Right now, I am not going to check for that. Will check it when I service the bike next time. Right now, my engine oil is fresh, so for another 1000km or so, I am not going to touch the bike. I am still getting 38-40 kmpl, so am not gonna touch the bike, in the name of service.

Right now I am having a very good relay, but the horns that I am using now are of low quality. They would shout whenever they want, and not whenever I want.

My old bosch horns were frisked away by my cousin and he is using them in car. I have to buy another pair soon. I am really having a tough time in city without horns.

Battery

Will the 9aH battery rectify lights dimm?

Maybe to some extent.

But - if you put a bigger battery and draw more current from it (9A vs 7.5A), you also need to increase the battery recharing rate - otherwise you will end up drawing more current at a rate faster than the battery can be recharged. Over time this will lead to a dead battery. Thats what I think.

Double charger,Rear Disc

I heard something called double charger, can any one tell me wut is it and itz installation?? and how much ill the rear disc installation cost??

I do see other Karizma's in action but Ravi's ZMA has some problem with the electricals... not a major one but the lights dimming is very clearly visible from my RVM too. That's why I was asking him reqularly abt this.

BTW, Ravi, are you still using those 10W bulbs from the CBZ Xtreme? can that be a possible cause?

KP, only when the engine is on, the blub dimming is happening. When I switch off the engine and I run the lights with battery, no dimming.

The Xtreme pilot lamps, long back I removed them. Within short span, two bulbs fused, so replaced them back with stock pilot bulbs.

Let me replace the batter first. My battery is now more than two years old with 50/60w bulb and after market horns. Definitely, the battery is not working to its optimum. After changing the battery, I will look into that problem.

@kp

CBZX pilot lamp is 5w. am using it and its working fine. wonder why it did;nt suit ravi thatha!

Ravi, that bit is a bit more worrying.... if it is working fine when running only on battery without the engine running and is dimming with the engine running....

got to first understand how the electricals work on the ZMA but that doesn't stop me from my weird guessing

may be the power supply switches to the coil when the engine is running? and then may be there's some problem with the delivery somewhere??? Did you get your battery tested?

let us get Sumit's bike this weekend and check with his battery? if he doesn't come let us raid his place

@Satish, I was thinking they are 10W... someone told me...most possible it is Ravi or his Mechanic

Yeah! We will do it. But, it has been this way since loooooooooong back. Nothing happened till now. So, am not worried much. We will surely look in to that next week.

Once the service guys at battery shop checked the voltage and it showed above 12V. He is said battery is okay. But, I douth all the cells are working properly. The next time, I am going to try the TATA Green 9amp battery. I somehow have good faith in that.

Even i face the lights dimming on my zma r..its a minimal dim..i`ve got a phillips crsytal vision head lamp 60/55W bulb and the 5W parking bulbs and a bosch dual horn with a horn relay installed on my zma-r..one query is a k&n filter good for the bike along with the iridium plug..or should i stick to the stock stuff

Stock Rocks - especially on ZMA.

Filter - unless you upjet and get the carb tuned... No use. Lot of pain for very little performance increase. Not suggest IMO.

I had this happen to me on my freshly serviced ~7500km old ZMA. The engine sputtered and died out in the middle of a very busy street. Red-faced, I moved aside, out of the way of a rude RTC bus and some annoying autorickshaws that were coming at me like I wasn't there. I did a cursory check before thumbing the starter and she coughed and sputtered but refused to come to life. ZMAs are annoying beasts when they dont start, I hate the sounds they make while cranking the engine in vain. Next try however, she came to life, I rode on and forgot all about it.

The very next day while on a slow turn the engine quit on me suddenly. It took some clumsy legwork to avoid falling comically on my side. This time I was pissed! Cursing the nameless HH mechanics, I pushed the bike under a tree off the busy intersection that this happened at.

Cursing HH and Honda and questioning their much-acclaimed reliability I set the bike on the main stand. Determined to get to the bottom of the problem, I took off the seat and took out the tool kit and a piece of sandpaper I keep stored there.

