Re: Kawasaki Ninja 250R

hey thanks again dude...owe you one. Your location says B'lore, but you seem to be based in Bombay...is it?

Cheers...

Re: Kawasaki Ninja 250R

I was in mumbai for 6 years. recently moved to bangalore
Regards,
Mithun

Re: Kawasaki Ninja 250R

The Temperature Gauge needle position is correct for optimum engine performance. Any reading above 3/4th is dangerous and engine should be stopped and allowed to cool

Re: Kawasaki Ninja 250R

Ninja uses a H7 instead of H4 bulbs.
At the service center they are generally fitting the Pulsar 220 ones which would cost around 400+ or so and would last around 5k kms or more .



Thanks for the info. but i have heard that at other places they are selling the same battery at 3500 or more so just wanted to confirm the price.

Re: Kawasaki Ninja 250R

[QUOTE=vkuchhal;1086072]Ninja uses a H7 instead of H4 bulbs.
At the service center they are generally fitting the Pulsar 220 ones which would cost around 400+ or so and would last around 5k kms or more .

Thanks dude...

Re: Kawasaki Ninja 250R

i am not sure how helpful the foll. is going to be:-

1. if there are other motorcycle forums/clubs that are near you and of which you are a member, then find out from them a trustworthy local mechanic.
2. you can try and take a chance to push start the bike and it will be easier if you have a downhill slope around you.
3. you can jump start the bike (but i am not sure how advisable that is) there are many online 250r forums where you will find the DOs and DONTs of giving it a jump with a spare battery/vehicle.

or you can approach the serv. centre mechanic and try and sweet talk him to come n take a look at your bike (before or after or out of his working hours ;-) )
this will be the safest way as far as DIY methods go!!

Good Luck and let us know!!

Re: Kawasaki Ninja 250R

Here is a point about battery

if you continue using a dead battery it will damage your charger/rectifier for no doubt and then you pay for both a new battery and rectifier so changing

the battery is a better choice over everything .

If you use some thing like VRLA sealed MF battery first :

pour the acid bottle gently to last drop then leave the battery top open for as long as you have time (if you check the battery you won't hear buzz sound from inside caused by chemical effects of acid on battery plates).

then sealed the top with that plastic thing that covers top of your acid bottle (do it little by little on each hole dont try to insert the sealer fully at once take time and do it )

use a charger and charge the battery with specified information printed on battery (use a charger with cutoff system )

then use it on your bike .recharge every six months and it will last at least twice more than regular prepared battery.

Re: Kawasaki Ninja 250R

i had Purchased it for Ninja 250. they are really better than Pirelli Sport daemon which was on before.
Michilin front and rear set cost 10k aprox. Do note to replace old air filling nozzle.

bike become a whole different handling package. it is very tipsy side to side. Once you get used to it it becomes second in nature. Michelin makes Pirelli a obsolete Tyre. except that it is 30% more than same size from other brands.
The Grooves are deep and i think they will last a lot longer than expected. grip in Wet is really good there was no sliding or any scary popping up during rains they stop.

If any other details required do let me know.

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Hi

Get H7 from Osram Night Racer. its Rs 350 a unit i think.
Gives same OE look with a bit more sharper light. Installation is touch and remember the locking clip and the lamp adapter which holds the Bulb. it takes about 15 mins to do the work. when replacing replace both and keep the non fused bulb as spare.

Re: Sprockets


I am Late to Reply. But any ways for future requirement can use this information.

Sprockets are available for Ninja 47T rear from Tyga Performance. if you do not mind to spend the extra then go for it. i am using 14T to 47 T on . its made wonders for Ninja. Good Pick up comfort to ride in high speeds. Top speed indicated @ 150 Max. since Rpm reach 12500rpm.

also checked 13T to 47T. if any one rides only in city rarely on highways then got for it. The Motorcycle is a hooligan. 1st gear would make KTM 390 look like what went wrong.
Awsome feel. top gear at 100km open up then your are wooooooooosh eat dirt. Top speed is a plummeting 130Km RPM max out.

13T to 43T is a sensible one since it balances top speed to pick up. goes better than stock no need to change the 106 link chain. if using 47T need to use 108 Link chain.

13t: From Japan (webbike japan)
47t: from Taiwan (tyga performance)

there is a image of this on my album.

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130$ for OE replacement. Try EBC X series rotors, i think it will be a floating rotor. it will be expensive. if not that rout Check web bike Japan for ninja 250 parts.

30% charge is expected if your package is taken by Customs. if not You are lucky person.

Re: Sprockets

hey Guys,

Just wanted to clear some doubt which I have. I have ridden N250 and found the punch over 7k RPM. Is there any way to bring down the power band below like from 4k or 5k rpm. like sprocketing or adding an piggyback ecu with custom mapping. I would like to buy an N250 but I do like to cruise comfortably between 110-130kmph and like a little punch between 4k - 6k rpm.

Any suggstions???

Battery Low

Guys...need some help. Can anyone help me with a step by step DIY N250R battery removal? Been facing issue of getting the bike started (not getting used regularly). The battery is not completely dead; backlights and other indicators light up, plus a 'dhakka' start works.

Planning to get its voltage checked. What should the ideal figure be, and would an overnight charging help? What's the best way to figure out if the battery is in working condition and only needs a recharge.

Appreciate any kind of guidance. Thank you in advance.

Cheers...

Re: Battery Low

Guys...anyone...please

Re: Battery Low

Hope I'm not too late, myself changed my oem Yuasa battery (11,000rs) to Exide ETZ9 (1850rs) yesterday. The oem battery was giving issues for months now with a delay in cold start. However, during my visit to the ISG2G at Wayanad Tomahawk (my Ninja) won't start on the 2nd day after reaching Wayanad. Thanks to my brotherly xBhpians along, I was able to start by push start on few occasions on the way back home. Coming back to your query,

1) Unscrew the side panel screws (1 star screws on each side)
2) Remove each panel from the clip locks. (3 clip locks on a side)
3) Unscrew the two Allen screws of the seat, push the seat backwards to remove it from the clip locks.
4) Unscrew 3 star screws to remove the battery cover
5) Remove the terminal cables (ensure ignition is turned off)
6) Pick up the battery

Fixing it back is just reverse process.

The Oem battery spec is 12V-8A, the one I bought now is 12V-9A.

Issues faced/noted before change : Indicators on the console will fade off after key is turned on, the Battery was bulged on the sides (denoting it's a weak battery and charging won't help).

A YouTube video to assist you further with the battery removal, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQXp...e_gdata_player

Sent from 'La Suisse'

Re: Battery Low

Thanks a ton Bro...managed to do this yesterday using the same video.

Got my battery charged; still bike doesnt start. My next guess is the charger coil may be at fault...what do you think? Any idea on the replacement and $$ for the same?

The mechanic pointed out some bulges on the battery (stock)? Anything of concern? Was suggested by N_Aditya to consider the Duke 200 battery as a cheaper alt.; is it the same one you've mentioned (Exide ETZ9)?

Re: Battery Low

Bulges on the battery makes it a bad battery and charging won't help. It's not the charger coil issue.

Yes, you can go for Exide ETZ9 as the cheaper alternative.

Sent from 'La Suisse'