Its been a while

Hi Everyone,
Its been a while now. 2+ years and I am back. Same old bike Same old color. Everything is untouched, except for few problems that I witnessed due to my brother riding my bike when I away. Hopefully everything has been fixed now and taken care of. Lets see how it fairs...I am quite excited. Also in talks with Genius Joel for big bore 180cc for my 12 year old kitty now. Its been 12 years still she doesn't break a breath, Stands tall with most pulsars and give them run for their money. Love the way she is and the way she is going still going strong and I am making decent 250 kms on a stretch. I have decided that I won't be selling her for any price people may give. I'll keep her for life although the new KTM 200 is looking good on the cards, books whatever...All said looking forward for 1st Service after 2 years, spanking new clutch plates probably ones from zma and a little tit bits of patch up work here and there. Check Attached. Isn't she looking utterly cute...Thats my kinky Kylie...

Welcome back Maxx.

Did u get any positive response from Joel for BB kit? I inquired earlier but it was not available.

Do post if u get any update from Joel. Thanks

Yes the big bore's are available and it really depends on what you want and what your budget is.
For me the list goes as:
Big bore 180cc, 175.x something precisely enough.
Free flow exhaust from Race Concepts,
High lift Cam Shaft's from Race Concepts,
A Filter, don't know if that is different than K&N that I already own
a 32mm Carb.
Wish I could have got the stroker too....But for this time I can only do these many mods.
Hopefully can stroke it at later time, when someone offers stroking in india or else better way, Send it to the US for stroking.

Log Continues:
1st Servicing all done. Kick Started my bike, High Idling speed is what I found. Took it to other service station and got it fixed. Rides like a brand new Bike. I think there is no problem left in engine now. [email protected], Rides so much easily up till 9000. I think it has just hit the sweet spot. Using ZMA clutch plates. Pickup is exceptional. Before the servicing the power used to come at 3.5, but pickup roll in quite early. 2nd and 3rd gear roll is equally good. Thanks to the ZMA high lift cam. More than happy with the setup I have got. The bike looks old, next up changes in cosmetic segment. Please hold. Apart from that an important thing, although she looks like a 12 year old but she has so many horses that she would keep even the newer ones to shame. In short performance wise, she can give most modern bikes a run for their money. Not quite sure if she would really beat them to the line. Remember the saying old is gold. People usually comment she has high vibes one which is specially seen in Enfield's line up. Vibes give an idea of how much power she holds under her...That's always a good feeling you get when you ride any cbz, and the thumps...I am in love with those thumps...Modern bikes no vibes no thumbs, nothing really distinguishes from other in look and feel department. You ride a CB Dazzler or you ride the CBZ extreme. They are so much refined these days that they sound almost similar. Will post when I get the cosmetic changes done to her.

Hi Maxx,

Even i have a CBZ* 2004 model. So are the ZMA (new model) clutch plates a direct fit for the CBZ? what about the clutch springs ? do you have any idea? I had read over the internet quite some time back that stiffer clutch springs also help in improving the pickup to some extent.

Sunilyo: Not the new model precisely speaking ZMR...The ZMA old ones are fully compatible with CBZ. That's because the old cbz and old zma share the same engine architecture. Yes stiffer clutch springs would surely help and you might get improved performance. I did stick with the existing ones instead.

Thanks maxx for responding. So any idea from where i can source these clutch springs? and also are they model specific?

Recent update :
My mechanic put in Karizma OEM clutch plates and harder springs. The bike feels entirely new in its acceleration. I have not tested the top end on the highway yet.
I also had him use Motul 3000v 20W40 oil, the engine feels much smoother overall.
There was oil leakage from the engine sides, so he has bought the head gaskets/seals. Hopefully that problem should be solved once they're inserted.
My only current issue is that the brakes are spongy, but we plan to put in new DOT4 fluid and check for air in the brake hose this weekend, so all should be good with the bike.

Hi
I have a 2001 CBZ couple of months ago i had an issue where the bike refused to start and I took it to the closest mechanic who told me that there was compression loss and removed the spark plug put some oil in gave it a few kicks and the refitted the spark plug and started up the engine which came to life... Another 2000 odd km , last week the bike refused to start again .. the mech did the same trick and it came to life.. Today i took her to the regualar mech and he suggested that i check the tappets before going to open up the engine.
Is the tappets related to the loss in compression (he claims thier tight so it could be an issue). Or is opening up the engine the only way to fix this. the bike is 38k old and i am the second owner the previous owner had the bike vary rearly used(mayb 1-2km in 2-3 months) and mostly sitting.I dont really want to spend... But if I have to...

So do i let him adjust the tappets or Make him redo the engine?