Getting out the plug spanner paraphernalia, I reached out for the plug cap, which was hot, wanting to give it a firm pull to remove it. I did a double take when it simply came off in my hand with no resistance. It wasn't placed firmly back in position by the stupid **%#@#@*%^ HH mech-trainee who probably cleaned the plug during service a day or two ago! I pressed it back in place, put it all back under the seat and the bike started like it should, with half a crank.

During routine service, menial tasks are all carried out by these 'trainees'. Cleaning plugs & air filters, changing the oil and setting/oiling the chain. Only specialized jobs like carb-tuning, engine assembly and the like warrant the attention of an experienced mechanic. I'd much rather perform these services at home, but continue to visit the HH showroom once every two months or so for the sake of the warranty.

So yeah. Check if the spark plug is tightened right and check if its connector is firmly in place.

I agree with you. We need to check the bike regularly for all these things and do not rely on those mechanics for everything.

yeah u r right..everytime i give my bike for servicing i always find some or the other panel rubbers or screws missing..i make it a point to check the bike thoroughly at the time of delivery and the mechanic comes running "sorry sir i had misplaced the screws..i`ll fix it up in no time"...one query..does the pulsar 220 chain cover fit on the zma?

Here's something you can do to strengthen your Karizma's front mudguard, which is prone to cracking near the mounting points. I recommend you do this well before you see any cracks on it as a preventative measure.

I discovered two cracks on my mudguard and stuck them up using fevikwik and m-seal.

The mudguard is mounted onto a metal bracket, and the bolts from the front fork are attached to the bracket, holding the mudguard in place. The mudguard is prone to cracking around the points where the front of the mudguard is attached to the bracket.

What you need:
A tube of fevikwik
1 packet of M-seal
No. 10 spanner
Blunt device to press the M-seal in firmly (like an old rounded pen-cap)
A brush to scrub the underside of the mudguard
A pair of plastic/surgical gloves to keep your fingers clean.

Here's what you do (this assumes you have some skill with this sort of stuff):

Removal & Preparation:
1. Take the mudguard off by loosening and then removing the four bolts that hold it in place. Use a a ratchet/ring spanner to prevent slippage.
2. After the bolts are removed, slide the metal bracket that is under the mudguard off.
3. Gently remove the mudguard by rotating it toward the front (slightly tricky).
4. Scrub the muck off the underside with the brush, paying special attention to the area where the cracks (if any) are.
5. Clean the metal bracket as well.
6. Allow them to dry.

You'll notice the mudguard has a few strengthening plastic ridges on the underside. Cracks develop along and around these areas.

Method:
1. Carefully seal the cracks (if any) using fevikwik. DO this on both the insides and the outsides. Press & hold together if necessary for a minute.
Caution:Fevikwik dries in seconds; you could stick your fingers together or make a mess of painted surfaces. Use as little as possible to avoid runs.
2. Once the fevikwik has dried: Wear the gloves, then thoroughly mix the epoxy & hardener of the m-seal paste together. You'll need the entire contents of the ~100gm package, so just mix it all in one go.
3. Apply the m-seal paste so as to fill the depressions between the strengthening ridges. Take care not to exceed the level of the ridge.
4. Caution: Frequently put the metal bracket in place, checking to see if the bolt-holes are aligned and the m-seal does not obstruct the correct seating/alignment of the bracket with the mudguard. Failure to do so will make it impossible to fit the mudguard back on the bike.
5. Press the m-seal in place with the help of the blunt instrument and shape/level it as required.
6. Check once again to ensure the m-seal isn't obstructing the mudguard in any way.
7. Allow it to dry for an hour.

Fitment:
1. Put the metal bracket in place in between the forks.
2. Gently slide the mudguard back into place, rotating it in backwards.
3. Take your time to align the bolt holes on the mudguard, bracket and forks together. Each time one gets aligned, put a bolt in and turn it a few times for it to hold. (this is tricky too and may require time/patience)
4. Follow steps in (3) until all bolts are in place.
5. Tighten the bolts gently. You'll need quite a bit of torque, so slow and steady here.

You're all set!

Sorry I didn't take pictures when I was doing this. My hands got messed up and I didn't want to mess up the camera and then I forgot when I was putting it back together.