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**lijok** · 04-02-2010, 12:51 AM

Originally posted by theguitarfreak View Post

IRC tyres would obviously be better than TVS tyres but i havent used it so can comment on it.

These IRC tyres you are mentioning... are they meant for rear-fitment? If they are intented for front-fitment then I dont think it will be useful putting them on... I've searched far and wide for any rear 110/80/17 tyres but no luck yet...

BTW... one problem I'm facing lately... after coming back after long rides (300+) the front brakes feel strange... it doesnt act until the last few degrees of lever play..and then it bites harshly... I told the SVC at my last service, but they did nothing... said some crap like disks are worn unevenly etc, which I know is not the reason... What could be the problem?

**rennycornelius** · 04-02-2010, 10:23 AM

Originally posted by Nipponsahore View Post

well .. only reason i wanted to get rid of the stock tyres is ..
"whats the fun in having awesome brakes when u can't use them with those nasty tyres"

Unless and untill you want to scrape ur feeler bolt in RTR, that too on the daily basis switch the tyres to MRF, i have done some pretty serious leans on TVS tyres,and yes they do lack the grip, they dont inspire confidence and they squel a lot specially the front under normal to hard braking but puttring around in city job, and these tyres are good at it, specially in summers, where the tar roads melts.

Originally posted by theguitarfreak View Post

IRC tyres would obviously be better than TVS tyres but i havent used it so can comment on it.

IRC tyres are any day better than TVS tyres.
PERIOD.

Originally posted by lijok View Post

These IRC tyres you are mentioning... are they meant for rear-fitment?

Yes they are.

BTW... one problem I'm facing lately... after coming back after long rides (300+) the front brakes feel strange... it doesnt act until the last few degrees of lever play..and then it bites harshly... I told the SVC at my last service, but they did nothing... said some crap like disks are worn unevenly etc, which I know is not the reason... What could be the problem?

Do one thing go to the open road, take the bike to 40kmph and then brake real hard, repeat this 4-5 times and see if it makes any diff, actually the RTR's front becomes real bitey at the end, so if this does not work then you have to bleed the system out.

Answers in BOLDS.

**theguitarfreak** · 04-02-2010, 11:04 AM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

These IRC tyres you are mentioning... are they meant for rear-fitment? If they are intented for front-fitment then I dont think it will be useful putting them on... I've searched far and wide for any rear 110/80/17 tyres but no luck yet...

Yes they are for the rear. I have seen it in my city at one shop but the guy was asking 2800 for it just because its his monopoly on that tyre. One of the xbhp has also put that tyres. I saw it in the tyres thread sometime back.

**kauria** · 04-02-2010, 11:28 AM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

BTW... one problem I'm facing lately... after coming back after long rides (300+) the front brakes feel strange... it doesnt act until the last few degrees of lever play..and then it bites harshly... I told the SVC at my last service, but they did nothing... said some crap like disks are worn unevenly etc, which I know is not the reason... What could be the problem?

I can recommend you one quick solution for your prob, first open two bolts which hold the caliper with the fork. After caliper will free, use some heavy soda water, with a cloth, rug the pads and disc. Now with help of some flat head spanner or rear axel opening tool (TVS Kit tool) try to press the caliper end brake shoe, you will see the caliper cylinders will go back to its place and the pads will create huge gap in between. Now fix the caliper to the fork pipe. Do not over tight the bolts. You will see the front brake lever is too free to access. Now press the lever repeatedly, the original break force will be restored with a very good feel in the lever. I always do these tricks after 1000-2000km and without bleeding it works great.

BTW did you upgrade your magneto for better light?

**rennycornelius** · 04-02-2010, 11:42 AM

Originally posted by kauria View Post

I can recommend you one quick solution for your prob, first open two bolts which hold the caliper with the fork. After caliper will free, use some heavy soda water, with a cloth, rug the pads and disc. Now with help of some flat head spanner or rear axel opening tool (TVS Kit tool) try to press the caliper end brake shoe, you will see the caliper cylinders will go back to its place and the pads will create huge gap in between. Now fix the caliper to the fork pipe. Do not over tight the bolts. You will see the front brake lever is too free to access. Now press the lever repeatedly, the original break force will be restored with a very good feel in the lever. I always do these tricks after 1000-2000km and without bleeding it works great.

this is a new i heard, BTW why soda water?

**ameyashogun** · 04-02-2010, 11:47 AM

hey guys i am getting lots of tappet noise pls tell me should i set it again
and how much time service guy need to set it again to normal
on ODO 2700+
going for 2nd service
and pls tell should i switch to semi synthetic now?
after 5500+ fully synthetic
give me reply want to clean the carb coz not always but most of the times idling shifts from 1400 to 1000 or some times 2000 rpm
tell me wat to do
renny lijok and friends
i am counting on u guys.
can't trust Service guy

**rennycornelius** · 04-02-2010, 11:56 AM

Originally posted by ameyashogun View Post

hey guys i am getting lots of tappet noise pls tell me should i set it again
and how much time service guy need to set it again to normal
on ODO 2700+
going for 2nd service
and pls tell should i switch to semi synthetic now?
after 5500+ fully synthetic
give me reply want to clean the carb coz not always but most of the times idling shifts from 1400 to 1000 or some times 2000 rpm
tell me wat to do
renny lijok and friends
i am counting on u guys.
can't trust Service guy

Dont get the tappets set, the ringing noice you're hearing is very much normal cuz if the mech will tighten it little more than required, then it'll eat up the performance.

Actually the alarmingly ringing noice is normal too, cuz when i got the same, i went to my friend mech and he opened and chcked the head and refused to tighten it.

switch to semi synth and then to fully synth after 8000kms, till then change ur oil every 2000-2500kms (semi synth)

when you got ur idling set? at hot engine or cold?
Idling is NEVER set at cold engine.

