is the same plug for pleasure and old model activa. Nothing to worry as your plug is looking whiter because CR6HSA is a hotter plug than CR7HSA, so will look whiter than CR7HSA. If your running is in city then you can run with the said plug and there will be minimum carbon deposit. But if you go on run on highways then change to OE part number.Are you sure that original is CR7HSA as it is the same for splendor/ Joy. Both CPR7HSA and CR7HSA are different. But from the photos i see you have used CR6HSA and the colder to that is CR7HSA.There is no need of changing the master cylinder components if regular oil change is done. If regular oil change is done then no sludge formation takes place. If oil change is delayed, then sludge forms and when new oil is used then it washes away the sludgr and then the piston will leak and will need overhaul of the master cylinder. I change the oil at every 6000 km and use TVS GIRLING DOT 4 brake fluid and my brake is as sharp as when bought new. I bleed the brakes by sucking out the old oil from cylinder with a syringe and pump and bleed the brake by filling new oil from top. Continue this till fresh oil oozes out from other end. For thread locker you can use the green liquid named resimet from RESINOVA chemicals. Look in their website.

Re: Suzuki GS150R : Front Fork Oil Change & NGK-CR6HGP

Sibun has answered everything.

The washer looks like it hasn't compressed properly. Tighten the plug 1/4th turn after it seats fully then loosen it slightly.
Notice if there is any change in engine noise above 6k RPM on highway.

Normal bleeding is enough for a regular brake oil change. Yes, I have tried reverse bleeding but it is too cumbersome for routine maintenance.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

No, stock plug for GS150R is NGK-CPR7HSA. I explored G-Power series from NGK & was impressed by it. Unfortunately, CPR7HGP plug is not manufactured by them & GS150R is the only bike in India using NGK-CPR7HSA
So, I was just experimenting with hotter NGK-CR6HGP G-Power plug; since CR7HGP has no projected center had to go with hotter plug to compensate heat loss.

I'm game for NGK-CPR7HGP when they come out.

Yes, CR6HGP plug looks much cleaner than stock. I'll be reverting to stock (NGK-CPR7HSA the colder plug) this weekend and put this CR6HGP into sister's Honda-Dio(2011).
Mine was bled after 3 years (~19k kms) for the first time, master cylinder was dirty.
Service-Manual says to replace brake-fluid every 2 years. I'm planning to replace it every year.
I didn't know this method of emptying the master cylinder with a syringe until recently. I've spare Dispovans though.
Will be looking for it next time I go for spares/tools hunting.
RESIMET HS 644 (Hydraulic Sealant)