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Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
IMO, if you have the cash to buy a new cylinder kit and other things with it, go for it and save yourself from headache of various issues arising after re-boring if not done properly.Originally posted by arunsankar View PostThe real beauty lies in throttle's twist!!
Headlight can be replaced, Head cannot be. Wear a helmet.
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
After a lot of thought and going against my initial promise to not make any mechanical changes to the bike, I finally got a serious mod done to my FZ. The stock bike in itself is a very able touring machine considering its stability and excellent riding position. However, it just wouldn't allow for stressfree cruising beyond 85-88kmph and if you tried otherwise and pushed it past 90 for a sustained period, the engine would pull uncomfortably and the fuel consumption would enter a freefall and drop below 30kmpl.
So I researched the hallowed forums of Xbhp and discussed the issue with some veteran bikers. Re-boring \ changing pistons was out of the question and will never be done on my bike as its too big a risk and too much hassle also. So the only other options left were:
1. Installation of a reputed FFE and thereby boosting the entire Rev band. This would guarantee extra power and the bike would become more rev happy due to breathing better. Downsides being a reduce fuel economy and a possibly reduced engine life. I may be wrong here and fellow reader should correct me on this
2. Taller gearing - no change in power but a extremely noticeable change in how it is delivered. The FZ has a torquey motor with very good initial acceleration and mid range but runs out of steam completely at higher rpms. This also results in an extremely average top end of around 110. What frustrated even more was seeing a light weight stock Unicorn Dazzler which accompanied me on a recent tour consistently hitting 125kmph \ cruising at 90+ thereby leaving my FZ far behind 😠😥
So after some brain storming, I decided to change the gearing on my bike. This was achieved by simply changing the stock 14t sprocket to a 15t one from the Dazzler itself (! Dayuum!! 😄
. My trusted mechanic carried out the change recommended that the 'oil seal' be changed too. I happily agreed. Total cost came to INR 500. After receiving the bike first thing I noted was a small drop in acceleration, although this was expected as stated in many threads here. What I noted next was the revving pattern of the engine.. The bike crossed 70kmph in 3rd gear before reaching 8000rpm!! I did not push any more and waited for the weeked when I'd hit the NH2 in full riding gear.
Cont......
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Well, looks like my front brake has made it's mind not to give me good feedback.
I had to bleed the brakes and opened the brake fluid chamber. To my utter dismay, I found that the whole chamber had sludge deposits at the bottom. The sludge was red in color and looks like it came from DOT 3 brake oil. Tried my best to clean the whole chamber, but wasn't that successful. Filled it with DOT 4 and bled the brakes. But, as I have faced issues earlier, front brake isn't giving great feedback despite bleeding it.
Not sure how did sludge form in it :banghead: Is there anyway I can clean it properly or it is ok to use it this way?The real beauty lies in throttle's twist!!
Headlight can be replaced, Head cannot be. Wear a helmet.
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Continued.....
I finally hit the highway today morning and tested out the behavioural changes in the engine. Yes, the acceleration has moderately reduced but I couldn't care less and its still very healthy for safe overtaking within city limits or on the highway. But the engine!! Oh boy!! Now I hate revving the engine hard and stop the moment it starts to wail instead of sing. But today I tested it to its limits. 20kmph in 1st gear (redline), 52kmph in 2nd gear (redline), 73kmph in 3rd gear (8000rpm), 104kmph in 4th gear (8000rpm) and finally 118kmph in 5th gear (8000 rpm again). Strong crosswinds impeded progress and the bike would have crossed 120kmph in ideal conditions.
After that one mad run, the remaining 40kms to our weekend joint, Azad Hind Dhaba, was completed at a constant 95-100kmph with the rpm clock never crossing 7000rpm. The engine sounded far more relaxed and the fuel economy in my estimate was easily in the region of 40kmpl. I actually find it quite insane that a small mod like a front sprocket change can have such a big impact on the bike's behaviour. Of course, I already have a iridium plug, split firing cable and a K&N (Cbr 250 version) installed and this may have aided the process. The tyres also had nitrogen filled.
Searching for a good wind screen and my FZ-T(ouring) would be complete!! 😁😁😁 SUPER HAPPY!!
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Check for damaged master cylinder kit. Me faced similar situation where my brake oil was getting dirty each month.Originally posted by devils_friend View PostWell, looks like my front brake has made it's mind not to give me good feedback.
I had to bleed the brakes and opened the brake fluid chamber. To my utter dismay, I found that the whole chamber had sludge deposits at the bottom. The sludge was red in color and looks like it came from DOT 3 brake oil. Tried my best to clean the whole chamber, but wasn't that successful. Filled it with DOT 4 and bled the brakes. But, as I have faced issues earlier, front brake isn't giving great feedback despite bleeding it.
Not sure how did sludge form in it :banghead: Is there anyway I can clean it properly or it is ok to use it this way?
RULE The Road, But First Wear The CROWNOff the BOTTLE & On the THROTTLE
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Master cylinder kit was replaced when I had faced issues with front brake actuating itself automatically.Originally posted by Jith_in View PostCheck for damaged master cylinder kit. Me faced similar situation where my brake oil was getting dirty each month.
RULE The Road, But First Wear The CROWN
DOT 3 leaves deposits in the chamber??The real beauty lies in throttle's twist!!
Headlight can be replaced, Head cannot be. Wear a helmet.
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Deposits usually occur due to moisture content. If it is so then use a syringe to suck all the oil out and then clean it throughly. Then top up with oil and press the brake lever continuously without closing the cap for getting out the air bubbles.Originally posted by devils_friend View PostMaster cylinder kit was replaced when I had faced issues with front brake actuating itself automatically.
DOT 3 leaves deposits in the chamber??
RULE The Road, But First Wear The CROWNOff the BOTTLE & On the THROTTLE
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Where do u live bro? U tried a great thing on FZ. Even m planning for some mods on my Fazer, but still not decided yet.
Hope I will get some nice ideas. Currently all are stock in my bike except rear tyre. I replaced rear tyre with Michelin imported.
Sent from my A210 using xBhp Connect mobile appSushant Ranjane.
" Born For LIVE... LIVE For RIDE...."
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Originally posted by Sushant Ranjane View PostWhere do u live bro? U tried a great thing on FZ. Even m planning for some mods on my Fazer, but still not decided yet.
Hope I will get some nice ideas. Currently all are stock in my bike except rear tyre. I replaced rear tyre with Michelin imported.
Sent from my A210 using xBhp Connect mobile app
Hey Sushant! I guess that post was meant for me? 😁 I live in Calcutta. Will gladly share my limited knowledge on motorbikes and mods!
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
So, you mean to say that, I have to press the brake lever untill the air bubbles stop popping out in fluid chamber?Originally posted by Jith_in View PostDeposits usually occur due to moisture content. If it is so then use a syringe to suck all the oil out and then clean it throughly. Then top up with oil and press the brake lever continuously without closing the cap for getting out the air bubbles.
RULE The Road, But First Wear The CROWNThe real beauty lies in throttle's twist!!
Headlight can be replaced, Head cannot be. Wear a helmet.
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