From your description the rings are loosing compression as the bike was lying idle for long. So the rings are sticking and making them loose compression. While the oil is dropped in the combustion chamber the rings seals again and then once again after some time loose compression. Let your mechanic adjust tappets but i think it will not make your problem correct.
And please do not open the complete engine as a factory fitted engine is best. Simply from the top open the head and bore and inspect the bore if it is worn or out of round. I bet it will be not. Then clean the piston and bring a set of new rings. Lightly hone the bore. The honing should be such that no material is removed and only the crisscross mark are made on the liner.This will serve as run-in for new rings. Polish the valves. If the bore is worn simply change to new bore kit. If the timing chain is worn change it and if clutch plate is worn then change it as compression will increase and cause greater slippage.
And do not open the engine as i bet your con-rod will be like new and will last another 1 lacs km without opening.Just do the top end job like i mentioned and the engine will feel like new. It will take a maximum of two hours. This one i am saying from my experience as most of my friends who have been advised to open engine by SVC at low kilometers have come to me for help and my mechanic does the same.
And take the following care-
If the bore,piston and valves are not worn out then please do not change it as they are original japan parts and now you get Indian parts. They do not have the same quality. Trust me they will not wear out at 38k and i have seen cbz run 1.5 lacs before requiring overhaul.


@all- i am really jealous of you. Although i own a joy and cbz extreme i am on the look out for the old cbz. Although i will not sell my extreme as it is only 7 months old but i will keep the cbz with my present two bikes. I love hero honda bikes and like to keep the best from their stables in my garage. My friend has one in best condition and i have tried to entice him to sell it but he doesn't sells it.I have come across many used one but they are in such condition that they are not fit to give cbz name.
My first dream was a blue cbz but back then i was a child and thus my dream remained a dream. Now i am on the look out and one day i will sure acquire one.

Hey Sibun

Thanks for the quick reply.I shall make sure he just does the above.I tried today I was able to touch 105km/h with easy. Iv also noticed if the engine is cold it just cuts off in a few secs if i leave the accelarator But if its warm(I takes a while to warm up in this weather). It fires properly.Also If I continue to use the bike in its current condition can i cause more damage ?

Guys, continuation of above post. I am today going to change my disc plate to that of original old CBZ, as I am now running on a Unicorn or an Extreme plate for last 1.5 years and it has been giving troubles (mentioned in my earlier posts). I did a test with an old CBZ disc plate + the existing pad assembly yesterday and there was no squeaking or any other sounds. So, I decided. Shell out some more and get a new disc plate. HH service center says original disc plate comes for INR 1,050/-. Is it correct? As far as I've dealt with this HH Service center in Vishrantwadi (Pune), he's been honest and his mechanics are proper and have good knowledge of what they do. So, I am giving it a shot. I am planning to go for a trip to Lonavla this Sunday with the new disc and check its efficiency. What I noticed yesterday when I tested old CBZ disc plate was, the braking power is very low, even lower than a worn out drum. May be because the pad got used to the existing disc and didn't get accustomed to the new one. I hope the problem will be solved after some rides. So, I'm just keeping my fingers crossed the problem gets solved.

I suggest you get the brake fluid changed to DOT4 first. Also check for any air in the hose (you will need to bleed the brake fluid for that - follow the apache detailed instructions given on XBHP)
Another issue (as happened with me) could be that the spring/seal underneath the top brake fluid container has gone bad, leading to low braking efficiency. Have your mechanic look into that as well.

Thanks for the reply, buddy.. But I already got the disc plate changed, I didn't get the original old CBZ disc plate though. It is now running on an Achiever disc plate. I hope it doesn't make any problems anymore as it is running smooth as of now, even though it is not even an hour since I changed it. The mechs refilled the brake fluid as well, but I didn't notice whether it was DOT4 or not. Anyway, my problem was not low braking efficiency, it was strange sound coming out of the pad assembly, only while a particular portion on the diameter of the disc goes into it. Precisely, sound is produced only when this portion goes into the pad assembly, creating periodical sound - not the normal squeaking sound. The sound was something like a bolt or a screw or some metal getting rubbed against another one. More or less like "krrr...kr...krrrrr...", periodically as the disc spins. I repeat, it was not the normal squeaking which can be solved by adjusting the pad distance from disc plate. I consulted 3 mechs before, but none could solve it. So, I finally decided to go for new disc plate and it happened today. Anyway, braking efficiency is very low now, but I suppose it is because of the new disc plate. It should get accustomed to the pads and regular braking pressure. I'll post updates on how the new disc is functioning.

There could be various reasons for cold start:

a. high viscosity engine oil - try using 10W30 from HH SVC or other brand like Motul 10W40 SS / 20W40 Mineral etc.
b. air filter is clogged.
c. air/fuel mixture is not tuned properly
d. spark plug either requires cleaning or changing (maybe an Iridium plug)
e. try changing the ignition cable to something like split fire cables (do not have any experience with these just heard about them)