Oh ok. I didnt realize you had this very same issue before. So you could start your bike by pushing it and the prob was not in the battery? How did did that get resolved?

well actually an attempt to resolve it wasn't successfull , tried the battery charging , worked for a bit , then it became progressively worse till it shutdown completely ... then the SVC checked it and "fixed it" , well now that fix has lasted about 3 months ... a local mech was the one who told me about the relay being the culprit for the entire thing ...

IS IT OK to use Semieynthetic oil in mya Fazer (YAMAHA LUBE 15-50W ) to use before 1500 kms of run.. I had asked d SVC to put this lube on my 2nd service (1400Kms)
I hav heard tat there r some issues with this Yamaha 15-50 W and is not recommended for FZ/Fazer.

yeah the grade recommended for FZ and Fazer is 15w40 and it is better to switch to SS or FS only after around 4-5k km....

IS It gonna effect d bike ... My next service is in february ...
should i change to mineral immediately or GO ON (manage with SS) till february

It would not effect your bike , it would effect YOU , as in cold starts ... But if your riding style is on the more aggressive side then it's fine , because the oil would provide better protection at the higher RPM's ... If you have a moderate riding style , run this oil out , it's okay to do that and then at your next change put in the reco'ed grade ...

just curious. what quality of petrol do you all use ? any high octane ones or the ordinary unleaded ones ?

I've used the ordinary unleaded one only so far. Tried IOC, BP and HP ones. tried from different bunks. for some unknown reason i got better figures from IOC. Are BP and HP that bad ? Or are all HP and BP bunks un-reliable ?

BTW, read somewhere that 91 octane is not recommended until 3000km. can anyone throw some light on this ?

I guess U are very true.... Its giving a lot of trouble starting in the cold and the engine hiccups at early mornings and nights when the temp is cold....

Another thing I wanted to know is tat... lately the gear shift is not smooth... while shifting there is a Double clik like thing... not single-smooth-gear shift... Wat could be the possible reason and Solution to it...

2 questions:

1 - If the tyre profile has changed from /60 to /70, would the optimum / recommended tyre pressure change? If yes, to what value?

2 - I specifically remember that in case the bike is slotted in some gear, the self start refuses to crank. Its the same as the key of the bike switched to on. In recent times, I have somehow gone into the habit of slotting the bike in 1st gear coz of the slanted office parking, and today, the engine cranked while in 1st gear and jerk forward. Happened twice. The first time I was on the bike so I was able to handle it. The second time, I was half mounted (I swung my leg over and before I placed my ass on the seat, I cranked). It turned out the 1st gear was slotted. Bike jerked ahead, and fell on my left leg (new crash guard is really shitty - just saves the engine's platics - not the legs). How do I solve this problem and get it to not crank when circuit is incomplete (says in the manual somewhere that for the starter circuit to crank, N should be engaged and kill switch should be on ON) ?

upshift or downshift ??? If it is downshifts , then this is a common problem , that has been reduced to a negligible level by the new torsion spring and push lever ... If it is happening even on the upshifts , then I am not sure as I haven't had a problem with upshifts ...

1) I have wondered about this very same question ...I guess the reco'ed pressure would be mentioned on the tyre itself right ???

2) The bike should start in gear without any hassle as long the clutch is engaged right ? I do have slanted parking in college and leave my bike in 1st gear ... start it with the clutch engaged ... shouldn't be a problem

@elkisir : Isn't our normal unleaded fuel 91octane ??? correct me if i'm wrong , I always thought it was ... .

Anyway I have also found that the HP and BP bunks in an around my area are absolutely grade A rogues ... I used to get an average of around 28 to 30 with speed from BP and normal fuel from HP ... but then I found out HP wasn't giving the right quantity , i was 3 ltrs short on couple of occasions ... , shifted to IOC and getting a constant 43kmpl ... shell was also the same , but now shell is too expensive to maintain ...

Its with the downshifts only... How can I get the NEW Torsion Spring and Push Lever... Bike s in Warranty... Is it claimable........

There were a lot of messages flying around regarding this ... ask your SVC ... See if your bike falls under the batch ... this was a free upgrade offered by yamaha , to fix this very problem ...

hmm... my bad.
when xtra premium was launched it said it was the only 91 octane fuel in india. after the BS III norms came out, all regular unleaded ones have shifted to 91 octane. (never knew )
now xtra-premium, speed and power are also 91 octane but with additives.
speed 93 and speed 97 are higher octane variants.
obviously the mileage would increase with these premium fuels but their premium cost nullify their effect. What i'd like to know is if theres any advantage going in for these premium fuels for our bikes. any difference in performance/smoothness or something?


whoa. bloody arseholes. same everywhere.

Bumping my thread

Hi,
Is there no master link for the chain on Fazer/FZ?
I want to remove the chain and clean it...Help me

Also the bike is emitting smoke at high revs and the service centre guy said its normal for all the FZs and showed the same with 3 brand new
Fz's. The factory setting of the fuel screw is 4 3/4 turns out, I made it 3 3/4 and now the smoke is vanished. Is it OK to run with this setting?
Thank you

Comments in bold... thanks