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Thanks guys, will be posting pictures when the sun is shining brightly.Originally posted by AK3D View Post1: Spark Plug replacement is needed.
(Which sparkplug to fit, any suggestion?)
3: Go to your mechanic ASAP and have the pipe refitted (and also post a photograph for our reference, perhaps someone with more knowledge will be able to advise you)-
This morning I open it myself, nothing serious about the broken pipe, its just the overflow pipe from the carb. I cut the pipe & throw the bad portion and refitted the same
)
4:The drum might be worn out, have that checked, as well as the liner springs. Check for free play from the brake foot lever onwards to the screws that connect at the end.
(The brake shoe is all worn out, I will replace it next week)
5:Have the rear shocks adjusted to a softer setting. The oil might need to be replaced as well.
(This issue is still pending)
6:Keep it stock, I guess. IMO, the CBZ is very comfortable to ride with the stock suspension.
7:I had the Geo Monster - sort of skittish, but a hard wearing tyre. You could go in for an MRF zapper to suit your style. Refer to the tyre thread. Zapper FS for the front and Zapper Q or Y for the rear. Other people can give inputs regarding Michelin as I have no experience with those.
(I guess I will go stock with eh MRF Zapper Y)
8:Can only be the Cone set bearings or the fork oil seals. Have both checked. (Pending)
9:Unfortunately, that's the reality of owning a CBZ, parts are hard to get. I sold it off and bought a used Karizma instead
. (Had an offer for Rs.30,000/- will decide to release or to keep it for good)
However I do love the flickability of the CBZ as well as its riding comfort in the city.
10:Nothing like it. The original CBZ is an amazing machine and while parts are hard to get, if you can get them and restore it, it'll stand out even among the newer bikes."on eagles' wings"
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NGK G Power - the model that will fit the CBZ is DPR8EGPOriginally posted by adzeals View Post1: Spark Plug replacement is needed.
(Which sparkplug to fit, any suggestion?)
7:I had the Geo Monster - sort of skittish, but a hard wearing tyre. You could go in for an MRF zapper to suit your style. Refer to the tyre thread. Zapper FS for the front and Zapper Q or Y for the rear. Other people can give inputs regarding Michelin as I have no experience with those.
(I guess I will go stock with eh MRF Zapper Y)
The MRF's are long lasting, but lack grip, keep that in mind as well.
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[QUOTE=metalghost;853114]Mate,,,,I was sure of this because i experienced it,,,,kind of disturbing sound wen riding smooth,,,,and finally i bought rake caliper servicing kit for rs 550 and serviced calipers by changing piston seals and caliper bushes,,,,actually kit comes with pistons but use existing pistons as new one is duplicate so wil rust very fast its my experience bro,,,,,Originally posted by lichin View PostBro that sound is not issue with disc plate but is because of the worn out rubber bushes that holds the caliper to the stem,,,try changing old bushes and see the piston washers and seals for worn out,,,,overhaul it by changing bushes and washers,,,and check dot 3 or dot 4 brake fluid and air in oil hose...[/]
Well, I'm sorry to admit, I did a mistake by changing the disc plate in haste, without consulting proper experts and taking proper advices. Yes, the sound from the caliper remains. It was not there for around a week after I changed the disc plate and I thought I eventually solved the irritating issue. But the sound came back as soon as I took my bike for a long trip and encountered some bad roads. Then I realized the sound, even though produced by the calipers, was not the work of the disc plate. It was being produced by the calipers itself due to fitting issues. I was frantically going through Wikipedia page which talks about disc plate/brake systems when I saw your post. Next thing I am gonna have my mechs do is a thorough check of the caliper and see whether the said bushes and washers are screwed up. I will get them changed if they are out of condition. Also I'll get the piston washers for their efficiency. Thanks bro, for valuable advice, I needed it very well before though. I could have avoided wastage of INR 1,050/- I did on the new disc plate.
I'll keep you all posted on the progress. Thanks, as always.
