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TVS Apache RTR 180
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Thanks lijok. CR7EIX is a hotter plug than the CR8EIX. Will try to figure out how the heat ranges of the plugs compare with the stock one. If you redline the bike often and use a hotter plug then recommended then you can damage the engine.Originally posted by lijok View PostMost motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.
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Can you elaborate on the last part in bold... asking coz I do redline quite often...Originally posted by rags View PostThanks lijok. CR7EIX is a hotter plug than the CR8EIX. Will try to figure out how the heat ranges of the plugs compare with the stock one. If you redline the bike often and use a hotter plug then recommended then you can damage the engine.
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Originally posted by rags View PostThanks lijok. CR7EIX is a hotter plug than the CR8EIX. Will try to figure out how the heat ranges of the plugs compare with the stock one. If you redline the bike often and use a hotter plug then recommended then you can damage the engine.NGK has an excellent set of "spark plug overview" pages here NGK Spark Plugs USA and page two explains the heat range in detail. Below are some excerpts from that page:Originally posted by lijok View PostCan you elaborate on the last part in bold... asking coz I do redline quite often...
The heat range of a spark plug is the range in which the plug works well thermally. The heat rating of each NGK spark plug is indicated by a number; lower numbers indicate a hotter type, higher numbers indicate a colder type.
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carbon foulingoverheating....
The same page also says what happens if the heat range is too cold. There's a lot more interesting/important information in the FAQ pages too.Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.
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Continuing on my previous post about spark plugs ... a little known fact (atleast to me) about spark plugs is that in addition to providing a spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture it also aids in transfer of head from the cylinder to the cylinder head which is then dissipated (in air cooled engines) or transferred to water (in liquid cooled engines) helping in cooling the engine. So if you rev your engine hard go for a colder plug in the recommended heat range.
I normally prefer to go with the spark plug recommended by the manufacturer or an exact equivalent by another company. The Bosch UR5DDC recommended by TVS has a 10mm dia thread with suppression resistor, heat range "5", 19 mm thread reach and twin copper electrodes. Now my problem/issue is to find the heat range value of NGK plugs which corresponds to "5" in Bosch. Anybody has any ideas?Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.
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Actually it comes as a set of wire and a coil and combinely they gives boost to the current which goes to the plug.Originally posted by lijok View Postwhat does this splitfire cable do?
Na buddy, that turn was different, actually i'm very carefull while taking the leans and i always do it on the roads which are known to me, i think as i was in third gear may be i backed the throttle a bit and the engine did the "engine braking" that had a direct effect on the rear tyre and may be it locked for a fraction of the second that caused the suspension to compress and the moment i gased it back it decompressed and that effect happened.Originally posted by rags View PostAre you saying you took the same turn at 100 kmph and nothing happened? Two possible reasons I can think of is you ran over a stone or something you did not notice or you were too aggressive on the throttle which made the tyre slide and regain traction and you had a very very minor highside!
What exactly do you mean blipping the throttle when the bike is leant .. you mean in gear or shifting between gears? Blipping between gears wouldn't cause rebound effect because you've already matched the revs and are not over loading/compressing the shocks.
Blipping the throttle at the same gear, actually at 8000-10000 RPM the bike is at the peak so to stay in the peak i blip the throttle to keep it in the region of 8000-9000 so it stays at the peak, and i still have about 1000 RPM to pull it a little after getting out of lean for the next gear.The Magician"
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OKOriginally posted by rennycornelius View PostActually it comes as a set of wire and a coil and combinely they gives boost to the current which goes to the plug.
That's quite likely, in third there would be a good amount of engine braking but unless you completely shut off the throttle I don't know if the rear would lock up. I didn't understand how a wheel lock would load the rear shocks and compress them.Originally posted by rennycornelius View PostNa buddy, that turn was different, actually i'm very carefull while taking the leans and i always do it on the roads which are known to me, i think as i was in third gear may be i backed the throttle a bit and the engine did the "engine braking" that had a direct effect on the rear tyre and may be it locked for a fraction of the second that caused the suspension to compress and the moment i gased it back it decompressed and that effect happened.
Why would you blip the throttle to maintain the engine at that rpm range? Blipping would cause the bike to jerk when you open and close the throttle a bit upsetting the bike mid-corner and you wouldn't want that. Why not just roll it to reach that range?Originally posted by rennycornelius View PostBlipping the throttle at the same gear, actually at 8000-10000 RPM the bike is at the peak so to stay in the peak i blip the throttle to keep it in the region of 8000-9000 so it stays at the peak, and i still have about 1000 RPM to pull it a little after getting out of lean for the next gear.Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.
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That's just my assumption that it might have happened.Originally posted by rags View PostI didn't understand how a wheel lock would load the rear shocks and compress them. ?
Just to get the kick of the sound.Originally posted by rags View PostWhy would you blip the throttle to maintain the engine at that rpm range? Blipping would cause the bike to jerk when you open and close the throttle a bit upsetting the bike mid-corner and you wouldn't want that. Why not just roll it to reach that range?
Last edited by rennycornelius; 03-28-2010, 05:34 PM.The Magician"
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Go for mesh jackets!ask in riding gears threadOriginally posted by chothibai View Postguys!! just wanna know what type of jacket should i wear in summers to prevent myself from any accident if,in case it happens..i mean to say what type of cloth or fabric would be suitable for summers??Speak Less,Speak Wise!
Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity.
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Faced a weird problem today. Bike wouldnt start with the electric start at times. After switching the red killswitch off and on again, its then that the bike started with the electric starter. And sometimes even had to fiddle with the killswitch more than once to get the bike started with the electric starter. Any idea why this is happening? And even the time display got changed automatically.You can only ride better tomorrow if you ride safe today.
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Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post@theguitarfreak:
Time to get your wiring checked.Will get it checked at the SVC.Originally posted by jasmeetsinghchawla View PostThats the ignition switch of the the bike which is culprit. The display went off and then self check started again and the clock time went default. This problem is known to service people and it cost less then Rs50 to get it fine.You can only ride better tomorrow if you ride safe today.
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Knocking when at speeds upto 50-55kmph.also in 1st and 2nd gear too.and the Problem is more pronounced in the town traffic.If I shift down and apply throttle ,there is this "missing" thing more.Originally posted by chicane1879 View PostRemember over tightening could make things worse. I am still cluless about the reason for your knocking problem.
Have you checked:
-Tappet clearance
-Cleaning of carb and individual jets
-Spark plug condition
-air filter/pipe, breather pipe
If your bike knocks excessively with noticeable loss in mileage and power then you need to check the CDI/Valve timing too!!
At 80kmph ,if I twist the throttle a little more ,knocking sound is heard.
I gave back the bike today for thorough inspection.carbs/jets and air filter cleaned.yeah tappet and spark plug condition needs to be checked.
Clutch Slipping also has to be checked.
Thanks for that - CDI kit thing.I will ask them.
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