It is a DIY. And you don't turn the screw in the carb to idle the engine. That screw is the A/F screw. The bigger golden screw beside it is the idling screw. Just make sure you warm the engine sufficiently before doing it (maybe take a ride for a few kms).

Turn the big golden screw till you reach the optimum rpm (1.4k) and let it stay for sometime. Then switch off the engine. Switch on to check if it is steady at 1.4k (give or take).

Yes the piston and the adjoining racers/holders could cause the noise if they dont function properly.

Ghosshhhh............anyway i was worried about it not because of the problem but because of the fact that will i be able to find a appropriate person or SVC to resolve it luckily i got one. But what could have caused this issue i dont knwo if anyone knows please post so that steps can be taken to avoid this issue. Also that guy told that nothing to be panic. Is this OK or was it damaging in any sense ?

Also i go my disc damaged it was totally rubbed as my rear disc pad was gone i recognised it too late. I was asked to change the disc as well but i settled down with the pad change for the time being will get it done next mont. Rear disc is roughly around 1200 or so............fatkaa baith gaya baithe bithaaye

Insist them on replacing it under warranty.

Need Help.

Dear Friends,

I have some query's, please help me to answer this following.

1: My RTR is just 1 week old. I recently noticed that it is consuming hell of Petrol. I suppose I am getting the average of 28 to 30 KMLP. Is this normal for the new bikes, will it get improved in the first service or some defect in the engine. Please let me know.

2: I recently installed Central locking system from Minda. I noticed that my bikes get switched off in 1 gear in the middle of the road sometimes. Is this something wrong due to that or some other thing ?
Guys i need immediate help from you please. Alternatively i can see my engine is more refined and ready to throttle now.

Thanks in advance,

Shankar

A trip to the Dealer's on Day 2

Got my baby checked at the dealer. It was figured that the chain was rubbing against the chain guard. It was should and will be fixed in da first servicing. The noise has reduced considerably though! So aint complaining!! Thinkin of a 30 - 50 km trip around Navi Mumbai, to take her through the paces... Slow riding most of the way, as I still have to get used to shifting gears!! Jus upgraded from a non geared vehicle to a geared one. But just loving every moment of riding!!!

Mileage is a complicated factor depending in riding style.. however as in general view, new bike, which is yet to have first service can have low figure.. Things should settle down at after 2nd or 3rd service.

Its hard to be sure with after market products.. please do pay a visit to the place where the system has installed, to troubleshot the issue

Loose Chain

after riding say 1000 or 1200km
chain is loose all the time
till dated ODO 12809.3
always a big prob
did anybody faced this b4?
how to setup again on our own?
pls suggest
thank you
TC
Ride Safe

AFAIK when the chain nears the end of its service life, its get elongated faster. I changed the chain and sprockets at around 18k. Getting them adjusted properly is the only way... with the right tools (namely a #27, #22, #10 spanners) its quite easy to do..

even i have got that problem,to resolve it temporarily just leave the clutch half way in a jerk the way you do while popping a wheelie but only a little enough to make it jurk ahead and then instntly pull back the clutch,it'll come back to its orignal idling.

Attaching few pics of the tools I use when adjusting the chain... Now, I have seen some stupid mechanics loosening just the bolt on the right side and adjusting the chain, but that should not be followed. The bolts at both the sides should be loosened enough so that the axle can move freely in its slot, then adjust the small nuts equally on both sides. Once enough tension is achieved, reverse the process to tighten the axle in place....

Hey Brother if you have the settings of the carburetor please let me know it will help me by making my bike more grunty. from one racer to another please get the info from our mech and share it with me If you have a K&N RC1060 fitted on your bike.

It's normal.

Setting the slack of the chain should be done in a right way, please be sure of opening the rear sproaket nut, then match the 'lines' (marks on the swingarm) right.

If you have never done it before, get it done at the SC, learn it there, and do it next time by yourself.

ITs of now use buddy....they hardy care

Thanks man......but if it would have been indore i mean my home town then i would have surely grilled them on this........but i am in pune so you know its the only showroom which has a bit of expertise plus they are flooded with lot of sirvice bikes daily so i fight with them on this and they say u can give some where else and then i inquire the grievances and all that.......will loose time and its too far from my place takes around 12-14Km....rest showrooms sucks here.......also the another showroom is there which is good but its atleast 30km away from my home.....so i compromised...hey by the way i plan to check 0-60 on my devil so far i have attained 4.7 as the best...i have altered air petrol mixture as the bike was giving lots of vibrations....after changing the tacho has now become a bit stagnant i mean previously it was dancing.....so i feel the bike is now more a bit stable on vibrations side as well after changing. I asked that guy to increase a air intake a bit .....and he actually did wonders........but never mind need a tip on 0-60 sprint usually i start at around 3000-3500RPM and then go ............any other tips cause its been 1yr and i have never tasted that punch .........so need ur tip on this....

Read somewhere in this thread:

Shift at 6k-7k rpm each gear. Clutchless shifts are fine at higher rpms... and you should touch 60kph by 3rd gear and in around 4 secs (with speedo error)