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**dineshaugustin** · 08-11-2014, 03:16 PM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by itsmevini123 View Post

No its not available in tubeless, but now the days most of the tube tyre are same as tube less so its upto you to use the tube or fit the tyre directly on your rim, I think your bike rim must be compatible with tubeless tyre if its not one can not use tubeless tyre.

No modification required for 110 section, you can fit it without any hassle and yes to avoid any problem I have bought a bottle of liquid to avoid/minimize tyre to deflate in case of any puncture and poured it in the tyre from air filling hose...

thanks a lot

. my Hunk is TL verson only...i think some guys are using TT as TL....!! but what is that liquid.? we have to fill only during puncture..??

Between, i always thought that 110section needs chain cover removal...since the new Xtreme has no cover...!!

Iam also thinking about CEAT Vertico Rage....but i think it is TT.

**itsmevini123** · 08-11-2014, 05:01 PM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by dineshaugustin View Post

thanks a lot

. my Hunk is TL verson only...i think some guys are using TT as TL....!! but what is that liquid.? we have to fill only during puncture..??

Between, i always thought that 110section needs chain cover removal...since the new Xtreme has no cover...!!

Iam also thinking about CEAT Vertico Rage....but i think it is TT.

My hunk is also TL version, that liquid is actually a kind of a lotion which stick to tyre from inside to prevent the air inflate in case of puncture, yet to check how much it is actually effected and you can fill it any time, I found it on the shop from where I changed my tyre so filled it on the spot. Ceat vertigo & zoom is also very in all kind of tarmac grip, but because I wanted at least 110 section I didn't installed them because they are not available in 110 section...

I think new CBZ is already coming with 110 section rear tyre....

**ATHUL4R** · 08-11-2014, 05:24 PM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Does any1 using 110 back tyre in dual disc cbz Xtreme? Any mod like chain cover cuting needed?

Sent from my GT-S7582 using xBhp Connect mobile app

**dineshaugustin** · 08-11-2014, 05:45 PM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by itsmevini123 View Post

My hunk is also TL version, that liquid is actually a kind of a lotion which stick to tyre from inside to prevent the air inflate in case of puncture, yet to check how much it is actually effected and you can fill it any time, I found it on the shop from where I changed my tyre so filled it on the spot. Ceat vertigo & zoom is also very in all kind of tarmac grip, but because I wanted at least 110 section I didn't installed them because they are not available in 110 section...

I think new CBZ is already coming with 110 section rear tyre....

thanks. i think it will take some time to have more option in 110section.

**itsmevini123** · 08-11-2014, 06:15 PM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by ATHUL4R View Post

Does any1 using 110 back tyre in dual disc cbz Xtreme? Any mod like chain cover cuting needed?

Sent from my GT-S7582 using xBhp Connect mobile app

No it does not require any changed in chain cover to use 110 section tyre and disc does not make any difference for using different size tyre.

Also I have checked my top speed after to install 110 section, which does not looks like it is affected, may be I will face some drop in mileage but that is fine for me.

**ATHUL4R** · 08-11-2014, 06:52 PM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by itsmevini123 View Post

No it does not require any changed in chain cover to use 110 section tyre and disc does not make any difference for using different size tyre.

Also I have checked my top speed after to install 110 section, which does not looks like it is affected, may be I will face some drop in mileage but that is fine for me.

Any improvement in handling? U own xtreme or hunk?
Which tyre u brought model too ?

Sent from my GT-S7582 using xBhp Connect mobile app

**itsmevini123** · 08-12-2014, 11:23 AM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by ATHUL4R View Post

Any improvement in handling? U own xtreme or hunk?
Which tyre u brought model too ?

Sent from my GT-S7582 using xBhp Connect mobile app

I own 2011 Hunk, handling is improved and I can feel the grip while braking and cornering, you have to brake very hard to get the tyre lock.

I think you wanted to know the model of tyre, which is MRF Zapper Q, 110/90.

**ATHUL4R** · 08-12-2014, 12:56 PM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by itsmevini123 View Post

I own 2011 Hunk, handling is improved and I can feel the grip while braking and cornering, you have to brake very hard to get the tyre lock.

I think you wanted to know the model of tyre, which is MRF Zapper Q, 110/90.

Ok.. but the width between chainguard and back disc fixed liner gap diff in hunk and cbz... I saw hunk with 110 tyres. But cbz xtreme with 110 :-(

Sent from my GT-S7582 using xBhp Connect mobile app

**SatSon** · 08-12-2014, 01:45 PM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by itsmevini123 View Post

I own 2011 Hunk, handling is improved and I can feel the grip while braking and cornering, you have to brake very hard to get the tyre lock.