**Grizder** · 04-02-2010, 12:10 PM

Hi guys i have been following this forum for quite a while though i have never posted before.....
I need advice abt engine oil that can be used on my menace which has done 8.5k kms in abt 8 months

**king2002** · 04-02-2010, 03:35 PM

Rtr 180

Dear Friends,

I have an apache 180 in IRAN and my friends has too,
The following link including a clip that shows his recorded of 140KM/h,
but I don't recommend to anyone riding more than 100 for any unexpected dangers.

2shared - download 20100311344_NEW.3gp

**manubhat** · 04-02-2010, 04:03 PM

Apache:yes or no

I have been doing some research for my first bike from past few months..
i had a test ride of both A160 and A180...both had good power..

But it was really hard to find neutral and i was not able to get my foot on rear brake....am 6ft!!can this be the reason for rear brake issue?

Do u recommend 180 for my height?wat about reliability?
am also worried about vibrations...
i used starcity for past 3 years[used both by me and my dad] and it was vibrating like tractor above 60kmph

...
Is apache's vibrations comparable to starcity at much higher speeds?

thanks in advance..

happy biking!!!!

**Sarvajit** · 04-02-2010, 04:07 PM

Originally posted by ameyashogun View Post

hey guys i am getting lots of tappet noise pls tell me should i set it again
and how much time service guy need to set it again to normal
on ODO 2700+
going for 2nd service
and pls tell should i switch to semi synthetic now?
after 5500+ fully synthetic
give me reply want to clean the carb coz not always but most of the times idling shifts from 1400 to 1000 or some times 2000 rpm
tell me wat to do
renny lijok and friends
i am counting on u guys.
can't trust Service guy

First of all, at 2.7K kms., I don't think that is a tappet issue, unless you have done a MotoMan run-in i.e., very harsh riding during 1st 1000kms.
It most likely is the cam chain tensioner-get it tightened at the next visit to SVC.
2ndly about the idling, maybe it was set when the engine was cold, thats why it shows 1K RPM when cold&then increases when the engine is warm.
Get the idling set or set by yourself when the engine is warm, then review the situation. Carb tuning is a rare case.
I guess your problem will be solved by these 2 minor adjustments, if it still isn't, then maybe you really have to look into the tappet/carb.
These bikes don't need frequent tappet setting-my Fiero F2's tappets have never been set in its lifetime of 51K kms.
Of course the RTR is a high revving machine, but I don't think carb/valve clearance issues can creep in this early.

**Nipponsahore** · 04-02-2010, 04:40 PM

Unless and untill you want to scrape ur feeler bolt in RTR

didn't get that line of yours

well i just went to a tyre shop and they are willing to replace the tvs tyres to .. mrf Zapper FS (front) and mrf Zapper S (rear) for Rs 1k

also one more thing are the MRF Zapper S 100/80/17 made of soft compound or something like that..

well i dont care about the look of it.. till it does it job right

**HydBiker** · 04-02-2010, 04:53 PM

Originally posted by Nipponsahore View Post

well i just went to a tyre shop and they are willing to replace the tvs tyres to .. mrf Zapper FS (front) and mrf Zapper S (rear) for Rs 1k

also one more thing are the MRF Zapper S 100/80/17 made of soft compound or something like that..

well i dont care about the look of it.. till it does it job right

If I were you, I would have come back only with those tyres shod on to my bike.

Boss, the rear tyre offered to you is R15's rear tyre. Very Very good stuff for grip and handling. Don't last more than 20K. Try also to get Zapper FY for front.

And, if he's ready to change them for 1K by taking your stock tyres, stop reading this and run back to that shop.

**rennycornelius** · 04-02-2010, 05:02 PM

Originally posted by HydBiker View Post

And, if he's ready to change them for 1K by taking your stock tyres, stop reading this and run back to that shop.

................+1

Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post

my Fiero F2's tappets have never been set in its lifetime of 51K kms.

**ameyashogun** · 04-02-2010, 06:41 PM

Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post

First of all, at 2.7K kms., I don't think that is a tappet issue, unless you have done a MotoMan run-in i.e., very harsh riding during 1st 1000kms.
It most likely is the cam chain tensioner-get it tightened at the next visit to SVC.
2ndly about the idling, maybe it was set when the engine was cold, thats why it shows 1K RPM when cold&then increases when the engine is warm.
Get the idling set or set by yourself when the engine is warm, then review the situation. Carb tuning is a rare case.
I guess your problem will be solved by these 2 minor adjustments, if it still isn't, then maybe you really have to look into the tappet/carb.
These bikes don't need frequent tappet setting-my Fiero F2's tappets have never been set in its lifetime of 51K kms.
Of course the RTR is a high revving machine, but I don't think carb/valve clearance issues can creep in this early.

Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post

Dont get the tappets set, the ringing noice you're hearing is very much normal cuz if the mech will tighten it little more than required, then it'll eat up the performance.

Actually the alarmingly ringing noice is normal too, cuz when i got the same, i went to my friend mech and he opened and chcked the head and refused to tighten it.

switch to semi synth and then to fully synth after 8000kms, till then change ur oil every 2000-2500kms (semi synth)

when you got ur idling set? at hot engine or cold?
Idling is NEVER set at cold engine.

Thank you guys for your valuable feed back

which semi synthetic oil should i go for thinking of motul
and idling is set when engine is hot.

may i am thinking to much about noise
and hey Run in is done properly no harsh riding
1st 550km ODO below 4000 RPM Below 50 speed
rest till below 60 speed 1200km ODO
1500km ODO 90 speed

how much time it'll take to adjust cam chain tensioner
should i do it really?
pls feel free to comment
thank u
waiting for reply

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