[QUOTE=metalghost;853114]Mate,,,,I was sure of this because i experienced it,,,,kind of disturbing sound wen riding smooth,,,,and finally i bought rake caliper servicing kit for rs 550 and serviced calipers by changing piston seals and caliper bushes,,,,actually kit comes with pistons but use existing pistons as new one is duplicate so wil rust very fast its my experience bro,,,,,all these work were done myself,,,,Originally posted by lichin View PostBro that sound is not issue with disc plate but is because of the worn out rubber bushes that holds the caliper to the stem,,,try changing old bushes and see the piston washers and seals for worn out,,,,overhaul it by changing bushes and washers,,,and check dot 3 or dot 4 brake fluid and air in oil hose...[/]
Well, I'm sorry to admit, I did a mistake by changing the disc plate in haste, without consulting proper experts and taking proper advices. Yes, the sound from the caliper remains. It was not there for around a week after I changed the disc plate and I thought I eventually solved the irritating issue. But the sound came back as soon as I took my bike for a long trip and encountered some bad roads. Then I realized the sound, even though produced by the calipers, was not the work of the disc plate. It was being produced by the calipers itself due to fitting issues. I was frantically going through Wikipedia page which talks about disc plate/brake systems when I saw your post. Next thing I am gonna have my mechs do is a thorough check of the caliper and see whether the said bushes and washers are screwed up. I will get them changed if they are out of condition. Also I'll get the piston washers for their efficiency. Thanks bro, for valuable advice, I needed it very well before though. I could have avoided wastage of INR 1,050/- I did on the new disc plate.
I'll keep you all posted on the progress. Thanks, as always.
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Guys, tell me one thing, please. My CBZ recently started producing extra noise from engine and I took her to an authorized service center where they changed the tensioner. Things were good for a month till the noise re-started. I took her again to the same service center day before yesterday and they told me sometimes timing chain also needs to be replaced along with tensioner. As they are the mechanics and I am an end-user, I didn't have a choice than to listen to what they are saying and agreed to change the timing chain also. Problem of the earlier irritating sound seemed to have solved now. But engine is not producing feeble whistling sound at low RPMs and also when RPM goes down between gear shifts. Also, it seems idle speed is also at some trouble as engine stalls when no throttle is applied. Moreover, I honestly feel pick-up of the vehicle also is affected drastically. I cannot feel that power coming out of engine anymore. I am writing this with my experience of two days riding after changing the timing chain. Has anyone encountered same/identical problem? Can someone please help me?
I meant to say, "engine is NOW producing a feeble whistling sound at low RPMs".Originally posted by metalghost View PostGuys, tell me one thing, please. My CBZ recently started producing extra noise from engine and I took her to an authorized service center where they changed the tensioner. Things were good for a month till the noise re-started. I took her again to the same service center day before yesterday and they told me sometimes timing chain also needs to be replaced along with tensioner. As they are the mechanics and I am an end-user, I didn't have a choice than to listen to what they are saying and agreed to change the timing chain also. Problem of the earlier irritating sound seemed to have solved now. But engine is not producing feeble whistling sound at low RPMs and also when RPM goes down between gear shifts. Also, it seems idle speed is also at some trouble as engine stalls when no throttle is applied. Moreover, I honestly feel pick-up of the vehicle also is affected drastically. I cannot feel that power coming out of engine anymore. I am writing this with my experience of two days riding after changing the timing chain. Has anyone encountered same/identical problem? Can someone please help me?
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What is your current idling RPM? ensure its 1100 for the CBZ so that the engine doesn't turn off after decelerating in traffic, or while idling. You might also need to get the AFR tuned.Originally posted by metalghost View Postand also when RPM goes down between gear shifts. Also, it seems idle speed is also at some trouble as engine stalls when no throttle is applied. Moreover, I honestly feel pick-up of the vehicle also is affected drastically. I cannot feel that power coming out of engine anymore. I am writing this with my experience of two days riding after changing the timing chain. Has anyone encountered same/identical problem? Can someone please help me?
I meant to say, "engine is NOW producing a feeble whistling sound at low RPMs".
I'm stumped as to the whistling sound. Did you have the Oil changed as well? Try the Motul 3000V Plus 20W40 (it gave me great results on my CBZ - gear shifts were VERY smooth, and the engine felt very refined). This was after I had the clutch plates changed.