I think you wanted to know the model of tyre, which is MRF Zapper Q, 110/90.

Zapper Q is really good tire, I had the 120/80 size of the same before in my Hunk.
I didn't see any noticeable difference in mileage when i switched back to 100/90.

**vjxm** · 08-12-2014, 01:47 PM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by ashwin.terminator View Post

If you disconnected it, there isn't any problem. But if you unscrewed it and removed it altogether, you will need to recalilbrate it.

I don't remember the procedure, @sibun had posted it somewhere earlier.
Initializing of TPS is done to match the TPS output with CDI so that optimum map is selected for firing.
Unicorn and extreme runs DC CDi and these CDI unlike other CDI has micro chips. Or in other words it is like ECU but slightly less brain that ECU. It has as many has 10 firing modes and varies. So if tps is not initialized optimum performance cannot be obtained.
For initializing the TPS follow the procedure:-
1. Keep ignition switch(key) in off position.
2. Fasten the throttle sensor to the carburettor and connect the connector.
3. Remove the pulser coil coupler( there are two coupler coming out of magnet- one is neutral switch coming from front sprocket and other is coming from magnet- open the magnet one), and give 12 V supply from battery(by separate wire from battery positive) positive to blue/yellow wire(blue wire with yellow stripe), which is going to CDI.
4. Put on the ignition and the tachometer will shoe 1000 rpm(do not start the bike only ignition key is on).
5. Give full throttle and tachometer shows 2000 rpm.
6. Close the throttle and tachometer shows 3000 rpm.
7.turn throttle to full and tach shows 7000 rpm.
8. Close the throttle again and tachometer will show 5000 rpm and then will show 7000 rpm immediately.
9. Switch off the ignition and refit the coupler.
10. Complete each operation within 8 seconds.
11. If tachometer shows 10000 reading at any stage repeat the process.

You can thank sibun.

As for my bike, I did carb tuning and tappet adjustment today as I found my bike to act as if it was short on fuel at speeds of around 70 kmph. Will know the result of my changes tomorrow. *fingers crossed*

Special thanks to sibun who helped me through the procedure.

As the bike sounds now, it sounds better than it did before. I'm not sure if that is a placebo effect of it is the real deal.

Either way, bated breath till tomorrow morning!

:P

can u pls send some snaps of these wires .
Is it safe to give 12V DC direct to CDI

**itsmevini123** · 08-12-2014, 01:54 PM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by SatSon View Post

Zapper Q is really good tire, I had the 120/80 size of the same before in my Hunk.
I didn't see any noticeable difference in mileage when i switched back to 100/90.

Because you didn't face drop in mileage when you up sized your tyre

I also thought about mileage so I have checked whether top speed of the bike affected or not, but its the same almost 108 kmph with full throttle at 9K with no efforts on a straight road in normal wind flow condition, so it must not affect the mileage too I guess, because bike don't has to put more effort to carry this tyre...

**dineshaugustin** · 08-12-2014, 02:48 PM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by itsmevini123 View Post

Because you didn't face drop in mileage when you up sized your tyre

I also thought about mileage so I have checked whether top speed of the bike affected or not, but its the same almost 108 kmph with full throttle at 9K with no efforts on a straight road in normal wind flow condition, so it must not affect the mileage too I guess, because bike don't has to put more effort to carry this tyre...

Happy to know this....hope tyre manufacturers soon release the 110, 18" TL version .

**ashwin.terminator** · 08-12-2014, 06:31 PM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by vjxm View Post

can u pls send some snaps of these wires .
Is it safe to give 12V DC direct to CDI

I'm sorry man. But my electrical knowledge is zilch. :/

Brake Upgrade Plans:

Now, I'm tired of the sad braking power my bike is offering. :/ Sometime soon, I'm going to pick up the FZ16's/Pulsar 180's front brake Master Cylinder and the Pulsar 220's Steel Braided Hose Line and get it fixed it to the bike. If that doesn't work, then nothing will! :/

FZ Master Cylinder - 1200
Pulsar 180 Master Cylinder - 1200
Pulsar 220 Steel Brake Lines - 1110

It is most likely to be the FZ Master Cylinder as I have always loved the Yamaha brakes. I looked for the R15 Master Cylinder, but it costs Rs. 4000! :O

Why Pulsar 180's Master Cylinder? Because it has threads for the mirror to be mounted.

What ever I choose, will be getting the lever along with the required Banjo Bolt and the required copper washers as well. Hope his happens quickly!

