As far as i recollect, the TCI unit of RTR comes in light grey covering, howz it that yours is green in color. Would you please provide the part number on the packing.

On the spark plug, its definitely running rich, check the tuning properly, the setting needs to made lean.

By the way which mechanic are you going. Not all road side mechanics would be able to adjust the setting on these bikes.

As per manual the idle rpm is 1400 + or - 100 rpm. So keeping it above 1K rpm is advisable. Not sure about the engine life, however, the engine keeps turning off if the idle rpm is too low.

I believe it could.Has something to do with the required Oil pressure i believe.

Correct,lower idling rpms will result in less circulation of oil,as a result, oil pressure would not be sufficient,so would act as a slow poison in damaging the valve train.This would lead to 'lesser' life of engine in longer run!So keep it between 1.3k-1.5k rpm as recommended.Many people have a tendency to keep lower rpm around 1k rpm.Lowering rpm other than recommended wont increase the mileage at any cost!

I guess newer batch of RTRs have green coloured TCI unit.Mine is green too.

BTW,could'nt resist posting this!

I thought 1.2 - 1.4 K is when engine is hot (That's what SVC guy told me ), My bike currently is set at 1 K RPM.

Will this really harm engine life ?

I am not facing any problem with cold start and after i start my bike for first time in a day i usually keep it at idle for about 2 mins.

keep the engine RPM around 1 or 1.5 but not more than that...and low engine RPM will never damage your engine unless it backfires when accelerated when stationary......
Engine rpm should always be less as possible...not so less that the engine back fires when you throttle up after engaging the first gear....so 1 or max 1.5 is sufficient...

Keeping the engine idling high say above 1.5 to 2 or even 2.5 will cause the engine to heat up fast resulting in lag and more fuel usage....your bike will also feel sluggish if you are doing more than 40-50kms per day!!!!
Most of the Apaches i have come acrossed have low engine idling speed...its hardly noticeable if the engine is running.......

Thanks for clarification Dude, It really helped!

Today I installed the 15T front gear sprocket on my JRTR192. Hits 100kmph in top gear at a shade below 7k rpm mark... waiting for the weekend....
Those who want to go for it, few tips:
1. Buy the 15T gear sprocket of UG3 pulsars.
2. When buying, also buy the sprocket holder ring as the stock one do not suit the new one
3. Also buy the screws for the new sprocket as the stock ones maybe smaller than the new one

The awesome acceleration has faded (not completely lost, mind you)... but its the price to pay for a better top end..

7k-100
what will happen at 11.5k
now i am also waiting for week end..

A 15T sprocket gives a bump of 7% in speed on all the RPM range(compared to original Sprockets speed).

At 7k rpm RTR180 runs at 93 kmph so after alteration it will give 100kmph.

All this from my own experience with sprocketing to 15T but bikes awesome pull will definately gets affected. It takes more time to reach to these speed.

It feels like there is some sort of resistance somewhere but lijok bike will perform much better than our stock pieces.

Cracked alloy wheel

Guys i learnt it hard way after a crack on the Alloy wheel.

I ride RTR180 and because of riding her on type of terrains and this results in a slight bent in rear wheel(crashing in pot holes in high speed).

Checked here and there a found that the slight bent in alloys wheel can be fixed, but senior members here as well as SVC people cautioned me not to go for this, instead get a new one.

But to save some cash, i went ahead and checked in Karol Bagh and found a shop for this. And the f**k*r used hammer to fix the bent.

After a lot of hammering one of the spoke cracked in two pieces and came out. The shithead than welded it, painted and said there wont be any probelm with the cracked alloy wheel and he have fixed everything

And the top of the broken alloy wheel he also was not able to put the tubeless tyre back on it and put a tube to fix it temporarily.

There is now more bent in the rear wheel after all this bent removal process.

All in all only a though came in mind "I am F****d".
Now i am riding a bike with cracked(welded) rear alloy wheel. Although m looking for a change soon

Total monitory damage for all this
450(labour charge+tube+welding)+ 3700(will be for a new alloy wheel)+ 1900(will be for new tyre)+ 5 hours of torture while waiting there.

So guys i am requesting you all, learn my mistake and dont go for an alloy wheel repair better get it changed.

meetoo meetoo

New alloys cost 3.7k

Even I did the same mistake of getting my alloys hammered No repeating the mistake again and luckily no crack or anything. It's run more than 8k kms now...

IRC bliss!

Guys,IRC have turned the RTR into a monster! Corners do not scare the bike anymore.It wants to eat them now.Feedback from the rear is just wonderful.It really sticks to the ground.No more bumpiness!

come on it aint stainless steel,its alooy and its brittle and will break if hammering is done.Change it asap,dont risk your life riding that bike!