Well I want to keep my bike and I have made my mind on it. In its lifespan of 6 years and odo clocked at 53k, with being abused continuously throughout its life, this is the first time I would be spending so much money on my steed. Only the tyres, clutch wire and the clutch plates and the tail light bulbs have been changed. Odo has gone kaput now and since am currently living in a remote area of Uttarakhand, there is no one who knows how to fix a digital meter.
Well I would go for the engine work and fix all the other niggles at once. Then I will notice how it behaves after fixing all those issues. If it keeps on giving me problems after problems and if I have to spend more than 2500 on an yearly basis, I will sell it off. But with a Heavy Heart

Your problems are quite specific, just blatantly changing valves, timing chain etc won't be of much use. I am assuming (based on your own replies) that you mostly drive at high rpm's, heavily accelerating from low rpm's like 2000 or 3000, drive at high rpm's with a cold engine, you don't idle the engine for 1-2 minutes to allow the engine to warm up nicely. Hence, all these engine problems are occurring at just 53000 kms of running.

First check whether you need new clutch plates or not. Drive in 3rd gear, release the throttle completely and let the speed fall to 1-12 kmph then try to accelerate immediately with a heavy twist. If the engine doesn't knock horribly (i mean bike picks up speed slowly but without any hiccups or knocking) then & ONLY THEN you should change your clutch plates.

I am not entirely sure about the khat khat noise, but it can't be the cam rockers, they rarely need replacement. The valves may have been bent and disfigured resulting in the khat khat noise. That would need a complete valve kit change.

Piston rings are definitely gone, that's the reason for consumption of engine oil and white smoke. Reboring with a new pison and rings is the cheaper option. I would suggest changing complete block piston kit and replace with genuine Hero parts. Also buy NGK G-Power spark plug for karizma, it gives slightly better combustion and low end torque. Don't go for the NGK Iridium ones, they are as useless in karizma as a turbo booster!

In reality, you are at the mercy of the mechanic. If the mechanic is trustworthy and not greedy, he will guide you to change only the necessary parts. But if he is greedy and looking to increase revenue of the service center, he will try to change a lot of parts together with expensive labor charges.

Once you get all this engine work done, follow running-in procedure meticulously. Till 1000 kms, drive below 5000 rpm but not at the same rpm constantly, keep varying the rpm's slowly. Also warm up the engine at idle rpm, don't rev it in order to save time (I idle 1 minute during summer and 2-3 minutes during winter). Even after warming up, drive smoothly at least for 2-3 kms, after that you can drive as you wish.

1.The piston/piston rings, use only usha
2.Valves.
3.Polishing of rocker arms
This much would definitely do the job if no other damage is there

In my case ,i installed most of the parts engine new to make all parts work properly and bike could be same as a new bike.
I replaced the above mentioned parts and
rocker arms,timing chain,cam shaft,clutch plates,mainly due to the reason i didnt want to open engine again after half engine work.
I would suggest to replace these consumable parts on a bike on 50k + kms on odo ,so that you dont have to visit workshop again.

The run in period in my case as told by my mechanic(he runs his own workshop now,earlier he worked at hero honda svc for 5-6 years) was 1000kms.
But i streched it to 1500 kms ,so that the piston can be seated properly.
I didnt rode with pillion during these 1500 kms as told by my mechanic.If riding with a pillion is not a neccesity dont opt for it ,and if you have no option then do it atleast after 500km.
I spend a lot on my bike ,so i didnt took any risk with anything, different people would advice you different things,but to be on safer side i didnt ride with pillion(my mechanic told me the same).

Living in hills,i dont think would case problems much ,but dont go on a very steep slope with a pillion, dont go hard on the acclerator ,and make sure it dont cross 4000rpm ,and max speed should be 40-50,with occasional bursts to 60.

Also warm up your bike for 2-3 mins before going for a ride,and someday leave the bike start for 20-30 minutes 2-3 times during run in period.So that piston could sit on properly as on idle there is no load on engine and the piston could facilate normal movement.

Take care as you took of your new bike,and all will go well.

1.The piston/piston rings, use only usha
2.Valves.
3.Polishing of rocker arms
This much would definitely do the job if no other damage is there

In my case ,i installed most of the parts engine new to make all parts work properly and bike could be same as a new bike.
I replaced the above mentioned parts and
rocker arms,timing chain,cam shaft,clutch plates,mainly due to the reason i didnt want to open engine again after half engine work.
I would suggest to replace these consumable parts on a bike on 50k + kms on odo ,so that you dont have to visit workshop again.

The run in period in my case as told by my mechanic(he runs his own workshop now,earlier he worked at hero honda svc for 5-6 years) was 1000kms.
But i streched it to 1500 kms ,so that the piston can be seated properly.
I didnt rode with pillion during these 1500 kms as told by my mechanic.If riding with a pillion is not a neccesity dont opt for it ,and if you have no option then do it atleast after 500km.
I spend a lot on my bike ,so i didnt took any risk with anything, different people would advice you different things,but to be on safer side i didnt ride with pillion(my mechanic told me the same).