Bike Now FLIES:

Also, after the tappet adjustment and the carb tune, bike effortlessly touched 103kmph before I have to slow down for traffic. :P The tappets were far too tight. Especially the inlet valve. That said, I seem to have loosened the tappets too much as they make that ringing sound now when the engine is warm.

Also, the FE seems to have increased, currently getting 152km from 300/84.95 liters of Shell Super Petrol. And the bike has not yet hit reserve. I'm saying increased because I spilt a little fuel while removing the tank and also wasted a little fuel while tuning and used to get 43kmpl before.

Bigger Main Jet For Fuelling Needs:

In addition to the changes I've decided to incorporate over the next 2 weeks; I will also be rejetting the bike to a 130 main jet. This is keeping in mind the mail I got from Race Concepts asking me to go 2.5 higher to help for better fuelling to the big bore and the head work. For this, I have decided to get a new Main Jet and then upsize it at a lathe shop around here.

**sibun** · 08-13-2014, 10:23 AM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by ashwin.terminator View Post

I'm sorry man. But my electrical knowledge is zilch. :/

Brake Upgrade Plans:

Now, I'm tired of the sad braking power my bike is offering. :/ Sometime soon, I'm going to pick up the FZ16's/Pulsar 180's front brake Master Cylinder and the Pulsar 220's Steel Braided Hose Line and get it fixed it to the bike. If that doesn't work, then nothing will! :/

FZ Master Cylinder - 1200
Pulsar 180 Master Cylinder - 1200
Pulsar 220 Steel Brake Lines - 1110

It is most likely to be the FZ Master Cylinder as I have always loved the Yamaha brakes. I looked for the R15 Master Cylinder, but it costs Rs. 4000! :O

Why Pulsar 180's Master Cylinder? Because it has threads for the mirror to be mounted.

What ever I choose, will be getting the lever along with the required Banjo Bolt and the required copper washers as well. Hope his happens quickly!

Bike Now FLIES:

Also, after the tappet adjustment and the carb tune, bike effortlessly touched 103kmph before I have to slow down for traffic. :P The tappets were far too tight. Especially the inlet valve. That said, I seem to have loosened the tappets too much as they make that ringing sound now when the engine is warm.

Also, the FE seems to have increased, currently getting 152km from 300/84.95 liters of Shell Super Petrol. And the bike has not yet hit reserve. I'm saying increased because I spilt a little fuel while removing the tank and also wasted a little fuel while tuning and used to get 43kmpl before.

Bigger Main Jet For Fuelling Needs:

In addition to the changes I've decided to incorporate over the next 2 weeks; I will also be rejetting the bike to a 130 main jet. This is keeping in mind the mail I got from Race Concepts asking me to go 2.5 higher to help for better fuelling to the big bore and the head work. For this, I have decided to get a new Main Jet and then upsize it at a lathe shop around here.

For the master cylinder i would suggest you to go for Karizma, Nissin master cylinder. The best that i have seen when modulating the brake pressure. I do not know why but when all are complaining of the extreme brakes, i feel my brakes are very sharp and have amazing bite as i get super control on braking as i intentionally lock the wheel and then release slightly and then again lock when i am in mood of showing up. What i have observed is that braking is good in DOT 4 oil and DOT 3 oil reduces braking performance by lot. Also always use OE pads as other branded pads loose bite over period of time.

As for the tappets a tight tappets will severely restrict performance and i have felt it more in extreme than in any other bike. May be the profile and lift of cam is the reason as tight tappets changes the time of overlap and not to mention causes loss in compression.

Ya go for bigger main jet. Already extreme/hunk has the largest main jet at 128 mm, but look at new Karizma parts catalogue, they might be running bigger main jet. Otherwise try to find 130 main jet on foreign shipping companies rather than drilling it in lathe and botching the fuel setting.
[MENTION=64560]vjxm[/MENTION] - Bro if you have not removed your TPS from carburettor then no need of resetting. But for resetting if you want then you can follow the procedure that i have mentioned. For knowing the pulsar coil wire, remove the magnet coupler and check the blue wire with white stripe on it which goes to cdi. The color is universal in all bikes. Now give 12V direct supply to the pulsar wire going into the CDI and not into magnet.