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Thanks for the reply, buddy. My idling was 1100 before I gave it to service center, but then it dropped to 800. I was running on 800 last two days. This could be the reason why engine was stalling during gear shift and low RPMs. I did an oil change 1 month back and for the first time I had tried ELF 20W50 Synthetic and engine was running smooth, except for the timing chain problem I mentioned. I took her back to the same service center today morning. They opened the timing chain cover in front of me and BANG....No oil flow to timing chain set!!! Timing chain and the gears on which the timing chain was wound, were running dry. This was producing the feeble whistling sound. They assume the oil pump which helps oil to rise towards timing chain might have stopped functioning. I assume this could be also the reason for low performance of the vehicle last two days. They are checking it now. I am now taking chutti from office for half an hour and gonna check what is going on. Will keep you all posted soon. Thank you. =)Originally posted by AK3D View PostWhat is your current idling RPM? ensure its 1100 for the CBZ so that the engine doesn't turn off after decelerating in traffic, or while idling. You might also need to get the AFR tuned.
I'm stumped as to the whistling sound. Did you have the Oil changed as well? Try the Motul 3000V Plus 20W40 (it gave me great results on my CBZ - gear shifts were VERY smooth, and the engine felt very refined). This was after I had the clutch plates changed.
Lol... Sorry for the confusing language. Sound from inside engine was kinda continuous squeaking, rather than feeble whistling sound.Originally posted by metalghost View PostThanks for the reply, buddy. My idling was 1100 before I gave it to service center, but then it dropped to 800. I was running on 800 last two days. This could be the reason why engine was stalling during gear shift and low RPMs. I did an oil change 1 month back and for the first time I had tried ELF 20W50 Synthetic and engine was running smooth, except for the timing chain problem I mentioned. I took her back to the same service center today morning. They opened the timing chain cover in front of me and BANG....No oil flow to timing chain set!!! Timing chain and the gears on which the timing chain was wound, were running dry. This was producing the feeble whistling sound. They assume the oil pump which helps oil to rise towards timing chain might have stopped functioning. I assume this could be also the reason for low performance of the vehicle last two days. They are checking it now. I am now taking chutti from office for half an hour and gonna check what is going on. Will keep you all posted soon. Thank you. =)Last edited by metalghost; 10-19-2012, 02:51 PM.
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No you cant replace with pulsar 200 swing arm as its bigger in size,,,but i would recommend you to go for fz swing arm and monoshocks as its so comfortable ,,,,and its angle also suits cbz.but before u buy all these stuffs check with a good mechanic who can also do some alteration work if slight adjustment is required in fitting.Originally posted by piyush zambani View Posti want to change cbz xtreme into monoshock.it has rear tyre of 130/80/18 which cant b fitted in unicorn swingarm,can i go for pulsar 200 ns swingarm???
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Wow...!! That's a lovely looking CBZ you've got there, bro. Good mods and neatly kept. Well done..!!! Seems you've got the disc plate changed, eh? Unicorn or Extreme? Does the new disc plate give you problems? I mean, squeaking or any other kind of sounds? And is that blue factory paint or did you get the body repainted also?Originally posted by scorpio2win View Post[ATTACH=CONFIG]83845[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83846[/ATTACH]
Three years back I got few modifications done on my bike with wheels (from CBZ Xtreme first generation) and painted engine plus some more parts black
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Thank you dude....Disc plate comes from Xtreme...No problems at all with the disc plate...All mods were done through authorised service centre...The paint is the same factory blue paint which I got in 2003 (except the TPFC shrouds which I got changed whenever they broke)...Probably teflon coating at every service helped me to maintain the paint well.Originally posted by metalghost View PostWow...!! That's a lovely looking CBZ you've got there, bro. Good mods and neatly kept. Well done..!!! Seems you've got the disc plate changed, eh? Unicorn or Extreme? Does the new disc plate give you problems? I mean, squeaking or any other kind of sounds? And is that blue factory paint or did you get the body repainted also?
The only problem I faced after modifications is the top speed of the bike which got reduced by 5-10%...it struggles to go beyond 90kmph on speedo (earlier it easily touched 105kmph)....On suggestion of the service guy I also tried changing clutch plates but the results were not as expected...Can it be due to the wheels as I have heard that alloy wheels are heavier in weight than the normal spoke wheels?
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Workshop manual!
Guys, I haven't heard back from the guy who promised to help scan the manual, hence I will be giving it away to someone who can scan and share the same here. I've landed upon the original (yes!) workshop manual which I had given to a friend to return to the mechanic before I left India. Turns out, the lazy bum never did that and I found it lying in his room.
Please PM me your phone number and address, and do make sure you can give the scanned manual here before requesting for it. I will post the name and phone number of the person who I send to, so that others can bother him untill he posts the scan of the manual
. The copy is spiral bound and in immaculate condition.
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