Living in hills,i dont think would case problems much ,but dont go on a very steep slope with a pillion, dont go hard on the acclerator ,and make sure it dont cross 4000rpm ,and max speed should be 40-50,with occasional bursts to 60.

Also warm up your bike for 2-3 mins before going for a ride,and someday leave the bike start for 20-30 minutes 2-3 times during run in period.So that piston could sit on properly as on idle there is no load on engine and the piston could facilate normal movement.

Take care as you took of your new bike,and all will go well.

Well I do ride the bike at higher rpms. And all the assumptions you have made about my riding style are correct to an extent.
Regarding the job, I would be carrying it as soon as possible. I would go for the new pistons and a rebore job. Cam rockers, timing chain, valves all would be changed. I will check my clutch plates and then will decide whether to change them or not.

I would certainly be following the run in procedure meticulously.

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I will rebore the cylinder, change the piston,piston rings, valves, rocker arms, timing chain, clutch plates and if needed even crank,camshaft and other things.

If I change the spark plug to NGk G-power shall I do it now or wait for sometime? Also which oil should I use? I am thinking of using Motul 20w40 mineral oil. Is it the right choice?

Well I do ride the bike at higher rpms. And all the assumptions you have made about my riding style are correct to an extent.
Regarding the job, I would be carrying it as soon as possible. I would go for the new pistons and a rebore job. Cam rockers, timing chain, valves all would be changed. I will check my clutch plates and then will decide whether to change them or not.

I would certainly be following the run in procedure meticulously.

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I will rebore the cylinder, change the piston,piston rings, valves, rocker arms, timing chain, clutch plates and if needed even crank,camshaft and other things.

If I change the spark plug to NGk G-power shall I do it now or wait for sometime? Also which oil should I use? I am thinking of using Motul 20w40 mineral oil. Is it the right choice?

But my experience with shell ramula was pretty good. Because in summer there was too much heat from engine it goes down and also clutch was very smooth. However it's diesel oil I don't who recommended here but i'm fan of this oil

Im using motul 15w50 fulk synthetic, so far its best. But little bit costly, approx 530 rs for 1 ltr only, i had to keep 1 extra ltr with me to use 200ml with each oil change as karizma needs 1.2 ltr. Thats the only pain to carry extra one when going for service.

Buy 5 ltr or big qty

Shell rimula is tested by our senior members,and they suggest that it is the best engine oil for zma.
Next time i would definitely use shell rimula.

I got my engine opened today. The mechanic says that the rocker arms and camshaft, timing chain have to be changed. I will be using a .25 Usha OS piston.
I want to ask a question, will changing just the rocker arms will work? Or is it NECESSARY to change the Camshaft too?

Also the mechanic says the conrod has developed play and he want me to get for the overhaul of the crank. He is quoting 2500 for the bearings and conrod plus laboratory charges and other things.

I checked the conrod and there was a slight lateral play in it. I would check for the up and down play and if it's there I will go for it.
I did my own research and from what I found out that there should be no up and down play in the conrod. Slight lateral play won't cause problems.

Thing is changing all the things will cost me a bomb. Honestly speaking, I can't spend so much. He quotes 8-9k for replacing camshaft,rocker arms, timing chain, crank overhaul and conrod, OS piston and reboring.
Max I can spend is 4-5k.

What all things should I do, and what all can I go for?

What if I go for the head overhaul and leave the crank as it is, and do it after sometime.
Will it cause problems?

Mechanic says the crank would develop some sound if I go just for the engine head overhaul ( I don't trust him, and I think he wants to mint easy bucks).

I got my engine opened today. The mechanic says that the rocker arms and camshaft, timing chain have to be changed. I will be using a .25 Usha OS piston.
I want to ask a question, will changing just the rocker arms will work? Or is it NECESSARY to change the Camshaft too?

Also the mechanic says the conrod has developed play and he want me to get for the overhaul of the crank. He is quoting 2500 for the bearings and conrod plus laboratory charges and other things.

I checked the conrod and there was a slight lateral play in it. I would check for the up and down play and if it's there I will go for it.
I did my own research and from what I found out that there should be no up and down play in the conrod. Slight lateral play won't cause problems.

Thing is changing all the things will cost me a bomb. Honestly speaking, I can't spend so much. He quotes 8-9k for replacing camshaft,rocker arms, timing chain, crank overhaul and conrod, OS piston and reboring.
Max I can spend is 4-5k.

What all things should I do, and what all can I go for?

What if I go for the head overhaul and leave the crank as it is, and do it after sometime.
Will it cause problems?

Mechanic says the crank would develop some sound if I go just for the engine head overhaul ( I don't trust him, and I think he wants to mint easy bucks).

It does look like a realistic quote by your mechanic, considering the bill was around 4-5k for me to change cams, rockers, timing chain and timing chain tensioner, guides recently.


Btw, if you guys are having issues with sourcing parts do try http://www.thesparescompany.com/ . I have ordered a fuel unit assembly for karizma and got it within 5 days. They are selling Hero genuine spares. They even have cash on delivery option. I'll be ordering 3rd gear cogs from them shortly. Their customer service response was also pretty quick