It is absolutely safe to use 12V as pulsar coil works at much more voltage.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Originally posted by ashwin.terminator View Post

I'm sorry man. But my electrical knowledge is zilch. :/

Brake Upgrade Plans:

Now, I'm tired of the sad braking power my bike is offering. :/ Sometime soon, I'm going to pick up the FZ16's/Pulsar 180's front brake Master Cylinder and the Pulsar 220's Steel Braided Hose Line and get it fixed it to the bike. If that doesn't work, then nothing will! :/

FZ Master Cylinder - 1200
Pulsar 180 Master Cylinder - 1200
Pulsar 220 Steel Brake Lines - 1110

It is most likely to be the FZ Master Cylinder as I have always loved the Yamaha brakes. I looked for the R15 Master Cylinder, but it costs Rs. 4000! :O

Why Pulsar 180's Master Cylinder? Because it has threads for the mirror to be mounted.

What ever I choose, will be getting the lever along with the required Banjo Bolt and the required copper washers as well. Hope his happens quickly!

Bike Now FLIES:

Also, after the tappet adjustment and the carb tune, bike effortlessly touched 103kmph before I have to slow down for traffic. :P The tappets were far too tight. Especially the inlet valve. That said, I seem to have loosened the tappets too much as they make that ringing sound now when the engine is warm.

Also, the FE seems to have increased, currently getting 152km from 300/84.95 liters of Shell Super Petrol. And the bike has not yet hit reserve. I'm saying increased because I spilt a little fuel while removing the tank and also wasted a little fuel while tuning and used to get 43kmpl before.

Bigger Main Jet For Fuelling Needs:

In addition to the changes I've decided to incorporate over the next 2 weeks; I will also be rejetting the bike to a 130 main jet. This is keeping in mind the mail I got from Race Concepts asking me to go 2.5 higher to help for better fuelling to the big bore and the head work. For this, I have decided to get a new Main Jet and then upsize it at a lathe shop around here.

For the master cylinder i would suggest you to go for Karizma, Nissin master cylinder. The best that i have seen when modulating the brake pressure. I do not know why but when all are complaining of the extreme brakes, i feel my brakes are very sharp and have amazing bite as i get super control on braking as i intentionally lock the wheel and then release slightly and then again lock when i am in mood of showing up. What i have observed is that braking is good in DOT 4 oil and DOT 3 oil reduces braking performance by lot. Also always use OE pads as other branded pads loose bite over period of time.

As for the tappets a tight tappets will severely restrict performance and i have felt it more in extreme than in any other bike. May be the profile and lift of cam is the reason as tight tappets changes the time of overlap and not to mention causes loss in compression.

Ya go for bigger main jet. Already extreme/hunk has the largest main jet at 128 mm, but look at new Karizma parts catalogue, they might be running bigger main jet. Otherwise try to find 130 main jet on foreign shipping companies rather than drilling it in lathe and botching the fuel setting.
[MENTION=64560]vjxm[/MENTION] - Bro if you have not removed your TPS from carburettor then no need of resetting. But for resetting if you want then you can follow the procedure that i have mentioned. For knowing the pulsar coil wire, remove the magnet coupler and check the blue wire with white stripe on it which goes to cdi. The color is universal in all bikes. Now give 12V direct supply to the pulsar wire going into the CDI and not into magnet.

It is absolutely safe to use 12V as pulsar coil works at much more voltage.

**ashwin.terminator** · 08-13-2014, 10:51 AM

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Originally posted by sibun View Post

For the master cylinder i would suggest you to go for Karizma, Nissin master cylinder. The best that i have seen when modulating the brake pressure. I do not know why but when all are complaining of the extreme brakes, i feel my brakes are very sharp and have amazing bite as i get super control on braking as i intentionally lock the wheel and then release slightly and then again lock when i am in mood of showing up. What i have observed is that braking is good in DOT 4 oil and DOT 3 oil reduces braking performance by lot. Also always use OE pads as other branded pads loose bite over period of time.

MY earlier tenant had a ZMR, the braking quality was pathetic to say the least! :/ But I am yet to encounter a Yamaha that feels the same. That being said, I do believe that Yamaha has the best braking in the business.

Ya go for bigger main jet. Already extreme/hunk has the largest main jet at 128 mm, but look at new Karizma parts catalogue, they might be running bigger main jet. Otherwise try to find 130 main jet on foreign shipping companies rather than drilling it in lathe and botching the fuel setting.

@sibun, would you please have a look at this?

#130 PE MAIN JET KEIHIN spec 4mm aftermarket for PB CVK OKO KOSO Carburetor JOG BWS GY6 DIO GTR all scooter/motorcycle-in Carburetor from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com

Though I strongly remember the Main Jet looking like this:

Genuine Keihin jets 1001-806 - Jets R Us

https://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/jets_keihin_1001-806_main.html

Will it work for the Hunk?

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